Climbs 11
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

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Climber on Crag Craig Fawr © Gabe

Crag features

A good if small crag situated above Margam Abbey. It is part quaried and part natural, but the rock is generally sound with some surprisingly strong and clean lines. There is an old bolt belay at the top and a peg runner and some threads set well back for back ups.

The top of the crag is now quite overgrown with bramble and gorse (went there 15th April 09) and so access to the belays is treacherous. The rock face is clean though. If you want to top-rope, take a machete !

Approach notes

From Junction 38, M4, follow signposts for Margam Abbey and park on the forestry track at the base of a hill. Walk up the path leading up the hill toward the ruined chapel.When you reach an obvious cross path just below the chapel with a wooden sign saying something like "Craig Fawr - Welcome" turn left into the woods for about 400 yards (5 minutes). When you coome to an obvious pile of rocks on the left of the path, leave the path to the right and climb to reach the crag which is about 50m uphill. Take care on broken, steep, slippery and branch-strewn ground. Public transport is not really practical. Access is sensitive, so a low profile is recommended.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Silf
HVS 5a  
2 Left Edge'
E1 5b 1
3 Quercus
HS 4a 9
4 Antonia's Route
VS 4c 13
Climb name Grade
5 Owl Groove
VS 4c * 13
6 Derbyshire Hiraeth
E2 5b 1
7 The Orangery
E1 5b 2
8 Gorsedd Groove
S 10
Climb name Grade
9 Bibbon
VS 4b 6
10 Ivy Tilsley
HVS 5a 3
11 Monkey Business * E2 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ERU