Climbs 300
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1862m a.s.l
Faces all

Elephant Rock City of Rocks Idaho © bhood

Crag features

Simply World Class. Utterly sublime and totally addictive - you'll never want to leave.

All grades of climber are very well served with an even and endless spread of routes. This, for many Brits, is a dream come true. The City of Rocks is a gathering of perhaps 100 or so rock islands of various sizes and heights - one 'island' can provide around 50 distinct routes (there is no time for variations here). It would take a lifetime to climb all the routes. The big new guidebook to it is still a best of. I would estimate there to be double the number of routes here than at Stanage for example.The area is for the vast majority Trad, but even sport route only climbers would need a lifetime to clip all the bolted routes. Although it is extremely popular, it is conversly never busy; you can't queue at the city of rocks there is just so much choice. Therefore everything's maintained and never overgrown, but also there's no queuing - no racing to the start of routes here.

The climbs themselves are really varied - cracks, slabs, chimneys, well proteted, run out - the whole shooting match with most lines around 45-50m in height, though some extend to over 100m. This can make a refreshing change from the multi-pitch demands of many US climbing areas. So even if intending to 'pop in' on a tour, BUY A GUIDEBOOK, you'll want to stay longer.

The 'scene' is very friendly and does not have all that portentious and pretentious big talk of say, Camp 4 in Yosemite. This is 'share a beer' climbing. You'll find the best aspects of US climbing here, whether you climb hard or are beginning.

Approach notes

No fee to enter the City of Rocks park. Camping is done via a self fill in fee station and is spread out throughout the park (rangers do check). It costs $12.72 per site (so if there's a few of you cheap as chips) - what genius added 72c I don't know! The guidebook claims there is no water - this is not true, even during drought there was ample water via several pumps. If the camping in the rocks is full then there is a big campsite just outside the park. There is a store selling reasonably priced provisiuons nearby, as well as 'pure health and goodness' i.e. burgers etc. There is also a hot spring nearby. Dirt roads, but fine for normal cars. Once camped you'll rarely need to drive anywhere.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Batwings Direct
-
5.10a ** 2
2 Delay of Game
-
5.8 *** 10
3 Sudden Pleasure
-
5.11b *** 3
4 Redtail
-
5.11a *** 6
5 Spud Meets Hammerhead
-
5.11c ** 1
6 Cairo
-
5.10d 5
7 Nairobi
-
5.12a *** 1
8 Colossus 5.10c *** 12
9 Loch Ness Monster
-
5.11b *** 5
10 Gemini
-
5.12a *** 4
11 Robinudo
-
5c  
12 piccolo matteo
-
5c  
13 Parking Lot's Seven
-
5.7 1
14 Scream Cheese
-
5.9 5
15 Swiss Cheese
-
5.7 5
16 New York is Not the City
-
5.9 ** 1
17 Deez Guys
-
5.10a ** 1
18 Rye Crisp
-
5.8 13
19 Just Say No
-
5.9 6
20 Skyline 5.8 *** 10
21 Reach For the Sky
-
5.9  
22 Fall Line
-
5.10b 7
23 Wheat Thin
-
5.7 13
24 Pygmies Got Stoned
-
5.10a 9
25 Tow Away Zone
-
5.10a 6
26 Funky Bolt
-
5.10a 4
27 Truth is Stranger Than Friction
-
5.10b  
28 Chomping at the Bit
-
2a  
29 Solo Ascent
-
5.7 1
30 Donini's Crack
-
5.10c **  
31 Private Idaho
-
5.9 3
32 Fall line
-
5.10c  
33 Beware of stopping seagulls
-
5.10d  
34 Crack
-
5.8  
35 Dire Straights
-
5.9  
36 Elfworks
-
5.11a  
37 Bumblie takes a tumblie
-
5.11a  
38 Tribal boundaries
-
5.10a 10
39 No Porpoise
-
5.10d  
40 Tree Start 5.5 * 1
41 Norma's Book
-
5.5 *** 2
42 She's The Bosch
-
5.11b *** 5
43 Bomb's Over Tripoli
-
5.12a *** 3
44 Inspiration Or Perspiration
-
5.12c *** 1
45 Spud's In The Gym
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5.12b *** 1
46 Jetlag
-
5.12b *** 1
47 Dance To The Music
-
5.11b *** 2
48 Dressed To Kill
-
5.11d *** 1
49 Strategic Defense
-
5.11c *** 4
50 Power Tools
-
5.12b *** 1
51 Chaos
-
5.12b *** 1
52 Pigs On The Wing
-
5.11a *** 3
53 The Drilling Fields
-
5.11b *** 3
54 Coffee And Cornflakes
-
5.10a *** 3
55 Tarantula
-
5.12a *** 2
56 Batwings 5.8 *** 4
57 Raindance
-
5.7 *** 2
58 Dynamoe Hum
-
5.10c ** 1
59 Too Much Fun
-
5.8 *** 4
60 Hired Gun 5.10a ** 1
61 Bora-Bora
-
5.9 ** 1
62 The Good Stuff
-
5.10a ** 1
63 Roratonga
-
5.10b ** 1
64 New York Is Not The City (direct) 5.10a *** 4
65 Flight of the Bumblie 5.10a * 1
66 I can't believe it 5.10a *** 3
67 Bikini Candy
-
5.8 ** 1
68 Wonderbread 5.10a ** 1
69 Looker 5.8 ** 1
70 Bomber 5.9 ** 1
71 Skin the Cat 5.7 ** 3
72 Animal Cracker
-
5.10a *** 7
73 Bat Wings
-
5.8 *** 1
74 Rollercoaster
-
5.9 ** 3
75 Adolescent Homo Sapien 5.7 ** 1
76 Submission
-
5.6 1
77 Dimples and Tits
-
5.11a * 1
78 Pocket Rocket
-
5.9 * 1
79 Good Times
-
5.7 * 1
80 Pure Pleasure
-
5.7 * 1
81 Coyote Corner
-
5.8 1
82 Columbian crack
-
5.7 4
83 Classic Route(Lost Arrow)
-
5.7 ** 1
84 Theatre Of Shadows
-
5.7 *** 1
85 Flake Route
-
5.5 ** 1
86 Moderate roue
-
5.7 *  
87 Conceptual Reality
-
5.9 *** 1
88 Hesitation Blues 5.7 *** 3
89 Roadkill 5.10b ** 3
90 Thin Slice 5.10a *** 3
91 Pretzel Logic 5.10c ** 3
92 Terror of Tiny Town 5.11a *** 1
93 Rio 5.11c ** 1
94 Tow-Away Zone 5.10d ** 1
95 Bombs Over Tripoli 5.12a **  
96 Acceptable Risk
-
5.10d ** 1
97 Scar Tissue
-
5.11a ** 1
98 Silent Partner
-
5.10d * 1
99 Collosus
-
5.10c ** 2
100 Firewater
-
5.11b 2
101 Dynamo Hum 5.10c * 1
102 Heat Wave 5.10c 1
103 Where Rangers Retire 5.10c ** 1
104 Good enough for Government Work 5.10c 1
105 Master Mechanic 5.11b * 2
106 Beware of Nesting Ego's 5.11b ** 2
107 The Slabbage Patch 5.10a ** 1
108 Cruel Shoes
-
5.7 1
109 Mystery Bolter
-
5.9 1
110 Easy Way Up
-
5.5 * 1
111 East Side Groove
-
5.6 ** 1
112 Driving at Night 5.9 ** 1
113 Just Another Pretty Face
-
5.10d ** 4
114 The Ranger's a psycho 5.10c ** 1
115 Quest for Fire 5.10c ** 1
116 Harvest 5.10d *** 1

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