Climbs 125
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 240m a.s.l
Faces E

Dan on Rubble Rouser (F6a+) at Foredale © Si Withington

Crag features

*Please note that due to a few climbers ignoring the access agreements at this crag it is currently closed to climbers. Please see the following UKC thread for more details http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=459666 *

Routes mainly in the range of 6a+ - 6c+ but there are also a selection of easier (4 - 5+) routes and a handful of 7a's too. Walls that face all aspects. A great outlook opposite penyghent, with little seepage after light rain. Routes in the region of 14 meters on average, but there are some fanatastic multi pitch routes at grades F6C and F7a.

Approach notes

Currently closed to climbers - see http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=459666

Park at the end of the quarry road in an obvious parking area, just before the sharp left-hand bend and the main farm.

Walk past the farm (no noise please) and up the lane. Midway between the sharp bend and the cottages, branch left (BMC Sign in place) up a grassy ridge to the right of the fence - follow this to the old slate quarry, traverse right to a small gate and enter the quarry.

No dogs, fires or camping allowed.

Access Banned

Access to Foredale quarry was always a sensitive issue with the local farmer and several of the owners of cottages passed on the previously agreed access route. The ever increasing popularity of the quarry brought these issues to a head in 2011 with the farmer withdrawing his permission for climbers to cross his land on the hillside above the farm and adjacent to Foredale Cottages. The farmer, at this time, was not the owner of the quarry itself but in 2014 he acquired full ownership of the land and continues to oppose climbing there.

Most of the upper perimeter of the quarry, except the land on the hillside directly below on the old access route, is mapped as Access Land under the CRoW Act..  Climbers entering the quarry over the access land from above since 2011 have generally reported no challenge. One group were approached by a young farmer (not, apparently, the one who imposed the ban) who told them that climbing was not permitted because of nesting birds and rare plants but after a polite discussion they were allowed to continue climbing.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no restrictions in place for nesting birds or protected flora.

Guidebooks

Please note - As of this week, climbing at Foredale is no longer permitted. Unfortunately a few selfish people have spoilt it for the rest of us The landowner was fed up due to several reasons People taking dogs to the crag despite several notices requesting no dogs Litter being dropped around the area of the crag Damage to walls especially in the last couple of weeks
Conan - 20/May/11
Chossy, dangerous - not worth the visit.
nightmonkeyuk - 26/Apr/11
this will help u find it . take b6479 north from settle go through stainforth about 2,2km from stainforth on a sharp bend turn left turn right just after pub on right . follow road along and park where signs indicate. walk up and bear to the right hand size of the quarry that is facing you. foredale is around the corner ,
philb - 21/Aug/10
Please ensure that everybody sticks to the BMC Access notes for this quarry to avoid further conflicts with the farmer - no dogs, fires or camping.
CasWebb - 24/Jun/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Warm Up Walls
2 Simple Simon 3+ * 4
3 Broadsword Calling 5c 67
4 Danny Boy
-
6a 48
5 Schloss Adler
-
5a 19
6 Fore Play
-
4a * 73
7 Hotel Paradiso 5c 1
  Africa Flake Area
9 A Taste of Honey 6a * 17
10 A Touch of Class 6b * 16
11 The Sting 6c 16
12 The Entertainer 6a ** 45
13 Flake of Good Hope
-
5c * 64
14 Look Back in Anger
-
6a * 44
15 Anger Management 5a * 69
16 Riches and Salvation 6c * 14
17 Poverty and Damnation 6a+ * 2
  Central Slabs
19 Jolly Roger 4a * 2
20 Skulduggery
-
4a * 47
21 Social Realism
-
6a ** 54
22 The Wandering Warthog
-
5c *** 109
23 Warthog Direct 6a+ ** 8
24 The Zebra 6a+ * 26
25 White Rhino 6a ** 22
26 Animal Magic 6b+ ** 15
27 On Safari 6b+ * 11
28 Town Hall Steps
-
6a ** 30
29 Outward Bound
-
6b 5
  Black Slab
31 The Ace of Spades 6a+ ** 90
32 Black Jack 6a ** 62
33 Joint Effort 6c ** 35
34 Black Magic
-
6a *** 40
35 Dark Secrets 5c ** 87
  Main Walls
37 Mistaken Identity
-
6b+ * 12
38 Alpine Memories
-
6b+ 65
39 Pic n Mix 6c+ ** 2
40 Black Watch...(My Foot, Jock!) 7a *** 3
41 Shot in the Dark
-
7a *** 23
42 A Bridge Too Far
-
6c+ *** 12
43 Pot Black 6c *** 33
44 Black Spot
-
6b+ ** 30
45 Night Rider 6c ** 8
46 (The Real) Slim Shady
-
6b+ ** 22
  Sector Scorpion
48 The Quarry Master 6b *** 5
49 Ebony and Ivory 6b+ ** 5
50 Dicing With Damocles 6b+ ** 12
51 Scorpion
-
6c+ ** 10
52 Black Adder 6b+ * 16
53 Darker Doings 6b ** 1
54 Black Widow
-
6b * 14
55 Darkness at Noon 6b * 5
  The Amphitheatre
57 Waltzing Matilda 6a+ ** 5
58 You've Been Tango'd 6a * 1
59 Jelly Feet 7a ** 4
60 The Hippy, Hippy Shake 6c+ * 4
61 The Jitterbug 6b 2
62 Twinkletoes 6b+ ** 9
63 Footwork and Fancy Free
-
6c+ ** 6
64 Dress Rehearsal 6c+ * 2
65 Cirith Ungol
-
VS 4b  
  Upper Amphitheatre
67 First Night Nerves 6a+ * 2
68 The Royal Box 6b * 1
69 Centre Stage 6b+ ** 2
70 Command Performance 7a * 2
71 Curtain Call 6b 2
  The Wastelands
73 The Magic Staircase 3 * 22
74 Castor 5c * 15
75 Pollux 5a ** 26
76 Little Star
-
6a * 5
  Hidden Walls
78 Flintstone Wall 6a * 18
79 Barney Ribblesdale
-
6a+ ** 37
80 Strange Days 7a * 2
81 Bedrock
-
6c * 4
82 Fred Foredale
-
6b+ ** 10
83 Resin 8
-
7a *** 25
84 This Blasted Heath
-
6c ** 15
85 Dancing with the Devil
-
6b+ * 12
86 Break on Through (To the Other Side) 6c+ ** 3
87 Riders on the Storm 6c *** 6
88 The End
-
7a ** 4
89 Ethical Nightmare 6c ** 2
90 All Along the Watchtower
-
6c * 6
91 Fun and Games
-
6b ** 10
92 High Jinx
-
6c+ ** 6
93 Winking Crack
-
6b * 2
  The Bay
95 Cactus Jack
-
6a 9
96 Cotton Eyed Joe
-
6a+ 4
97 It's Lifebuoy (but not as you know it) 6b+ * 13
98 Nose Job 6a+ * 4
99 Bomb Bay 6a+ * 9
100 The Upshot is... 6b+ * 17
101 Life's a Beach 6a+ * 26
102 Bay Watch 5c * 49
103 Surfing the Stone 5a * 50
104 Rising Tide 6a * 1
105 Mountain Ear Ring
-
VS 4c  
  The Back o' Beyond Wall
107 Old Fossil Wall
-
6b 11
108 Palaeontology
-
6a+ * 8
109 Rubble Rouser
-
6a+ * 20
110 Play Misty
-
6a+ * 7
111 Back Street Gossip
-
6a * 24
112 Sunny Side Up
-
6a+ ** 42
113 To Helwith It
-
6b+ * 26
114 Lost World
-
6a * 36
115 Go with the Flow
-
6b * 21
116 Eccles Cakewalk
-
6b * 4
117 The End is Nigh
-
6a+ * 4
118 Anniversary Waltz 6a ** 2
  The Quick-Fix Walls
120 Rondo
-
S 4a  
121 Terror Non Firma
-
E1 5b  
122 Keeper's Fold
-
S 4a  
123 Legs Leven
-
VS 4c  
124 Scoop of the Day
-
6a+ * 9
125 One Armed Bandit
-
7a * 1
126 Mugwub
-
6c+ * 6
127 Cracking On Up 6b * 9
128 Get a Grip (On Yourself)
-
6a+ * 10
129 A Bravura Breath of Bravado
-
E1 5c 1
130 A Towering Tribute to Trad
-
HS 4c  
131 Slick Slab
-
S 4b  
132 Fore Candles
-
VD 1
133 Forke Handles
-
MVS 4b  
  The Creature Wall
135 X-Ray Specs
-
6b * 11
136 Poly Styrene's Start
-
7a * 3
137 The Day the World Turned Day-Glo
-
6b+ * 5
138 Creature
-
6c ** 13
139 Blinkin' Rain 7a * 1

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