Climbs 45
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 76m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Winter Sunrise at the Agassiz Rock Pool © gambit247

Crag features

Agassiz Rock lies besides Blackford Quarry in Edinburgh and provides accessible moderate-hard bouldering in the city. The outcrop is south facing allowing climbing all year around.

The rock is steep in some parts, staying dry in the rain. The overhangs and crack are affected by seepage after heavy rain though.

The left side of the crag gives fairly stable climbing, however the right can be loose in places (expect for the black slab at the extreme right).

The climbing is mostly eliminate style problems and so there great scope for setting your own.

More info and beta available at https://urlzs.com/yRG9N


 

Approach notes

No problems with access. From Edinburgh head to Blackford hill. The quarry can be found on the south side besides Blackford Glen.
Park either in the Edinburgh Observatory car park, on Braid Hills drive or on Blackford Glen Road - park in designated areas, don't block the access to the farms and to Edinburgh Council waste centre.

:D Yes, my bad, I meant left.
Maragmhòraix - 29/Jun/17
By right hand side do you mean left? The easy traverse seems harder than it used to
davefj - 19/Jun/17
Update June 2017 - a big part of the mantelshelf on the right side of the crag has fallen down. It affects the moves of some of the climbs, including the high traverse, but I’ve climbed them again and it doesn’t seem to affect the grades. So I’ve left them.
Maragmhòraix - 05/Jun/17
Thanks - I was away for the last two months. I'll check it next week. It's not the first time though, the same thing happened last year. I cleaned a good part of it with a yard brush but if it becomes a habit, the place will become unclimbable. Plus the heat might damage the rock...
Maragmhòraix - 15/Aug/15
Brought a rope and some brushes along and cleaned as best I could with others today, middle line is just about climbable but the right side needs some solid rain to clean it off.
Shed - 22/Jul/15
Steepest section in the middle covered in a thick layer of soot from a fire as of 21st July. Pretty much unclimbable
Heggie - 22/Jul/15
Okay. Have taken over the moderation. Will try to clean it up. Input welcome.
Maragmhòraix - 26/Sep/14
Agree with Pierre, spent more time trying to work out where the problems were than climbing. This page needs to be scrapped and started again!
daftendirekt - 13/Sep/14
Many original holds are gone. The original versions of these problems simply don't exist anymore. Serious data update needed.
Maragmhòraix - 02/Jul/14
Small crag but i found it an excellent walk in. While there it's worth taking in the stunning views from the top of blackford hill near the observatory. Very close to a main track running through the area, so expect interested walkers and their dogs coming for a sniff. (not the walkers the dogs) More of a training area with potential for setting your own problems, what with the rock being quite steep and relatively dry in wet conditions. Some crumbly areas, although it consists mostly of solid sections. Worth a visit for its esoteric value.
gambit247 - 07/Jan/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  FAR LEFT
2 Rock over f6A 7
3 Agassize XL f7B 1
4 Hula's hop f6A 7
5 Step up f5+ 8
  LEFT WALL
7 High Traverse (AKA Louie Louie) f6B+ * 47
8 Last Gasp f7A 4
  THE BULGE (POCKET WALL)
10 Crossfire f4+ * 49
11 Wrenched Soul
-
f6A * 32
12 Pocket Slopers (destroyed) ✝︎ f6B+ * 22
13 Slippery Slope (Pocket slopers variation) f6C+ 6
14 Sawtooth
-
f6C 10
15 Walk the Dog
-
f6C 8
Climb name Grade
16 The Wizard f7A 3
17 The Dyno f6C 7
18 Mr Sheen f6C+ 9
19 Experiments in Procrastination f6B * 17
  OVERHANG
21 Jamming Beneath the Darkness f7A ** 5
22 The Lock (destroyed) † f7A 5
23 Nunes (destroyed) † f6C 4
24 The lock reloaded f7A 8
25 Kissing the Guns f7B  
26 Middle Aged Spread
-
f7B  
27 Murder by Numbers f7C+ 2
  Groove crack
29 The Crack f4+ * 56
30 Puny Worms (AKA 'The Crack variation') f6B 10
Climb name Grade
31 Groove crack f6A 11
  Procrastination pillar
33 Strength in Numbers (destroyed) † f7A+ 1
34 Procrastination "easy" (BiS version) f7A 3
35 Procrastination "hard" (Scottish Climbs version) f7B+  
36 Low Traverse f7B ** 7
37 Life Beneath the Darkness (Low Traverse eliminate) f7B+  
  BOREHOLE ROUND PROW
39 Passing the Prow f7A+ 3
40 Borehole f6C 2
  FAR RIGHT
42 Dynamic Earth (short version) f7C  
43 Dynamic Earth (full version) f7C+  
44 Boby IRA groove start f5+ 2
45 Bobby IRA f5 3

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Maragmhòraix