Climbs 274
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 29m a.s.l
Faces SW

Ally seconding Them (E3 6a) at Avon © Paz

Crag features

Rockfall 25/03/2017. Morpheus to SOS unstable and pending stability assessment.

Quarried limestone, generally sound. Protection tends to be sparse. Wall is a real sun trap allowing for year-round climbing. Mainly multi-pitch routes up to about 90 metres. In the summer, escape up to the Downs and the waiting ice cream van.

Approach notes

Either scramble down from the Downs, or park the car at the car park at the bottom of Sea Walls, straight off the A4. 

As of 25 March 2017, there has been a serious rockfall. The area affected is from Morpheus to SOS, particularly around the tree belay above Nightmare. There is still a quantity of loose rock and loose blocks in the area. This area should be treated with caution for the time being. There may be some loose material still in place so take care.  

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avon Gorge (2017)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Sorry for any inconvenience caused, but UBES will be running "intro to climbing" days on the 30th of September and the 1st of October at Right Wing, and we expect a large volume of people to attend.
AWalker96 - 06/Sep/17
Several incidents of rock thrown from the top of the crag recently. Please be careful if climbing here and keep your eyes out for people acting suspiciously above.
Digga - 24/Jul/17
Several incidents of rock thrown from the top of the crag recently. Be careful and keep your eyes out if climbing here.
Digga - 24/Jul/17
Please be careful climbing around the central section near the car park due to rockfall from Morpheus (I would advise not climbing until the BMC have had a chance to clear the site of debris): https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=660803
JakeBest - 26/Mar/17
Scrubbed up Midnight Express, To be or not to Bolt and Tunnel vision over the last couple of days. Bit of chalk on them as well so prime for any budding onsighters.
remus - 11/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Unknown Wall
2 The Halcyon Days of the Bourgeoisie E2 6a 16
3 Spool to Tape
-
E1 5c 11
4 Quietly Confident
-
E2 6a 1
5 Hard Labour
-
E1 5a 3
6 Aasvogel VS 4c 15
7 Curtain Call
-
E2 5c 3
8 Wintersol E2 5b * 65
9 Stage Fright
-
E2 5c 4
10 Desecrator HVS 5a * 209
11 Klib
-
E4 6a 2
12 Castillos des Arenas
-
E3 5c  
13 Chalk and Cheese
-
E4 5c 1
14 The Bilk E4 5c * 18
15 The Blik E3 5b ** 74
16 Men of the World
-
E5 6a 4
17 Urban Gorilla E3 6a * 13
18 Unknown Wall VS 4c ** 402
19 Unknown Slab
-
E2 5c 1
20 The Orang Outang out of Jungle Book E3 6c  
21 Low Police Profile
-
E6 6b *  
  The Exploding Galaxy Wall
23 Reckless
-
E4 6a 1
24 This Flight Tonight
-
E5 6a  
25 Dragon
-
E3 5c ** 27
26 The Real St Werburghs E4 6b/c  
27 Unknown Pleasures E6 6b ** 2
28 Unknown Pleasures (Final Pitch) E3 5c *** 3
29 Amanita Muscarina E4 6a *** 72
30 Psychopath Way
-
E6 6b *  
31 Hammer Horror
-
E5 6a ** 7
32 Yellow Edge E3 5c *** 244
33 Quip U for Leisure
-
E3 5c 3
34 Captain Swing
-
E3 5c ** 55
35 The Haystack
-
E3 5c * 11
36 The Imploding Galaxy
-
E5 6a/b *  
37 Was It You? E7 6c ** 11
38 It Wasn't Me 7c ** 2
39 Tour de France
-
E6 6b ** 8
40 Duncan Goes to Clevedon
-
E4 6b * 1
  Unknown Buttress
42 Unknown Gully
-
VS 4c 28
43 Take Five
-
E1 5b 8
44 Hang Ten
-
E2 5c * 10
45 Smog of Things
-
E5 6b *  
46 The Pusher
-
E2 5b 8
47 New Horizons E3 5c ** 96
48 Superstition
-
E5 6a 2
49 Poked Off
-
E6 6a 3
50 Hocus Pocus E4 6a ** 49
51 Conjuring Trick
-
E5 6a 2
52 Catholics E1 5b * 27
53 M2
-
E1 5b * 223
54 M1 E1 5b ** 444
55 Motorway Madness
-
E4 6a * 18
56 Electra Glide E4 6a * 9
57 Ladder of Desire E3 5c *** 170
58 Cuban Eyes
-
E5 6b * 7
59 The Rebel Yell
-
E5 6b 1
60 Pigeon's Nest E3 6a 28
61 Crown of Thorns E7 6c 1
62 I'm 55 E6 6c * 2
63 Non-stick E2 6a 13
64 The Enchanted Gordon E6 6c * 3
65 Slap Stick E3 6b 5
66 Jimmy Lowe E5 6c 1
67 Make It Up as You Go Along
-
E2 5a 1
  Unknown Area Traverses
69 Zero Option
-
E5 6b *  
70 Level Headed
-
E7 6c *  
71 Altostratus
-
E4 5c * 1
72 Hot Air/Chasin' the Dragon
-
E2 5b * 11
73 Bop till You Drop
-
E3 5c  
74 Red Hot and Chaffeur Driven
-
E4 5c 1
  Upper Wall
76 Straight and Narrow
-
E5 6a  
77 Them E3 6a *** 176
78 Keep on Going
-
E4 6b  
79 Already Gone E6 6a * 8
80 Solar Power E5 6b ** 13
81 Slender Norris
-
E5 6c 8
82 Big Wednesday
-
E4 6b 10
83 New Horizons II E2 5c ** 456
84 An Illusion of Love
-
E6 6b 1
85 Lost Illusions E5 6b ** 36
86 Bold as Love E6 6b ** 25
87 Mirage E3 6a ** 204
88 Raindoctor
-
E5 6b  
89 Arms Race E4 5c *** 261
90 Living on the Skyline
-
E7 6c  
91 Street Life E5 6b 8
92 The Police
-
E5 6b  
93 High Profile
-
E6 6b  
94 Low Profile E5 6b *** 74
95 Stayin' Alive E4 5c * 8
96 Us E2 5b * 150
97 Flexi-time E3 5c 3
98 Shake-time E7 6b 1
99 What about Me? E2 5b 50
100 Um Bongo E6 6c * 11
101 Rancho Cucamonga E3 5c * 239
102 All Hail the Underdog. E5 6a 2
103 Banshee E2 5c * 391
104 Chocoholic E5 6a 3
105 Big Bertha E1 5a 3
106 Who Me?
-
E2 5a 34
107 The Prince 8b 10
108 The Ramp Challenge E6 6b *** 1
  The Problem Pages
110 Pilgrim's Progress E6 6c 2
111 Sex Symbol for Bunty E6 7a 2
112 The Metaphysical Flake
-
E5 6b 1
113 For Richard
-
E1 5a 6
114 My Ancestors
-
E4 6a 2
115 Nuts in May
-
E5 6b  
116 Dark Crystal
-
E3 6b 10
117 Statement of Youth E6 6c 1
118 Slippery People
-
E3 6b 6
119 Calcinogenesis
-
E4 5c 3
120 Dirty Stop Out
-
E3 6a/b 1
121 Vertically Limited
-
VS 4c 2
122 Irish Girl
-
E4 6b 1
123 Death by Chocolate
-
E4 6c  
124 In Loving Memory E5 6b  
125 Dead Dreams Fly Flags
-
E5 6b  
126 The Howling Tombird
-
VS 4b 3
  Rotten Row
128 Kitnova Park
-
HVS 5a 1
129 The Minute Waltz E6 6c 1
130 Eros
-
VS 4b 10
131 Pathos E4 6a 6
132 Ares E5 6c 1
133 Academic 8a 80
134 Academic Direct 8b 3
135 Senile Decay
-
E2 5c 1
136 Mellow Yellow
-
HVS 5a 1
  The Construction Site
138 Happy 'cause I'm Going Home
-
HVS 5a 1
139 Serenity Crack
-
E1 5a 3
140 Fit to Drott
-
E5 6a  
141 Earthmover
-
E2 5b 1
142 Hymac
-
E3 5c  
143 JCB
-
E3 5c  
144 Eric Exsykes E5 6c 1
145 Hatti Jacques E2 5c 5
146 Sod's Law
-
E5 5c 1
  Railed-Off Cave Area
148 Entrail HVS 5a 31
149 Just Searing Away 7b+ * 11
150 Oil on Canvas
-
E3 6a 14
151 Eleven Years On
-
E3 6a 7
152 The Pact E5 6b  
153 Thanatos HVS 5a * 72
154 Intestines
-
E4 6b 4
155 One Rawl for All E3 5c * 38
156 Cause without a Rebel E2 5b 3
157 Midnight Express
-
E6 6a ** 12
158 To Be Is Not to Bolt E7 6b 11
159 Train in the Distance E6 6c 1
160 Tunnel Vision E4 6c 11
161 The Housing (Cave Dwellers) Act 1000 BC E4 5c 11
162 The Beat
-
E5 6b 5
163 Starless And Bible Black E5 6b * 1
164 Small or Nothing
-
E5 5c * 6
165 Whizz for Atoms
-
E4 6a * 5
166 Paradiddle
-
HVS 5c 6
167 Done Years Ago
-
E2 5c 5
168 Slurp HVS 4b 34
169 Lost Atoms
-
E5 6a 4
170 The Melancholy of Departure
-
E5 6a  
171 Wretch E2 5a 10
172 S'All Over
-
E4 5c 5
173 Puke HVS 5a * 178
  Upper Terrace
175 Particles
-
f6C+ 6b 3
176 Hurts
-
18 *  
177 The Cover Up
-
E5 6b 1
178 Indecent Exposure
-
E2 5c * 39
179 Wobbly Bits
-
E4 5c 1
180 The Trembling
-
E5 6a 1
181 Shakin' All Over
-
E5 6b 1
182 Tremors
-
E5 6b 2
183 False Alarms
-
E3 6a * 8
184 Gold Star
-
E3 5c 10
  Central Section
186 Quick Flash E5 5c 2
187 The Featherless Biped E4 6a ** 13
188 Hugh's Groove E1 5a ** 23
189 Bisector wall E4 6a 8
190 Exterminating Angel E3 5b * 24
191 Who's Wall?
-
E4 6a * 10
192 Defining Limits E6 6c * 2
193 Terror Firma
-
E5 6a * 1
194 Comic Relief
-
E2 6a 9
195 Pongo Sid Chilli E3 6a 3
196 Gronk VS 4c ** 888
197 Morpheus HVD ** 1148
198 Bastardized E5 6a 1
199 Death or Dishonour
-
E4 5c 6
200 Exterminating 5b Leaders
-
E3 5b 2
201 Sleepwalk S 4a ** 853
202 Mobius
-
HVS 4c 47
203 Nightcap
-
HVS 5b 57
204 Nitecap start
-
V1 27
205 Eeny meeny miny mo...... * E4 5c/6a 2
  Right Wing
207 Pants Choice E1 6a 7
208 'King Choice E2 6b 6
209 For.... V4 60
210 PG Tips V6 6a/b 2
211 The Arete problem. V6 63
212 The Squirrel's Heart f7B+ * 2
213 The Arete Problem SDS V7 * 7
214 Crystal Tips V8 7
215 Most Choice E2 6b 24
216 Choice Traverse f7A 4
217 Connoisseur's Choice E2 6b 98
218 Connoisseur's SDS f7A+ 2
219 Punk's Choice E5 6c 4
220 Critic's Choice E5 6b * 30
221 The Tin Drum
-
HVS 5a 23
222 Oscar
-
E3 5b 7
223 Ffoeg's Folly E2 5c ** 267
224 Ffoeg's Folly (first pitch only) HVS 5a 223
225 Coyote Ugly E2 5c 2
226 Last Chance
-
E4 6b 6
227 Last Slip E3 5c *** 93
228 Last Slip direct start
-
E3 5b 51
229 Starfish Intersector E4 6a 4
230 Operational Reasons E1 5a 14
231 Shits and Giggles E7 6c 1
232 Gymslip E4 6b 37
233 Gymslip traverse V3 8
234 Every Smile You Fake E6 6b 2
235 Fast Grip
-
E2 5b * 94
236 Vulcan Death Grip E4 6a 2
237 Chameleon Feet
-
E4 6b 2
238 Pins and Needles E7 6b/c 1
239 Slow Motion MVS 4b 7
240 Nightmare S 4a ** 985
241 Nightmare (Direct Finish) VS 4c 84
242 One Scream's Enough 7c * 11
243 One Scream's Enough Direct 8a 2
244 Edgemaster E6 6b *** 9
245 Padansac E2 5c ** 231
246 Just So E5 5c * 15
247 The Quiet Mind E7 6b 7
248 Solution Pollution E5 6a 11
249 Feed Your Head Eclipsed E7 6b 2
250 Partial Eclipse E4 6b/c * 14
251 Stretcher E3 6c 4
252 Simian HVS 5a * 383
253 Humdinger Jury
-
E4 6b 3
254 Daydream VS 5a * 459
255 Hi, how are you VS 5a * 11
256 Zebedee
-
HVS 5a 52
257 Don't Slip
-
E5 6a * 34
258 The Aardvark and the Ferret E6 6b 22
259 SOS E4 5c 64
260 Syph
-
S 328
261 Idleburger Buttress VD * 676
262 Tigger HS 4a 14
263 Smoove Groove E6 6a * 54
264 The Independent Route E7 6b 12
265 5b Groove E3 5b 103
266 Floating Voter VS 4c * 502
267 5b Wall E3 5c 86
268 RG Traverse f6B+ 8
269 Jasper HVS 5b * 314
270 Jasper Roof
-
E2 5c 1
271 Jasper Carrott * E2 6a 1
272 Jumping Carrots VS 4b 197
273 Casper VS 4c 3
274 Jumping Beans S 24
275 Eliminate master E5 6c * 1
  The Mesa
277 Flash Gordon's Trip to Mars
-
E4 6a 17
278 anorexic little weirdo
-
E1 5C 17
279 The Bulimic Finish E1 5c 5
280 Hands Up Who Wants to Die?
-
E3 5b 7
281 Flash Harry
-
HVS 4c 11
282 Another Little Number
-
E1 5b 15
283 Imensa
-
E3 6a 1
284 Last Slip Direct E4 6a ** 1
285 Arcturus
-
E4 6a 6a 2
286 299 With a Conservatory VS 4c 3
287 Flash Gordon light HVS 5a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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