Climbs 88
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces E

Mr Dale in 7c face mode. © tomrainbow

Crag features

A very worthwhile venue with a wide variety of climbs and climbing styles.
Its main attraction may now be it's deep water soloing - well developed with plenty of short, safe routes at a good mixture of grades (Fr4+ - 8a). In summer, the quarry rim gets sunshine for much of the day, although the solos are often in the shade.  The DWS is easily combined with a sport climbing trip to Ansteys Cove; check the tide times to optimise the visit. 
The back walls to the quarry offer some excellent slab climbs and a few rather tougher sport climbs in single and multi-pitch routes up to 90m.  The majority of the routes comprise relatively adventurous trad. climbs, many of which are reliant in key locations on in-situ pegs. Some vegetation and the ubiquitous 'LQP exfoliating flake' are likely to be encountered on the less frequented routes.  Hence the trad. routes are probably more suitable for those with plenty of experience.  Refer to notes on particular climbs for latest info. on condition. The leader should carry a nut key for broddling.  The back walls can be very bleak in winter if the wind is from the east, but are quite feasible as a winter climbing venue if mild weather coincides with dry conditions.

Approach notes

From the outskirts of Torquay, follow road signs for Babbacombe (B3199). After passing through the town, head on towards Torquay and look out for a retail car park (currently The Range) on the left. Historically it has often been possible to park in this retail car park, but the status changes regularly; check for any notices. On-street parking is available in the general area as an alternative.
Take the footpath up onto Walls Hill Downs. Head for the pale coloured shelter by the perimeter fence; pass the fence at its left hand end and, for the large majority of the climbs, follow the steep descent path to the quarry floor (the exception is The Odyssey area, which can be approached by abseil from fenceposts set back). Brambles are prevalent at the foot of the back wall crags (Shadow Beast Wall in particular) and can hamper access to the start of some climbs; a bit of pruning by visiting climbers is encouraged (ie. take your secateurs...)
There has been a Spring period climbing restriction for breeding birds on the Grey Tower, Shadow Beast Wall and Odyssey area in recent years. Check the BMC RAD.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Long Traverse (DWS) 4c ** 219
  Quarry Pinnacle
3 Arete D 7
4 Lamia
-
E2 5c 2
5 Supernatural Anaesthetist
-
E4 6a * 1
6 Slipperman
-
E2 6a 1
7 Seaward Edge VS 4c * 3
8 South Seas E1 5b 2
9 Afterglow
-
E1 5a 1
10 Storm Child
-
S 4b 9
11 Ship's Biscuit
-
E2 5b 1
12 Sea Slip
-
S 4a 9
13 Crepes Suzettes
-
HVS 4c * 5
14 Flambe
-
VS 4c 2
  Boulder Choke Zawn
16 Slanting Chimney HVS 4c 2
17 Red Centre
-
6b * 3
18 Once a Swinger 7b ** 12
19 Cave Route S  
20 Corner Climb VS 4c 3
21 Et Tu Brutus
-
7a **  
22 Have a Good Flight
-
7a+ *  
23 Once a Dogger 7b+ S1 ** 39
24 Arapiles, Oh Arapiles (DWS) 7a+ S0 *** 121
  Crystal Zawn
26 The book of laughter 6c S1 6
27 Honour Bright (DWS) 6a+ S1 ** 72
28 Honour Bright Arete 6c S1 ** 27
29 Crystal Pockets (DWS) 5c S2 ** 77
30 Midget Gem 6a+ S3 17
  Outer Pinnacle
32 Blowhole route 4c ** 8
33 Jumping Jack Flash
-
VS 4c 2
34 High & Dry E1 5b 1
  Scorpio Pinnacle
36 Scorpio VS 4c 6
37 Producer (DWS) 5a * 14
38 Rapido XS 6b *  
39 Retro Scare XS 6b 1
  Blow-hole Pinnacle
41 Blue Planet
-
7b+ ** 24
42 Christine 8a ** 2
43 No Time Like Now HVS 4c 2
44 Waiting for Charlie
-
7c *  
45 Losing My Religion
-
7b+ ***  
46 Waterline
-
6c+ 1
47 John & Tom's Excellent Adventure 6a+ * 4
  The Ridge
49 The Ridge
-
VD 8
50 Grey Tower
-
HS 4b 5
  Ichor Slab
52 Ikon E3 5c * 2
53 Ichor E2 5c * 8
54 Complete the Asterisk E4 6a  
55 The Big Y E2 5c * 4
56 Y Not E2 5c  
  The Grey Tower
58 Cross Route
-
S 4a  
59 Suicide
-
HVS 5a  
60 The Magus
-
HVS 5
61 Steppenwolf HVS 5a *  
62 Steppenwolf Direct E2 5c ** 1
63 Gilgamesh
-
HVS 4c 1
64 Gilded Turd HVS 4c 4
65 Girdle Turd
-
VS 4c  
  The Shadow Beast Wall
67 Osram HVS 5a 13
68 Ulysses P1 E3 6a 7
69 Odysseus or Bust E4 6a * 2
70 Up the Styx, Without a Paddle 7b ** 26
71 Shadow Puppet 8a+ *** 1
72 Shadowstyx 7c ** 9
73 Shadow Beast 7c+ *** 5
74 Mustard Custard 7c *** 7
  The Odyssey Area
76 Hart of Darkness
-
E5 6b *  
77 The Odyssey HVS 5a 1
78 Ulysses P2 E1 5a  
79 Song of the Sirens VS 5a  
80 Thesaurus E4 6c  
81 The Minor Tour E4 6a  
82 The Poseiden Adventure E1 5a *  
83 Calypso E3 5c *  
84 Basking Shark E5 6c ** 1
  Main Slabs Area
86 Normal Hero E3 5c 2
87 Shelf Life E3 6a 1
88 Carbon Paper E4 6a * 2
89 Ruby in the Dust VS 4c * 41
90 Renegade E4 6a *** 22
91 Fibroids
-
E4 6a  
92 Black Ice E3 5c *** 122
93 Grip Type Thynne E1 5b * 17
94 Captain Buttwash
-
E3 6a  
95 Band of Rusty Gold
-
HVS 5a  
96 Coup de Grace VS 5a * 17
97 Magic Carpet Ride VS 4c 5
98 Transference
-
E1 5b  
99 Safari HVS 5a ** 14
100 Jaywalk VS 4b  

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