UKC

Climbs 144
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 20m a.s.l
Faces S

Thomas Ball going for the top jug on 'The Cider Soak', Anstey's Cove © Thomas Ball

Crag features

A quite amazing venue with plentiful routes at all grades, both trad and sport, with single-pitch routes up to 90ft, multi-pitch to 180ft. If you can manage it, Tuppence (8b) is an amazing trip. The rock is generally sound on the bolted sections - some of the trad routes can be loose in places - helmets definitely advisable! Full of hard routes which are brilliant; Postman Pat, Poppy, Chimera are just a few to name.

Be aware that when climbers are on P2 of Sunshine which traverses above Upper Ferocity (or on the Upper Ferocity routes) any rocks dislodged tend to whistle down near the lower path to Ferocity - take care!

Anstey's trad December 2014

Anstey's trad climbs have been looking neglected for some time. Many have recently been restored to a climbable state and are often much better than they look. So now may be a good time to check out the SW's sunniest trad venue.
The following routes have been gardened to some degree, the gear checked/upgraded and given the ok for onsight attempts:
Sev to VS; Little John, The Cope, Epoc, Era, Time Passages, Little Wonder, Gut Bucket
HVS to E1; Small Change, Tiny Tim, Weeble, Pluto, Moonshot, Melange,Groove and Slab, Acheron
E2 to E5; Charlie, Big Bills, Timeless Skies, White Winds, Nebulous Crab, Starless and Bible Black, White Dwarf, Shooting Stars, Lumpy Universe, Sod the Cosmos Sniff the Coke
The logbook descriptions have been updated accordingly.

Approach notes

The DIY car park per guidebook is now OK to use once more - parking signage and cameras have been removed. (As of 2017 the Range now clocks in and out times for for parking through camera's, max stay of 2 hours) Follow your nose to the stinking dog-walkers bin next to the "No Frills" DIY supermarket which marks the path up to the downs. Walk bearing slightly RW across Walls Hill Downs to a retaining fence near where the "No access" signs are. Although these are in place and the fence has recently been repaired access appears to be tolerated.

Cross the fence by the "danger of rockfall" signs and follow the concrete steps which are followed to a path that runs alongside the steep flank of Empire wall (on your left) to the bottom of Mitre buttress. Walk under this to access Ferocity and from there toward the sea to Moonshot / Cocytus areas.

Please be aware that there are some extremely rare limestone-loving trees trying to grow amongst the undergrowth which are tagged and registered.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Parking update 23rd april 2015 The car park is now owned by The Range and they will begin clamping cars staying over two hours next week.
phil456 - 23/Apr/15
Last time we went, the cameras on the garden centre car park were gone. We have parked there several times recently without problems.
JohnS - 28/Oct/09
Alternative parking accross the main road on a side street (turn right out of the carpark and then the next left) . only adds a minute to the approach. Mark Glaister 19/7/2008
Mark Glaister - 19/Jul/08
Note that the car parking seems to be 2 hours only since the DIY centre changed hands. Alternative parking nearby is scarce
midgets of the world unite - 01/Jul/08
That fence has been there for years. Midgets... is right, the rockfall is old, the cafe now gone and climber's access is still via the fence above the Empire wall. No change there. Just be discrete. However, popped down July 25th, parked at the hotel and walked in from Anstey's Cove proper across Redgate Beach. Just as enjoyable a walk and perhaps better than the permanent dog-shit in the alley next to the (now)cheap DIY and garden shop.
Ben Thorne - 17/Aug/05
with respect to access comments above - redgate beach was closed following the rockfall which affected the cafe. The climbing is unaffected and most climbers cross the fence by the closure signs and descend a short, steep slope to the path. To my knowledge, there has been no problems encountered by anyone at this crag.
midgets of the world unite - 13/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Opposite Empire
2 Omelette Wall 6b+ ** 113
3 The King of Ming 7a * 95
4 The Boss of Choss 6b * 120
5 Proper Charlie E3 6a ** 5
6 Charlie E3 5c * 21
7 One Way Street E1 5b 6
8 Small Change E2 5c ** 25
9 Big Bills E2 5c 4
10 Little John HS 19
  Empire Wall
12 Big Jim
-
E1 5b 12
13 Tiny Tim
-
HVS 5a * 47
14 Timeless Skies E2 5c 20
15 White Winds E3 6a 7
16 Sirens of Titan E4 6a 1
17 Crook Bruce E4 6a * 5
18 Avant-garde
-
E5 6b * 3
19 Heathen Man 7b ** 57
20 Heathen Man (Left Hand Finish) 7b * 11
21 Rise 'n' Shine 7b+ * 2
22 Rise 'n' Shine (Uzi Start)
-
7c ** 1
23 Uzi in My Pocket
-
7b+ ** 12
24 Empire of the Sun 7b+ *** 414
25 Empire Direct
-
7b+ * 65
26 The Shire 8a+ *** 1
27 Triple Crown 8a * 12
28 Leather whip Mick 8a *** 42
29 LWM (Empire Finish) 8a *** 6
30 Kingdom 8a ** 4
31 Not Just Empire 7c *** 53
32 Just Revenge
-
7c+ *** 99
33 Avenged 7c+ *** 66
34 Avenged Direct 8a ** 16
35 Might and Main 6c+ ** 293
36 Machine Gun Funk 7a+ ** 14
37 DTR 7b * 5
38 Helium 7c ** 9
39 Fusion Reactor 7c *** 6
40 Dan Dyson's Wall 8a+ 4
41 Dan Dyson's Leather whip 8a+ ** 2
  Mitre Buttress
43 Mitre Direct
-
E4 6a * 11
44 The Mitre E3 6b *** 33
45 Imperial 8a ** 1
46 How the Mighty Fall 7a+ ** 124
47 Waffle Supremacy
-
7b+ * 11
48 The Mightier
-
7c+ ** 20
49 The Cope S 8
  Mitre Wall Bouldering
51 Crook Bruce to Might and Main Traverse
-
f6A+ 5
52 Might and Main to Crook Bruce Traverse f6A ** 24
Climb name Grade
53 Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (low version)
-
f7A ** 4
54 Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (high version)
-
f6B * 18
55 Might and Main to Crook Bruce Traverse (There and Back)
-
6b ** 3
56 The Mightiest to Crook Bruce Traverse
-
6b+ ** 3
57 The Mighiest to Crook Bruce Traverse (There and Back)
-
6c+ ** 2
58 The Mighiest to Crook Bruce Traverse II (There and Back) 7a+ 2
59 Left of Baggins
-
f7B ** 1
60 Baggins f7A+ ** 2
61 Baggins Footless
-
f7C+ * 1
62 Baggins II f7A * 2
63 Pinch/Sloper Problem f7C ** 1
64 Pinch/Sloper Footless
-
f8A  
65 Problem 1 f8A 1
66 The Mitre Wall Traverse
-
8a * 2
  End of an Era Cove
68 Time Bandits
-
6c+ 59
69 Bandit's End 6b 21
70 End of an Era
-
6a 200
71 Epoc VS 4b 12
72 Era VS 4c * 22
73 Eve HVS 5a * 4
74 Time Passages HVS 5a 24
  Upper Ferocity
76 The Creaming Dream
-
7a+ * 1
77 Peak 8b
-
7a+ * 1
78 Cry Creamdom
-
6c * 6
79 Tasty Snappers
-
E2 5c  
  Ferocity Wall
81 Nowt ta do with me 7a 48
82 Flo Rida 7a ** 18
83 Devonshire Cream E5 6a *** 95
84 Devonshire Cream - Flo Rida E6 6a *** 2
85 Sole Fusion E5 6a * 19
86 Cream Topping
-
E6 6a * 7
87 La Crème 7c+ *** 31
88 La Creme Direct 8a 10
89 Iridescence 8c ** 1
90 Postman Pat 8b *** 6
91 Postman Pat (Original Start) 8b *** 1
92 Patpence 8a+ ** 11
93 Patpence (Orignal Start)
-
8a+ ** 1
94 Patpence Extension 8b *** 2
95 Patpence Extension (Original Start)
-
8b *** 1
96 Patpence Ha'penny 8b ** 7
97 Patpence Ha'penny (Orignal Start) 8b *** 2
98 Cyberdog 8b *** 5
99 Tuppence 8b *** 19
100 Tuppence Ha'penny 8b+ * 7
101 Tuppence Extension 8b+ ** 1
102 Chimera 8b+ *** 4
103 Chimera Extension 8c *** 3
104 Chimera Enduro 8c ***  
Climb name Grade
105 A Fisherman's Tale 8b *** 7
106 Poppy
-
8b+ *** 11
107 Brian 8c+ *** 3
108 Ali Bomaye 8c *** 1
109 The Cider Soak 8a *** 122
110 The Lynch 7b+ *** 108
111 Pet Cemetery
-
8a+ ** 10
112 Rawhide 7a 21
  Saint Gregory Area
114 Mars HS 4a 1
115 Sunshine 6a * 159
116 Saint Gregory The Wonder Worker HS 4b * 77
117 St Mongo HVS 5a 2
118 Hell's Teeth HVS 5a 4
  Moonshot Wall
120 Weeble E1 5a 4
121 Nebulous Crab E3 6b 2
122 Starless & Bible Black E4 6a 1
123 White Dwarf E4 6b 1
124 Shooting Stars E4 6a 9
125 The Lumpy Universe E3 5c ** 24
126 Pluto E1 5c * 7
127 Moonshot E1 5b * 29
128 Melange
-
E1 5b 3
129 Sod the Cosmos, Sniff the Coke E2 5b 3
130 Little Wonder VD 3
  Cocytus Wall
132 Cocytus Traverse f6C+ *** 5
133 Blue Sky 5c * 85
134 St Jude
-
S 4a 5
135 Aornis
-
S 8
136 Dumb Blonde
-
E3 6a 7
137 American Express 7a+ ** 108
138 Torbay or Not Torbay
-
7b * 27
139 Cocytus E3 6a *** 238
140 Cocytus, More Steam Connection
-
7a ** 61
141 More Steam, Bigger Women 7b *** 78
142 Blonde Bombshell E5 6b ** 5
143 Blazing Apostles
-
7b+ * 3
144 The Shroud
-
E5 6b  
145 Boy George 8a ** 11
146 Groove & Slab E1 5b 11
147 Acheron HVS 5a * 41
148 Lethe VS 4c 6
149 Deadly Assassin E3 6a  
150 Agent Orange
-
E3 6a 1
151 Gut Bucket S 2
152 Walking on Sunshine
-
VS  
  Sport Routes in Original State
154 Empire of the Sun (Original) E6 6b *** 2
155 Just Revenge
-
E8 6b/c *** 1

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