UKC

Climbs 42
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 178m a.s.l
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Routes On Entrance Rock Detailed © raymondjohn1986

Crag features

Route descriptions are incorrect - there are no bolted routes other than on the entrance rock.
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I will no longer invest any more time this year into this crag due to the presence of climbers against bolting or individuals with no other productive activities.

I will replace the damaged bolts and inspect the remaining ones, but that will be the extent of my efforts this year.

If anyone feels energetic, please feel free to clean any routes on the back and sides.

My primary motivation for developing this crag was to introduce people to climbing and the outdoors, providing an easily accessible practice rock for the benefit of others. It was not solely for my personal climbing enjoyment. Unfortunately, the climbing community in Fermanagh tends to be regressive and unfriendly, lacking kindness towards one another. These are the reasons why resistance to change or assistance is met with animosity.

Now for the informational part:

I hope this small quarry will be utilized and enjoyed.

It offers small climbs with good handholds, belay spikes on the top, bolt anchors, and some rings.

(When using an anchor bolt, please back it up or use both. That's why there are two!)

There are some excellent climbs with easy routes at the front and more challenging climbs on the sides. The rock quality is great, and the quarry is ideal for improving climbing skills.

Newly bolted routes can be found on the entrance rock.

Some bolts near the top of certain routes were already installed by someone else. There are both new high-quality bolts and older ones. Although I did not install the older ones, I have tested and inspected them, and I personally use them. However, it's advisable to assess each bolt or hanger before clipping in (eventually, they may be replaced). It is possible to pass and use the new ones instead. Resins may also be used in the future.

Please ensure to check all bolts before using them.

As this is a limestone cliff, loose rocks are expected in some areas.

There are plenty of traditional climbing options at this quarry if you disagree with or prefer not to use bolts. Please avoid tampering with the bolts as it endangers others.

Please note that any routes on the back and side walls of the quarry may still require thorough cleaning or bolting.

Over time, more routes will become available in this area, and if funding or sufficient donations are received, the plan is to install resin bolts. Additionally, gathering volunteers to clean the remaining routes would be ideal, but it remains a wish at the moment.

Support from the climbing community for this venue would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Approach notes

Head towards boho (pollnagollum caves) and waterfall.

 

Parking on lay-by.

 

Walk towards the cave (waterfall) the quarry will be on the left.

Access to top of rock is up the side by route 1 or half way from gate.

Route descriptions are not accurate. Only the entrance block is bolted. Significant loose rock - not quite the beginner sport climbing area it sounds!
GaryWarnock - 12/Sep/23
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