UKC

Climbs 1500
Rocktype Volcanic tuff
Altitude 989m a.s.l
Faces all

Marc Le Menestrel making the second? ascent of Just Do It (8c), Smith Rock, Oregon. © stp

Crag features

Smith Rock is Oregon’'s premier rock climbing destination, and one of the best sport climbing areas in the United States. This world-renowned sport climbing mecca has more than once been at the focal point of the climbing world. Extensive development took place in the 1960s, 70s, and 80s by locals and international climbers alike, who put up scores of classic climbs on the tuff and basalt cliffs; development continues to this day with new moderates and cutting-edge routes going up each year. Ranging from classic beginner routes to hardcore testpieces on a wide variety of rock, there is truly something here for everyone. Although best known for its sport climbing traditional climbers can find plenty to be excited about here as well. 

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Rock type: Volcanic Lots of sport/ trad routes all along the whole rock area, very well laid out, geared for climbers, made for climbers, you would certainly believe it if you see it! Multi pitch, single pitch, you name it, it has it. The grades as high or low as you want them. US grades are old skool compared to Canada, e.g. compared to Squamish at least, the same grade 5.8 is at least 1-2 grades harder in the U.S. Just bear that in mind. I was told this by others I climb with at Squamish who also climb in the U.S, and I found it to be true when I climbed there.
atlantis - 11/Jun/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Picnic Lunch Wall
2 Voyage of the Cowdog
-
5.8 *** 2
3 Five Easy Pieces (P1)
-
5.12a 1
4 Teddy Bear's Picnic (P1)
-
5.10b *** 6
5 Honey Pot
-
5.9 *** 9
  Spiderman Buttress
7 Out of Harm's Way 5.8 *** 3
8 Explosive Energy Child 5.10c 1
9 Spiderman Variation (P1) 5.7 ** 2
10 Spiderman
-
5.7 ** 7
11 Squashed Spider *
-
5.7 1
  Red Wall
13 Bill's Flake 5.10a ** 1
14 Orgasmagoria
-
5.10c *** 1
15 Pop Art 5.10b ** 3
16 Dances with Clams 5.10a ** 2
17 Super Slab
-
5.6 *** 6
18 Papillion
-
5.8 *** 6
19 Let's Face it
-
5.10b ** 2
20 Peking
-
5.9 *** 2
21 Chouinards Crack
-
5.9 ** 6
22 Moscow 5.6 ** 3
23 Breakdown in Paradise 5.10b ** 6
  Easy's Playhouse
  Aggro Gully
26 Toxic 5.11b *** 17
27 Up For Grabs
-
5.11d *** 3
28 Planet Mechanic
-
5.12a 1
29 The Quickening
-
5.12c *** 4
30 Scene Of The Crime
-
5.13c ** 1
31 Aggro Monkey
-
5.13b *** 2
32 White Wedding
-
5.13d *** 2
33 Villain
-
5.14a *** 1
34 Repeat Offender
-
5.14a ** 1
35 Highway To Hell
-
5.12b * 1
  Shipwreck Wall
37 Time to shower
-
5.8 *** 4
38 Time To Power Start
-
5.10a * 3
39 Blue Light Special
-
5.11b *** 9
40 Liquid Jade
-
5.12b *** 1
41 More Sandy than Kevin
-
5.11a 4
42 Purple Aces
-
5.11b *** 4
43 Walking While Intoxicated
-
5.10b *** 8
44 Slab Happy 5.9 ** 1
45 Riptide
-
5.11c 1
  Cocaine Gully
47 Bloodshot
-
5.11b *** 4
48 Crack Babies
-
5.12b *** 2
49 Armageddon
-
5.11a *** 3
50 Deep impact
-
5.10c ** 4
51 Bound In Bogota
-
5.11b ** 1
52 Powder Up The Nose 5.10d * 10
53 Freebase
-
5.12a *** 3
54 Vomit Launch 5.11b *** 20
55 Cocaine Crack 5.11b 1
56 Chicken McNuggets 5.10b ** 16
57 Skeleton Surfer
-
5.11b ** 2
  Morning Glory Wall
59 Lion's Jaw 5.8 ** 8
60 Anonymity 5.9 * 4
61 Zion
-
5.10a *** 1
62 Five Gallon Buckets 5.8 *** 41
63 The Outsiders
-
5.9 21
64 Light on the Path 5.10a ** 39
65 Cat Scan
-
5.11b *** 2
66 Morning Sky
-
5.10c *** 13
67 Gumby
-
5.10b *** 11
68 Lion Zion
-
5.10c *** 3
69 Zebra Direct
-
5.11a 12
70 Zebra Zion 5.10a *** 6
71 Zebra Seam
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5.11d * 4
72 Lion's Chair 5.11a 2
73 Magic Light (P1) 5.11a *** 30
74 Magic Light
-
5.12b **  
75 Tragic Flight
-
5.12b *** 1
76 Overboard 5.11b *** 16
77 Overly Bored (Overboard Extension)
-
5.11d *** 1
78 Nine Gallon Buckets
-
5.10c 22
79 Cool Ranch Flavour
-
5.11b ** 15
80 Cool Ranch Flavour Extension
-
5.11d ** 1
81 Churning in the Wake
-
5.13a ** 5
82 Vicious Fish
-
5.13d  
83 Kings of Rap 5.12d *** 5
  The Fourth Horseman
85 Headless horseman
-
5.10d 5
86 Pack Animal Direct 5.10b *** 3
87 Calamity Jam
-
5.10c ** 1
88 Snuffy Smith
-
5.9 4
  The Peanut
90 Hop on Pop 5.8 ** 10
91 Peanut Brittle 5.8 * 11
92 Pop Goes the Nubbin
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5.10a 8
93 Popism
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5.11b ** 1
  The Dihedrals
95 Vision
-
5.12b *** 1
96 Captain Xenolith
-
5.10a 8
97 Helium Woman
-
5.9 9
98 Lycopodophyta
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5.7 ** 1
99 Rabbit Stew 5.7 ** 2
100 Bunny Face 5.7 *** 19
101 Ancylostoma
-
5.9 * 1
102 Chain Reaction 5.12c *** 15
103 Darkness At Noon
-
5.13a *** 2
104 Heinous Cling (start)
-
5.12a *** 14
105 Heinous Cling (Full length) 5.12c *** 3
106 Moonshine Dihedral 5.9 *** 17
107 Middle Aged Vandal
-
5.11c ** 5
108 The Flat Earth 5.12a * 1
109 Wedding Day
-
5.10b ** 20
110 Moondance
-
5.11c ** 7
Climb name Grade
111 Last Waltz
-
5.12c *** 3
112 To Bolt or Not to Be
-
5.14a *** 1
113 Sunshine Dihedral
-
5.11d *** 8
114 Take a Powder
-
5.12a *** 8
115 Latin Lover
-
5.12a ** 12
116 Fresh Squeezed 5.11a 1
117 Watts Tots
-
5.12b * 7
118 Latest Rage
-
5.12b *** 4
119 Karot Tots
-
5.11b *** 1
120 Crossfire
-
5.12b *** 1
121 Karate Crack
-
5.10a *** 5
122 Cinnamon slab 5.6 *** 12
123 Night Flight 5.5 *** 7
124 Ginger Snap 5.8 ** 10
125 Cry Baby 5.9 *** 1
126 Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut
-
5a * 2
127 Left Slab Crack 5.4 * 2
128 Easy Reader 5.6 ** 7
129 Lichen It 5.8 ** 16
  The Christian Brothers
131 Holier Than Thou
-
5.11b ** 5
132 Get on the Ball
-
5.10b 4
133 Benidictine Punk
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5.7 1
134 Benedictine Punk
-
5.7 * 7
135 Inside Corner 5.10c 1
136 Jete 5.8 ** 2
137 Dancer 5.7 ** 2
138 Earth Boys
-
5.10b 2
139 Ring of Fire 5.11d ** 11
140 Hesitation Blues 5.10b 3
141 Toys in the Attic 5.9 ** 1
142 Double Trouble 5.10b ** 4
143 Overnight sensation
-
5.11b 3
144 Panic Attack
-
5.12a ** 1
145 Blasphemy
-
5.11a ** 7
146 Heathen's Highway 6a ** 1
147 Nightingale's on Vacation
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5.10b * 8
148 Irreverence
-
5.10a *** 17
149 Revelations 5.9 * 16
150 New Testament 5.10a *** 11
151 The Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route 5.10c ** 3
152 Barbecue the Pope 5.10b ** 24
153 The left side of the Beard 5.6 * 3
154 Right Side of The Beard
-
5.7 * 3
155 Golgotha
-
5.11b *** 4
156 Wartleys Revenge 5.11b *** 5
157 Heresy 5.11c ** 9
158 Rude Boys
-
5.13b *** 3
159 Boy Prophet
-
5.12b *** 2
160 Dreamin'
-
5.12a *** 10
161 Rawhide
-
5.11d *** 4
162 Deep Splash 5.11d ** 1
163 Midriff Bulge
-
5.10a * 1
164 Little Indian Princess *
-
5.7 1
165 Lunatic To Love *
-
5.10a 1
166 Modern Zombie *
-
5.10d 3
167 Hot Monkey Love *
-
5.11a 4
  Smith Rock Group - Northwest Face
169 Stained
-
5.9  
170 Wherever I May Roam 5.9 *** 15
  Smith Rock Group - Northeast Face
172 Lost In Space 5.10c *** 3
  Smith Rock Group - Southern Tip
174 9999
-
5.6 ** 1
175 Amelia Dearheart
-
5.7 * 1
  Smith Rock Group - Phoenix
177 When Llamas Bolt 6b+ ** 4
178 Hissing Llamas 5.8 * 13
179 Jim Treviso Memorial Route
-
5.10b ** 12
180 JT's Route
-
5.10b 8
181 Fred on air
-
5.10d ** 9
182 Licence to Bolt 5.11b *** 9
183 Phoenix
-
5.10a *** 18
184 Drill 'em and Fill 'em
-
5.10a 10
185 Unknown 5.10d 1
  Smith Rock Group - Llama Wall
187 Eye of the Beholder
-
5.11c 1
188 Lightly Toasted
-
5.11b 3
189 Blackened
-
5.11c 4
190 Entering Relativity
-
5.11a 2
191 Llama Enlightenment 5.10c ** 1
192 Wannabe Llamas 5.8 3
  Vulture Ridge
  Mesa Verde Wall
195 Massive Luxury Overdose
-
5.10b ** 3
196 Planet Luxury
-
5.10c ** 8
197 Trezlar 5.10a *** 4
198 Cosmos
-
5.10a ** 16
199 Screaming Yellow Zonkers
-
5.10b *** 27
200 Moons of Pluto
-
5.10d *** 28
201 Bad moon rising
-
5.11a *** 6
202 Badmoon Rising
-
5.11a *** 3
203 Sundown 5.9 *** 2
  Pleasure Palace
205 Aggro Bumbly 5.10d *** 3
206 Matthew 7:24 5.10b ** 5
207 Xanadu 5.10a * 1
208 Bop Till You Drop 5.11a *** 1
209 Little Wicked Thing
-
5.10a * 3
210 We Be Toys 5.10a 2
211 Red Scare 5.10b ** 3
212 Watermark
-
5.9 * 1
  Snake Rock
214 Hemp Liberation
-
5.10b 3
215 Split Image
-
5.12d ** 1
216 The Golden Road 5.11b 1
217 Iguanas on Elm Street 5.10c ** 3
218 Don't Tread On Me
-
5.8 ** 4
  Follies of the Youth Block
Climb name Grade
  Pillar of the Community
  Monkey Face
222 Monkey Space 5.11b *** 4
223 Monkey off my Back
-
5.9 ** 2
224 Pioneer Route C0 *** 9
225 Rising Expectations
-
5.11d *** 1
226 Just Do It
-
5.14c ***  
227 Astro Monkey
-
5.11d ** 2
228 West Face Variation 5.8 *** 12
229 West Face Variation Direct 5.8 *** 6
  Kiss of the Lepers
231 Ryan's Song 5.7 ** 2
232 Redundant 5.7 * 2
233 First Kiss 5.8 ** 5
  Western Ship - River Face
235 The Purple Headed Warrior 5.7 ** 9
236 Phone Call From Satan
-
5.9 ** 18
237 Caffeine Free
-
5.10a 14
  Victoria Tower
239 Oh Oh Climax 5.9 * 1
  Smith Rock Group
  Monument Area
242 Approaching the Twilight
-
5.9 * 3
243 Praying Mantel
-
5.10a * 1
244 Moore, Please?
-
5.9 * 2
  Hank Collins Memorial Wall
  Northern Point
247 Jungle Fever
-
5.11b 1
248 Limbo
-
5.11a *** 4
249 A Woman In the Meadow
-
5.11a *** 5
250 Little Wonder 5.10b * 1
251 Jersey Shore 5.7 * 1
  Staender Ridge
253 Here and Never Found
-
5.8 ** 3
254 Nice Guys Finish Last
-
5.9 * 3
255 Lollypop League
-
5.5 *** 4
256 Popper
-
5.10a ** 1
  Student Wall
258 Flunked Out 5.6 1
259 Fight Song
-
5.10a 1
260 Drilling Zona
-
5.11c 1
  Lower Gorge
262 Wildfire
-
5.10b *** 5
263 Crime Wave
-
5.11b ** 1
264 Gruff 5.10a 10
265 Rim Job
-
5.10b 6
266 Iron Cross
-
5.11c ** 1
267 Bad Finger
-
5.10b *** 7
268 On the Road
-
5.11a 1
269 Pure Palm 5.11a *** 8
270 Cornercopia 5.10b ** 6
271 White Trash
-
5.12a *** 4
272 Cry of the Poor
-
5.11a 1
273 Catalyst (a.k.a. Child Abuse)
-
5.12b *** 1
274 Cruel Sister
-
5.10a 4
275 Blood Clot
-
5.10b 2
276 Quasar
-
5.10a 1
277 Last Chance
-
5.10c 1
278 Prometheus
-
5.10c 1
279 Dark Star
-
5.12a 1
  East side (Lower gorge)
281 As you Like It 5.10b *** 1
282 Azog 5.9 * 1
283 Ophelia 5.8 ** 1
  Upper Gorge
  Mud Pile
  Delirium Tremes
  The Wallaby
  Brogan Spire
289 The Cave Route
-
5.7 *** 1
  Koala Rock
291 Cool Air
-
5.11a ** 2
292 Through Being Cool
-
5.11b *** 1
293 Ryans Arete 5.10c *** 1
294 Round River Direct 5.8 *** 2
295 Round Here
-
5.6 ** 2
296 Round There 5.7 *** 3
297 Crazies 5.7 ** 2
298 Buffalo Power
-
5.10c ** 4
299 Thin Air 5.10b *** 3
300 Suck my Kiss
-
5.10a 4
  Rope de Dope
302 How Low Can You Go?
-
5.7 *** 1
303 Immortal Beloved
-
5.9 * 1
304 Shamu
-
5.9 * 8
305 Float Like a Butterfly
-
5.10b ** 4
306 Rope de Dope Crack 5.8 * 2
307 Sleepy Town
-
5.10a * 2
308 Morgantown 5.10a ** 4
309 Mini-bender
-
5.8 ** 5
  The Wombat
311 Birds in a Rut
-
5.7 *** 1
  Marsupial Wall
  Unknown
314 Shake 'n' Flake 5.11b * 3
315 Shock and Awe
-
5.14c *** 2
316 Chemical Ali
-
5.14a *** 1
317 I'm a Bad Man
-
5.14a 1
318 The Big R
-
5.14a 1
319 The Limbo
-
5.11a 1
320 Cinnamon & Sugar
-
5.5 ** 1
321 Tommy Baker's Face
-
5.10c * 1
  Moved climbs from Smith Rock Group
323 Sky Dive * 6b *** 1
324 Sky Ridge * S ** 2
325 White Satin *
-
HVS 5a *** 1
326 Lycra * 6a+ ** 2
327 Seasons Change *
-
6c *** 1
328 Innocent Victim *
-
6a ** 3
  Moved climbs from Prophet Wall
330 Temptation *
-
6a ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Giles Eperon