Climbs 13
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

ian approaching the 'allotment' at the top. © minexplorer

Crag features

Plymouth's premier climbing venue is a low angled slab of immaculate rock quality and impressive dimensions. Upward progress is achieved by friction padding, and requires composure and a cool head. Protection is sparse, though arguably adequate for the nature of the climbing and a pair of half ropes are required for the 40m abseil descent. South facing and quick drying. Hot conditions will give poorer friction.

Approach notes

It is situated in Plymouth near Hooe Lake.

Access Banned

The owners (Wainhomes) have made it clear to the BMC that they do not want climbing to take place here. The climbs are recorded here for historical completeness and in case a future owner might take a more public spirited view. Whilst their rejected housing plans put great stock in "natural play areas" it seems their rhetoric does not extend to its current usage. The owners claim they will record number plates and take civil action against climbers if they can be identified. Presumably this hostility extends to local children and dog walkers who use the quarry on a daily basis. Currently the rather unimpressive Horrid Ground Weaver Spider is (impressively) holding this company's ambitions at bay.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Allotment Arete HS 4b 2
2 Left Edge HS 4b 6
3 Loner VD 7
4 Gangway HVD 6
5 Mac's Route VS 4b 5
6 Central Route HVS 5a 1
7 Strictly Private HVS 5a 4
8 Rockets VS 4c 5
9 The Long Slide HVS 5c 2
10 Cleavage VD 9
11 The Lonely Hold HVS 5a 2
12 Lunatic S 4a 4
13 Tremulous Traverse

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