Climbs 24
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 17m a.s.l
The main wall © genuinemerchandise
A series of walls and geos on generally good rock and generally good protection in a spectacular and atmospheric location. The approach is fantastic, the views are brilliant and you're pretty much guaranteed to have it all to yourself (not that anywhere gets busy in Orkney). A good alternative to Yesnaby with many routes in the lower grade range that are more accessible and on far more skin-friendly rock. There are also a few deep water solo options too.
Most climbs are accessible by scrambling down the large geo but the smaller wall to the south requires abseiling in and hanging belays. The majority of the climbing is non-tidal but big seas and onshore winds will affect the routes available to climb. Some of the routes can be prone to seepage too after heavy rain and the crag is best visited after a decent dry spell and is really only a summer/autumn crag.
The rock is horizontally banded sandstone and is generally not loose but the thin plates can be a bit snappy underfoot. Small/micro cams are generally quite useful (especially for the Starling Wall) and, whilst not essential, offset cams can be quite handy too.
Head through Stromness and park at the old buildings where the path begins for heading up to the Black Craig weather station. Cross the fence at the stile and follow the path down the hill. After 20 or so minutes you will see another fence with a stile. Where the fence meets the cliffs is the scrambling access down to the main Geo.
Alternatively, park at Mousland farm and walk to the cliffs before heading east along the coast. Possibly slightly quicker but involves hopping fences and walking through fields and is far less scenic.
You could also access from Yesnaby by walking back along the coast towards Stromness which is an enjoyable and scenic route but takes conisderably longer than the above options.
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