Climbs 160
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces S

Making use of some very tiny holds. © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Quarried granite: very slippery when wet. Many excellent routes at all grades, on generally sound rock, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Recommended: Simanon Direct (HVS 5a), Eyefull Tower (E2 6a, or 5a with 1pt aid). There has been alot of re bolting work done here with the adition of some new sport routes.

There are kestrels(?) nesting at the top of Man of Double Deed/ Lemon Tree. 11/05/10

Approach notes

Be wary of some of the older pegs; back up if possible.

Located on the S slopes of Stowe Hill, 0.5miles from the village of Minions. A rough track leads from the village to the main quarry area - 15 mins walk.

The Duchy of cornwall are now not allowing groups groups to use the quarry. This is due to one of the mine shafts colapsing, which in turn has made a large hole in the track. This hole is impressive and dangerous but with a 30ft perimiter fence around it. This should'nt affect normal climbers (those of use that love quarries, climbing in our own free time). Groups under insturuction looking to use it should use a lower track from the car-park wich bring you out on the east side of the quarry by Sunset Arete Wall (P95 in the Cheesewring Guide)

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 January to 14 January

Reason: Heritage

Peregrine falcon have been reported to be nesting on the E side of the main face - if you observe the birds, please avoid routes in this area until 30th June.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Gave Trouble With Lichen a good clean today 30.06.2014
Tom Last - 30/Jun/14
An excellent and varied venue. I've spent around 4 weeks there and there's still tons to do. Alot of the classics in the quarry are well rounded due to the Commandos training there in the 1940's with hob nails, be wary of some of the classic route gradings. This place is pretty popular with groups but they are mostly confined to the southern area and the lower part of the main wall. There is an excellent little cafe, plenty of parking and he sells the guide book too. (cheesewring and south east cornwall). Heger Tor is near and provides some excellent gritty bouldering. A top day out.
stuart wilkes - 29/Jul/03
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Southern Outcrop
2 Left Arete S 4b 57
3 Best Wishes, Yours Hopefully, Etc etc... E2 5c 3
4 Learner Route D 3b 137
5 Variation Start 2 S 4c 43
6 Variation Start VD 4b * 132
7 Moss Trap E1 5a 24
8 Half Route Half Boulder Problem E3 5c 19
9 Destruction in a Granite Setting f7B ** 2
10 Central Corner HVS 5b 54
11 Debutante E3 6a * 21
12 Oldboy HVS 5b 24
13 Corner Seat HS 4b 50
14 The Garden Gate HVS 5a * 52
15 Garden Wall HS 4c 60
16 Scot Free E1 5c 5
17 Right Arete HS 4b 14
  Bay Entry
19 Chocolate Hobnob HVS 5a 3
20 Half Man Half Biscuit E3 6a 7
21 Petherwin Brothers and a Sister E1 6a 12
22 Dwarfs Dream E1 5c 2
23 Thumb Sparg Traverse V4  
24 Problem 2 V1 5c 3
25 Problem 3 Overhanging Arete V1 5c 5
26 Problem 4 V0 5b 5
27 Snatch
-
HVS 5b 2
28 Not a Patch on Harry Patch HVS 5b * 3
29 Family Guy VS 5a 3
  The Bay
31 Fingerbob
-
E2 5c  
32 Watchman
-
E3 5c  
33 Crucifier 7a+ 11
34 Cosmic Joker
-
7b  
35 Pooh Pooh
-
E3 5b 2
36 Sheep Shit Shooter E3 6a  
37 Sidekick
-
VS 4c 2
  Western Outcrop (Left side)
39 Rabbit Arete
-
VS 4c 5
40 Feline Adventures 6b+ 67
41 33 Chillies 6b 16
42 Daisy's Flapjack 6a+ 17
43 Foxglove Arete VD 4b 5
44 Stonewood 6a+ 8
45 Volkers Visit S 4b 7
  Agent Provocatuer Wall
47 Gay Orange Bag VD 5
48 West Point 6b 57
49 Potential Energy 6c+ * 51
50 Micro Generator 6c 3
51 Double Agent 7a+ ** 103
52 Double Trouble
-
E3 6a 6
53 Agent Provocateur 7b * 47
54 Trouble with Lichen E3 6a ** 55
55 Corner Route
-
S 4a 41
56 Space Hopper 6c+ * 9
57 Hopscotch 7a * 1
58 Sweet Surrender 7c *  
59 Tag 7b ** 5
  Westren Outcrop (Central Bay)
61 Mike's Route
-
S 4a 12
62 Hard Won E2 5c 2
63 Nocturne VS 4c 15
64 Central Route VS 4c * 54
65 Second Class Return
-
E2 5c 7
66 One Way Ticket
-
E2 5b 3
67 Chance
-
E4 5c 2
68 Direct Route VS 4a * 50
69 Backbreaker
-
VD 12
70 Sentry Box
-
S 4a 11
  Main Face
72 Long Shanks Leap
-
E1 5b 2
73 Steps Arete
-
S 4a 42
74 The Purple Revrac HS 4b * 183
75 Heart of Darkness
-
E2 5b 4
76 Blackberry Wall
-
HVS 5b 4
77 Birdline
-
E1 5c  
78 "Our Carver"
-
7c  
79 Rampage 7b *** 11
80 Hot Lava
-
7c  
81 Simanon Direct HVS 4c ** 114
82 Simian
-
E3 5c 2
83 Simanon direct direct E1 5c 5
84 Mecca
-
HVS 5a * 17
85 Facing Mecca E2 5b 3
86 The Trampoline
-
HVS 4c 19
87 Problem 8 Gila's Wall
-
V0 5a 4
88 Problem 9 Merlin's Chimney
-
VB 4b 4
89 Problem 13 Left side of Right Arete
-
V2 5c 3
90 Lesser Men 6a 7
91 Fair one 7a 4
92 Silva Grey the Other-way E4 6a 2
93 Silva Gray
-
E2 6a * 4
94 Black Sabbath
-
E5 6a a2  
95 Bored of wring
-
E5 6a  
96 Le Tour
-
7a  
97 Dead Exit
-
E4 6a * 5
98 Traditional Values? E3 5c  
99 Eyefull Tower E2 6a *** 56
100 Eyefull Tower (Original Route) HVS 5a/a2 *** 21
101 High Noon E2 5c * 13
102 High Noon/Mauritius E3 6a *** 4
103 Mauritius
-
7b  
104 Black Panther E5 6b a3 ** 1
105 Super Indirect E4 6a a2  
106 Talking Heads 7b 3
107 Real live Wire 7b 2
108 Psycokiller 7c+ *** 7
109 Wrings of Change 7c * 2
110 Wrings of Change Extension 7c * 1
111 Special Radius
-
A3  
  The Fortress walls
113 Rene
-
E4 6a 5
114 Warrior 6c ** 130
115 Friend or Foe? 7a+ ** 17
116 Slingshot 7b+ ** 6
117 Special Offer
-
E3 6a 4
118 Bump Start E3 5c  
119 Scapegoat S 4a 13
120 Pinnacle Route VD 9
121 Hypodermic Like This HS 4b * 9
122 Fortress Indirect
-
S 4a 5
123 Hypothermic Like That HVS 5a ** 4
124 Fortress Direct
-
VD 7
125 Anthony
-
VS 4c 4
126 Traitor's Gate
-
HS 4b * 52
127 Famous Last Words E1 5b  
128 Khyber Wall E2 5c ** 43
129 Khyber Pass 7a * 2
  Orange Slab
131 Young Hunting
-
E1 5b 3
132 Sarah Louise E3 5b/c 2
133 Juliet's Balcony HVS 5a * 61
134 The Crystal Maze
-
E3 5c  
135 Gone To Pot 6c+ 2
136 Beast of Revelation
-
E1 4c 8
137 Man of Double Deed
-
HS 4b 24
138 Lemon Tree HS 4b ** 71
  Lemon Tree Slabs
140 Unnamed
-
S 4b 24
141 The Vandal
-
E3 6a 11
142 Gorst HVS 5a 2
143 Peter VD * 121
144 Figuzzi HS 4b ** 174
145 Star Fox HVS 5a * 36
146 Thorndyke HS 4b 25
147 Mr. Kensuke Miyagi E1 6a 7
148 Jane
-
D 29
149 Sue M 33
150 Sunset Arete VS 4c 157
151 Cheese Disease
-
E1 5a 29
152 P.M.C.
-
E1 5a 8
153 Risky
-
HS 4b 12
154 Forty Five VD 4c 27
155 Wall Flower HS 4b 8
156 Barny Rubles Risky Finish E1 5b ** 3
157 Sarah VD 4a 20
  The Traverses
159 Gather Darkness
-
E3 5c ** 2
160 Merlin's Traverse
-
D 3
161 Combine D 4a 4
162 Reborn Again III ** 1
  Boulders ont More
164 Cheesewring boulders VB all ** 2
165 Dead Exit's Start - Problem 7 V3 6a 2
166 Problem 15 V0- 4c 3
167 Problem 24 VB 4b 2
168 Problem 25 VB 4a 2
169 Problem 14 V2 6a 2
170 Garden Wall Direct E1 5c 3
171 A$$, A$$, A$$ * D 3b  
172 The Steps * M 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer mosseee