Climbs 67
Rocktype Amphibiolite & S
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

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Chloe age 8 on "Mile End" Pen Olver Slab, The Lizard © bazthomas

Crag features

A small, tidal sea cliff with interesting rock.


Park in Lizard and follow signs for the Housel Bay Hotel. From the Hotel, follow the coast path east until you reach the brown, wooden Marconi hut. Turn right and follow the headland until a balanced rock becomes visible on the right hand side. Turn right and descend straight down the grassy gully (rocks on the right are easiest to scramble down.) This will bring you to a large gearing up ledge, from where an abseil is easily rigged or the gully and rocks on the right may be descended.

Approach notes

It is easier to locate this crag using the CC guide description than the photo in West Country climbs. Nb. Whilst Rockfax is correct it is not clear that there is a huge bay seperating the two paths shown in the picture. You'll have no problems if you understand the climbs are on the headland closest to the brown hut.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Let Her Children Play VS 4b * 27
2 The Womb Tomb S * 38
3 The Womb Tomb (Direct Exit) VD * 9
4 The Giant Carrot E1 5b * 6
5 Butterfly HS 4b 6
6 Silent Minute *
D 1
7 Bilson's Fowl Play VD 39
8 Grieving S 3
9 Dolphin Surprise HS 4b 7
10 The People's Queen VS 4c * 64
11 Ocean Of Tears D * 25
12 Songs From A Gentle Man VS 4b ** 93
13 Vumba VD 17
14 Liquid Lizard * E1 5b 3
Climb name Grade
16 Lying Eyes S 15
17 Songs from a Broken Heart VS 4c * 25
18 Pilot's Song VS 4c 15
19 Flowers for a Lady VD 2
20 Sesame Street VD 7
  Pen Olver Slab Wall
22 Great Slanting VD * 141
23 saltheart S 4a * 105
24 Mule HVS 5a 35
25 Mile End M * 126
26 Blind Pew VD ** 186
27 A Little Gemma D * 71
28 Love is Blind VD * 85
Climb name Grade
29 Umbrella Groove D 14
30 Descent Route
D 3
31 There's A Riot Going On * VS 5a 2
32 Family Affair VD 8
33 Pashka * S 4a 1
  Amnesty Wall
35 Cian E4 5c *** 40
36 International E3 5c *** 40
37 Amnesty E3 5c *** 53
38 Alabama Thunderpussy * E3 5b * 1
39 Men Are from Mars * E1 5b 1
40 Brittle thunder * none vs 5a * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Andyh83