Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 373
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 30m a.s.l
Faces SW

View Stats

Dan Donovan on Arms Race (E4 5c) Avon Gorge © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Quarried limestone, generally sound. Protection tends to be sparse. Wall is a real sun trap allowing for year-round climbing. Mainly multi-pitch routes up to about 90 metres. In the summer, escape up to the Downs and the waiting ice cream van.

As of 25 March 2017, there has been a serious rockfall. The area affected is from Morpheus to SOS, particularly around the tree belay above Nightmare. There is still a quantity of loose rock and loose blocks in the area. This area should be treated with caution for the time being. There may be some loose material still in place so take care.

Topo for New Quarry can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17d7bTU2ONVSSMPus5tONyydN2QSNMZOq?usp=sharing

Approach notes

Either scramble down from the Downs, or park the car at the car park at the bottom of Sea Walls, straight off the A4. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avon Gorge (2017)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Sorry for any inconvenience caused, but UBES will be running "intro to climbing" days on the 30th of September and the 1st of October at Right Wing, and we expect a large volume of people to attend.
AWalker96 - 06/Sep/17
Several incidents of rock thrown from the top of the crag recently. Please be careful if climbing here and keep your eyes out for people acting suspiciously above.
Digga - 24/Jul/17
Several incidents of rock thrown from the top of the crag recently. Be careful and keep your eyes out if climbing here.
Digga - 24/Jul/17
Please be careful climbing around the central section near the car park due to rockfall from Morpheus (I would advise not climbing until the BMC have had a chance to clear the site of debris): https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=660803
JakeBest - 26/Mar/17
Scrubbed up Midnight Express, To be or not to Bolt and Tunnel vision over the last couple of days. Bit of chalk on them as well so prime for any budding onsighters.
remus - 11/May/14
Watch out for goats atop the crag - they occasionally knock a stone down
clams - 29/May/13
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Unknown Area
  Unknown Wall
3 The Halcyon Days of the Bourgeoisie E3 6a 16
4 Spool to Tape
-
E1 5c 13
5 Quietly Confident
-
E2 6a 1
6 Hard Labour
-
E1 5a 4
7 Aasvogel VS 4c 18
8 Curtain Call
-
E2 5c 2
9 Wintersol E2 5b * 68
10 Stage Fright
-
E2 5c 4
11 Desecrator HVS 5a * 215
12 Klib
-
E3 6a 3
13 Klib (Cave Start)
-
E3 6a  
14 Castillos des Arenas
-
E3 5c  
15 Chalk and Cheese
-
E4 5c 1
16 The Bilk E4 5c * 19
17 The Blik E3 5b ** 75
18 Men of the World E5 6a 5
19 Appendix E4 6a 1
20 Urban Gorilla
-
E3 5c * 16
21 Urban Gorilla Direct
-
E4 6a 1
22 Unknown Wall VS 4c ** 438
23 Unknown Wall Direct
-
HVS 4c 1
24 Unknown Slab
-
E2 5c 2
25 The Orang Outang out of Jungle Book E3 6c 2
  The Exploding Galaxy Wall
27 Reckless
-
E4 6a 1
28 This Flight Tonight E5 6a  
29 Dragon E3 5c ** 25
30 The Real St Werburghs E4 6b/c  
31 Unknown Pleasures E6 6b 2
32 Unknown Pleasures (Final Pitch) E3 5c *** 6
33 Amanita Muscarina E4 6a *** 82
34 Psychopath Way E6 6b *  
35 Hammer Horror E4 6a ** 8
36 Zombie Nation E5 6a  
37 Yellow Edge E3 5c *** 254
38 Quip U for Leisure
-
E3 5c 3
39 Captain Swing E3 5c ** 54
40 The Haystack E3 5c * 12
41 The Imploding Galaxy E5 6a/b * 3
42 Tour de France E6 6b ** 15
43 Was It You? 7c+ ** 13
44 It Wasn't Me E6 6c ** 2
45 Duncan Goes to Clevedon
-
E4 6b * 1
  Unknown Buttress
47 Unknown Gully
-
HVS 5a 30
48 Take Five E2 5b 8
49 Hang Ten E3 5c * 10
50 Smog of Things
-
E6 6b *  
51 The Pusher E2 5b 9
52 New Horizons E3 5c ** 105
53 Superstition
-
E5 6a 3
54 Poked Off
-
E6 6a 4
55 Hocus Pocus E4 6a ** 52
56 Conjuring Trick
-
E5 6a 2
57 M2 E1 5b * 230
58 M1 E1 5b ** 524
59 Motorway Madness E4 6a * 18
60 Electra Glide Direct Start
-
E4 6a/b 1
61 Electra Glide E4 6a * 10
62 Ladder of Desire E3 5c *** 174
63 Cuban Eyes
-
E5 6b * 10
64 The Rebel Yell
-
E6 6b 3
65 Pigeon's Nest E3 6a 27
66 Crown of Thorns E7 6c 1
67 I'm 55 E6 6c * 2
68 Non-stick E2 6a 14
69 The Enchanted Gordon E6 7a * 3
70 Slap Stick E3 6b 6
71 Jimmy Lowe E5 6c 1
72 Make It Up as You Go Along
-
E2 5a 1
  Upper Wall
74 Straight and Narrow
-
E5 6a 1
75 Them E3 6a *** 177
76 Keep on Going
-
E4 6b 1
77 Already Gone E5 6a * 13
78 Already Gone Direct Start
-
E6 5c  
79 Rising Sun
-
E6 6a  
80 Solar Power E4 6b ** 21
81 Slender Norris
-
E5 6c 10
82 Big Wednesday
-
E4 6b 10
83 New Horizons II E2 5c ** 556
84 An Illusion of Love
-
E6 6b 1
85 Lost Illusions E5 6b ** 49
86 Bold as Love E6 6b ** 36
87 Mirage E3 6a ** 247
88 Raindoctor
-
E5 6b 1
89 Arms Race E4 5c *** 282
90 Street Life E5 6b 23
91 Living on the Skyline
-
E7 6c  
92 Low Profile E5 6b *** 85
93 Low Police Profile
-
E6 6b 5
94 Higher Profile
-
E6 6b  
95 Us E2 5b * 181
96 What about Me? E2 5b 58
97 Um Bongo E6 6c * 11
98 Rancho Cucamonga E3 5c * 280
99 All Hail the Underdog E5 6a 2
100 Banshee E2 5c * 465
101 Who Me?
-
E4 5b 38
102 The Prince 8a+ 10
103 Peace * f7A+ ** 1
104 Virginia Giuffre * f6C * 2
105 The Pauper * f6C * 1
106 Fingertip Crack * f7A+ *  
  Chocoholics Wall
108 Stayin' Alive E4 5c * 8
109 Flexi-time E3 5c 3
110 Shake-time E7 6b 1
111 Banshee II
-
E1 4c 2
112 Chocoholic E5 6a 3
113 Big Bertha E1 5a 5
  Unknown Area Traverses
115 Red Hot and Chaffeur Driven
-
E4 5c 1
116 Bop till You Drop
-
E3 5c  
117 Hot Air & Chasin' the Dragon
-
E2 5b * 11
118 Altostratus
-
E4 5c * 3
119 Level Headed
-
E7 6c *  
120 Zero Option
-
E5 6b * 1
121 The Ramp Challenge E6 6b *** 1
  Sea Walls
  The Problem Pages
124 Pilgrim's Progress E6 6c 2
125 Sex Symbol for Bunty E6 7a 2
126 The Metaphysical Flake
-
E5 6b 2
127 For Richard
-
E1 5a 6
128 My Ancestors
-
E4 6a 2
129 Nuts in May
-
E5 6b 1
130 Pinball Wizard E2 5c 6
131 Statement of Youth
-
E6 6c 1
Climb name Grade
132 Slippery People
-
E3 6b 10
133 Calcinogenesis
-
E4 5c 3
134 Ataloss
-
E2 5c 1
135 Dirty Stop Out
-
E3 6a/b 1
136 Vertically Limited
-
VS 4c 2
137 Irish Girl
-
E4 6b 1
138 Death by Chocolate
-
E4 6c  
139 In Loving Memory E5 6b  
140 Dead Dreams Fly Flags
-
E5 6b  
141 Dark Crystal
-
E3 6b 12
142 The Howling Tombird
-
VS 4b 6
  Academic Buttress
144 Kitnova Park
-
HVS 5a 3
145 The Minute Waltz E6 6c 1
146 Bathos
-
E2 5c  
147 Eros
-
HS 4b 26
148 Pathos E2 6a * 11
149 Ares E5 6c * 1
150 Academic 8a 70
151 Academic Direct 8b 3
152 Senile Decay
-
E2 5c 1
153 Mellow Yellow
-
HVS 5b 1
154 Shiner
-
6b+ 2
  The Construction Site
156 Happy 'cause I'm Going Home
-
HVS 5a 1
157 Serenity Crack
-
E1 5a 3
158 Fit to Drott
-
E5 6a  
159 Earthmover
-
E2 5c 1
160 Hymac
-
E3 5c  
161 Overkill is Under-rated
-
E3 6a  
162 JCB
-
E3 5c  
163 Eric Exsykes E5 6c 1
164 Hatti Jacques E2 5c 5
165 Sod's Law
-
E5 5c 1
  Railed-Off Cave Area
167 Entrail HVS 5a 35
168 Just Searing Away 7b+ * 12
169 Oil on Canvas
-
E3 6a 14
170 Eleven Years On
-
E3 6a 7
171 Thirty-One Years
-
E3 6b  
172 The Pact
-
E5 6b  
173 Thanatos
-
HVS 5b * 74
174 Intestines
-
E4 6b 4
175 Cause without a Rebel
-
E5 5c 4
176 One Rawl for All E3 5c * 41
177 Midnight Express
-
E6 6a ** 14
178 Marvin the Marmot
-
E6 6a  
179 To Be Is Not to Bolt E7 6b 12
180 Train in the Distance E6 6c 1
181 Tunnel Vision E4 6c 11
182 The Housing (Cave Dwellers) Act 1000 BC E4 5c 11
183 The Beat
-
E5 6b 5
184 Starless and Bible Black E5 6b * 1
185 Small or Nothing
-
E5 5c * 6
186 Whizz for Atoms
-
E4 6b * 5
187 Paradiddle
-
E3 5c 7
188 Done Years Ago
-
E2 5c 6
189 Slurp
-
HVS 4b 38
190 5/8 Lick
-
E2 5b 1
191 Leap Year with Larry
-
E3 5b 1
192 Lost Atoms
-
E5 6a 5
193 The Melancholy of Departure
-
E5 6a  
194 Wretch
-
E2 5a 12
195 Puke Direct Start
-
E1 5a 3
196 S'All Over
-
E5 5c 6
197 Puke
-
HVS 5a * 197
  Upper Terrace
199 Particles
-
f6C+ 5
200 The Cover Up E5 6b 1
201 Indecent Exposure E2 5c * 48
202 Wobbly Bits
-
E3 5c 1
203 The Trembling E5 6a 1
204 Kiev E2  
205 Tremors E4 6b 5
206 Shakin' All Over E5 6b 1
207 False Alarms E3 6a * 9
208 Gold Star E3 5c 10
  Central Section
210 Quick Flash E5 5c 2
211 The Featherless Biped E4 6a ** 17
212 Hugh's Groove E1 5a ** 20
213 Bisector Wall E4 6a 14
214 Exterminating Angel E3 5b * 30
215 Eeny meeny miny mo, this looks serious, don't let go!
-
E4 6a 2
216 Who's Wall?
-
E4 6a * 10
217 Defining Limits E6 6c * 2
218 Terror Firma E5 6a * 1
219 Comic Relief
-
E2 6a 9
220 Pongo Sid Chilli E3 6a 4
221 Gronk VS 4c ** 1056
222 Morpheus HVD ** 1359
223 Bastardized E4 6a 1
224 Death or Dishonour
-
E3 5c 6
225 Anything but Over
-
E3 5b 1
226 Exterminating 5b Leaders
-
E3 5b 3
227 Sleepwalk S 4a ** 1022
228 Mobius HVS 4c 51
229 Jon's Dyno * V4 6
230 Nightcap HVS 5b 60
231 Nitecap Start
-
V1 35
232 To Be Taken Quietly in Sleep
-
E6 6a  
  Right Wing
234 Pants Choice
-
f6A 14
235 King Choice f6B 11
236 Introvert's Choice
-
f6C 2
237 Jon's Dyno
-
f6B+ 69
238 One for the Road
-
f6C+ 2
239 PG Tips V6 5
240 The Arête f6C+ 67
241 The Arête, Sit-start V7 * 13
242 The Squirrel's Heart f7B+ * 4
243 Crystal Tips V8 7
244 Most Choice E3 6b 36
245 The Choice Traverse f7A 6
246 Connoisseur's Choice E2 6b 102
247 Connoisseur's Choice, Sit-start f7A+ 5
248 Punk's Choice E5 6c 5
249 Critic's Choice E5 6b * 34
250 The Tin Drum HVS 5a 27
251 Ffoeg's Folly E2 5c ** 299
252 Ffoeg's Folly (P1) HVS 5a 282
253 Coyote Ugly E2 5c 3
254 Last Chance E4 6b 6
255 Last Slip E3 5c *** 92
256 Last Slip Direct Start
-
E3 5b 54
257 Gymslip
-
E4 6b 45
258 Gymslip Traverse V3 17
259 Little Nedwin E3 5b 5
260 Operational Reasons E2 5b 16
261 Shits and Giggles E7 6c 1
262 Every Smile You Fake E6 6b 2
Climb name Grade
263 Fast Grip
-
E2 5b * 107
264 Vulcan Death Grip E4 5c 3
265 Chameleon Feet
-
E4 6b 2
266 Pins and Needles E7 6b/c 1
267 Unusual Places to Visit Before You Die
-
E4 5c  
268 Oscar
-
E3 5b 7
269 Lord Bafta
-
E3 5b  
270 Nightmare S 4a ** 1149
271 Nightmare Direct Finish VS 4c 98
272 Before Bloc
-
E1 5c 3
273 Slow Motion VS 4b 13
274 One Scream's Enough
-
7c * 11
275 One Scream's Enough Direct
-
8a 2
276 Edgemaster E6 6b *** 11
277 Eliminate Master E5 6c * 1
278 Padansac E2 5c ** 246
279 Just So E5 5c * 15
280 The Quiet Mind
-
E6 6a/b 7
281 Solution Pollution E5 6a 11
282 Feed Your Head (Eclipsed) E7 6b 2
283 Partial Eclipse E4 6b/c * 15
284 Stretcher E3 6c 5
285 Simian HVS 5a * 414
286 Humdinger Jury
-
E4 6b 4
287 Daydream VS 5a * 544
288 Hi, how are you? VS 5a * 14
289 Zebedee
-
HVS 5a 58
290 Don't Slip
-
E5 6a * 40
291 The Aardvark and the Ferret E6 6b 23
292 SOS E4 5c 68
  Idleburger Buttress Area
294 Syph
-
S 371
295 Idleburger Buttress VD * 807
296 Tigger HS 4a 40
297 Smoove Groove
-
E5 6a * 61
298 The Independent Route E7 6b 12
299 5b Groove E3 5b 111
300 Floating Voter VS 4c * 574
301 5b Wall E4 5c 98
302 RG Traverse f6B+ 22
303 Jasper HVS 5b * 344
304 Jasper's Roof
-
E2 5c 6
305 Jumping Carrots
-
VS 5a 220
306 Jasper Carrott E2 6a 6
307 Casper VS 4c 5
308 Jumping Beans E2 5b 27
  The Mesa
310 Flash Gordon Light HVS 5a 2
311 Flash Gordon's Trip to Mars
-
E4 6a 18
312 King of the Impossible
-
E5 6b  
313 Anorexic Little Weirdo
-
E1 5c 19
314 The Bulimic Finish
-
E1 5c 5
315 Hands Up Who Wants to Die?
-
E3 5b 7
316 Flash Harry
-
HVS 4c 11
317 Another Little Number
-
E1 5b 16
318 Imensa
-
E2 5b 1
  New Quarry
320 For the Love of Ivy
-
VS 4c 2
321 Men Talking Goats 5c 74
322 Agua Colorado
-
E3 5c 12
323 Skulking Agent 7a+ * 4
324 Bulking Agent 7b+ 28
325 Bitter and Twisted 7a+ 192
326 Bitter and Twisted Traverse f7B 17
327 Dinosaur Beach 6b+ * 274
328 Jurassic Lark
-
6b+ 116
329 Brundle-fly Fusion
-
E3 5b 6
330 Ska is the Limit
-
E3 5c  
331 Fry Crispin Fry
-
E3 5b * 3
332 Sand Sapphire
-
E4 5c  
333 The Harry Brown Start
-
E4 6a  
334 Combined Tactics
-
E3 5c 3
335 Zildjan E4 6a * 3
336 Paiste 2002 7a * 146
337 Cymbeline 6c+ 85
338 Cymbal the Pun
-
E4 5c 3
339 The Echo
-
E2 5c 14
340 Full Metal Cymbal 6b+ 147
341 Brutal Dub 6c+ ** 187
342 Ready and Waiting 7a+ * 93
343 The Fury
-
7b 40
344 Product of an Unsound Mind
-
E5 6b 4
345 Exhumation E5 6a * 17
346 A Drop in the Ocean of Decay 6c+ * 48
347 Manoir de Kerlut E3 6a 22
348 Mensa
-
XS 5c 1
349 Crowhurst's Folly
-
XS 5c/6a  
350 Shiva
-
XS 5b  
351 The Happy Trundlers
-
XS 5a 4
352 Body Bag
-
E3 5b  
353 Bushmen Don't Surf 6b ** 292
354 Bushmen... (Chepstow Zombie Finish) 6b ** 176
355 System Z
-
E1 5a 12
356 Finish of '68
-
XS 5a  
357 Motivated Thinking E2 5b 5
358 Just This Once E3 5b 1
359 Quit Talking and Start Chalking E3 5c 16
360 No Crag for Old Men 6b ** 272
361 No CSC 6b 36
362 En Trend 6b * 181
363 No Strange Delight E3 5c * 33
364 Stammheim 6b * 252
365 Badder Beginning E4 6a 1
366 The Gobbler
-
E2 5b 18
367 Dependency
-
E4 5c  
368 Van Dieman's Land
-
E3 5c * 8
369 Night of the Comic Dead HVS 5a * 78
370 Pastiche HVS 5a * 42
371 Fat, Tall and Small HVS 5a 31
372 Heartbeat City E1 5b * 48
373 Shale We Dance? XS 5b 1
374 Love and Affection
-
E2 5c * 13
375 Sugar and Spice
-
E1 5b 18
376 Puppydog Tails E2 5b * 10
377 End of the Line? E1 5b 19
378 Spleen Fury and the Rockheads
-
E2 5c 4
379 Private and Confidential
-
E2 5b * 12
380 The New Quarrymen XS 5b  
381 Act of Faith
-
E3 5b 1
382 God 6c 55
383 Blasphemy
-
E1 5a 2
384 Urban Myth
-
E2 5a 4
385 JHC
-
E2 5b 2
386 Pumping Station
-
VS 1
387 XK V8
-
VS  
  Traverses
389 Loony Tunes 6c+ 2
390 The Cancerous Tropic E3 5c 1
391 Made for Fashion E2 5c 1
392 The New New Quarry Traverse none 5c 124
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer richsmithinbristol