Climbs 36
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

Jerome Taylor on 'Garth' F7b © Finn Clipson

Crag features

The rock is an odd mixture of limestone and shale, so it's best to stick to the starred routes (in the guidebook). Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 130ft.

Approach notes

Bird restriction due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. RSPB have signs up prohibiting climbing from March - August, this was confirmed with a phone call.

[Apr 07]

<<<Farmer/owner currently refusing permission to climb>>> [June 04]

>From Totnes, follow the B3210 towards Avonwick for about 3 miles. Take the turnoff marked "Hazard Farm". Please get the farmer's permission before climbing here. A short drive further down the lane provides parking just past a disused lime kiln.

Access Advice

The landowner does not permit climbing - the BMC corresponded with the owners on this. Watch this space for updates.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The quarry has resident nesting pergrines. 2011 Update: the birds are not using the site this year so the nesting restriction does not apply

Spoke to owner in November 2010, and they are refusing entry because relatives of whoever needed the air ambulance asked why they weren't insured, so they decided no more climbers after that moment. The ban seems unlikely to be lifted...
dmaldonado - 13/Nov/10
Owner still refusing entry (April 2009). I spoke to the owners wife and she said it was both because of the birds nesting, and that an air ambulance was called out as some point, therefore they are worried about insurance. Hopefully this can be resolved when the birds stop nesting.
northnorthnorth - 11/Apr/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Croix De Guerre
-
E3 17
2 Samurai
-
E3 5c ** 6
3 Tarzan E5 2
4 Spear & Jackson E1 5b * 7
5 Grooverider E2 5b ** 3
6 Loose Grit? 6a+ * 7
7 Haphazard HS 4b 1
8 Scone-on...(the Cream Tea Slayer) E2 5c * 2
9 Banzai E2 5b 6
10 Squonk E1 5a 2
11 Itsacon E1 5b 4
12 Garth 7b *** 6
13 Green Ranger
-
HVS 4b, 4c  
14 Boss Hogg
-
E1 5a  
15 Dumnonia
-
HVS 5a, 4b 1
16 Absent Friends
-
E2 5b, 5c  
17 The Boltin' Hazard
-
E5 6a  
18 A Poke in the Hole
-
E3 5c * 3
19 The Black Streak
-
E4 6a  
20 Hazardous Traverse
-
E3 5b, 5c  
21 Therapeutic Structures
-
7c+  
22 Le Hazard
-
7a+ ** 4
23 Underwhelmed
-
E3 5c 2
24 Tapes of Wrath
-
E3 5b, 5c 1
25 Ikhnaton
-
E2 5b 1
26 6c Right Of Bolting Hazard 6c * 1
27 Loose Grit * E1 5b 1
28 Meadow Fly *
-
VS 4b  
29 Apparition *
-
6b+ ** 2
30 Rosco *
-
6c+  
31 Swings and Roundabouts * E5 6b/c  
32 Bee Careful *
-
E2 5b  
33 The Winged Avenger *
-
7a+ 1
34 Daisy Duke * 6b+ ** 1
35 Twilight *
-
VS 4c  
36 Pastoral *
-
VS 4c  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fly or die