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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 113
Rocktype Conglomerate
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Enjoying the September sun on The Haven VS 4c, Sarclet © raymond67

Crag features

An amazing area of Sandstone conglomerate offering superb climbing in a stunning setting.

Approach notes

Approach by following the fence line directly East from the Mains Of Ulbster farm, crossing the small burn by the ruin. The high headland on your right as you approach the cliffs is approx above Tilted Ledge area, which can be easily identified from the cliff top to the North. The majority of routes require abseil approches.

Some of the best rock I have ever climbed on. Glorious.
Ian Jones - 13/Jun/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Tilted Ledge
2 Fishpaste Breakfast
-
VD 1
3 Fishnet Necklace
-
VD * 9
4 Oblimov
-
HS 4b * 4
5 Yawn
-
VS 4c * 4
6 Pullin' on Puddin' E2 5b ** 9
7 Birthday Boy E3 5c ** 6
8 The Ogee VS 4c ** 15
9 Suckin' On Divids
-
HVS 5a * 7
10 Wicker Man
-
VS 4c * 1
11 Conglomerati VS 4c * 14
12 Blackcurrent
-
HVS 4c * 1
13 Bibble
-
VD 1
14 Hare of the Dowg
-
D  
15 Bobble
-
S  
16 Bod
-
VS 4c 1
  Heithe Buttress
18 Lithium Fry-up
-
HVS 5a ** 1
19 Hats Off to The Catman HVS 5a ** 2
20 Kenneth HVS 5a * 2
21 Donnie Darko
-
VS 4b  
22 Frank The Rabbit
-
VS 4b  
23 The Sad Lives of the Rabbit people
-
VS 4c  
24 Chasmic Farce
-
S 4b  
25 Harvestmen are not Spiders
-
VD  
26 Heithe Cliff
-
S 4a  
27 Shedmania
-
S 4a  
  Heithe Headland
29 Tug of the Tide
-
S *  
30 Kaleidoscope
-
HVS 5a *  
  Surfer Buttress
32 Saga Saga * E4 6a **  
33 Silver Surfer HVS 5a ** 17
34 Buoy Zone E2 5b * 1
35 Seal of Approval * E2 5b ** 2
36 Cubby Roo HVS 5a *** 5
37 Pension Day HVS 4c * 1
  Hidden Bay
39 Hard of Herring
-
S 4b  
40 On the Rebound
-
HVS 5a *  
  Djapana Buttress
42 Arch Rival
-
HVS 5a *  
43 Like it or Limpet
-
VD  
44 Northern Alliance
-
E3 5c *** 4
Climb name Grade
45 Djapana
-
E3 5c *** 2
46 Unnamed 3 * E3 6a **  
  Big Buttress South-East Face
48 The Orchid Hunter
-
E3 5c ** 3
49 The Adventures Of Baron Von Midgehousen
-
E1 5c * 3
50 Time Bandit
-
E4 6a *** 3
51 The Haar Bringer E4 5c *** 2
52 Groove Armada VS 4c *** 46
53 The Flow E2 5b *  
54 The Sarclet Pimpernel E1 5a *** 58
  Big Buttress North-East Face
56 Edge Over The Sea E1 5b ** 2
57 Walking on Water E2 5c *** 15
58 Crypt Robber E2 5c *** 4
59 A Paddler's Tale E4 5c *** 9
60 Big Banana Feet E1 5b ** 6
61 Skinny Malinky Long Legs
-
HVS 5a ** 1
62 Silver Darlings
-
E1 5b  
63 The God of Suspended Sediments * HVS 5a ***  
64 Rune Magick * HVS 5a ***  
  Smelly Bay
66 Tranquility Arete
-
VS 4c *  
67 Moonstone
-
S 4b  
  Back Wall of Cave Bay / Lummer's Geo
69 Another Day In The Office E1 5a *** 7
70 The Ugly Bug Ball E1 5b *** 2
  Occum's Buttress
72 Thrumster Regatta E1 5b ** 5
73 Occum's Razor E4 6a *** 8
74 The Haven VS 4c ** 14
75 Just Visiting VS 4c ** 4
  cave bay area
77 Roof And Ready
-
VS 4c  
78 Sparklet
-
VD  
79 Ruff Arete
-
S 4a  
  Pudding Stone Buttress
81 From Cockleroy to Cockles, Ahoy!
-
VS 5a 1
82 Not Big And Not Clever VS 5a 5
83 Cross Waves
-
HVS 5a 1
84 Trevor, I can see your shoes from here VS 4c ** 5
85 Sweet Sixteen S 4b ** 8
86 Dynamo Thrum
-
E5 6a **  
87 Breakfast With Squirrels E1 5b * 1
88 Grap HVS 5a ** 1
Climb name Grade
89 Oscillator E2 6a *  
90 Queen's Mute Termination E2 5b ** 3
91 The Censor
-
E1 5a *  
92 Nice One
-
VS 4c **  
93 Pudding Stone low traverse none 5c 1
  Oily Buttress
95 That Petrel Emotion
-
E1 5b *  
96 Cold Halo
-
VS 4b  
97 Oiled Up
-
VS 4b  
98 I Heard It Down The Pub
-
S 4b  
99 I Saw it in a Picture
-
S 4a  
100 I Smelt it on the Breeze
-
S 4b  
  Black Lagoon
102 Sartorius Stretch
-
VS 4c *  
103 Nag's Head
-
HVS 5a *  
104 Geezer from the Black Lagoon
-
HVS 5a  
  First Bay
106 Black Pudding
-
HVS 4c  
107 Grey Guru S 4b *** 3
108 Reconciliation VD 1
109 Seek 'n' Seal
-
VS 4c  
110 In The Pinks S 4b * 1
  Second Bay
112 Seal Train
-
VS 4c  
113 Seal Latrine
-
VD 4b  
114 Gargle and Spit
-
HVS 5a  
115 Let them Eat Jelly Beans
-
S  
116 Rinse and Repeat
-
VS 4c ***  
  Split Rock
118 Remembrance of Fast Things
-
S 4b  
119 Terns Of Endearment
-
E1 5b *  
120 Madeleine
-
VS 4b  
121 Tern It Up
-
E1 5a  
122 Achtern
-
S 4a  
  Waterfall Stack
124 Waterfall Stack
-
HVS 4b  
125 The Patent
-
MS **  
126 Line of Sight * E4 6a **  
127 Stitch in Time * E2 5c ***  
128 Unnamed * E5 6b ***  
129 Unnamed 2 * E4 5c **  
130 Seal of Disapproval * E2 5b *  
131 Man or Mouse * E4 6a ***  
132 Gloup Issues * E1 5c **  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Liam Ingram