Climbs 180
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

first ascent, Small Pets Rejoice © nickcanute

Crag features

The rock type is mostly horneblende schist and there is no real soapstone to speak of though some of the mica schists do have a distinctly 'shiny' appearance. The rock quality is generally good and friction excellent over most of the headlamd.

It is a complex headland of zawns, cliffs, ridges, slabs, pinnacles and many hidden little nooks with a wide range of climbing, mostly on very good rock, with grades ranging from Moderate to E5 (and, for this coast, the obligatory XS) Recent development over the last two years has been extensive and has uncovered a great adventure playgorund for those determined enough to explore. The Climbers Club is currently working on a new and separate guide to The Lizard.

Approach notes

Tidal.

From Predannack Wollas Farm (SW 669 162) go over the stone stile in the northern corner of the car park and follow a signposted path, to join the main coastal footpath near the top of The Diamond Wall, approx 200 metres north.

In spite of extensive hunting and reference to first ascensionists I have been unable to exactly identify the lines of Compensation, Rothko and Pollock at Predannack Head. This will be noted in the new guide unless I find them in the meantime.
hopede - 13/Jun/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Girl's Best Friend
-
HS 4a ** 15
2 Compensation
-
HVS 5a  
3 Easy Street
-
S  
4 First Water
-
HS 4a  
5 Cut Diamond
-
6b ** 4
6 Koh-i-Nor E2 5b * 4
7 The Diamond Traverse 6a+ * 1
8 The Stone 6b+ * 1
9 Small Pets Rejoice on Tufty's Birthday E1 5b * 1
10 Golden Slab D 5
11 Entente
-
D 2
12 Cordiale D 5
13 Chopper VS 4c 1
14 Edge of Darkness
-
E1 5a ** 3
15 Kangaroo Crack
-
E1 5b * 1
16 Aoetearoa
-
HS 4b ** 2
17 Colonial Solidarity
-
S 4a * 1

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