UKC

Climbs 31
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 9m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Castlesea Bay © C.MacLeod

Crag features

Castlesea Bay has a small selection of established red sandstone and conglomerate boulder problems in a beautiful and peaceful location. In addition to the climbing, the bay provides access to the sea, beach (both pebble & sand), surrounding cliffs and caves. Additionally, the bay is curved, and the main area faces southwest so it’s an ideal spot for a day of climbing combined with a day at the beach. The area is obviously tidal but most problems can still be accessed; nevertheless, it’s worthwhile visiting outside of high tide for ease and the full experience of everything the bay has to offer. 
 

The rock quality ranges from clean and solid to sandy and soft, and as the area is still very new and in development, please be careful when trying established or new boulder problems as everything still needs further cleaning. Additionally, strong winds can blow sand around which can land on holds that have been previously cleaned so it's worth taking a brush. Furthermore, there could be loose rock or falling pebbles from the above conglomerate so please take care. Taking a few pads is also highly recommended due to the problems ranging in height from 3-5m, the drop-off / downclimb style, and because landings are varied. Finally, all grades are just rough estimates for now until they see more repeats and become established.

Approach notes

Drive to Auchmithie - an old fishing port village in Angus & the birthplace of the ‘Smokie’ - and turn left just before The But 'n' Ben (a highly recommended restaurant & pub) to use the public car park. If there is no parking in the main area, try the road through the village (it’s a cul-de-sac, so at the far end just turn round and drive back) or park somewhere else respectfully. 
 

Once parked, walk back up the main road passing the bus stop and church, and on the left, there is a small path that goes round the edge of the field, first heading back towards the village but then swinging right along the clifftop towards a row of cottages; pass these and turn left to re-join the main coastal path then continue until Castlesea Bay comes into view. Access to the bay can be achieved by heading down some minor steep trails but the easiest way is to continue walking along the coastal path until Tanglehall cottages are reached, then turn left off the main path and head down a trail through Laverock Den (in summer both the steep trails and the den are quite overgrown so take care when heading down to the bay). The walk takes approximately 15-20 minutes overall. 

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