Climbs 40
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 335m a.s.l
Faces S
Onde Sensueile - crux move © RD
Crag features
Spread over a length of 150 m and 25 to 30 m high, the Devens cliff is located in the commune of Méthamis, in the geological ensemble of the Gorges de la Nesque, classified Natura 2000 for its exceptional fauna and flora.
Over 50 routes from 5C+ to 7B+. Average height of the routes 25 to 30 metres in a sumptuous natural setting overlooking the Nesque gorges.
South-east, south-west orientations.
This cliff is a rock environment of high ecological value, home to many heritage species such as the Phoenician juniper, capable of developing for hundreds of years in rocky faults, or the Eurasian eagle owl, a rare and protected nocturnal raptor.
Thus, faced with these issues, and to ensure the tranquility of the birds during the nesting period, the practice of climbing is prohibited from February 1 to July 31.
Topo displayed at the base of crag, or available here.
The grading on the local topo is extremely tough - in most cases add at least a full grade to come somewhere close to a realistic indicator of the difficulties.
An intersting article Methamis – Methamis – Gorges de la Nesque
Approach notes
Once at Methamis, take the narrow road, Chem de la Nesque, down into the gorge of the river Nesque. When the tarmac runs out park on the left n a wide area. Follow the river bed on foot until you reach a bend and the option of 4 footpaths. Follow the path to Villes sur Auzon and Le Grand Corps going up the wide track and bending right. When the path splits follow the right branch along the top of the gorge edge and past some ruined walls. This path eventually turns left away from the gorge at a cairn. Behind the cain is a narrow path. Take this and you will reach the first fixed sign. Step around this and continue to the base of the cliff. Approx. just over a 1 mile.
Restricted Access
Climbing is prohibited due to nesing birds from February 1st until July 31st
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
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