Climbs 180
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 36m a.s.l
Faces SW

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first ascent, Small Pets Rejoice © nickcanute

Crag features

The rock type is mostly horneblende schist and there is no real soapstone to speak of though some of the mica schists do have a distinctly shiny appearance. The rock quality is generally good and friction excellent over most of the headland.

It is a complex headland of zawns, cliffs, ridges, slabs, pinnacles and many hidden little nooks with a wide range of climbing, mostly on very good rock, with grades ranging from Moderate to E5 (and, for this coast, the obligatory XS) Recent development over the last two years has been extensive and has uncovered a great adventure playgorund for those determined enough to explore. 

Approach notes

From Predannack Wollas Farm, go over the stone stile in the northern corner of the carpark and follow a signposted path, to join the main coastal footpath near the top of The Diamond Wall, approx 200m north.

The 2017 guide is essential to even begin to locate the various walls, zawns and blocks on this complex section of coastline with numerous individual access routes.

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Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
In spite of extensive hunting and reference to first ascensionists I have been unable to exactly identify the lines of Compensation, Rothko and Pollock at Predannack Head. This will be noted in the new guide unless I find them in the meantime.
hopede - 13/Jun/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Men-te-Heul
  Northern Slabs
  SDMC Pinnacle
  Slab Zawn
5 Embolisation * S 1
6 Dark Secrets * VS 4c 1
7 Korev * VS 4c ** 2
8 Spirit Shadow * HS 4b ** 2
  Pool Zawn
  Booming Zawn
  Pedn Crifton Area
  Downunder Zawn
13 Kangaroo Crack
-
E1 5b * 15
14 Boomerang * HVS 5a * 2
15 The Dunny *
-
S 4a 5
16 Kurangh *
-
E1 5a * 12
17 Ghan Fishing *
-
VD * 8
18 Dreamtime *
-
E1 5a ** 10
19 Aoetearoa
-
HS 4b ** 14
20 Down Under, Up Top *
-
VS 4c *** 29
21 Colonial Solidarity
-
S 4a * 1
22 Feed Me To The Birds * E6 6b ** 1
  Klein Zawn
  The Leaning Pinnacles
25 Life of Brian * E3 5b 2
Climb name Grade
  Pedn Crifton Slabs - North Buttress
27 Colonial Cruise * HS 4b 1
28 Pommie Bastards * VS 4c * 5
29 Bristletail Suicide * HS 4b ** 6
30 Irish Gold * HVS 5a 1
  Pedn Crifton Slabs - South
32 Upstart Colonials * D * 1
33 No Humans Involved * D * 1
  Predannack Main Cliffs
  Black Zawn - Little North Wall
  Grey Slab
  The Black Wall
38 Edge of Darkness
-
E1 5a ** 3
  Main Face
  Octopussy Zawn
41 The World is Not Enough * E1 5a 1
42 Skyfall *
-
E1 5b 1
43 S.P.E.C.T.R.E * E1 5b * 2
44 Little Nellie * S 4b 2
  Wavy Wall Zawn
46 Compensation
-
HVS 5a  
47 Tough Teacher *
-
E3 5c ***  
  Fox Zawn
49 Easy Street
-
S  
Climb name Grade
  Squirrel Zawn
51 Astral Blue * M 2
  Intermediates' Area
  The Beginners' Area
54 Fantasia * E2 5b ** 1
  The Childrens' Walls
  The Diamond Wall Area
57 Disappointment Rib * M 2
58 Small Pets Rejoice on Tufty's Birthday E1 5b * 1
59 Lovelocked * E4 6a ** 1
  The Diamond Wall
61 First Water
-
HS 4a  
62 The Diamond Traverse 6a+ * 2
63 Cut Diamond
-
6b ** 6
64 Koh-i-Nor E2 5b * 8
65 A Girl's Best Friend
-
HS 4a ** 22
66 The Stone 6b+ * 1
  International Buttress
68 Chopper VS 4c 1
69 Golden Slab D 5
70 Entente
-
D 2
71 Cordiale D 6
72 Crank And Slab *
-
HS 4b 3
73 Vuvuzela * HVS 5b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer fly or die