Climbs 80
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 197m a.s.l
Faces N

Psykovsky's Sequins © Jake Hampshire

Crag features

Danby crag has sprong from nowt to stake its claim as Moors crag du premiere. It is, quite literally, well good. A large crag it be too, with out-crop-esque to the west and big, fat agressive buttri to the east. Draw de Top aretes, scoops, walls and little finger, long figure masterpieces. It's a crag that loves you, if you don't approach it with a sack full of cliches about what a dump it is. Quite simply:

The best lines you've ever seen everywhere you look!


The crag should be given a day to dry out after heavy rain, but often the exposed buttresses (particularly the aretes) can be dry within hours. Some light brushing may be needed if venturing off the beaten track.

Many of the VDiffs to the west of the crag are quite stiff, but well worthwhile. Chimney and Wall (Severe**), Danby Crack (VS 4c**), Valiant (HVS 5a***) and Osiris (HVS 5a**) are the classic mid-grade routes of the crag and great outings. There is then a bit of a jump in grades, with 'Palma Ham' (E2 6b), 'Stalin' (E3 5b**)'The Jungle drum' (E3 5c**), 'The Polish Diplomat' (E5 6b*), 'the Otter wilderness route' (E6 6b**), 'The Breaking Wheel (E5 6c)' and the Chocolate Moose (E4 6b**) offering a great day out in the mid extremes.

The Hypocrisy of Moose (H8 6c***) was the only harder route at the crag to have been led, but has now been joined by 'Howl Psyche' (E7 6b**), Die By The Sword (H7 6c*) and 'The Battle For Tripoli'(E6 6a*) (all on the same buttress).

In 2013, Psykovsky's Sequins (H8/9 7a) was added, which bends the mind almost as much as it bends the fingers. 2014 saw the birth of Fly Agaric (H8 7a) and Elysian Fields (E7 6a**). Later on, Powerslave (E6 6a), Ebola Tombola (H8 6b), Infinity in a Grain of Sand (H8 6c) and Anubis (E6 6b).


Perhaps with time a great surge of routes upto and beyond H9 will come, certainly many of the current projects are of a superb quality. The Mono Wall offers an exceptional crux in a dangerous position, whilst the Wangledoodle Wall is relatively safe, but sustained with many hard moves. At the other end of the scale is the blunt arete, which is just one utterly desperate slabby move above a bad fall. Beyond that are the realms of the truly futuristic lines- things like the impossible arete direct, that is incomprehensible at the moment. In any case there are projects in every style really and a lot will be 2 or even 3 stars.

A small amount of good quality bouldering is also available, with more to be developed. A couple of boulder problems of particular note are 'The Chocolqte Moose' and 'The Effervescent Pheasant', which are some of the best problems in the North York Moors.

Approach notes

Up to three cars can be parked at the bend on the minor road at GR739068,
otherwise park just inside the gate of the track leading up to Head
House farm.

* Climbing is banned between 1st November and 31st May. *


Approach the crag on the bridleway & cross the wall by the stile
above the crag.

See climbonline for details on crag bans.

Access Advice

Only climbers who are members of the BMC or affiliated to it may use this crag [Landowner's request for insurance purposes]. All climbers before visiting or organising a meets programme must contact Peter Snaith [tel:01287 660224, email:p.snaith@dawnay.co.uk]to check that shooting is not taking place.

Owl Buttress fell down around 2013, new routes are being developed.

There was rockfall on the North West Buttress in 2014 around Broken Chimney and Birch Crack. Approach these routes with caution.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 November to 31 May

Reason: Public Safety

The seasonal ban from November through until the end of May is for users' safety due to shooting / deer management in the woods below the crag.

Guidebooks

Great Crag for the Severe leader, the VS/HVS leader; the E4/5 leader and the E7 leader. There are some brill lines on good rock and more ready for the taking. Some routes might need a quick brush, but they tend to clean up quite quickly and it drys very fast, which is odd for a north facer in trees...
Franco Cookson - 29/Sep/11
Once a disappointing crag, lacking in routes over HVS and a general feeling of neglect, it is quickly becoming an extensive and quality crag. Some of the original strong lines; Valiant, Portcullis, Osiris and Vulcan provide excellent climbing and the area is host to many newly developed routes and FA's too. Jungle Drum (E4 6a) and The Hypocrisy of Moose (E7) are brilliant climbs, comparable to many of the classic lines on Gritstone. The crag now boasts a slab climb too, 'Palma Ham' E2 6a which can be bouldered out at a high Font 6c and the nearby 'Chocolate Moose' (E4) can be bouldered at a highball font 6c+. Still plenty to do and the routes are worthy of repeats. Get to it!
Dave Warburton - 16/Aug/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Polish Jungle
2 King of the Swingers HVS 5a * 2
3 The Jungle Drum E3 5c ** 6
4 The Polish Diplomat E5 6b 4
5 China Sock E3 5c * 2
  The Eastern Wall
7 Powerslave E6 6a 1
8 Ebola Tombola E7 6b 1
  The Guillotine
10 Barrel Highball Proj. E7 6c?  
11 Aerial Gully
-
VD 1
  Radar
13 Isis HVS 5b *  
14 Osiris HVS 5a * 2
15 Nephthys E4 6a 1
  Bay Of Pigs
17 Stalin E2 5b * 2
18 Roosevelt VS 4c ** 1
  The Wangledoodle Wall
20 The Crack Project E8 7a? *  
21 The Wangledoodle Wall E10 7b? 1
22 Impossible Arete Project E10 7b?  
  Owl Buttress
24 Portcullis VS 5a 3
25 Amun-Ra HVS 5a ** 4
26 Elysian Fields E7 6a ** 3
  Twin Aretes
28 The Battle For Tripoli E6 6a * 3
29 Howl Psyche E7 6b * 2
30 The Otter Wilderness Route E6 6b ** 2
31 The Moose E8 6c *** 3
32 Bastile HS 4b *  
33 Die By The Sword E7 6c * 4
34 Live by the Sword * E4 6b  
35 Three Brexiteers E4 6a 1
36 Brexshit E2 5c 1
37 The Effervescent Pheasant f6C *** 2
  Beacon
39 Sodom
-
S 1
40 Beacon Groove
-
D 8
41 Valiant VS 5a ** 23
42 Trance Dance E7 7a 1
43 Psykovsky's Sequins E8 7a ** 3
44 Chimney and Wall HS 4a ** 22
45 Frowning Buttress E8 7b?  
  The Ravine
47 Infinity in a Grain of Sand E8 6c 2
48 Bracken Corner
-
D 2
49 Horus HS 4b 4
50 Tendril
-
VD 3
51 Silo HS 4
52 Little Greenhopper S 4b 3
53 Creeper Wall VD ** 11
54 Pearl Jam S 4b 2
55 Nemesis
-
VS 4c 4
56 The Breaking Wheel E5 6c 1
57 Ripple E5 6c ** 3
58 Dark Star E7 6c ** 2
59 Vulcan
-
VS 4c * 2
60 Fly Agaric E8 7a ** 3
61 Chocolate Moose E4 6b ** 7
  Ravine Boulders
63 Palma Ham f6C 2
64 Marine Band Traverse f6C 1
65 Vulcan Bloc Arete f6B+ 2
  The Western Bays
67 Western Highball Project
-
E5 6c?  
68 Anubis E6 6b ** 1
  North West Buttress
70 Genevieve
-
D 1
71 Birch Crack
-
VD 7
72 Broken Chimney
-
HD 6
73 Mood Indigo
-
VD ** 17
74 Castle Crack VD 4a 4
75 Mussel Memory VS 4c * 3
76 Castle Ridge VS 4c ** 19
77 Castle Chimney
-
D * 16
78 Beacon Chimney S 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson