Climbs 142
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 20m a.s.l
Faces S

Thomas Ball going for the top jug on 'The Cider Soak', Anstey's Cove © Thomas Ball

Crag features

A quite amazing venue with plentiful routes at all grades, both trad and sport, with single-pitch routes up to 90ft, multi-pitch to 180ft. If you can manage it, Tuppence (8b) is an amazing trip. The rock is generally sound on the bolted sections - some of the trad routes can be loose in places - helmets definitely advisable! Full of hard routes which are brilliant; Postman Pat, Poppy, Chimera are just a few to name.

Be aware that when climbers are on P2 of Sunshine which traverses above Upper Ferocity (or on the Upper Ferocity routes) any rocks dislodged tend to whistle down near the lower path to Ferocity - take care!

Anstey's trad December 2014

Anstey's trad climbs have been looking neglected for some time. Many have recently been restored to a climbable state and are often much better than they look. So now may be a good time to check out the SW's sunniest trad venue.
The following routes have been gardened to some degree, the gear checked/upgraded and given the ok for onsight attempts:
Sev to VS; Little John, The Cope, Epoc, Era, Time Passages, Little Wonder, Gut Bucket
HVS to E1; Small Change, Tiny Tim, Weeble, Pluto, Moonshot, Melange,Groove and Slab, Acheron
E2 to E5; Charlie, Big Bills, Timeless Skies, White Winds, Nebulous Crab, Starless and Bible Black, White Dwarf, Shooting Stars, Lumpy Universe, Sod the Cosmos Sniff the Coke
The logbook descriptions have been updated accordingly.

Approach notes

The DIY car park per guidebook is now OK to use once more - parking signage and cameras have been removed. (As of 2017 the Range now clocks in and out times for for parking through camera's, max stay of 2 hours) Follow your nose to the stinking dog-walkers bin next to the "No Frills" DIY supermarket which marks the path up to the downs. Walk bearing slightly RW across Walls Hill Downs to a retaining fence near where the "No access" signs are. Although these are in place and the fence has recently been repaired access appears to be tolerated.

Cross the fence by the "danger of rockfall" signs and follow the concrete steps which are followed to a path that runs alongside the steep flank of Empire wall (on your left) to the bottom of Mitre buttress. Walk under this to access Ferocity and from there toward the sea to Moonshot / Cocytus areas.

Please be aware that there are some extremely rare limestone-loving trees trying to grow amongst the undergrowth which are tagged and registered.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Parking update 23rd april 2015 The car park is now owned by The Range and they will begin clamping cars staying over two hours next week.
phil456 - 23/Apr/15
Last time we went, the cameras on the garden centre car park were gone. We have parked there several times recently without problems.
JohnS - 28/Oct/09
Alternative parking accross the main road on a side street (turn right out of the carpark and then the next left) . only adds a minute to the approach. Mark Glaister 19/7/2008
Mark Glaister - 19/Jul/08
Note that the car parking seems to be 2 hours only since the DIY centre changed hands. Alternative parking nearby is scarce
midgets of the world unite - 01/Jul/08
That fence has been there for years. Midgets... is right, the rockfall is old, the cafe now gone and climber's access is still via the fence above the Empire wall. No change there. Just be discrete. However, popped down July 25th, parked at the hotel and walked in from Anstey's Cove proper across Redgate Beach. Just as enjoyable a walk and perhaps better than the permanent dog-shit in the alley next to the (now)cheap DIY and garden shop.
Ben Thorne - 17/Aug/05
with respect to access comments above - redgate beach was closed following the rockfall which affected the cafe. The climbing is unaffected and most climbers cross the fence by the closure signs and descend a short, steep slope to the path. To my knowledge, there has been no problems encountered by anyone at this crag.
midgets of the world unite - 13/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Opposite Empire 
2Proper CharlieE3 6a **6
3CharlieE3 5c *21
4One Way StreetE1 5b 6
5Small ChangeE2 5c **25
6Big BillsE2 5c 5
7Little JohnHS 15
 Empire Wall 
9Big Jim
E1 5b 12
10Tiny Tim
HVS 5a *48
11Timeless SkiesE2 5c 21
12White WindsE3 6a 7
13Sirens of TitanE4 6a 1
14Crook BruceE4 6a *5
E5 6b *2
16Heathen Man7b **50
17Heathen Man (Left Hand Finish)7b *8
18Rise 'n' Shine7b+ *2
19Rise 'n' Shine (Uzi Start)
7c **1
20Uzi in My Pocket
7b+ **9
21Empire of the Sun7b+ ***443
22Empire Direct
7b+ *57
23The Shire8a+ ***1
24Triple Crown8a *10
25Leather whip Mick8a ***42
26LWM (Empire Finish)8a ***3
27Kingdom8a **4
28Not Just Empire7c ***47
29Just Revenge
7c+ ***116
30Avenged7c+ ***70
31Avenged Direct8a **11
32Might and Main6c+ **277
33Machine Gun Funk7a+ **7
34DTR7b *1
35Helium7c **9
36Fusion Reactor7c ***2
 Mitre Buttress 
38Mitre Direct
E4 6a *11
39The MitreE3 6b ***34
40Imperial8a **1
41How the Mighty Fall7a+ **122
42Waffle Supremacy
7b+ *10
43The Mightier
7c+ **18
44The Mightiest
7a+ 3
45The CopeS 8
 Mitre Wall Bouldering 
47Crook Bruce to Might and Main Traverse
f6A+ 4
48Might and Main to Crook Bruce Traversef6A **23
49Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (low version)
f7A **4
50Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (high version)
f6B *17
51Might and Main to Crook Bruce Traverse (There and Back)
6b **2
52The Mightiest to Crook Bruce Traverse
6b+ **2
53The Mighiest to Crook Bruce Traverse (There and Back)
6c+ **1
54The Mighiest to Crook Bruce Traverse II (There and Back)7a+ 1
55Left of Baggins
f7B **1
56Bagginsf7A+ **2
57Baggins Footless
f7C+ *1
58Baggins IIf7A *2
59Pinch/Sloper Problemf7C **1
60Pinch/Sloper Footless
61Problem 1f8A 1
62The Mitre Wall Traverse
8a *2
 End of an Era Cove 
64Time Bandits
6c+ 57
65Bandit's End6b 22
66End of an Era
6a 186
67EpocVS 4b 12
68EraVS 4c *24
69EveHVS 5a *4
70Time PassagesHVS 5a 26
 Upper Ferocity 
72The Creaming Dream
7a+ *1
73Peak 8b
7a+ *1
74Cry Creamdom
6c *6
75Tasty Snappers
E2 5c  
 Ferocity Wall 
77Nowt ta do with me7a 43
78Flo Rida7a **16
79Devonshire CreamE5 6a ***87
80Devonshire Cream - Flo RidaE6 6a ***2
81Sole FusionE5 6a *17
82Cream Topping
E6 6a *7
83La Crème7c+ ***33
84La Creme Direct8a 7
85Iridescence8c **1
86Postman Pat8b ***5
87Postman Pat (Original Start)8b ***1
88Patpence8a+ **7
89Patpence (Orignal Start)
8a+ **1
90Patpence Extension8b ***1
91Patpence Extension (Original Start)
8b ***1
92Patpence Ha'penny8b **5
93Patpence Ha'penny (Orignal Start)8b ***1
94Cyberdog8b ***5
95Tuppence8b ***34
96Tuppence Ha'penny8b+ *6
97Tuppence Extension8b+ **1
98Chimera8b+ ***2
99Chimera Extension8c ***1
100Chimera Enduro8c *** 
101A Fisherman's Tale8b ***6
8b+ ***14
103Brian8c+ ***1
104The Cider Soak8a ***185
105The Lynch7b+ ***106
106Pet Cemetery
8a+ **8
107Rawhide7a 19
 Saint Gregory Area 
109MarsHS 4a 1
110Sunshine6a *137
111Saint Gregory The Wonder WorkerHS 4b *75
112St MongoHVS 5a 2
113Hell's TeethHVS 5a 4
 Moonshot Wall 
115WeebleE1 5a 4
116Nebulous CrabE3 6b 2
117Starless & Bible BlackE4 6a 1
118White DwarfE4 6b 1
119Shooting StarsE4 6a 9
120The Lumpy UniverseE3 5c **25
121PlutoE1 5c *6
122MoonshotE1 5b *29
E1 5b 3
124Sod the Cosmos, Sniff the CokeE2 5b 3
125Little WonderVD 3
 Cocytus Wall 
127Cocytus Traversef6C+ ***5
128Blue Sky5c *81
129St Jude
S 4a 5
S 8
131Dumb Blonde
E3 6a 7
132American Express7a+ **107
133Torbay or Not Torbay
7b *27
134CocytusE3 6a ***222
135Cocytus, More Steam Connection
7a **63
136More Steam, Bigger Women7b ***79
137Blonde BombshellE5 6b **5
138Blazing Apostles
7b+ *3
139The Shroud
E5 6b  
140Boy George8a **5
141Groove & SlabE1 5b 12
142AcheronHVS 5a *46
143LetheVS 4c 6
144Deadly AssassinE3 6a  
145Agent Orange
E3 6a 1
146Gut BucketS 2
147Walking on Sunshine
 Sport Routes in Original State 
149Empire of the Sun (Original)E6 6b ***2
150Just Revenge
E8 6b/c ***1
151Omelette Wall *6b 55
152The King Of Ming *7a 38
153The Boss of Choss *6b 35
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ellis Butler-Barker