Climbs 158
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 297m a.s.l
Tool time © climber34neil
Crag features
Following the change in ownerhip in mid 2024, the access/shooting issues have been resolved. As ever, Please read and follow the parking advice below.
PARKING: There is a degree of tension in relation to parking, this has increased recently and there have been instances of damage to parked vehicles by annoyed locals. PLEASE CAR SHARE WHEREVER POSSIBLE - Plenty of parking is available on Matlock Spa Rd, Matlock DE4 3TA (opposite te Sainsbury's Petrol Station) IF YOU DO HAVE TO PARK AT THE CRAG, PLEASE PARK RESPONSIBLY AS DETALED ON THE BMC RAD
There is plenty parking at Bonsall in the village parking just past the cascades garden centre the walk in is really pleasant from here and only and extra 10 minutes.
Sport Climbing:
Five main walls, three on the N and two on the S. N wall divided into three by a prominent arete at the end of a calcite wall, and a corner in the black face further along. S wall is more broken with slabby climbing in the first section and a calcite wall in the second.
Dry Tooling:
The cave at the far (east) end of the quarry.
Approach notes
Following the change in ownerhip in mid 2024, the access/shooting issues have been resolved. As ever, Please read and follow the parking advice below.
PARKINIG: There is a degree of tension in relation to parking, this has increased recently and there have been instances of damage to parked vehicles by annoyed locals. PLEASE CAR SHARE WHEREVER POSSIBLE - Plenty of parkinig is avaible on Matlock Spa Rd, Matlock DE4 3TA (opposite te Sainsburys Petrol Station) IF YOU DO HAVE TO PARK AT THE CRAG, PLEASE PARK RESPONSBLY AS DETALED ON THE BMC RAD
On the hills above Matlock; secluded and quiet.
See sportclimbs.co.uk for access - note that the "broad entrance" to the dirt track on the left is a bit after the left turn off for Masson Leys farm, and has parking on the right hand side of the road, just before the road goes back to a very narrow single track again. Keep left over the gate and follow the ruts from the old quarrying lorries.
Please take care when climbing the stile and gate/fence enroute to the quarry, both have become damaged in recent months.
No Access Issues
Please read and adhere to the parking and approach information.
Rockfall took place in March 2022 on the RHS of Red Wall, particularly around the route Fun in the Sun. Loose rock is likely to remain on this part of the crag - caution is advised to anyone using this area.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
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These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
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