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Climbs 17
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1894m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

Chöpfenberg, 1894m, is the peak at the western end of the ridge line that forms the northern boundary of the beautiful (if swampy in parts) valley Schwändital running east-west from, roughly speaking, the town of Näfels (on the west bank of the river Linth, at the entrance to Linthtal, in Kanton Glarus) to Innerthal (on the east shore of the Wägitalersee, Kanton Schwyz). The companion peaks to the east are Brüggler (Brückler) and Wageten. The southerly bounding ridge of the valley is formed by the increasingly notable Bärenspoolspitz, Tierberg and Bockmattlistock (before it curves southwards above the aforementioned east shore of the Wägitalersee).

The normal route to the Chöpfenberg summit through the south flank is graded T4 in the SAC Wanderskala due to three steep sections equipped with chains to aid progress, quite necessarily in at least one instance, and some other moderately steep and exposed ground. The grading translation here to a grade II scramble reflects the competence required, if not the purity of the scrambling experience.

A handfull of other more demanding routes to the summit exist, including a rock climb on the south ridge (4c, French) and the somewhat vegetated (and vertiginous in parts) east ridge (PD, French / WS, German).

The north wall is home to a few bolted multipitch routes up to 7 pitches, some requiring gear, in the grade range 6a to 7c.

The SAC tourenportal has some freely available infomation: https://www.sac-cas.ch/de/huetten-und-touren/sac-tourenportal/choepfenberg-385/alpinklettern/

Approach notes

The routes can be approached from Innerthal, where the shortest approach is from the path and parking further south along the lake at pt.920/921m where the Laülibach comes down to the lake (more parking further south past the restraunt), or from the east via the mountain road from Näfels as far as the parking (and tiny campsite) at Matt,1231m.

The approach from Innerthal has the benefit of passing right under the imposing 400m wall of the Bockmattli Grosser Turm.

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Climbs at this crag

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