Climbs 89
Rocktype Limestone

Faces E

Mr Dale in 7c face mode. © tomrainbow

Crag features

A very worthwhile venue with a wide variety of climbs and climbing styles.
Its main attraction may now be it's deep water soloing - well developed with plenty of short, safe routes at a good mixture of grades (Fr4+ - 8a). In summer, the quarry rim gets sunshine for much of the day, although many solos will be in the shade.  The DWS is easily combined with a sport climbing trip to Ansteys Cove; check the tide times to optimise the visit. 
The back walls to the quarry offer some excellent slab climbs and a few rather tougher sport climbs in single and multi-pitch routes up to 90m.  The majority of the routes comprise relatively adventurous trad. climbs, many of which are reliant in key locations on in-situ pegs. Some vegetation and the ubiquitous 'LQP exfoliating flake' are likely to be encountered on the less frequented routes.  Hence the trad. routes are probably more suitable for those with plenty of experience.  Refer to notes on particular climbs for latest info. on condition. The leader should carry a nut key for broddling.  The back walls can be bleak in winter if the wind is from the east, but conversely it is feasible as a winter climbing venue if mild weather coincides with dry conditions, especially on a sunny morning.

Approach notes

From the outskirts of Torquay, follow road signs for Babbacombe (B3199). After passing through the town, head on towards Torquay and look out for a retail car park (currently The Range) on the left. Historically it has often been possible to park in this retail car park, but the status changes regularly; check for any notices. On-street parking is available in the general area as an alternative.
Take the footpath up onto Walls Hill Downs. Head for the pale coloured shelter by the perimeter fence; pass the fence at its left hand end and, for the large majority of the climbs, follow the steep descent path to the quarry floor (the exception is The Odyssey area, which can be approached by abseil from fenceposts set back). Brambles are prevalent at the foot of the back wall crags (Shadow Beast Wall in particular) and can hamper access to the start of some climbs; a bit of pruning by visiting climbers is encouraged (ie. take your secateurs...)
There has been a Spring period climbing restriction for breeding birds on the Grey Tower, Shadow Beast Wall and Odyssey area in recent years. Check the BMC RAD.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Long Traverse (DWS) 4c ** 210
  Quarry Pinnacle
3 Arete D 7
4 Lamia
E2 5c 2
5 Supernatural Anaesthetist
E4 6a * 1
6 Slipperman
E2 6a 1
7 Seaward Edge VS 4c * 3
8 South Seas E1 5b 2
9 Afterglow
E1 5a 1
10 Storm Child
S 4b 9
11 Ship's Biscuit
E2 5b 1
12 Sea Slip
S 4a 9
13 Crepes Suzettes
HVS 4c * 5
14 Flambe
VS 4c 2
  Boulder Choke Zawn
16 Slanting Chimney HVS 4c 2
17 Red Centre
6b * 3
18 Once a Swinger 7b ** 12
19 Cave Route S  
20 Corner Climb VS 4c 3
21 Et Tu Brutus
7a **  
22 Have a Good Flight
7a+ *  
23 Once a Dogger 7b+ S1 ** 27
24 Arapiles, Oh Arapiles (DWS) 7a+ S0 *** 114
  Crystal Zawn
26 The book of laughter 6c S1 6
27 Honour Bright (DWS) 6a+ S1 ** 77
28 Honour Bright Arete 6c S1 ** 32
29 Crystal Pockets (DWS) 5c S2 ** 79
30 Midget Gem 6a+ S3 20
  Outer Pinnacle
32 Blowhole route 4c ** 10
33 Jumping Jack Flash
VS 4c 2
34 High and Dry E1 5b * 1
Climb name Grade
  Scorpio Pinnacle
36 Scorpio VS 4c 6
37 Producer (DWS) 5a * 14
38 Rapido XS 6b *  
39 Retro Scare XS 6b 1
  Blow-hole Pinnacle
41 Blue Planet
7b+ ** 18
42 Christine 8a ** 2
43 No Time Like Now HVS 4c 5
44 Waiting for Charlie
7c *  
45 Losing My Religion
7b+ ***  
46 Waterline
6c+ 1
47 John & Tom's Excellent Adventure 6a+ * 7
  The Ridge
49 The Ridge
VD 8
50 Grey Tower HS 4b 5
  Ichor Slab
52 Ikon E3 5c * 2
53 Ichor E2 5c * 10
54 Complete the Asterisk E4 6a  
55 The Big Y E2 5c * 4
56 Y Not E2 5c  
  The Grey Tower
58 Cross Route S 4a  
59 Suicide HVS 5a  
60 The Magus HVS 5
61 Steppenwolf HVS 5a *  
62 Steppenwolf Direct E2 5c ** 2
63 Gilgamesh HVS 4c 1
64 Gilded Turd HVS 4c/5a * 4
65 Girdle Turd VS 4c  
  The Shadow Beast Wall
67 Osram HVS 5a 13
68 Ulysses P1 E3 6a 7
Climb name Grade
69 Odysseus or Bust E4 6a * 2
70 Up the Styx, Without a Paddle 7b ** 27
71 Shadow Puppet 8a+ *** 1
72 Shadowstyx 7c ** 9
73 Shadow Beast 7c+ *** 5
74 Mustard Custard 7c *** 7
75 Hart of Darkness
E5 6b *  
  The Odyssey Area
77 The Odyssey HVS 5a * 1
78 Ulysses P2 E1 5a *  
79 Song of the Sirens VS 5a  
80 Thesaurus E5 6c  
81 The Minor Tour E4 6a  
82 The Sorcery of Circe E3 5c *  
83 The Poseiden Adventure E1 5a/b *  
84 Calypso E3 5c *  
85 Basking Shark E5 6b ** 1
  Main Slabs Area
87 Normal Hero E3 5c 2
88 Shelf Life E3 6a 1
89 Carbon Paper E4 6a * 2
90 Ruby in the Dust VS 4c * 43
91 Renegade E4 6a *** 20
92 Fibroids
E4 6a  
93 Black Ice E3 5c *** 107
94 Grip Type Thynne E1 5b * 18
95 Captain Buttwash
E3 6a  
96 Band of Rusty Gold
HVS 5a  
97 Coup de Grace VS 5a * 19
98 Magic Carpet Ride VS 4c 5
99 Transference
E1 5b  
100 Safari HVS 5a ** 14
101 Jaywalk VS 4b  

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