Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, France has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.
Altitude 490m a.s.l
Audrey Seguy on Un Nouveau Monde Right (7b+) Malaucène © Adrian Berry
While Malaucène (strictly speaking 'Rochers du Groseau') isn't an extensive area, and is not exactly a 'happening place', the routes are quite brilliant, and it's not likely you will ever find it crowded.
Most parts of the crag get the mid-to-late afternoon sun, though many of the starts are well-sheltered by trees and some parts get none at all. In the winter the crag can get very cold. Malaucène often seems to get more wind than Saint Léger, so can be a good option for warmer days.
From the town of Malaucène, take the road signed to 'Le Grozeau' and follow this until you reach a campsite and a bar with a small pond opposite it. Fifty metres before you reach the bar, a rough track leads off on the left, follow this and park near the old mine buildings. There are a number of tracks leading up towards the crags, the simplest way is to walk down to the road and follow it past the bar to the pond. From here pick up a trail leading through the woods, soon, the crags appear on the right. The first you come to is short, hard, vertical, and not described - continue to bigger and better things.
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