Climbs 36
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

Jerome Taylor on 'Garth' F7b © Finn Clipson

Crag features

The rock is an odd mixture of limestone and shale, so it's best to stick to the starred routes (in the guidebook). Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 130ft.

Approach notes

Bird restriction due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. RSPB have signs up prohibiting climbing from March - August, this was confirmed with a phone call.

[Apr 07]

<<<Farmer/owner currently refusing permission to climb>>> [June 04]

>From Totnes, follow the B3210 towards Avonwick for about 3 miles. Take the turnoff marked "Hazard Farm". Please get the farmer's permission before climbing here. A short drive further down the lane provides parking just past a disused lime kiln.

Access Advice

The landowner does not permit climbing - the BMC corresponded with the owners on this. Watch this space for updates.

Spoke to owner in November 2010, and they are refusing entry because relatives of whoever needed the air ambulance asked why they weren't insured, so they decided no more climbers after that moment. The ban seems unlikely to be lifted...
dmaldonado - 13/Nov/10
Owner still refusing entry (April 2009). I spoke to the owners wife and she said it was both because of the birds nesting, and that an air ambulance was called out as some point, therefore they are worried about insurance. Hopefully this can be resolved when the birds stop nesting.
northnorthnorth - 11/Apr/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Croix De Guerre
E3 17
E3 5c **6
3TarzanE5 2
4Spear & JacksonE1 5b *7
5GrooveriderE2 5b **3
6Loose Grit?6a+ *7
7HaphazardHS 4b 1
8Scone-on...(the Cream Tea Slayer)E2 5c *2
9BanzaiE2 5b 6
10SquonkE1 5a 2
11ItsaconE1 5b 4
12Garth7b ***8
13Green Ranger
HVS 4b, 4c  
14Boss Hogg
E1 5a  
HVS 5a, 4b 1
16Absent Friends
E2 5b, 5c  
17The Boltin' Hazard
E5 6a  
18A Poke in the Hole
E3 5c *3
19The Black Streak
E4 6a  
20Hazardous Traverse
E3 5b, 5c  
21Therapeutic Structures
22Le Hazard
7a+ **4
E3 5c 2
24Tapes of Wrath
E3 5b, 5c 1
E2 5b 1
266c Right Of Bolting Hazard6c *1
27Loose Grit *E1 5b 1
28Meadow Fly *
VS 4b  
29Apparition *
6b+ **2
30Rosco *
31Swings and Roundabouts *E5 6b/c  
32Bee Careful *
E2 5b  
33The Winged Avenger *
7a+ 1
34Daisy Duke *6b+ **1
35Twilight *
VS 4c  
36Pastoral *
VS 4c  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fly or die