Climbs 25
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 10m a.s.l

F.A. routeing on the back of a ute. pete sawford/paul whitworth E15b © paul whitworth

Crag features

Vegetated left hand wall heightens to right to two large ramped corners with roofs the left of witch gives "routing on the back of the ute E1,5b"

Shelf leads up and right (south) with easy angled slab above to the gear cave with short slabs below.

To the far north of the area is a superb 10m crag awaiting new routes. The next crag south is a large slab littered with easy grade 30m routes. Lower slabs to the sea give harder climbing with some good bouldering in between. The seaward face below the large recessed slab also has several good routes.

Approach notes

No access problems.

Park at end of road follow path along dunes 200m west angle iron stake in cliff top, easy access to south then north leads to gear cave.

Or: Park at end of the road through Papil and follow the path along dunes west. Head west from here. The grassy top to the easy 30m slabs is marked by steel stakes. There is an easy descent to south onto the flat area between the sea slabs, and higher slabs.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Tier
2 Routing on the Back of the Ute E1 5b * 2
3 Stack The Fridge XS 4c 1
  Lower Tier North
5 Wee Nip S 4a 5
6 Tiptoe HVS 5a 3
7 Central Slab E2 5c 3
8 Roofus S 4c 4
9 Crack & Corner M 2
10 Grunt & Grab S 4c 3
11 No Belayer Required VD 5
12 Slab n Tickle D 7
13 Fading Sun VD 4
14 Slide Away S 4a 3
15 Exit Slab VD ** 3
  Lower Tier South
17 Marcel E1 5a * 2
18 Open Book S 4a * 2
19 Simmer Dim E2 5c * 1
20 Pack Horse VS 4c * 4
21 Crackerjack HVS 5a * 3
22 Echo S 2
23 Winterwadder VD * 2

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