Climbs 41
Rocktype Mica schist

Faces SE

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Pylon King enjoying the exposure on Sirius (only HS!) - Lizard point © Mark Davis

Crag features

Incut, reliable rock. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 170ft: many starred HVSs, and the remarkable roof route of Aboriginal Sin (E3 5c).

Approach notes

Tidal in parts.

Some parking available at Lizard Point, or (paid) in the field by the lighthouse. A few hundred metres W is the coastguard lookout (emergency phone). 50m further is a drystone wall, steep on seaward. Abseil descent (as backup) recommended.

To get to the Sirius area, the CC guide is much better as it shows the descent on the topo. The Rockfax guide though accurate is too vague, it's pot luck whether you pick the right line.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Tower Buttress
2 Aboriginal Sin E3 5c ** 5
3 Sirius HS 4b * 94
4 Dreamtime * E2 5c *  
5 Pluto HS 4b 5
  Hollywood Walls
7 Radio Head S 4a 2
8 Battle with an Old Man's Beard! HS 4b 5
9 Lifeboat Callout VS 4c 7
Climb name Grade
10 True Lies VD 6
11 Focus Puller
-
VD 24
12 Best Boy
-
D 20
13 Quo Vadis E1 5a * 45
14 Jive Pansy HVS 5a 4
15 Biggy Features E1 5b 2
16 The Goldrush HVS 4c ** 100
17 Silent Movie VS 4b * 105
18 Limelight HVS 5a ** 79
Climb name Grade
19 Valentino
-
E2 5c * 7
20 Mae West HVS 5a ** 68
21 Lizard of Oz HS 4b 3
22 Quasimodo E1 5b * 48
23 Rendezvous Manque
-
VD 11
24 The Big Heat * E2 5c **  
25 Casablanca * E2 5c * 3
26 Chorus Line VS 4c 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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