Climbs 50
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 850m a.s.l
Faces S

Thanatos © Jonas Wiklund

Crag features

Hollenderan provides some of the finest Granite climbing to be found anywhere, with exceptional rock quality.  Many of the routes follow pristine cracks of various sizes, though the routes also provide a lot of variety and are generally sustained but well protected. The climbs are up to 250 high and there are some fixed abseil descents in place.

Good topo here:

http://www.blixt.no/KvaloyaArchives/hollenderan/baugen/baugenRoutes.shtml 

Approach notes

The wonderfully situated climbing cabin provides a perfect base for climbing here. There are two approaches: from the east about 3 hrs of scenic but hard hiking (not recommended), with the west approach 1.5 - 2.5 hrs depending if you know the way.

An almost perfect crag. Every route is sustained on perfect rock (conveniently forgetting the 50 m of choss that protects the start of most routes). Protection is plentiful and dead solid. A must visit for lovers of granite cracks. Bring one and a half set of nuts with doubles in mid-to-large sizes (#5 to #9; yes you read that correctly! doubles in the *large* sizes!) and 2 set of friends from fingers to wide hands, and possible a fist piece too. Climbers used to the grades in Lofoten are in for a rude awakening.
Jonas Wiklund - 31/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  zapffetoppen vestveggen
2 Rett Vest
-
n7- ** 1
3 Vesterveg
-
n5+ *** 4
  Zapffetoppen Sydveggen
5 De Elendige
-
n6- *** 1
6 Midruta n5+ *** 2
7 Bananrisset n7- ** 1
  Lanterna
9 Lanterna n5- ** 1
  baugen sydvestveggen
11 Halvmånerisset n6+ *** 4
12 Gemini n7 *** 1
13 Svart Hav n7- *** 2
14 Flygende Hollender n6 *** 3
15 Ikaros n7- *** 1
16 Thanatos n7+ *** 1
17 Krumtappen n6+ *** 2
18 Ballongsnoppen n6+ ** 1
  baugen sydveggen
20 Alekos n7- *** 2
21 Alexis n6+ *** 7
22 Silhuetten n6+ *** 7
23 Baugsprydet
-
n6- *** 2
24 Mannen Med Ljaen n6+ *** 2
  baugen ostveggen
26 Stjernedans n6- ** 6
27 Gallionsruta n5+ ** 1
28 Varussen n5- ** 4
  STYRMANNSTIND
30 Supertanketom n6 ** 1
31 TUB * n6+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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