Climbs 369
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 30m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Ally seconding Them (E3 6a) at Avon © Paz

Crag features

Quarried limestone, generally sound. Protection tends to be sparse. Wall is a real sun trap allowing for year-round climbing. Mainly multi-pitch routes up to about 90 metres. In the summer, escape up to the Downs and the waiting ice cream van.

As of 25 March 2017, there has been a serious rockfall. The area affected is from Morpheus to SOS, particularly around the tree belay above Nightmare. There is still a quantity of loose rock and loose blocks in the area. This area should be treated with caution for the time being. There may be some loose material still in place so take care.

Topo for New Quarry can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17d7bTU2ONVSSMPus5tONyydN2QSNMZOq?usp=sharing

Approach notes

Either scramble down from the Downs, or park the car at the car park at the bottom of Sea Walls, straight off the A4. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avon Gorge (2017)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Sorry for any inconvenience caused, but UBES will be running "intro to climbing" days on the 30th of September and the 1st of October at Right Wing, and we expect a large volume of people to attend.
AWalker96 - 06/Sep/17
Several incidents of rock thrown from the top of the crag recently. Please be careful if climbing here and keep your eyes out for people acting suspiciously above.
Digga - 24/Jul/17
Several incidents of rock thrown from the top of the crag recently. Be careful and keep your eyes out if climbing here.
Digga - 24/Jul/17
Please be careful climbing around the central section near the car park due to rockfall from Morpheus (I would advise not climbing until the BMC have had a chance to clear the site of debris): https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=660803
JakeBest - 26/Mar/17
Scrubbed up Midnight Express, To be or not to Bolt and Tunnel vision over the last couple of days. Bit of chalk on them as well so prime for any budding onsighters.
remus - 11/May/14
Watch out for goats atop the crag - they occasionally knock a stone down
clams - 29/May/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Unknown Area
  Unknown Wall
3 The Halcyon Days of the Bourgeoisie E3 6a 16
4 Spool to Tape
-
E1 5c 11
5 Quietly Confident
-
E2 6a 1
6 Hard Labour
-
E1 5a 4
7 Aasvogel VS 4c 17
8 Curtain Call
-
E2 5c 2
9 Wintersol E2 5b * 63
10 Stage Fright
-
E2 5c 4
11 Desecrator HVS 5a * 206
12 Klib
-
E3 6a 3
13 Klib (Cave Start)
-
E3 6a  
14 Castillos des Arenas
-
E3 5c  
15 Chalk and Cheese
-
E4 5c 1
16 The Bilk E4 5c * 19
17 The Blik E3 5b ** 72
18 Men of the World E5 6a 4
19 Appendix E4 6a 1
20 Urban Gorilla
-
E3 5c * 16
21 Urban Gorilla Direct
-
E4 6a 1
22 Unknown Wall VS 4c ** 411
23 Unknown Wall Direct
-
HVS 4c  
24 Unknown Slab
-
E2 5c 2
25 The Orang Outang out of Jungle Book E3 6c 1
  The Exploding Galaxy Wall
27 Reckless
-
E4 6a 1
28 This Flight Tonight E5 6a  
29 Dragon E3 5c ** 22
30 The Real St Werburghs E4 6b/c  
31 Unknown Pleasures E6 6b 2
32 Unknown Pleasures (Final Pitch) E3 5c *** 5
33 Amanita Muscarina E4 6a *** 74
34 Psychopath Way E6 6b *  
35 Hammer Horror E4 6a ** 8
36 Zombie Nation E5 6a  
37 Yellow Edge E3 5c *** 234
38 Quip U for Leisure
-
E3 5c 3
39 Captain Swing E3 5c ** 55
40 The Haystack E3 5c * 12
41 The Imploding Galaxy E5 6a/b * 1
42 Tour de France E6 6b ** 10
43 Was It You?
-
E6 6c ** 11
44 It Wasn't Me E6 6c ** 2
45 Duncan Goes to Clevedon
-
E4 6b * 1
  Unknown Buttress
47 Unknown Gully
-
HVS 5a 28
48 Take Five E2 5b 8
49 Hang Ten E3 5c * 10
50 Smog of Things
-
E6 6b *  
51 The Pusher E2 5b 8
52 New Horizons E3 5c ** 98
53 Superstition
-
E5 6a 2
54 Poked Off
-
E6 6a 4
55 Hocus Pocus E4 6a ** 50
56 Conjuring Trick
-
E5 6a 2
57 M2 E1 5b * 221
58 M1 E1 5b ** 492
59 Motorway Madness E4 6a * 18
60 Electra Glide Direct Start
-
E4 6a/b 1
61 Electra Glide E4 6a * 9
62 Ladder of Desire E3 5c *** 171
63 Cuban Eyes
-
E5 6b * 7
64 The Rebel Yell
-
E6 6b 1
65 Pigeon's Nest E3 6a 27
66 Crown of Thorns E7 6c 1
67 I'm 55 E6 6c * 2
68 Non-stick E2 6a 13
69 The Enchanted Gordon E6 7a * 3
70 Slap Stick E3 6b 5
71 Jimmy Lowe E5 6c 1
72 Make It Up as You Go Along
-
E2 5a 1
  Upper Wall
74 Straight and Narrow
-
E5 6a 1
75 Them E3 6a *** 168
76 Keep on Going
-
E4 6b 1
77 Already Gone E5 6a * 10
78 Already Gone Direct Start
-
E6 5c  
79 Rising Sun
-
E6 6a  
80 Solar Power E4 6b ** 17
81 Slender Norris
-
E5 6c 10
82 Big Wednesday
-
E4 6b 10
83 New Horizons II E2 5c ** 514
84 An Illusion of Love
-
E6 6b 1
85 Lost Illusions E5 6b ** 44
86 Bold as Love E6 6b ** 31
87 Mirage E3 6a ** 222
88 Raindoctor
-
E5 6b 1
89 Arms Race E4 5c *** 255
90 Street Life E5 6b 15
91 Living on the Skyline
-
E7 6c  
92 Low Profile E5 6b *** 77
93 Low Police Profile
-
E6 6b 2
94 Higher Profile
-
E6 6b  
95 Us E2 5b * 166
96 What about Me? E2 5b 54
97 Um Bongo E6 6c * 11
98 Rancho Cucamonga E3 5c * 261
99 All Hail the Underdog E5 6a 2
100 Banshee E2 5c * 428
101 Who Me?
-
E4 5b 35
102 The Prince 8a+ 10
  Chocoholics Wall
104 Stayin' Alive E4 5c * 8
105 Flexi-time E3 5c 3
106 Shake-time E7 6b 1
107 Banshee II
-
E1 4c  
108 Chocoholic E5 6a 3
109 Big Bertha E1 5a 3
  Unknown Area Traverses
111 Red Hot and Chaffeur Driven
-
E4 5c 1
112 Bop till You Drop
-
E3 5c  
113 Hot Air & Chasin' the Dragon
-
E2 5b * 11
114 Altostratus
-
E4 5c * 3
115 Level Headed
-
E7 6c *  
116 Zero Option
-
E5 6b * 1
117 The Ramp Challenge E6 6b *** 1
  Sea Walls
  The Problem Pages
120 Pilgrim's Progress E6 6c 2
121 Sex Symbol for Bunty E6 7a 2
122 The Metaphysical Flake
-
E5 6b 2
123 For Richard
-
E1 5a 6
124 My Ancestors
-
E4 6a 2
125 Nuts in May
-
E5 6b 1
126 Pinball Wizard E2 5c 5
127 Statement of Youth
-
E6 6c 1
128 Slippery People
-
E3 6b 10
129 Calcinogenesis
-
E4 5c 3
130 Ataloss
-
E2 5c  
Climb name Grade
131 Dirty Stop Out
-
E3 6a/b 1
132 Vertically Limited
-
VS 4c 2
133 Irish Girl
-
E4 6b 1
134 Death by Chocolate
-
E4 6c  
135 In Loving Memory E5 6b  
136 Dead Dreams Fly Flags
-
E5 6b  
137 Dark Crystal
-
E3 6b 11
138 The Howling Tombird
-
VS 4b 4
  Academic Buttress
140 Kitnova Park
-
HVS 5a 3
141 The Minute Waltz E6 6c 1
142 Bathos
-
E2 5c  
143 Eros
-
HS 4b 18
144 Pathos E2 6a * 7
145 Ares E5 6c * 1
146 Academic 8a 67
147 Academic Direct 8b 3
148 Senile Decay
-
E2 5c 1
149 Mellow Yellow
-
HVS 5b 1
150 Shiner
-
6b+ 2
  The Construction Site
152 Happy 'cause I'm Going Home
-
HVS 5a 1
153 Serenity Crack
-
E1 5a 3
154 Fit to Drott
-
E5 6a  
155 Earthmover
-
E2 5c 1
156 Hymac
-
E3 5c  
157 Overkill is Under-rated
-
E3 6a  
158 JCB
-
E3 5c  
159 Eric Exsykes E5 6c 1
160 Hatti Jacques E2 5c 5
161 Sod's Law
-
E5 5c 1
  Railed-Off Cave Area
163 Entrail HVS 5a 33
164 Just Searing Away 7b+ * 12
165 Oil on Canvas
-
E3 6a 14
166 Eleven Years On
-
E3 6a 7
167 Thirty-One Years
-
E3 6b  
168 The Pact
-
E5 6b  
169 Thanatos
-
HVS 5b * 67
170 Intestines
-
E4 6b 4
171 Cause without a Rebel
-
E5 5c 4
172 One Rawl for All E3 5c * 41
173 Midnight Express
-
E6 6a ** 14
174 Marvin the Marmot
-
E6 6a  
175 To Be Is Not to Bolt E7 6b 12
176 Train in the Distance E6 6c 1
177 Tunnel Vision E4 6c 11
178 The Housing (Cave Dwellers) Act 1000 BC E4 5c 11
179 The Beat
-
E5 6b 5
180 Starless and Bible Black E5 6b * 1
181 Small or Nothing
-
E5 5c * 6
182 Whizz for Atoms
-
E4 6b * 5
183 Paradiddle
-
E3 5c 6
184 Done Years Ago
-
E2 5c 5
185 Slurp
-
HVS 4b 32
186 5/8 Lick
-
E2 5b  
187 Leap Year with Larry
-
E3 5b  
188 Lost Atoms
-
E5 6a 5
189 The Melancholy of Departure
-
E5 6a  
190 Wretch
-
E2 5a 10
191 Puke Direct Start
-
E1 5a 1
192 S'All Over
-
E5 5c 5
193 Puke
-
HVS 5a * 183
  Upper Terrace
195 Particles
-
f6C+ 5
196 The Cover Up E5 6b 1
197 Indecent Exposure E2 5c * 46
198 Wobbly Bits
-
E3 5c 1
199 The Trembling E5 6a 1
200 Kiev E2 f7b  
201 Tremors E4 6b 3
202 Shakin' All Over E5 6b 1
203 False Alarms E3 6a * 9
204 Gold Star E3 5c 10
  Central Section
206 Quick Flash E5 5c 2
207 The Featherless Biped E4 6a ** 17
208 Hugh's Groove E1 5a ** 19
209 Bisector Wall E4 6a 11
210 Exterminating Angel E3 5b * 27
211 Eeny meeny miny mo, this looks serious, don't let go!
-
E4 6a 2
212 Who's Wall?
-
E4 6a * 10
213 Defining Limits E6 6c * 2
214 Terror Firma E5 6a * 1
215 Comic Relief
-
E2 6a 9
216 Pongo Sid Chilli E3 6a 4
217 Gronk VS 4c ** 973
218 Morpheus HVD ** 1274
219 Bastardized E4 6a 1
220 Death or Dishonour
-
E3 5c 6
221 Anything but Over
-
E3 5b  
222 Exterminating 5b Leaders
-
E3 5b 3
223 Sleepwalk S 4a ** 953
224 Mobius HVS 4c 44
225 Nightcap HVS 5b 56
226 Nitecap Start
-
V1 33
227 To Be Taken Quietly in Sleep
-
E6 6a  
228 Jon's Dyno * V4 6b 6
  Right Wing
230 Pants Choice
-
f6A 13
231 King Choice f6B 11
232 Introvert's Choice
-
f6C 2
233 Jon's Dyno
-
f6B+ 68
234 One for the Road
-
f6C+ 2
235 PG Tips V6 5
236 The Arête f6C+ 65
237 The Arête, Sit-start V7 * 12
238 The Squirrel's Heart f7B+ * 4
239 Crystal Tips V8 7
240 Most Choice
-
f6B+ 32
241 The Choice Traverse f7A 6
242 Connoisseur's Choice E2 6b 97
243 Connoisseur's Choice, Sit-start f7A+ 4
244 Punk's Choice E5 6c 4
245 Critic's Choice E5 6b * 34
246 The Tin Drum HVS 5a 26
247 Ffoeg's Folly E2 5c ** 275
248 Ffoeg's Folly (P1) HVS 5a 250
249 Coyote Ugly E2 5c 3
250 Last Chance E4 6b 6
251 Last Slip E3 5c *** 88
252 Last Slip Direct Start
-
E3 5b 53
253 Gymslip
-
E4 6b 44
254 Gymslip Traverse V3 17
255 Little Nedwin E3 5b 3
256 Operational Reasons E2 5b 16
257 Shits and Giggles E7 6c 1
258 Every Smile You Fake E6 6b 2
259 Fast Grip
-
E2 5b * 102
260 Vulcan Death Grip E4 5c 3
Climb name Grade
261 Chameleon Feet
-
E4 6b 2
262 Pins and Needles E7 6b/c 1
263 Unusual Places to Visit Before You Die
-
E4 5c  
264 Oscar
-
E3 5b 7
265 Lord Bafta
-
E3 5b  
266 Nightmare S 4a ** 1083
267 Nightmare Direct Finish VS 4c 94
268 Before Bloc
-
E1 5c 1
269 Slow Motion VS 4b 9
270 One Scream's Enough
-
7c * 11
271 One Scream's Enough Direct
-
8a 2
272 Edgemaster E6 6b *** 9
273 Eliminate Master E5 6c * 1
274 Padansac E2 5c ** 233
275 Just So E5 5c * 15
276 The Quiet Mind
-
E6 6a/b 7
277 Solution Pollution E5 6a 11
278 Feed Your Head (Eclipsed) E7 6b 2
279 Partial Eclipse E4 6b/c * 15
280 Stretcher E3 6c 4
281 Simian HVS 5a * 397
282 Humdinger Jury
-
E4 6b 3
283 Daydream VS 5a * 504
284 Hi, how are you? VS 5a * 14
285 Zebedee
-
HVS 5a 56
286 Don't Slip
-
E5 6a * 37
287 The Aardvark and the Ferret E6 6b 22
288 SOS E4 5c 64
  Idleburger Buttress Area
290 Syph
-
S 358
291 Idleburger Buttress VD * 749
292 Tigger HS 4a 31
293 Smoove Groove
-
E5 6a * 56
294 The Independent Route E7 6b 12
295 5b Groove E3 5b 108
296 Floating Voter VS 4c * 546
297 5b Wall E4 5c 95
298 RG Traverse f6B+ 20
299 Jasper HVS 5b * 329
300 Jasper's Roof
-
E2 5c 2
301 Jumping Carrots
-
VS 5a 211
302 Jasper Carrott E2 6a 4
303 Casper VS 4c 5
304 Jumping Beans E2 5b 26
  The Mesa
306 Flash Gordon Light HVS 5a 2
307 Flash Gordon's Trip to Mars
-
E4 6a 17
308 King of the Impossible
-
E5 6b  
309 Anorexic Little Weirdo
-
E1 5c 17
310 The Bulimic Finish
-
E1 5c 5
311 Hands Up Who Wants to Die?
-
E3 5b 7
312 Flash Harry
-
HVS 4c 9
313 Another Little Number
-
E1 5b 14
314 Imensa
-
E2 5b 1
  New Quarry
316 For the Love of Ivy
-
VS 4c 2
317 Men Talking Goats 5c 64
318 Agua Colorado
-
E3 5c 12
319 Skulking Agent 7a+ * 4
320 Bulking Agent 7b+ 28
321 Bitter and Twisted 7a+ 188
322 Bitter and Twisted Traverse f7B 17
323 Dinosaur Beach 6b+ * 255
324 Jurassic Lark
-
6b+ 106
325 Brundle-fly Fusion
-
E3 5b 6
326 Ska is the Limit
-
E3 5c  
327 Fry Crispin Fry
-
E3 5b * 3
328 Sand Sapphire
-
E4 5c  
329 The Harry Brown Start
-
E4 6a  
330 Combined Tactics
-
E3 5c 3
331 Zildjan E4 6a * 3
332 Paiste 2002 7a * 139
333 Cymbeline 6c+ 79
334 Cymbal the Pun
-
E4 5c 3
335 The Echo
-
E2 5c 11
336 Full Metal Cymbal 6b+ 132
337 Brutal Dub 6c+ ** 175
338 Ready and Waiting 7a+ * 85
339 The Fury
-
7b 38
340 Product of an Unsound Mind
-
E5 6b 4
341 Exhumation E5 6a * 15
342 A Drop in the Ocean of Decay 6c+ * 44
343 Manoir de Kerlut E3 6a 21
344 Mensa
-
XS 5c 1
345 Crowhurst's Folly
-
XS 5c/6a  
346 Shiva
-
XS 5b  
347 The Happy Trundlers
-
XS 5a 3
348 Body Bag
-
E3 5b  
349 Bushmen Don't Surf 6b ** 261
350 Bushmen... (Chepstow Zombie Finish) 6b ** 165
351 System Z
-
E1 5a 12
352 Finish of '68
-
XS 5a  
353 Motivated Thinking E2 5b 3
354 Just This Once E3 5b 1
355 Quit Talking and Start Chalking E3 5c 16
356 No Crag for Old Men 6b ** 242
357 No CSC 6b 32
358 En Trend 6b * 160
359 No Strange Delight E3 5c * 32
360 Stammheim 6b * 236
361 Badder Beginning E4 6a 1
362 The Gobbler
-
E2 5b 16
363 Dependency
-
E4 5c  
364 Van Dieman's Land
-
E3 5c * 8
365 Night of the Comic Dead HVS 5a * 70
366 Pastiche HVS 5a * 36
367 Fat, Tall and Small HVS 5a 28
368 Heartbeat City E1 5b * 41
369 Shale We Dance? XS 5b 1
370 Love and Affection
-
E2 5c * 12
371 Sugar and Spice
-
E1 5b 16
372 Puppydog Tails E2 5b * 10
373 End of the Line? E1 5b 17
374 Spleen Fury and the Rockheads
-
E2 5c 4
375 Private and Confidential
-
E2 5b * 11
376 The New Quarrymen XS 5b  
377 Act of Faith
-
E3 5b 1
378 God 6c 53
379 Blasphemy
-
E1 5a 2
380 Urban Myth
-
E2 5a 4
381 JHC
-
E2 5b  
382 Pumping Station
-
VS 1
383 XK V8
-
VS  
  Traverses
385 Loony Tunes 6c+ 2
386 The Cancerous Tropic E3 5c 1
387 Made for Fashion E2 5c 1
388 The New New Quarry Traverse none 5c 117
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer richsmithinbristol