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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 194
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 371m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Dolis wall at Ash Head © DanniNing

Crag features

A fine, remote crag high on Masham Moor with some good routes up to 10m and excellent bouldering. Don't be put off by the shooting lodges that sit in front of the main buttresses. This is a good crag with great and rather unique rock - though, as with other moorland locations, this can need brushing. The route history is well documented and initial bouldering was developed some years ago. These, and a lot of excellent new additions provide a very good circuit. Landings of the boulder problems are often, though not always, flat. However, the problems can be quite high so a couple of mats are a good idea. As mentioned, lots of new and rediscovered problems so grades and names are tentative. Please email any details.

Approach notes

Open access land. Several ways in, ranging from 30 minutes to 1 hour. Probably best to avoid in shooting season. Dogs are discouraged and need to be kept under close control and restricted to public rights of way. Check Natural England website for general and date limited restrictions to access.

The shortest way is from 100m west of Summer Side Farm where a stone style marks the way. Plenty of parking space on the grass just west.

A much longer way is from the Sypeland parking and along the tracks to drop in from above the crag.

Wild crag, gorgeous in summer, with an overwhelming amount of extremely quality lines on mostly solid rock with enough to keep most entertained for at least 4 visits
AdamBrown - 30/Aug/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  COOMBS CRAGS
  Raider's Roof
3 Coomb Baaaaa Yah f6B 1
4 Ram Ram f6C+ * 3
5 Bleating Ridiculous f6B * 1
6 Coombplete Control f6B * 2
7 Beachcoomber f6B * 3
8 Coomb Raider f6C+ ** 4
9 Coombing Least f6B 2
10 The End of Something Special f6B+ * 2
  Fun Slab
12 The Fat Coomb Stroller f3+ * 3
13 Coomb On, Coomb On f4 * 2
  Alphabet Walls
15 Alphabet Aerobics f6C+ ** 1
16 A Arete f5+ ** 2
17 CoomB Dancing f6A+ * 1
  Big Block
19 Catacoombs f6B+ ** 2
20 Catacoombs Right f6C 1
21 Slash and Burn f5+ ** 1
  BEFORE THE BARN BLOCKS
  Honeymoon Boulder
24 Honeymoon Sweet f6A ** 9
25 Take a Vow f6A+ * 2
26 A Taste of Honey f6B * 2
27 Month of Mead f6C * 2
  Lippy Boulder
29 Lip Up Fatty f6A * 2
30 Buster Bloodvessel f6A+ * 1
  Pumped-up Area
32 Dave's Rib f5+ * 4
33 Pumped-Up Plastic People f7C *** 10
34 PUPP2 f6C+ ** 12
35 Two Step f4 5
36 Heart of the Matter f6B+ * 1
  Garden of Eden (Long wall with low shelf)
38 Hell f5+ 1
39 One Armed Frenchman f6B+ * 6
40 Crimpinology f6C 1
41 Corpus Crimpy f7B ** 7
42 Habeas Crimpus f6C * 6
43 Golden Delicious f5 1
44 Eden Arete f6B 1
  THUNDER CRACK AREA
  Behind the Barn
47 Mustang Sally f6A+ 3
48 Sideways Action f6B * 1
49 The Horn HVS 5a 3
50 The Horn Sitter f6A+ ** 2
51 Barnstorm
-
HS 4b 3
52 Gun Shy f7C+ *** 2
53 Splatomatic f7A *** 9
54 Flake Crack
-
S 1
55 Crack A No-Go f7B+ *** 7
56 Split Arete f6C ** 3
57 Hidden Rib f6C * 1
  Behind the Hut
59 Ashes to Ashes f6B * 1
60 Dust Off E4 6a ** 2
61 Tip Off HVS 5a ** 4
62 Windy Wall S * 4
63 Headstand
-
HS 4a 3
64 Last Rites VS 4c  
  Thunder Crack Bay
66 More Than Life E6 6c *** 1
67 Thunder Crack HVS 5a *** 10
68 Lightning Variation E1 6a ** 4
69 Lightning Start f6A+ ** 10
70 Blue Dawn f7A+ * 1
71 The Storm f6C+ ** 40
72 The Storm (Dyno Variation) f6A+ * 6
73 Right To Roam VS 5a  
74 Up and Under
-
VS 4c 1
75 Ketchum Wall f4+ * 2
  Chicken Heads Wall
77 Over Easy f6A * 2
78 Easy Over f5+ * 3
79 Alien Kiss E1 5c *  
Climb name Grade
80 Alien Kiss Start f5+ * 1
81 Stretch Scoop f6C *** 9
82 Wishbone Ash f6C+ *** 6
83 Chicken Head Rib f6B *** 22
84 Cobalt Wall f6C ** 33
85 Chicken Scoop f5+ * 3
86 Chicken Eddy f6A+ ** 5
87 Rooster Cogburn f6A+ ** 2
88 Wanderlust S 1
89 Shark Attack E1 6a ** 4
90 The Return of the Bantam Menace f6B+ ** 1
91 An Argument With Silence f6A 1
  A Climb Bay
93 A Climb S 6
94 Ledge & Scoop S 2
95 Hitchcock Arete f6A * 5
  SCOOP WALL BLOCK
97 Grot Knows f4 4
98 Step To It f4 * 6
99 Nuggets f4 ** 9
100 Easy Lay f2 * 7
  Scoop Wall
102 Not Again f6A+ * 8
103 Do It Again f6B+ * 9
104 Boomstick Wall f6C+ ** 14
105 Methane f6B+ * 2
106 Chicken Shit f5+ *** 31
107 Kneeolithic f7A+ ** 11
108 Kneeolithic SS V7 1
109 Bruce Almighty f5+ * 3
110 Knees Must f7A *** 31
111 Knees Must SS f7A+ ** 3
112 Look-alike f6A+ * 3
113 Delicatessen Girl f6C+ 1
114 Pallet Town Edge f5+ * 5
  RHOMBIC BLOCK
  Green Side
117 The American Girl VS 4b  
118 The Actress VS 4c  
119 Gangreen HS 4b 1
  North Side
121 Roooster's Rib f6C *** 20
122 Cockerel Wall f6B *** 31
123 Cockerel Eliminate f6C+ 2
124 The Result HS 4b 2
125 Result Start f4+ ** 35
126 The Thigh's the Limit f6C * 12
127 Hole Chicken f6C ** 19
128 Gone With the Wing f6C ** 9
129 The Chicken In Black f7A 1
  West Side
131 The True Knobbler E1 6a  
132 The Tea Party HVS 5c  
133 Rhyme
-
S 4
134 Rhythm
-
S 4a 4
135 Easy Ridge M 7
136 Finale
-
S 4a 2
  WEST BLOCKS
138 The Drill Press f7B+ ** 8
139 Drill Press Stand f7A 7
140 Sloane Rangers f8A **  
141 Ke-mo sah-bee f7B * 1
142 Drill Sergeant f6A ** 2
143 The Chuck f6A+ 1
144 Debt f4 2
145 Counsellor f6A+ * 2
146 Forsaken f5 2
  GIANT BLOCKS
  Heather Top
149 Flakey Pastry f4+ * 9
150 Gordon's Slab f5 8
151 Warm-Up Wall f6B * 12
152 Eric's Wall f6A * 16
153 Eric's Arête f4 14
154 Ain't No Yoke f4+ 6
155 Steve's Arête f4+ 6
  The Bay
157 Dynominator f7A+ * 3
158 The Great Divide f6B ** 5
Climb name Grade
159 Revelator f6C *** 8
160 smAsh Head f7A * 1
161 The 3rd Nipple f7A ** 1
162 "For When the Nipple Breaks" V8+ 1
163 Labour's Pains f4+ 1
  Banded Walls
165 Paradise Rib f6B * 1
166 Bev's Traverse f5 * 1
167 Tears in Rain f7A * 3
168 Tannhauser Gate f6A ** 3
169 The Shoulder of Orion f6B ** 2
  Crackin' Block
171 Jail Bait f5 * 3
172 Pilgrim f5 * 3
173 Time Was f7A * 3
174 Sometime World f6B+ *** 10
175 Pheonix f5+ * 4
176 Leaf and Stream f2 * 5
177 Entrance Slab f2 4
  The Pit (Below hanging block)
179 The Edge f5+ * 3
180 Pit Arete f6C * 3
181 Tyrannosaurus Brexit f6C * 2
182 Black Tufa f5+ ** 16
183 The Squealer f6C+ * 2
  Low Block - Blunt Nose
185 Twisting the Dragon's Tail f6C ** 1
186 Left Wall f5 2
187 Cherknobyl f6C+ * 3
188 Big Scoop f5+ * 11
189 Hanging Groove f5 * 9
190 Big Nose f6A+ * 4
191 Hole Arête f6A ** 2
192 Logans wall f6A 1
193 Easy Wall f4 4
194 Highball Exit f4+ 3
195 Hitchcock Wall f6A ** 2
  FLYING FLAKE BLOCK
197 Flying Wall f6C * 2
198 Flying Flake f5 * 7
199 Flying Arête f5 * 7
200 Slab Arête f3 6
201 Red Edge f5 * 12
202 Red Rag f5 * 17
203 Red Nose f4+ 15
204 Ready, Steady, Go f5+ * 8
  FORWARD BLOCK (In front of buildings).
206 Solid Air f6B * 20
207 Curl You f6B * 21
208 Easy Living f3 21
209 Rock On f4+ * 17
210 Dolis Wall Variant f6B * 6
211 Dolis Wall f6C *** 52
212 Dolis Dyno f6C ** 6
213 Barn Door f6A+ * 15
  LOWER TIER/KNAPPA STONES (In front and slightly below main area)
  THE FINGER
216 The Finger f5+ * 2
  THE JUMBLE
218 Chuckberry f6B+ ** 2
  BILBERRY BLOC
  Left (Uphill)
221 Pie's the Limit f6C ** 3
222 Rocker f4+ * 3
  Right
224 Bilbo f2+ * 3
225 Bill Worker f5 * 3
226 Bilberry f4+ * 4
227 Billiant f4+ 2
  LOW ROOF
229 The Benevolent Boggart f7A+ ** 3
  BANDED ROOF
231 Bandy f6A 2
  THE CRUISE
233 Voyager f5 ** 1
234 The Voyage Out f4 *** 2
235 Break Fast f4 * 2

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