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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 96
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 318m a.s.l

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Daimon Beail on Who Sat on my Satsuma? (6a) at Masson Lees © Alan James

Crag features

Five main walls, three on the N and two on the S. N wall divided into three by a prominent arete at the end of a calcite wall, and a corner in the black face further along.

S wall is more broken with slabby climbing in the first section and a calcite wall in the second.

Approach notes

On the hills above Matlock; secluded and quiet.
See for access - note that the "broad entrance" to the dirt track on the left is a bit after the left turn off for Masson Leys farm, and has parking on the right hand side of the road, just before the road goes back to a very narrow single track again. Keep left over the gate and follow the ruts from the old quarrying lorries.

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Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks: (1995)
I was with my friends the first time last Friday from 11.00am till 16.00pm and was ok, we were climbing on left-hand walls. Walls were dry, the temperature was 13 degrees and a few times was the sun and I did not feel the wind. there were other 6 people climbing I recommend
issor46 - 25/Mar/19
Trees chopped down and a vehicle path made to the access the quarry. Signs that it is going to be filled in soon. Very sad if that's the case
Fraser kid - 08/May/18
Visited last week, lovely secluded climbing, clean, some parts overgrown. Some loose rock.
TT999 - 19/Aug/16
Very secluded but getting overgrown, quite a lot of seepage as it says in Rockfax. Plenty of loose rock so do be careful! We found the lines of the climbs and the positions of the blots somewhat confusing.
thecruxclimber - 19/Jun/16
Large rockfall last week at the Black Walls/White Walls transition area.
sammo247 - 31/Jul/15
Still a great area to climb! The only down side is there seems to be less people now climbing this area and the quarry is starting to become a bit over grown in places.
Climber1988 - 30/Jul/15
Climbed at Masson Lees Aug '11. Jonny pulled (key?) hold off 'In the pocket' which landed on his head. I dislodged massive block from 'Nice on Masson' which trashed shirt Jonny had left on ground. Big block came off arete at the start of 'Grand Theft Auto' which trashed Jonnys other shirt - ha! Enjoyed 'Long black veil' and nothing fell off. I won't be back.... Soph
soph - 26/Aug/11
I was referring to POCKET ROCKET.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Sun, 13th Sept 2009, PM: this morning this route "lost" a small but important foothold, left of the 5th bolt. Harder now, but by how much?? 6th bolt was loose.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Further to previous comments, downsides include a surprisingly large amount of seepage on the Black and RH Overhanging Walls, and a lot of reinforced / glued on / comfortised holds. A bit artificial but still more fun than the climbing wall. Bolting still very good!
Fiend - 20/Jul/09
..wall, I meant!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Well bolted routes on good rock; great motivation to climb higher grades and go back to the overhanging all!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Really quite good. Rock can be a bit dusty but the main N-facing wall has a lot to go out. Great view from the parking but not the quarry.
Fiend - 04/Jun/09
A great crag with a pleasant feel. Rock sometimes snappy but loads to go at in the 7s. Nice job.
DrGav - 30/May/09
For proper topo's to the crag go to
j_clark - 01/Jun/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Wake Up Wall
2 Wake Up Call 6b * 268
3 Crack o' Dawn 5a 286
4 Mourning Has Broken 6a+ 270
5 Slumberland 5a 318
6 Dawn's Chorus 4c 232
7 Wake Me Up Before You Go Go 4a 180
8 Oh To Lie In 5a 273
9 Sludge Money 4a 264
10 Five Years and Waiting 4a 184
  Red Wall
12 Auto Pilot 6c 91
13 Moov Over 6b * 297
14 Have A Cow 6a+ * 333
15 Udderley 5c 260
16 Featherlite Arete 6a 245
17 Red And Ribbed For Your Pleasure 6c * 407
18 Who Sat On My Satsuma? 6a * 1083
19 A Life Of Grime 6a * 958
20 Fun In The Sun 6a+ * 822
21 End o' Taffs Corner 4a * 285
22 The Chemistry Mates 3a * 159
23 Physics Too 6b+ 44
  Overhanging Wall
25 Reactn 6b+ 11
26 Java Script 7a * 4
27 In the Pocket 6c+ * 132
28 Pocket Rocket 6c * 544
29 Eye, Eye 6b+ * 843
30 Exorcise 7b * 120
31 Exo6 7a * 418
32 Bison Fute 7a+ * 107
33 Pierluigi Galena 7a * 53
34 Second Class Citizen 6c+ 13
35 Quatrieme Quartier 7a * 85
Climb name Grade
36 Handy Borehole 6c+ * 144
37 The Premier Club 7a+ * 52
38 The Masson Chronicles 7b * 20
39 The Pete Clark Diaries 7a * 27
40 Nice One Masson 7a * 177
41 Woof justice 7a+ * 44
42 Grand Theft Auto 7a * 28
  Black Wall
44 The Cows, The Cows 7a+ * 40
45 Masson Accomplished 7a * 59
46 Unveiled 7a 19
47 Seventh Time Lucky 7b * 12
48 Plucked 7b+ * 2
49 Never to Rise 7a+ * 37
50 Resurrection 7b+ ** 5
51 Long Black Veil 7a * 170
52 Fuck Your Gods 7a * 115
53 Cattle Mutilation Expedition 6c+ * 138
54 Masson Impossible 6c 21
55 The Numbers Game 6b 43
56 Lifelong Learning 5c 38
57 Closing Chapter 6b+ 32
58 Opening Salvo 6b+ 51
59 Last Offence 6b+ 40
60 Better Luck Next Time Steve 6b+ 17
  White Wall
62 Maitre D'hotel 6a 29
63 Major Dormo 5a 29
64 Four by Four 6c+ 1
65 Leap of Fete 7a 1
66 Tapering Out 7a 3
67 Last Orders 6c * 17
68 Smear for yer Beer 7b 2
69 Calling Time 7a+ * 6
70 Lager than Life 7b 2
Climb name Grade
71 Leffe and Out 6b+ 4
72 From Beer to Eternity 7a 5
73 The Crash Test Dummies 7a * 14
74 Bish, Bash, Bosch 6c * 23
75 Twist of Feet 7a+ * 11
76 Elbowed Out 6b * 52
77 Hilti Sound System 7a * 242
78 Forefinger Exercise 7a * 52
79 Piano Fingers 7a 20
80 Fill it in 6a 7
81 Final Dregs
6a 5
  Right-Hand Quarry Bay
83 The Doldrums 6b 2
84 Hole in the Wall 6c+ 1
85 Snapping Turtle 7a 6
  Dry Tooling Cave
87 The Warm-Up M6 * 122
88 The Tenuous Link 6c+ ** 79
89 Sub Rosa M10 * 70
90 Marginal Gains M11 ** 17
91 Sick Boy M9 ** 47
92 Heavens Above M7+ * 42
93 Featherlite Arete 6a 25
94 Substantial Losses M10 *** 13
95 Substantial Gains M11 *** 7
96 Sub rosa
A1 4
97 Marginal gains A2 4
98 Band of Brothers M12 *** 5
99 Marginal Cure M10+ 3
100 Band Aid A2 *** 2
101 Pointless link M7+ * 1
102 Hook me up M5+ ** 13
103 Chelly Express * M7 *** 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jondude