Approach notes

A large car park is conveniently situated opposite the crag from which the crag is visible, harder when the foliage is up.

On the opposite side of the road to the car park entrance a small path zigzags up the hill, it's quite leafy so keep your eyes peeled. The first area reached is a large slab (very recently cleaned Apr 21) which meets a wall at ninety degrees on its left end. This is the 'perruque d'oreille' areafor want of an official title.

Behind this area on the left is a large wall containing the harder routes of the crag.

Right of the main slab is a large bolted dry tooling area, some of the lines look climbable sans tools.

A hundred metres right of the slab (keeping below very easy angled rock) traverse around a ledge which leads to a near vertical slab containing some 5-6s. Following this section of crag up a boulder and round the corner is another dry tooling area, noticeably with hanging logs as part of the routes. Two crack lines here look climbable.

For the boulders exit the car park and walk 100m along the road to the blocks set back 20m from the road. There are a few problems scattered about and a bay containing 4 mini routes.