UKC

Climbs 268
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces all

Scott Titt Yellow Edge E4 5c St Aldhelm's Head Swanage © scott titt

Crag features

The headland south-west of Worth Matravers provides two rarely visited and contrasting bouldering venues. The quarry perched on top of the headland, close to the coastguard lookout and the 12th century chapel dedicated to St. Aldhelm, the patron saint of boulderers, was quite popular in the '90s and is home to the infamous Dorset 6c. There are a number of entertaining problems across the grades that deserve more attention. The landings are generally flat but, because of underlying scree, a bouldering mat is recommended. The view is great and there is an airy feel to the venue. Some of the sectors in the quarry have upper bands of rock that are shattered and loose. All the problems finish before loose rock is encountered, but this requires a down-climb or a jumo descent.

The wild and sprawling boulderfield of the Undercliff makes the Cuttings Boulderfield seem like Regent's Park. Few people venture here, climbers or otherwise, and it is probably not a place to boulder on your own. However if you are seeking adventure and a sense of remoteness there is little like it in Dorset. The development of the Undercliff was mainly at the hands of Marcus Dymond, often alone and with only one bouldering mat - there's committment for you! West Beach is strictly speaking part of the Undercliff but has a slightly different approach.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply from Pier Bottom (the valley north of St Aldhem's Head) to the east arete of The Yellow Wall and from Buttery Corner (the point at which the undercliff below St. Aldhelm's Head gives way to seacliff) to Slippery Ledge.

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Swanage and Portland (1995)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Yellow Wall
2 Forever Autumn
-
E4 5c  
3 Calamity Jane
-
HVS 4c 2
4 Return of the Native
-
HVS 5a 1
5 Gorgonzola
-
E4 5c  
6 House of Debris
-
E2 5b  
7 Moebius
-
VS 4b 2
8 Fragile Earth E6 6a *  
9 Glowing Bronze E7 6b **  
10 Elm Street
-
E2 5b 2
11 Angel Pavement E2 5a 2
12 The Devil's Highway
-
E4 5b  
13 Mammotholian E2 5b  
14 Riding the Warhead
-
E2 5a  
15 Yellow Edge E4 5c 2
  Main Area
17 Jims Jam S 4a 20
18 Brian's Route
-
S 2
19 Slimline
-
HS 4b 9
20 Battle of the Bulge
-
VS 4b 8
21 Weightwatchers Finish HVS 5b 2
22 Name Please VS 4b 2
23 Internal Exile
-
HVS 5a 3
24 Rescue Corner
-
S 4a 3
25 The Pilotman HVS 5a 2
26 Experiments into Fear VS 4a 3
27 Control Group VS 4c 1
28 Control Group Direct Finish HVS 5b * 3
29 Schrodingers Cat E2 5b * 3
30 Every Whichway... VS 4c 5
31 Spider Ledge HVS 5b 10
32 The Other Gully
-
S 19
33 Pinnacle Gully VD 28
34 Other Times
-
E1 5b 2
35 Other Places E2 5c * 3
36 The Last Corner
-
S 4a * 20
37 Northern Sky
-
VS 4b 2
38 Chasm
-
S 4
39 Seriously Short E2 6a * 10
40 Little Corner
-
S 4a 19
41 One Nut Crack VS 5a * 30
42 Pineapple Edge
-
HVS 5b 8
43 Difficult Descent D 12
44 Claire's Brother VS 4b 7
45 Gardeners' Question Time
-
S 6
46 Shatterbox HS 4a 5
47 Coccyx VS 4c 6
48 Sigmoid Direct HVS 4c 4
49 The Smooth Snake
-
HVS 4c  
50 Cabbage Patch Kids VS 4c * 3
51 Loosestone Crack S 4a 1
52 The Outlaw
-
HVS 5a  
53 Divine Wind
-
HS 1
  West Beach
55 Mandolin f6B+  
56 Scraps from the Table f6A 2
57 Midnight Rambler f5 * 2
58 The Good Life f4+ * 2
59 Utter Rambles f3 * 4
60 Ramble On f3 ** 4
61 Forget Me Not f6B+ * 2
62 Moonscape f5+ * 2
63 Orbital f6A * 2
64 Tenacity f6B *  
65 Mesmer f6A+ * 1
66 Downtime f5+  
67 Tantric Flyer f7A **  
68 Merman f6A * 1
69 One Inch Punch f5+  
70 Small Town Player f4+ 1
71 Blind Faith f6B+ *  
72 K-Man f5+ * 4
73 Express Abstraction f3 ** 4
74 Special K f3 ** 4
75 Agent K f4 * 4
76 Jemimah Jetta f3 ** 4
77 Frapraddle f5+ ** 3
78 A Glimpse of Molly's Garden f5+ * 1
79 Bush Tucker Man f6B+ * 1
  Cliff-top Quarry
81 Cabbage Surfing f6A * 7
82 Crazy Paving f7A+ *  
83 Crazy Paving, Sit-start f7B *  
84 Mike's Wall f7B *** 5
85 Mike's Wall, Sit-start f7B *** 1
86 Pseudo Arête f6A+ * 5
87 Pseudo Arête, Sit-start f6B * 5
88 The Cleft f4+ 6
89 The Drifter f7A *** 3
90 The Drifter, Sit-start f7A+ *** 3
91 The Jam f5+ 5
92 The Jam, Sit-start f6A 1
93 Out of Jam f6A+ * 2
94 The Eldest f4+ 10
Climb name Grade
95 Elder Wand f3 ** 17
96 Elder Wand Right f5+ * 11
97 Elder Scrolls f5+ * 10
98 Elder Crack f5+ 7
99 Groovy f6A 4
100 The Elders f6A * 8
101 Listen to your Elders f5+ * 15
102 Elder and Wiser f6A * 15
103 Thin Flake f4+ * 16
104 Shaky f3 20
105 The Pillar f4 8
106 The Pillar, Sit-start f4+ 5
107 Hanging Crack f5+ 11
108 Hanging Crack, Sit-start f5+ 7
109 The Pocket f6A ** 8
110 The Pocket, Sit-start f6B ** 6
111 The Crimp f6A ** 4
112 The Crimp, Sit-start f6B+ ** 4
113 Dirty Slapper f4+ * 8
114 Dirty Slapper, Sit-start f6A * 3
115 Scree Running f4 12
116 Atari f4+ ** 16
117 Steffi's Arête f5+ * 11
118 Dirt
-
VB 6
119 Fossilised f4+ 16
120 The Crack f5+ 15
121 Steffi's Wall f6A * 15
122 Bridging Is Not Bouldering f4 14
123 The Corner
-
V0 6
124 Strip Teasel f6C+ ** 6
125 Strip Teasel, Sitter f7A ** 6
126 Dorset 6c f7B+ ** 3
127 No Easy Decision f5+ 11
128 Evening Light f5+ 6
129 Steffi's Traverse f7A ** 4
130 Nothing Concrete f6A * 4
131 Ready Mix f6B * 5
132 Reinforced f6B * 7
133 Concrete Jungle f5+ * 9
134 Concrete Mixer f6A * 4
135 Short Side f5+ 10
136 Marooned f6A * 10
137 You've Been Crowbarred f5+ * 11
138 Old Wall Controversy f5 * 14
139 Pension Rights f5+ 18
140 Old Bones f4 * 27
141 Winter Fuel Allowance f4+ * 24
142 Breadline f5+ * 25
143 Codgers Wall f6A 15
144 Old Time f6A * 24
145 Easy Option f4+ * 19
146 Just One More f5+ * 5
147 Thors Hammer V2 ** 2
148 Time For Something New * f5 1
  Undercliff - Place of Nightmares
150 Playing for Pride f6A 1
151 Wedding Night f3 3
152 Toxic Love f3 3
153 The Quarryman's Harlot f6B+ 1
154 Shuddering at Last f4+ 2
155 All Time Low f5+ 1
156 Congenital Instability f6B+ * 1
157 Crushed Ambitions f6A * 2
158 Breaking Ambitions f6A * 1
159 Place of Nightmares f6A+  
160 Terra Unfirma f6A  
161 Breaking Bad f6B+ ** 1
162 Far from Kansas f3 3
  Undercliff - Copelandia Area
164 The Swarm f7A ** 2
165 Room with a View f6B+  
166 Karma Test f6B+ 1
167 Flash in the Pan f6B+ 1
168 Quick Hit f4+ * 7
169 Hit Parade f5+ * 5
170 Copelandia Express f6B *** 3
171 Lair of the White Worm f6A  
172 Breaking Bread f4+ 3
173 Sermon on the Mount f4+  
174 Hillside Strangler f4+ ** 8
175 East Overhang f5+ 1
176 When it Comes to the Crunch f6A * 1
177 Crunchy Nut f5+ * 1
178 Toffee Crisp f6B * 1
  Undercliff - Notley Area
180 Battered and Bruised f6A * 1
181 Hand Grenade f6A * 1
182 Chicken Run f5 * 17
183 Yarp f5+ ** 15
184 Scott's Problem f6A 11
185 Front Door on the Back f6A+ * 19
186 Buxton Swinger f6C+ ** 7
187 Come Up and See Me f6B * 9
188 Make Me Smile f6B ** 8
Climb name Grade
189 The Pink Lady f6B ** 11
190 Straight Outta Cardiff f6A ** 13
191 South of the River f6C 2
192 The Vegan Escape f5+ * 4
193 Cheery Ohs f6A * 5
194 Hula Hoops f5+ 5
195 Polos f5 5
196 Mole Debris f7A ** 1
197 Don Quixote f7B *  
198 Dulcinea f5 ** 11
199 Roflcopter f6B * 8
200 Amazeball f6A+ * 12
201 Flake 'n' Break f6C+ **  
202 Totes f5+ 6
  Undercliff - Devil's Chapel Area
204 Santa Lucia f6B+ ** 2
205 Hades f6B+ * 2
206 Elysium f6B+ * 2
207 Tartarus f6A ** 2
208 Devil's Chapel f5+ * 5
209 Circle Dance f4+ * 4
210 Critical of Mass f5+ * 4
211 Ealdhelm f6A ** 2
212 Heliocentric f5+ * 5
213 I See Darkness f7A *  
  Undercliff - Burning Sugar Area
215 Beware the Rural Cougar f6B+  
216 Buttercup f6A  
217 New Tradition f5+ ** 2
218 No Tradition f6A ** 2
219 Instant Tradition f6B *** 2
220 Burning Sugar f5+ * 6
221 Chert Vajazzle f6B * 5
222 Quarter-life Crisis f6A+ * 5
223 Lost Arrow Traverse f5+ * 3
224 Gap Filler f6A ** 6
225 Viennetta Waltz f6B *** 7
226 Premature Exasperation f6C *** 7
227 Alabama Hotpocket f6C+ *** 6
228 Urban Dictionary f5+ * 7
229 Ving Commander f6B+ * 2
230 Bamboo to a Goose f6C * 1
231 Duck Soup f6C * 1
232 Liposuction Helps f3 * 3
233 Vapid Relief f6A * 3
234 Grand Theft Auto f6C ** 4
235 Ancraophobia f6B *** 6
236 Hairpins and Harpies f6B+ ** 9
237 Aeolian Sky f7A *** 2
238 Happy Couple f6A * 1
239 Chert Bamboozle f7A+ ** 1
240 Bamboo f6B+ *  
241 Ringpiece f4+ * 5
242 Don't Touch the Sides f5+ * 7
243 Coprophobia f5 * 10
244 Bell End f6A 5
245 Two-Face f5 * 11
246 Pentagon Slab f4+ * 11
247 Splash f5 * 2
248 Splish f5+ 1
249 Dazed and Confused f4+ 4
250 The Ace of Spades f5+ * 3
251 Paranoid f4+ * 3
  Undercliff - Dolly Dagger Area
253 Jagged Edge f6A *  
254 Ghost Ship f6C+ *  
255 Echoes in the Mist f6C+ *  
256 Accidental Jedi f6B+ *  
257 Dolly Dagger f7A ** 1
258 No Class? f6C+ ** 1
259 Water Off a Duck's Back f6B+ *  
260 Slippery Slope f5+ *  
261 The Last Temptation f5+ * 1
262 Obsessive Compulsive f5 ** 1
263 Weapons of Mass Compulsion f5+ * 1
264 Latest Addition f5+ *  
265 More Cow f4 * 2
266 Anaconda f6B+ * 1
267 Tarantula f6B * 1
268 Cheetah-ed f4+ * 2
  East Beach
270 Something Witty * V2 2
271 Lactose Free Cream * V4 ** 2
272 Daddy. Push me to the Fish * V7 ** 1
273 Deer Stalker * V2 1
274 Mind Your Bum * V3 1
275 Buttery Biscuit Base * V1 1
276 Butter Side Up * VB 1
277 Butter Knife * V1 1
  Buttery Corner
279 Delicatessen
-
HS 4b  
280 Gold Mother
-
E5 6b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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