UKC

Climbs 279
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 461m a.s.l
Faces all

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The last clip © TC Changed

Crag features

Brilliant limestone outcrop at Mae On, 35km from Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. Varied styles of climbing and shade can always be found at the different sectors. Mostly single pitch but some two and three pitch routes. Majority of the development and bolting done by CMRCA since 2002 https://www.thailandclimbing.com/ 

Most of the sectors require just a few minutes walk on well maintained trails from the parking.

Great mobile topos of the latest routes can be found at https://www.thailandclimbing.com/climber-info/cragfinder

Be aware that there may be monks in the area, please be respectful, aware of your noise level and how you are dressed (covering shoulders and legs as a woman) and as much as possible don't stand above a monk with your feet above their head! 

And as always, leave no trace! 

Approach notes

45 minutes from Chiang Mai on highway 1141 then route 1317 towards Mueang On cave, you can see the crag to your left, the turn is 200m past a blue sign for the cave. A wood sign with Thai writing marks a dirt road, and 500m up is the car park, complete with picnic area and flushing toilets!

It's easiest to rent a scooter or car, or to stay in a homestay across from the crag, dropping the approach to 5 minutes! 

 

No Access Issues

According to CMRCA this crag has now reopened. 

It's a very nice crag and very well maintained, but the bolting isn't great. Far too many bolts on a lot of routes, and the anchors are often two rings level with each other, which turns the rope into a twisted disaster. Surely the bolsters should know to put the rings vertically to avoid this?! Many of the expansion bolts are loose, so I'd take a spanner if visiting again. Looks like they are gradually being replaced by glue-ins.
Mowglee - 02/Jun/14
Hi, yeah updated that now, apologies I missed that when I put the route in the database. It's well known as one of the mega classics at the crag hey...
nick willis - 30/Apr/10
Get the *** stars on 'The Balance of Power' at the Furnace. It's one of the best routes at Crazy Horse. Cheers :)
Oliver Branagan - 30/Apr/10
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Climbs at this crag

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