Climbs 74
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 490m a.s.l
Faces W

Don't Touch The Mother-in-Law © Enty

Crag features

While Malaucène (strictly speaking 'Rochers du Groseau') isn't an extensive area, and is not exactly a 'happening place', the routes are quite brilliant, and it's not likely you will ever find it crowded.

Most parts of the crag get the mid-to-late afternoon sun, though many of the starts are well-sheltered by trees and some parts get none at all. In the winter the crag can get very cold. Malaucène often seems to get more wind than Saint Léger, so can be a good option for warmer days.

Approach notes

From the town of Malaucène, take the road signed to 'Le Grozeau' and follow this until you reach a campsite and a bar with a small pond opposite it. Fifty metres before you reach the bar, a rough track leads off on the left, follow this and park near the old mine buildings. There are a number of tracks leading up towards the crags, the simplest way is to walk down to the road and follow it past the bar to the pond. From here pick up a trail leading through the woods, soon, the crags appear on the right. The first you come to is short, hard, vertical, and not described - continue to bigger and better things. 

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Guidebooks

France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avignon (2006)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Papillon
2 Quart de Cercle 8a  
3 Créscendo 6c+ ** 2
4 Hot Com 3 Pom 5c 1
5 Sale Mome? 5c * 10
6 Dam Ded 6a * 14
7 Oiseaux de Passage 6c+ 3
8 LHOOQ 7b+ **  
9 Péril Jeune 7b **  
10 Refarin Tire Toi 7a *** 25
11 Refarin Tire Toi Extension 7c+ ***  
12 Le Mono 8a ***  
13 Le Mono Extension 8a+ ***  
14 Un Nouveau Monde Left 7c *** 3
15 Un Nouveau Monde Right 7b+ *** 22
16 Un Nouveau Monde Extension 7c+ ***  
17 Moshé 7a+ ** 2
18 Sarah 7a+ ** 6
19 L'Inachevé 7b+ ** 2
20 La Scie des Lapins Bleus 7c **  
21 Chez Jolie 7b ** 4
22 Papillon 6b *** 76
23 Potiron, Citrouille et Cie 6a ** 27
24 Potiron, Citrouille et Cie Extension 6c ** 21
25 Salamandre 7a+ ** 11
26 Touche Pas á la Belle Mère 6b *** 46
27 Pipougne 7a *** 42
  Mal aux Seins
29 Mistouflouette 6b *** 53
30 Cayenne 6c+ 9
31 Frisson d'Automne 6a+ * 17
32 Manque de Tendresse 5a ** 36
33 Espèce Protégée 4c ** 23
34 Entreprise de Travaux Public 4a 14
35 Gros Comme une Maison 5c ** 33
36 La Voie Lactée 6c * 5
37 Cailloux 6b * 12
38 Vas-y-Mulet 6a * 15
39 Mal aux Seins 6a+ ** 12
40 Polarisant 6a+ 2
41 Time Code 6b 1
42 Preview 5a 4
  Du Bas
44 Les Bruits du Silence 6b+ * 6
45 9 Ans 9 Months et Toi 6b+ * 7
46 Fac 51 6c+ 1
47 La Ligne Verte 7b * 1
48 Boulémiquipement 7a+ * 10
49 Con par Raison 7b+ ** 1
50 Taille Illusoire 7b *  
51 Pluie d'Enfer 7b *  
52 Respire 7c+ ** 1
53 Snow Chaud 7a * 16
54 Mon Elle du Désir 6b+ ** 31
55 Petits Petons 7b ** 2
56 Brise les Chaînes 7a * 16
57 Fin des Stocks 7a+ *  
58 Les Mini Pousses 7b ** 6
59 Pousse-Pourri (AKA Enty's Link up) 7b *** 2
60 Politicopourri 7b *** 16
61 Une Journée de Merde 7a+ ** 7
62 Travaille Célébrale 6b * 22
63 Ni Pute Ni Soumise 6a+ ** 24
  Gros Zozo
65 Deux Kilo Six 7b+ *  
66 Et Plus Encore 7c+ *  
67 Le Zoulou Blanc 8b *  
68 Le Gros Zozo 7b ** 3
69 Piétra Gala 8a **  
70 Voyage au Centre de la Mere 8b *  
71 La Complainte des Petits Enfants 7c *  
72 Putain de Toi 7b ** 1
73 Déroutage 7b *  
74 El Pitchoun 7a+ *  
75 Jolly Jumpeur 7b *  
  159
77 Feeling *
-
6b+ * 4
78 Womad * 6c * 4
79 Kamakiriad * 6c * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83