Climbs 300
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1877m a.s.l
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Elephant Rock City of Rocks Idaho © bhood

Crag features

Simply World Class. Utterly sublime and totally addictive - you'll never want to leave.

All grades of climber are very well served with an even and endless spread of routes. This, for many Brits, is a dream come true. The City of Rocks is a gathering of perhaps 100 or so rock islands of various sizes and heights - one 'island' can provide around 50 distinct routes (there is no time for variations here). It would take a lifetime to climb all the routes. The big new guidebook to it is still a best of. The area is for the vast majority Trad, but even sport route only climbers would need a lifetime to clip all the bolted routes. Although it is extremely popular, it is conversly never busy; you can't queue at the City of Rocks - there is just so much choice. Therefore everything's maintained and never overgrown, but also there's no queuing - no racing to the start of routes here.

The climbs themselves are really varied - cracks, slabs, chimneys, well proteted, run out - the whole shooting match with most lines around 45-50m in height, though some extend to over 100m. This can make a refreshing change from the multi-pitch demands of many US climbing areas. So even if intending to 'pop in' on a tour, BUY A GUIDEBOOK, you'll want to stay longer.

The 'scene' is very friendly and does not have all that portentious and pretentious big talk of say, Camp 4 in Yosemite. This is 'share a beer' climbing. You'll find the best aspects of US climbing here, whether you climb hard or are beginning.

Approach notes

No fee to enter the City of Rocks park. Camping is done via a self fill in fee station and is spread out throughout the park (rangers do check). It costs $12.72 per site (so if there's a few of you cheap as chips) - what genius added 72c I don't know! The guidebook claims there is no water - this is not true, even during drought there was ample water via several pumps. If the camping in the rocks is full then there is a big campsite just outside the park. There is a store selling reasonably priced provisiuons nearby, as well as 'pure health and goodness' i.e. burgers etc. There is also a hot spring nearby. Dirt roads, but fine for normal cars. Once camped you'll rarely need to drive anywhere.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Batwings Direct
-
5.10a ** 2
2 Delay of Game
-
5.8 *** 10
3 Sudden Pleasure
-
5.11b *** 3
4 Redtail
-
5.11a *** 7
5 Spud Meets Hammerhead
-
5.11c ** 1
6 Cairo
-
5.10d 6
7 Nairobi
-
5.12a *** 1
8 Colossus 5.10c *** 14
9 Loch Ness Monster
-
5.11b *** 7
10 Gemini
-
5.12a *** 5
11 Robinudo
-
5c  
12 Piccolo Matteo
-
5c  
13 Parking Lot's Seven
-
5.7 1
14 Scream Cheese
-
5.9 5
15 Swiss Cheese
-
5.7 5
16 New York is Not the City
-
5.9 ** 1
17 Deez Guys
-
5.10a ** 2
18 Rye Crisp
-
5.8 16
19 Just Say No
-
5.9 6
20 Skyline 5.8 *** 12
21 Reach For the Sky
-
5.9  
22 Fall Line
-
5.10b 9
23 Wheat Thin
-
5.7 15
24 Pygmies Got Stoned
-
5.10a 11
25 Tow Away Zone
-
5.10a 6
26 Funky Bolt
-
5.10a 4
27 Truth is Stranger Than Friction
-
5.10b  
28 Chomping at the Bit
-
2a  
29 Solo Ascent
-
5.7 1
30 Donini's Crack
-
5.10c ** 1
31 Private Idaho
-
5.9 4
32 Fall line
-
5.10c 1
33 Beware of stopping seagulls
-
5.10d  
34 Crack
-
5.8  
35 Dire Straights
-
5.9  
36 Elfworks
-
5.11a  
37 Bumblie takes a tumblie
-
5.11a 1
38 Tribal boundaries
-
5.10a 12
39 No Porpoise
-
5.10d  
40 Tree Start 5.5 * 1
41 Norma's Book
-
5.5 *** 3
42 She's The Bosch
-
5.11b *** 6
43 Bomb's Over Tripoli
-
5.12a *** 3
44 Inspiration Or Perspiration
-
5.12c *** 1
45 Spud's In The Gym
-
5.12b *** 1
46 Jetlag
-
5.12b *** 1
47 Dance To The Music
-
5.11b *** 3
48 Dressed To Kill
-
5.11d *** 1
49 Strategic Defense
-
5.11c *** 5
50 Power Tools
-
5.12b *** 1
51 Chaos
-
5.12b *** 1
52 Pigs On The Wing
-
5.11a *** 4
53 The Drilling Fields
-
5.11b *** 4
54 Coffee And Cornflakes
-
5.10a *** 3
55 Tarantula
-
5.12a *** 2
56 Batwings 5.8 *** 5
57 Raindance
-
5.7 *** 2
58 Dynamoe Hum
-
5.10c ** 1
59 Too Much Fun
-
5.8 *** 5
60 Hired Gun 5.10a ** 1
61 Bora-Bora
-
5.9 ** 1
62 The Good Stuff
-
5.10a ** 1
63 Roratonga
-
5.10b ** 1
64 New York Is Not The City (direct) 5.10a *** 5
65 Flight of the Bumblie 5.10a * 1
66 I can't believe it 5.10a *** 3
67 Bikini Candy
-
5.8 ** 1
68 Wonderbread 5.10a ** 1
69 Looker 5.8 ** 1
70 Bomber 5.9 ** 1
71 Skin the Cat 5.7 ** 3
72 Animal Cracker
-
5.10a *** 8
73 Bat Wings
-
5.8 *** 1
74 Rollercoaster
-
5.9 ** 3
75 Adolescent Homo Sapien 5.7 ** 1
76 Submission
-
5.6 1
77 Dimples and Tits
-
5.11a * 1
78 Pocket Rocket
-
5.9 * 1
79 Good Times
-
5.7 * 1
80 Pure Pleasure
-
5.7 * 1
81 Coyote Corner
-
5.8 1
82 Columbian crack
-
5.7 5
83 Classic Route(Lost Arrow)
-
5.7 ** 1
84 Theatre Of Shadows
-
5.7 *** 1
85 Flake Route
-
5.5 ** 1
86 Moderate roue
-
5.7 *  
87 Conceptual Reality
-
5.9 *** 1
88 Hesitation Blues 5.7 *** 3
89 Roadkill 5.10b ** 3
90 Thin Slice 5.10a *** 4
91 Pretzel Logic 5.10c ** 3
92 Terror of Tiny Town 5.11a *** 1
93 Rio 5.11c ** 1
94 Tow-Away Zone 5.10d ** 2
95 Bombs Over Tripoli 5.12a **  
96 Acceptable Risk
-
5.10d ** 2
97 Scar Tissue
-
5.11a ** 1
Climb name Grade
98 Silent Partner
-
5.10d * 1
99 Collosus
-
5.10c ** 2
100 Firewater
-
5.11b 3
101 Dynamo Hum 5.10c * 1
102 Heat Wave 5.10c 1
103 Where Rangers Retire 5.10c ** 1
104 Good enough for Government Work 5.10c 1
105 Master Mechanic 5.11b * 2
106 Beware of Nesting Ego's 5.11b ** 3
107 The Slabbage Patch 5.10a ** 1
108 Cruel Shoes
-
5.7 1
109 Mystery Bolter
-
5.9 2
110 Easy Way Up
-
5.5 * 1
111 East Side Groove
-
5.6 ** 1
112 Driving at Night 5.9 ** 1
113 Just Another Pretty Face
-
5.10d ** 4
114 The Ranger's a psycho 5.10c ** 1
115 Quest for Fire 5.10c ** 2
116 Harvest 5.10d *** 1
117 Sabotage
-
5.11b 1
118 Bloody Fingers
-
5.10a 2
119 Sex, drugs and rock and roll
-
5.11a 1
120 Fido
-
5.11c 1
121 Spot
-
5.11a 1
122 Ball and chain
-
5.11b 1
123 Young Frankenstein
-
5.12b 1
124 Beauty and the Beast
-
5.10a 1
125 Another Jay Goodwin Route
-
5.10c 1
126 Sabatical
-
5.10c 1
  Upper Bread Loaves North, West
128 Route 66 5.8 *  
129 Stolen Thunder 5.12c  
130 Interceptor 5.11a ***  
131 Tide Country 5.10a *  
132 North Corner 5.6  
133 Make Mine Wide and Flaring 5.10a  
134 Cam-a-Lot 5.10a  
135 Covered Wagon 5.10a  
136 Built for Comfort 5.10a **  
137 Bad Crack 5.8 *  
138 Muffin Top 5.8 **  
139 Love Handles 5.8 **  
140 Aspen Leaf 5.10a ** 2
141 Tel Aviv 5.12b **  
142 Stretch Marks 5.9 ** 1
  Upper Bread Loaves East
144 Roman Meal 5.8 *  
145 Reid's Route 5.9 *  
146 Catwalk 5.8 *** 1
147 The Egyptian 5.8 *  
148 Manky Scum 5.7  
149 English Muffin 5.9  
150 X 5.10a  
151 Fred Rasmussen 5.8 *** 1
152 Two Bits 5.11a *  
153 Spider Gawd 5.11b **  
154 Urban Renewal 5.11d **  
155 Lost Pioneers 5.10a ** 1
156 Green Crack 5.11a **  
157 No Cash Refunds 5.8 *  
  Bloody Fingers Area
159 Double Vision 5.10a 1
160 October 5.8  
161 Bloody Fingers 5.10a *** 11
162 New Toy 5.10b  
163 Dorworth's Chimney 5.6 *  
164 Twist and Crawl 5.8 2
165 Mystery Achievement 5.7 **  
166 John Wayne Never Wore Lycra 5.11a *  
  Bloody Fingers Corridor
168 Indruding Dike 5.7 *** 8
169 Hough's Crack 5.7 *  
170 Featured Face 5.7  
171 Breezeway 5.6 *  
172 Descent Route 5.5  
  Provo Wall
174 Seven Grain 5.7 *  
175 Finer Niner 5.9 ** 1
176 White Flake 5.8 **  
177 Something Sporting 5.11a *  
178 Triple Roofs 5.7 **  
179 Tennish Anyone 5.10a ** 1
180 Easy Corner 5.7 **  
181 Riding on an Incline 5.11a **  
182 Psycho Driller 5.11a *  
183 Dead Bird Crack (AKA Humbles Tumble) 5.9 **  
184 Sabbatical 5.10c ***  
185 Nine Grain 5.9  
186 Forgotten Trails 5.12b ***  
187 Provo 5.11c ***  
188 East Provo 5.12a *  
  Decadent Wall
190 Pluton Playground 5.5 *  
191 Dyke's on Harleys 5.4 *  
192 Loafers 5.4 *  
193 Lowe Route 5.6 *  
194 Twilight 5.6 **  
Climb name Grade
195 Carol's Crack 5.8 *** 4
196 Devine Decadence 5.9 **  
197 Flesh for Fantasy 5.11a **  
198 Adolescent Homo 5.7 *** 1
199 FDC 5.10a ** 1
200 Bestiality 5.9 *  
201 Kibbles and Bits 5.11a ** 1
202 Nipples and Clits 5.10a ** 2
203 Another Greg Lowe Route 5.8 **  
204 Sex, Drugs, and Rock & Roll 5.11a **  
205 Abortions on Parade 5.10c ** 1
206 Sexual Dysfunction 5.12a **  
207 Too Much Testosterone 5.12c **  
208 Testosterone Test 5.11d ***  
209 Impotence 5.10d ** 1
  Asian Wall (Lower Decadent)
211 Passion for a Thrashin' 5.5  
212 Steppes of Central Asia 5.8 *  
213 Box Lunch 5.10d **  
214 Just Hold Still 5.11b **  
215 Self Abuse 5.10d ***  
216 Shaved in the Shape of a Heart 5.10b *  
217 Sportin' a Woody 5.10a  
  Owl Rock
219 Mothra 5.11a *  
220 Megalon 5.10b *  
221 Tuna Bush 5.9 *  
222 Godzilla 5.10c *  
223 Rodan 5.10d **  
224 Family Affair 1 5.7 *  
225 Family Affair 2 5.7 *  
226 Owl Roof 5.10c ***  
227 Fledgling 5.7 *  
228 Full Fledged 5.8 *  
229 Bubo Bulge 5.11d **  
230 Night Vision 5.10a  
231 Snack Break Direct 5.8 ** 2
232 Snack Break 5.10a ** 1
  King on the Throne
234 Fishbone 5.12c **  
235 Double Cracks 5.10a *  
236 Hatchettt's 5.10a ***  
237 Water Groove 5.10a  
238 Climber's Diet 5.10a  
239 Queen on the Pot 5.11b *  
240 The Awakening 5.11a ***  
241 Groovy Crack 5.10b **  
242 Groovy Toprope 5.10a **  
243 Rap and Pillage 5.12c **  
244 Cranky Grind 5.11a  
245 Cruel World 5.10b  
246 Easy Way 5.3 *  
247 Jug World / Crack World 5.9 *  
248 Z-Cracks 5.9 **  
249 Stan's Roof 5.10c **  
250 Snakes and Ladders 5.9 **  
251 Short Route 5.10a  
  Go West
253 Nature Walk 5.9 *  
254 Strolling 5.9 *  
255 Backpacking 5.10a  
256 Make It Hurt 5.10a **  
257 Make It Hurt More 5.11a **  
258 Sunshowers 5.10a *  
259 Wiggle in Her Walk 5.4  
260 Giggle in Her Talk 5.4  
261 Gardening at Night 5.10a  
262 Milk and Honey 5.6  
  Finger Rock
264 Salty Dog 5.10a *  
265 Outland 5.10b **  
266 Patina Toprope Left 5.10a **  
267 Patina Toprope Right 5.10a **  
268 Mistaken Identity 5.10a  
269 Nine to Five Flake 5.10a  
270 The Color of Money 5.11b **  
271 Dragonfly 5.10a  
272 Masochistic Opposite 5.10a *  
  Shangri-la
274 Checkerboard Left 5.10b *  
275 Checkerboard Middle 5.9 *  
276 Checkerboard Right 5.8 *  
277 Shilling Variation 5.10b *  
278 God-Stopper 5.10c **  
279 Rat Crack 5.10a **  
280 Comatoast 5.11b *  
281 Stick Like a Maggot 5.11d *  
282 Beyond Good and Evil 5.10d ***  
283 Land of the Lost 5.12a * 1
  Fiesta Spire, Crescent Crack
285 Piñata 5.10a *  
286 Dancin' on Diamonds 5.10a **  
287 Fiesta 5.10b ***  
288 Tickled Pink 5.10a ***  
289 Crescent Crack 5.10a ***  
290 Patina Toprope 5.10a ***  
291 Red Dihedral 5.12a ***  

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