Climbs 100
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 725m a.s.l
Faces S

View from El Flare crags Abdet, Costa Blanca © Dick Gerrish

Crag features

Beyond Guadalest the new coach-road reverts to a more-usual narrow gauge as it winds up into the hills on its way over to Alcoi and the interior. There is a lot of rock up here, and as ever, much of it is undeveloped. Tom Phillips has adopted the Abdet area over a number of years and has done much to develop the climbing in this corner of Spain. Here is a small selection of what is on offer, check out his website for details of a lot more climbing in the local area, plus some useful accommodation

The cliffs described here generally face south-ish, so are a good bet on clear calm winter days. They can be cold if the weather is grey or windy, and they will be hot in the summer despite being at an altitude of around 600m. The rock isn't the quality of Sella or Toix, and much of it is very sharp. Despite this, there is plenty of good sport hereabouts, and it is another venue to add into the mix.

Approach notes

From the coast, follow the CV-70 past Polop all the way to Guadalest (20km). Turn left and continue (still on the CV-70) for another 6.5 km to a right turn to Abdet. Drive down over the river. After 700m, a concrete track branches off left - this is the approach to the crag. 100m further round the bend is parking on the right-hand side of the road with room for few cars.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)
Quality of the rock is dubious, especially on the lower section of the pillar. Might be worth a quick look if you're staying nearby and only have a short weather window, but not worth travelling any distance for.
Antd - 15/Sep/15
After reading the generally positive comments about the Abdet crags, we were quite disappointed in the quality of the rock there. It's really not worth the drive up, as the limestone is generally quite poor and loose although the area is stunning and the views are beautiful.
rexybo - 13/Sep/15
We stayed in Abdet knowing there was a smaller crag near by. We traveled around quite a lot to lots of bigger more well known areas with so called top 50 climbs, only to find my favourite area was the Abdet crag. Well bolted routes, no polish and not busy. Perfect couple of days climbing!
mattbighead - 03/Apr/13
started at the jabali lower pinnacle which was ok; tried to move up to 'high buttress' but it is seriously overgrown. Then went off to 'main wall' which was much better, and super-easy to get to. will be back.
Jonathan Emett - 16/Mar/12
Nice climbing. No polish. Easy access.
hollybank - 11/Apr/11
Great routes, well bolted and lacking the polish that many areas of Spain have. Good range of routes and grades with more being developed all the time.
Dylan Nells - 08/Mar/11
Some very interesting routes, well bolted and I'd love to have a beer with Tom to discuss the grades.
andif - 11/Feb/11
Great climbing for those in F5-6 grades. Rock very good, even the suspect stuff is solid. Until we met up with Tom we had Crag to ourselves, fabulous views, well bolted warm and sunny on 2nd Jan, what more can U ask for.
steve_foster - 06/Jan/09
Nice climbing with shade available. Very well bolted and no polish with easy access. Say no more ! A quality venue well worth seeking out.
biscuit - 24/Aug/08
What a nice place to climb! Well bolted routes (lower off's you need to thread your rope), nice easy 10 minutes walk from Abdet, we only climbed on the Jabali pinacles, belay in the shade, next time main crag, loved it.......... Stu
Stu Tyrrell - 03/Jun/08
Some great routes and excellant rock here - usually better than they look - but there is still a lot of brittle rock around and a little too much vegetation
Chris the Tall - 11/Feb/08
If you like good unpolished rock in quiet and unspoilt surroundings then this area is well worth a visit. There is a mix of sports and trad. I spend three days there just after x mas 06 and enjoyed long single pitch (up to 35 m)sports routes, and even completed a project with permission from the friendly 'local' Tom Phillips. I will be back again, bringing my rack to do some trad (proper!) climbing.
JulianMaund - 15/Jan/07
We stayed for a week in Abdet and spent a day climbing here but could easily have climbed for several more. Fantastic rock quality, lovely well bolted single pitch routes and an amazing setting. Well worth a visit.
Andy - 04/Oct/06
Last week I visited these crags with two fellow climbers. We climbed on Jalbi upper and lower pillar, in the grades 4+ to 6a. My fellow climbers thought that the routes and quality of rock were superb.
Bru - 02/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gossos and Spanish Daze Buttresses 
2Spanish HazeS 4a  
3Spanish DazeVD 3a 2
4Posterior del PerroM  
5Costillo del PerroE1 5b * 
6Gossos PillarVS 4b ** 
7Dan's DilemmaHS 4b  
 Orange Wall - Pared Naranja 
9El Gecko con Pied Blanco y Negro5a 1
10La Tortuga4c 1
 Left Buttress 
12Uno5a 5
13Flared6a+ *6
14Si, Lo Hago6c+ *5
15Can yon do it like this?7a * 
16Viva Abdet6a+ *10
 Liquida Area 
18Piedra Líquida6a+ **3
19Desviado6b+ *2
20Gema Ocultado5c *6
 Almendra Pinacle 
22Cresta6b+ 3
23Extraplomo6c+ *2
24La Atracción6a+ *6
25Via Almendra6a+ ***15
26Solo en el Espacio6a+ **1
27Cerdo6a *7
28Jengibre5c *14
 Main Wall (Placa Principal) 
30Marques de Monistrol6a+ *8
31Penúltimo6b *2
32Círculo Blanco6a+ 4
33Sin Cava6a+ 8
34La Estrella6b+ 7
35Via Jardin6a *11
36San Miguel6a **19
37Mahou6a 5
38Fink Brau5c 3
39Gentleman's5a * 
40Sin AlcoholHVS  
 Flare Buttress 
43Blue Pointing6b *1
44Knock on Wood6c *3
45New Years Revolutions6b+ *2
46Second of the First6a+ 7
47El Placa6a *13
48Flare CornerE1 5b * 
49The TrundleHS 4b  
51Via Izquierda5c  
52Last of the Last6b **1
53Jareks Route6b ** 
54Via Central6a+ **2
55Grande Cabeza Viejo6b+ **1
56Snakes Alive7a *2
 La Bahia 
58Clear Air Stirs6a *1
59Virgin on the impossible6a+ *1
60Real Art Crisis6b+ *1
61Scarier Trials6b+ *1
62Paraiso6a+ *2
63enganoso6b *1
64El MurciélagoVD 4a *1
 Jabali Sectors 
66El Cernícalo6a 1
67Dias Halcòn6a *1
68La Aguila5a *3
69Gavilán5c *1
 Upper Pinnacle 
71El Borde5a 10
72El Punto5c 14
73La Rampa4a 30
74Potosi4c *39
75La Paz4a *29
76Uyuni4c *48
 Wave Sector 
78Primera Ola5c *29
79Segunda Ola6a *23
80Nueva Ola5c 11
81Ola de CalorVS 4b *1
82Onda GravitacionalHVS 5a *3
83A Través de las OlasVS 4a 1
 Lower Pinnacle 
85Vientre del Jabali6b+ *18
86Lovely Jabali5c **96
87Trotters Trading6a **72
88Bacon Beauty5c **83
89Costilla del Jabali5a *70
90La Placa Ocultada5c *46
91La Placa Ocultada 24a 53
 Easy Buttress 
93RollerVS vc *3
94HoopoeVD 4a 1
95BuhoS *2
96CurrucaHS 4a *1
 High Buttress 
98Aguijón en la Cola6a 1
99Crescendo6b **2
100Escalada6b+ **1
101Taking the Mick6a *3
102Tengo Que Hacerlo6a *3
103Disminución6b 1
104Costilla d'Alistair6a 1
 Final Buttress 
106CochabambaVS 4b * 
107SantiagoVS 4b  
108SucreHVS 4c * 
 El Arco Sector 
110Sangre en La Roca6b ** 
111El Rey del Tufa Facil6a+ ** 
112El Arco5c * 
 Abdet Pillar 
114Vista de Barranco de Meli6a **9
115Espolon de L'Abdet6a+ ***7
116Tormenta6b+ ***2
117Truenos (Thunder)6b+ ***2

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