Climbs 100
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 725m a.s.l
Faces S

View from El Flare crags Abdet, Costa Blanca © Dick Gerrish

Crag features

Beyond Guadalest the new coach-road reverts to a more-usual narrow gauge as it winds up into the hills on its way over to Alcoi and the interior. There is a lot of rock up here, and as ever, much of it is undeveloped. Tom Phillips has adopted the Abdet area over a number of years and has done much to develop the climbing in this corner of Spain. Here is a small selection of what is on offer, check out his website for details of a lot more climbing in the local area, plus some useful accommodation www.abdet.com.

The cliffs described here generally face south-ish, so are a good bet on clear calm winter days. They can be cold if the weather is grey or windy, and they will be hot in the summer despite being at an altitude of around 600m. The rock isn't the quality of Sella or Toix, and much of it is very sharp. Despite this, there is plenty of good sport hereabouts, and it is another venue to add into the mix.

Approach notes

From the coast, follow the CV-70 past Polop all the way to Guadalest (20km). Turn left and continue (still on the CV-70) for another 6.5 km to a right turn to Abdet. Drive down over the river. After 700m, a concrete track branches off left - this is the approach to the crag. 100m further round the bend is parking on the right-hand side of the road with room for few cars.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)
Quality of the rock is dubious, especially on the lower section of the pillar. Might be worth a quick look if you're staying nearby and only have a short weather window, but not worth travelling any distance for.
Antd - 15/Sep/15
After reading the generally positive comments about the Abdet crags, we were quite disappointed in the quality of the rock there. It's really not worth the drive up, as the limestone is generally quite poor and loose although the area is stunning and the views are beautiful.
rexybo - 13/Sep/15
We stayed in Abdet knowing there was a smaller crag near by. We traveled around quite a lot to lots of bigger more well known areas with so called top 50 climbs, only to find my favourite area was the Abdet crag. Well bolted routes, no polish and not busy. Perfect couple of days climbing!
mattbighead - 03/Apr/13
started at the jabali lower pinnacle which was ok; tried to move up to 'high buttress' but it is seriously overgrown. Then went off to 'main wall' which was much better, and super-easy to get to. will be back.
Jonathan Emett - 16/Mar/12
Nice climbing. No polish. Easy access.
hollybank - 11/Apr/11
Great routes, well bolted and lacking the polish that many areas of Spain have. Good range of routes and grades with more being developed all the time.
Dylan Nells - 08/Mar/11
Some very interesting routes, well bolted and I'd love to have a beer with Tom to discuss the grades.
andif - 11/Feb/11
Great climbing for those in F5-6 grades. Rock very good, even the suspect stuff is solid. Until we met up with Tom we had Crag to ourselves, fabulous views, well bolted warm and sunny on 2nd Jan, what more can U ask for.
steve_foster - 06/Jan/09
Nice climbing with shade available. Very well bolted and no polish with easy access. Say no more ! A quality venue well worth seeking out.
biscuit - 24/Aug/08
What a nice place to climb! Well bolted routes (lower off's you need to thread your rope), nice easy 10 minutes walk from Abdet, we only climbed on the Jabali pinacles, belay in the shade, next time main crag, loved it.......... Stu
Stu Tyrrell - 03/Jun/08
Some great routes and excellant rock here - usually better than they look - but there is still a lot of brittle rock around and a little too much vegetation
Chris the Tall - 11/Feb/08
If you like good unpolished rock in quiet and unspoilt surroundings then this area is well worth a visit. There is a mix of sports and trad. I spend three days there just after x mas 06 and enjoyed long single pitch (up to 35 m)sports routes, and even completed a project with permission from the friendly 'local' Tom Phillips. I will be back again, bringing my rack to do some trad (proper!) climbing.
JulianMaund - 15/Jan/07
We stayed for a week in Abdet and spent a day climbing here but could easily have climbed for several more. Fantastic rock quality, lovely well bolted single pitch routes and an amazing setting. Well worth a visit.
Andy - 04/Oct/06
Last week I visited these crags with two fellow climbers. We climbed on Jalbi upper and lower pillar, in the grades 4+ to 6a. My fellow climbers thought that the routes and quality of rock were superb.
Bru - 02/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Gossos and Spanish Daze Buttresses
2 Spanish Haze S 4a  
3 Spanish Daze VD 3a 2
4 Posterior del Perro M  
5 Costillo del Perro E1 5b *  
6 Gossos Pillar VS 4b **  
7 Dan's Dilemma HS 4b  
  Orange Wall - Pared Naranja
9 El Gecko con Pied Blanco y Negro 5a 1
10 La Tortuga 4c 1
  Left Buttress
12 Uno 5a 5
13 Flared 6a+ * 6
14 Si, Lo Hago 6c+ * 5
15 Can yon do it like this? 7a *  
16 Viva Abdet 6a+ * 10
  Liquida Area
18 Piedra Líquida 6a+ ** 3
19 Desviado 6b+ * 2
20 Gema Ocultado 5c * 6
  Almendra Pinacle
22 Cresta 6b+ 3
23 Extraplomo 6c+ * 2
24 La Atracción 6a+ * 6
25 Via Almendra 6a+ *** 15
26 Solo en el Espacio 6a+ ** 1
27 Cerdo 6a * 7
28 Jengibre 5c * 14
  Main Wall (Placa Principal)
30 Marques de Monistrol 6a+ * 8
31 Penúltimo 6b * 2
32 Círculo Blanco 6a+ 4
33 Sin Cava 6a+ 8
34 La Estrella 6b+ 7
35 Via Jardin 6a * 11
36 San Miguel 6a ** 19
37 Mahou 6a 5
38 Fink Brau 5c 3
39 Gentleman's 5a *  
40 Sin Alcohol HVS  
41 Buckler HVS  
  Flare Buttress
43 Blue Pointing 6b * 1
44 Knock on Wood 6c * 3
45 New Years Revolutions 6b+ * 2
46 Second of the First 6a+ 7
47 El Placa 6a * 13
48 Flare Corner E1 5b *  
49 The Trundle HS 4b  
  Olbidada
51 Via Izquierda 5c  
52 Last of the Last 6b ** 1
53 Jareks Route 6b **  
54 Via Central 6a+ ** 2
55 Grande Cabeza Viejo 6b+ ** 1
56 Snakes Alive 7a * 2
  La Bahia
58 Clear Air Stirs 6a * 1
59 Virgin on the impossible 6a+ * 1
60 Real Art Crisis 6b+ * 1
61 Scarier Trials 6b+ * 1
62 Paraiso 6a+ * 2
63 enganoso 6b * 1
64 El Murciélago VD 4a * 1
  Jabali Sectors
66 El Cernícalo 6a 1
67 Dias Halcòn 6a * 1
68 La Aguila 5a * 3
69 Gavilán 5c * 1
  Upper Pinnacle
71 El Borde 5a 10
72 El Punto 5c 14
73 La Rampa 4a 31
74 Potosi 4c * 38
75 La Paz 4a * 29
76 Uyuni 4c * 49
  Wave Sector
78 Primera Ola 5c * 29
79 Segunda Ola 6a * 23
80 Nueva Ola 5c 11
81 Ola de Calor VS 4b * 1
82 Onda Gravitacional HVS 5a * 3
83 A Través de las Olas VS 4a 1
  Lower Pinnacle
85 Vientre del Jabali 6b+ * 19
86 Lovely Jabali 5c ** 96
87 Trotters Trading 6a ** 73
88 Bacon Beauty 5c ** 85
89 Costilla del Jabali 5a * 71
90 La Placa Ocultada 5c * 47
91 La Placa Ocultada 2 4a 54
  Easy Buttress
93 Roller VS vc * 3
94 Hoopoe VD 4a 1
95 Buho S * 2
96 Curruca HS 4a * 1
  High Buttress
98 Aguijón en la Cola 6a 1
99 Crescendo 6b ** 2
100 Escalada 6b+ ** 1
101 Taking the Mick 6a * 3
102 Tengo Que Hacerlo 6a * 3
103 Disminución 6b 1
104 Costilla d'Alistair 6a 1
  Final Buttress
106 Cochabamba VS 4b *  
107 Santiago VS 4b  
108 Sucre HVS 4c *  
  El Arco Sector
110 Sangre en La Roca 6b **  
111 El Rey del Tufa Facil 6a+ **  
112 El Arco 5c *  
  Abdet Pillar
114 Vista de Barranco de Meli 6a ** 9
115 Espolon de L'Abdet 6a+ *** 7
116 Tormenta 6b+ *** 2
117 Truenos (Thunder) 6b+ *** 2

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