UKC

Climbs 368
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 30m a.s.l
Faces SW

Ally seconding Them (E3 6a) at Avon © Paz

Crag features

Quarried limestone, generally sound. Protection tends to be sparse. Wall is a real sun trap allowing for year-round climbing. Mainly multi-pitch routes up to about 90 metres. In the summer, escape up to the Downs and the waiting ice cream van.

As of 25 March 2017, there has been a serious rockfall. The area affected is from Morpheus to SOS, particularly around the tree belay above Nightmare. There is still a quantity of loose rock and loose blocks in the area. This area should be treated with caution for the time being. There may be some loose material still in place so take care.  

Approach notes

Either scramble down from the Downs, or park the car at the car park at the bottom of Sea Walls, straight off the A4. 

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avon Gorge (2017)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Sorry for any inconvenience caused, but UBES will be running "intro to climbing" days on the 30th of September and the 1st of October at Right Wing, and we expect a large volume of people to attend.
AWalker96 - 06/Sep/17
Several incidents of rock thrown from the top of the crag recently. Please be careful if climbing here and keep your eyes out for people acting suspiciously above.
Digga - 24/Jul/17
Several incidents of rock thrown from the top of the crag recently. Be careful and keep your eyes out if climbing here.
Digga - 24/Jul/17
Please be careful climbing around the central section near the car park due to rockfall from Morpheus (I would advise not climbing until the BMC have had a chance to clear the site of debris): https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=660803
JakeBest - 26/Mar/17
Scrubbed up Midnight Express, To be or not to Bolt and Tunnel vision over the last couple of days. Bit of chalk on them as well so prime for any budding onsighters.
remus - 11/May/14
Watch out for goats atop the crag - they occasionally knock a stone down
clams - 29/May/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Unknown Area
  Unknown Wall
3 The Halcyon Days of the Bourgeoisie E3 6a 16
4 Spool to Tape
-
E1 5c 11
5 Quietly Confident
-
E2 6a 1
6 Hard Labour
-
E1 5a 3
7 Aasvogel VS 4c 17
8 Curtain Call
-
E2 5c 2
9 Wintersol E2 5b * 62
10 Stage Fright
-
E2 5c 4
11 Desecrator HVS 5a * 198
12 Klib
-
E3 6a 3
13 Klib (Cave Start)
-
E3 6a  
14 Castillos des Arenas
-
E3 5c  
15 Chalk and Cheese
-
E4 5c 1
16 The Bilk E4 5c * 19
17 The Blik E3 5b ** 70
18 Men of the World E5 6a 4
19 Appendix E4 6a 1
20 Urban Gorilla
-
E3 5c * 15
21 Urban Gorilla Direct
-
E4 6a  
22 Unknown Wall VS 4c ** 400
23 Unknown Wall Direct
-
HVS 4c  
24 Unknown Slab
-
E2 5c 1
25 The Orang Outang out of Jungle Book E3 6c 1
  The Exploding Galaxy Wall
27 Reckless
-
E4 6a 1
28 This Flight Tonight E5 6a  
29 Dragon E3 5c ** 22
30 The Real St Werburghs E4 6b/c  
31 Unknown Pleasures E6 6b 2
32 Unknown Pleasures (Final Pitch) E3 5c *** 5
33 Amanita Muscarina E4 6a *** 67
34 Psychopath Way E6 6b *  
35 Hammer Horror E4 6a ** 7
36 Zombie Nation E5 6a  
37 Yellow Edge E3 5c *** 224
38 Quip U for Leisure
-
E3 5c 3
39 Captain Swing E3 5c ** 55
40 The Haystack E3 5c * 12
41 The Imploding Galaxy E5 6a/b * 1
42 Tour de France E6 6b ** 10
43 Was It You?
-
E6 6c ** 11
44 It Wasn't Me E6 6c ** 2
45 Duncan Goes to Clevedon
-
E4 6b * 1
  Unknown Buttress
47 Unknown Gully
-
HVS 5a 28
48 Take Five E2 5b 8
49 Hang Ten E3 5c * 10
50 Smog of Things
-
E6 6b *  
51 The Pusher E2 5b 8
52 New Horizons E3 5c ** 95
53 Superstition
-
E5 6a 2
54 Poked Off
-
E6 6a 3
55 Hocus Pocus E4 6a ** 49
56 Conjuring Trick
-
E5 6a 2
57 M2 E1 5b * 217
58 M1 E1 5b ** 477
59 Motorway Madness E4 6a * 18
60 Electra Glide Direct Start
-
E4 6a/b  
61 Electra Glide E4 6a * 9
62 Ladder of Desire E3 5c *** 168
63 Cuban Eyes
-
E5 6b * 7
64 The Rebel Yell
-
E6 6b 1
65 Pigeon's Nest E3 6a 27
66 Crown of Thorns E7 6c 1
67 I'm 55 E6 6c * 2
68 Non-stick E2 6a 13
69 The Enchanted Gordon E6 7a * 3
70 Slap Stick E3 6b 5
71 Jimmy Lowe E5 6c 1
72 Make It Up as You Go Along
-
E2 5a 1
  Upper Wall
74 Straight and Narrow
-
E5 6a  
75 Them E3 6a *** 162
76 Keep on Going
-
E4 6b  
77 Already Gone E5 6a * 8
78 Already Gone Direct Start
-
E6 5c  
79 Rising Sun
-
E6 6a  
80 Solar Power E4 6b ** 14
81 Slender Norris
-
E5 6c 9
82 Big Wednesday
-
E4 6b 10
83 New Horizons II E2 5c ** 481
84 An Illusion of Love
-
E6 6b 1
85 Lost Illusions E5 6b ** 39
86 Bold as Love E6 6b ** 30
87 Mirage E3 6a ** 207
88 Raindoctor
-
E5 6b  
89 Arms Race E4 5c *** 244
90 Street Life E5 6b 11
91 Living on the Skyline
-
E7 6c  
92 Low Profile E5 6b *** 70
93 Low Police Profile
-
E6 6b 1
94 Higher Profile
-
E6 6b  
95 Us E2 5b * 159
96 What about Me? E2 5b 54
97 Um Bongo E6 6c * 11
98 Rancho Cucamonga E3 5c * 255
99 All Hail the Underdog E5 6a 2
100 Banshee E2 5c * 417
101 Who Me?
-
E4 5b 35
102 The Prince 8a+ 10
  Chocoholics Wall
104 Stayin' Alive E4 5c * 8
105 Flexi-time E3 5c 3
106 Shake-time E7 6b 1
107 Banshee II
-
E1 4c  
108 Chocoholic E5 6a 3
109 Big Bertha E1 5a 3
  Unknown Area Traverses
111 Red Hot and Chaffeur Driven
-
E4 5c 1
112 Bop till You Drop
-
E3 5c  
113 Hot Air & Chasin' the Dragon
-
E2 5b * 11
114 Altostratus
-
E4 5c * 3
115 Level Headed
-
E7 6c *  
116 Zero Option
-
E5 6b *  
117 The Ramp Challenge E6 6b *** 1
  Sea Walls
  The Problem Pages
120 Pilgrim's Progress E6 6c 2
121 Sex Symbol for Bunty E6 7a 2
122 The Metaphysical Flake
-
E5 6b 2
123 For Richard
-
E1 5a 6
124 My Ancestors
-
E4 6a 2
125 Nuts in May
-
E5 6b 1
126 Pinball Wizard E2 5c 5
127 Statement of Youth
-
E6 6c 1
128 Slippery People
-
E3 6b 9
129 Calcinogenesis
-
E4 5c 3
Climb name Grade
130 Ataloss
-
E2 5c  
131 Dirty Stop Out
-
E3 6a/b 1
132 Vertically Limited
-
VS 4c 2
133 Irish Girl
-
E4 6b 1
134 Death by Chocolate
-
E4 6c  
135 In Loving Memory E5 6b  
136 Dead Dreams Fly Flags
-
E5 6b  
137 Dark Crystal
-
E3 6b 11
138 The Howling Tombird
-
VS 4b 4
  Academic Buttress
140 Kitnova Park
-
HVS 5a 3
141 The Minute Waltz E6 6c 1
142 Bathos
-
E2 5c  
143 Eros
-
HS 4b 15
144 Pathos E2 6a * 5
145 Ares E5 6c * 1
146 Academic 8a 66
147 Academic Direct 8b 3
148 Senile Decay
-
E2 5c 1
149 Mellow Yellow
-
HVS 5b 1
150 Shiner
-
6b+  
  The Construction Site
152 Happy 'cause I'm Going Home
-
HVS 5a 1
153 Serenity Crack
-
E1 5a 3
154 Fit to Drott
-
E5 6a  
155 Earthmover
-
E2 5c 1
156 Hymac
-
E3 5c  
157 Overkill is Under-rated
-
E3 6a  
158 JCB
-
E3 5c  
159 Eric Exsykes E5 6c 1
160 Hatti Jacques E2 5c 5
161 Sod's Law
-
E5 5c 1
  Railed-Off Cave Area
163 Entrail HVS 5a 33
164 Just Searing Away 7b+ * 11
165 Oil on Canvas
-
E3 6a 14
166 Eleven Years On
-
E3 6a 7
167 Thirty-One Years
-
E3 6b  
168 The Pact
-
E5 6b  
169 Thanatos
-
HVS 5b * 67
170 Intestines
-
E4 6b 4
171 Cause without a Rebel
-
E5 5c 4
172 One Rawl for All E3 5c * 41
173 Midnight Express
-
E6 6a ** 14
174 Marvin the Marmot
-
E6 6a  
175 To Be Is Not to Bolt E7 6b 12
176 Train in the Distance E6 6c 1
177 Tunnel Vision E4 6c 11
178 The Housing (Cave Dwellers) Act 1000 BC E4 5c 11
179 The Beat
-
E5 6b 5
180 Starless and Bible Black E5 6b * 1
181 Small or Nothing
-
E5 5c * 6
182 Whizz for Atoms
-
E4 6b * 5
183 Paradiddle
-
E3 5c 6
184 Done Years Ago
-
E2 5c 5
185 Slurp
-
HVS 4b 32
186 5/8 Lick
-
E2 5b  
187 Leap Year with Larry
-
E3 5b  
188 Lost Atoms
-
E5 6a 5
189 The Melancholy of Departure
-
E5 6a  
190 Wretch
-
E2 5a 10
191 Puke Direct Start
-
E1 5a  
192 S'All Over
-
E5 5c 5
193 Puke
-
HVS 5a * 178
  Upper Terrace
195 Particles
-
f6C+ 3
196 The Cover Up E5 6b 1
197 Indecent Exposure E2 5c * 44
198 Wobbly Bits
-
E3 5c 1
199 The Trembling E5 6a 1
200 Kiev E2 f7b  
201 Tremors E4 6b 3
202 Shakin' All Over E5 6b 1
203 False Alarms E3 6a * 9
204 Gold Star E3 5c 10
  Central Section
206 Quick Flash E5 5c 2
207 The Featherless Biped E4 6a ** 15
208 Hugh's Groove E1 5a ** 18
209 Bisector Wall E4 6a 9
210 Exterminating Angel E3 5b * 25
211 Eeny meeny miny mo, this looks serious, don't let go!
-
E4 6a 2
212 Who's Wall?
-
E4 6a * 10
213 Defining Limits E6 6c * 2
214 Terror Firma E5 6a * 1
215 Comic Relief
-
E2 6a 9
216 Pongo Sid Chilli E3 6a 3
217 Gronk VS 4c ** 938
218 Morpheus HVD ** 1216
219 Bastardized E4 6a 1
220 Death or Dishonour
-
E3 5c 6
221 Anything but Over
-
E3 5b  
222 Exterminating 5b Leaders
-
E3 5b 3
223 Sleepwalk S 4a ** 911
224 Mobius HVS 4c 43
225 Nightcap HVS 5b 53
226 Nitecap Start
-
V1 27
227 To Be Taken Quietly in Sleep
-
E6 6a  
  Right Wing
229 Pants Choice
-
f6A 8
230 King Choice f6B 6
231 Introvert's Choice
-
f6C  
232 Jon's Dyno
-
f6B+ 63
233 One for the Road
-
f6C+  
234 PG Tips V6 3
235 The Arête f6C+ 61
236 The Arête, Sit-start V7 * 9
237 The Squirrel's Heart f7B+ * 3
238 Crystal Tips V8 7
239 Most Choice
-
f6B+ 27
240 The Choice Traverse f7A 4
241 Connoisseur's Choice E2 6b 95
242 Connoisseur's Choice, Sit-start f7A+ 2
243 Punk's Choice E5 6c 4
244 Critic's Choice E5 6b * 33
245 The Tin Drum HVS 5a 25
246 Ffoeg's Folly E2 5c ** 272
247 Ffoeg's Folly (P1) HVS 5a 237
248 Coyote Ugly E2 5c 2
249 Last Chance E4 6b 6
250 Last Slip E3 5c *** 84
251 Last Slip Direct Start
-
E3 5b 53
252 Gymslip
-
E4 6b 39
253 Gymslip Traverse V3 10
254 Little Nedwin E3 5b 2
255 Operational Reasons E2 5b 15
256 Shits and Giggles E7 6c 1
257 Every Smile You Fake E6 6b 2
258 Fast Grip
-
E2 5b * 99
Climb name Grade
259 Vulcan Death Grip E4 5c 2
260 Chameleon Feet
-
E4 6b 2
261 Pins and Needles E7 6b/c 1
262 Unusual Places to Visit Before You Die
-
E4 5c  
263 Oscar
-
E3 5b 7
264 Lord Bafta
-
E3 5b  
265 Nightmare S 4a ** 1052
266 Nightmare Direct Finish VS 4c 92
267 Before Bloc
-
E1 5c  
268 Slow Motion VS 4b 9
269 One Scream's Enough
-
7c * 11
270 One Scream's Enough Direct
-
8a 2
271 Edgemaster E6 6b *** 9
272 Eliminate Master E5 6c * 1
273 Padansac E2 5c ** 228
274 Just So E5 5c * 15
275 The Quiet Mind
-
E6 6a/b 7
276 Solution Pollution E5 6a 11
277 Feed Your Head (Eclipsed) E7 6b 2
278 Partial Eclipse E4 6b/c * 15
279 Stretcher E3 6c 4
280 Simian HVS 5a * 390
281 Humdinger Jury
-
E4 6b 3
282 Daydream VS 5a * 493
283 Hi, how are you? VS 5a * 14
284 Zebedee
-
HVS 5a 55
285 Don't Slip
-
E5 6a * 36
286 The Aardvark and the Ferret E6 6b 22
287 SOS E4 5c 62
  Idleburger Buttress Area
289 Syph
-
S 349
290 Idleburger Buttress VD * 724
291 Tigger HS 4a 29
292 Smoove Groove
-
E5 6a * 54
293 The Independent Route E7 6b 12
294 5b Groove E3 5b 103
295 Floating Voter VS 4c * 525
296 5b Wall E4 5c 90
297 RG Traverse f6B+ 14
298 Jasper HVS 5b * 320
299 Jasper's Roof
-
E2 5c 2
300 Jumping Carrots
-
VS 5a 203
301 Jasper Carrott E2 6a 2
302 Casper VS 4c 4
303 Jumping Beans E2 5b 25
  The Mesa
305 Flash Gordon Light HVS 5a 2
306 Flash Gordon's Trip to Mars
-
E4 6a 17
307 King of the Impossible
-
E5 6b  
308 Anorexic Little Weirdo
-
E1 5c 17
309 The Bulimic Finish
-
E1 5c 5
310 Hands Up Who Wants to Die?
-
E3 5b 7
311 Flash Harry
-
HVS 4c 9
312 Another Little Number
-
E1 5b 14
313 Imensa
-
E2 5b 1
  New Quarry
315 For the Love of Ivy
-
VS 4c 2
316 Men Talking Goats 5c 56
317 Agua Colorado
-
E3 5c 12
318 Skulking Agent 7a+ * 1
319 Bulking Agent 7b+ 26
320 Bitter and Twisted 7a+ 173
321 Bitter and Twisted Traverse f7B 12
322 Dinosaur Beach 6b+ * 247
323 Jurassic Lark
-
6b+ 97
324 Brundle-fly Fusion
-
E3 5b 6
325 Ska is the Limit
-
E3 5c  
326 Fry Crispin Fry
-
E3 5b * 3
327 Sand Sapphire
-
E4 5c  
328 The Harry Brown Start
-
E4 6a  
329 Combined Tactics
-
E3 5c 3
330 Zildjan E4 6a * 3
331 Paiste 2002 7a * 134
332 Cymbeline 6c+ 74
333 Cymbal the Pun
-
E4 5c 3
334 The Echo
-
E2 5c 11
335 Full Metal Cymbal 6b+ 126
336 Brutal Dub 6c+ ** 169
337 Ready and Waiting 7a+ * 80
338 The Fury
-
7b 34
339 Product of an Unsound Mind
-
E5 6b 4
340 Exhumation E5 6a * 15
341 A Drop in the Ocean of Decay 6c+ * 39
342 Manoir de Kerlut E3 6a 21
343 Mensa
-
XS 5c 1
344 Crowhurst's Folly
-
XS 5c/6a  
345 Shiva
-
XS 5b  
346 The Happy Trundlers
-
XS 5a 3
347 Body Bag
-
E3 5b  
348 Bushmen Don't Surf 6b ** 235
349 Bushmen... (Chepstow Zombie Finish) 6b ** 154
350 System Z
-
E1 5a 12
351 Finish of '68
-
XS 5a  
352 Motivated Thinking E2 5b 3
353 Just This Once E3 5b 1
354 Quit Talking and Start Chalking E3 5c 16
355 No Crag for Old Men 6b ** 228
356 No CSC 6b 26
357 En Trend 6b * 152
358 No Strange Delight E3 5c * 32
359 Stammheim 6b * 226
360 Badder Beginning E4 6a 1
361 The Gobbler
-
E2 5b 16
362 Dependency
-
E4 5c  
363 Van Dieman's Land
-
E3 5c * 8
364 Night of the Comic Dead HVS 5a * 69
365 Pastiche HVS 5a * 36
366 Fat, Tall and Small HVS 5a 28
367 Heartbeat City E1 5b * 41
368 Shale We Dance? XS 5b 1
369 Love and Affection
-
E2 5c * 12
370 Sugar and Spice
-
E1 5b 16
371 Puppydog Tails E2 5b * 10
372 End of the Line? E1 5b 17
373 Spleen Fury and the Rockheads
-
E2 5c 4
374 Private and Confidential
-
E2 5b * 11
375 The New Quarrymen XS 5b  
376 Act of Faith
-
E3 5b 1
377 God 6c 47
378 Blasphemy
-
E1 5a 2
379 Urban Myth
-
E2 5a 4
380 JHC
-
E2 5b  
381 Pumping Station
-
VS 1
382 XK V8
-
VS  
  Traverses
384 Loony Tunes 6c+  
385 The Cancerous Tropic E3 5c 1
386 Made for Fashion E2 5c 1
387 The New New Quarry Traverse none 5c 104

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