UKC

Climbs 69
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 1048m a.s.l
Faces NE

Top of Penguin Gully III © Karl Atherton

Crag features

This massive mountain has many corries providing some of the best winter climbing in the far north.

Routes listed right to left as as you walk up the glen.

Try Glean na Sguair and Corrie Ghrand (NC268800)

for starters

Must Do :

Ice Bomb V/VI

Penguin Gully III

Approach notes

Posssible access restrictions : use guide book

and consult locally.

Remote.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Beinn Dearg summit
-
summit 157
  Diollaid a' Mhill Bhric - Gleann Sguaib
3 Just Dandy
-
II  
4 Beano Buttress
-
III 4  
5 Waiting For Nemo II/III  
6 WhatawaytospendEaster I 1
7 Garvachy Road
-
II  
8 White settlers gully
-
III  
9 Bonus
-
II * 1
10 Rev Ian Paisley Memorial Gully
-
I 2
11 The Pastor Glass Reconciliation Gully IV **  
12 Storming Stormont III 3  
13 Pickwick
-
II  
14 Orange Edge
-
III  
15 Orangeman's Gully
-
III ** 8
16 Red Handed
-
III  
17 No Falls Road IV 5 ** 1
18 Emerald Edge
-
IV 4 *  
19 Emerald Gully
-
IV *** 27
20 Jewel in the crown
-
VI 6 **  
21 Archway
-
IV 3
22 Edgeway
-
IV 4  
23 Wee freeze gully
-
IV 4  
24 The centre party
-
III  
25 Fenian Gully
-
IV *** 25
Climb name Grade
26 No surrender
-
III 1
27 Papists passage
-
II 2
28 The wall of retribution
-
IV 4 * 2
29 Tower of Babel
-
VD * 6
30 Tower of Babel (Winter) IV 6 ** 3
  West Butress
32 Toffs on the Rocks III 3  
33 Inverlael Gully II * 8
34 Gastronomical III 5 **  
35 Gastronomes Gully I 2
36 Snowseekers Allowance II 2
37 Gastronomes Gully Icefall Start IV 4 3
38 The silken ladder
-
III  
39 The Ice Hose IV ** 14
40 Eigerwanderer
-
III  
41 West Buttress
-
IV * 1
42 Penguin Gully
-
III 4 *** 113
43 Wind pipe
-
V 6  
44 Vanishing Shelf IV 4 * 2
45 Ice Hose - RH Icefall finish * V 5 *** 2
  Coire Ghranda - Outer crag
47 Left icefall
-
IV 4  
48 Central icefall
-
IV 5  
49 Right icefall
-
IV 4  
Climb name Grade
  Coire Ghranda - Lower crag
51 Stage Left II * 1
52 Yon spoot
-
III  
53 Rogue trader
-
IV 4  
54 Grotto gully
-
IV 5 ** 1
55 Lillehammer
-
IV 4 *  
56 Slush puppy
-
IV 3 **  
57 The snake
-
IV 4  
58 The portcullis
-
IV 5  
59 Bells route
-
S  
  Coire Ghranda - Upper crag
61 Upper class corner
-
III  
62 Snort trail
-
IV 4 ** 1
63 Traumatic interference
-
V 4  
64 Tickled rib
-
VI 7 *  
65 The grander icefall
-
IV 4 *  
66 The Rebirth of Cool VII 7 ** 1
67 Ice bomb
-
VII 7 ***  
68 The big chill
-
VII 7 **  
69 Cold War
-
VI 6 *  
70 Body freeze
-
V 5 *  
71 Campbell's corner
-
III  
72 Inverlael Buttress
-
II 1
73 Left Hand Route II/III 1
74 Ice Bomb with The Mind Bomb Finish V *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Daniel Sutherland