UKC

Climbs 185
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 371m a.s.l
Faces NW

Dolis wall at Ash Head © DanniNing

Crag features

A fine, remote crag high on Masham Moor with some good routes up to 10m and excellent bouldering. Don't be put off by the shooting lodges that sit in front of the main buttresses. This is a good crag with great and rather unique rock - though, as with other moorland locations, this can need brushing. The route history is well documented and initial bouldering was developed some years ago. These, and a lot of excellent new additions provide a very good circuit. Landings of the boulder problems are often, though not always, flat. However, the problems can be quite high so a couple of mats are a good idea. As mentioned, lots of new and rediscovered problems so grades and names are tentative. Please email any details.

Approach notes

Open access land. Several ways in, ranging from 30 minutes to 1 hour. Probably best to avoid in shooting season. Dogs are discouraged and need to be kept under close control and restricted to public rights of way. Check Natural England website for general and date limited restrictions to access.

The shortest way is from 100m west of Summer Side Farm where a stone style marks the way. Plenty of parking space on the grass just west.

A much longer way is from the Sypeland parking and along the tracks to drop in from above the crag.

Wild crag, gorgeous in summer, with an overwhelming amount of extremely quality lines on mostly solid rock with enough to keep most entertained for at least 4 visits
AdamBrown - 30/Aug/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  COOMBS CRAGS
  Raider's Roof
3 Coomb Baaaaa Yah f6B 1
4 Ram Ram f6C+ * 3
5 Bleating Ridiculous f6B * 1
6 Coombplete Control f6B * 2
7 Beachcoomber f6B * 3
8 Coomb Raider f6C+ ** 4
9 Coombing Least f6B 2
10 The End of Something Special f6B+ * 2
  Fun Slab
12 The Fat Coomb Stroller f3+ * 3
13 Coomb On, Coomb On f4 * 2
  Alphabet Walls
15 Alphabet Aerobics f6C+ ** 1
16 A Arete f5+ ** 2
17 CoomB Dancing f6A+ * 1
  Big Block
19 Catacoombs f6B+ ** 2
20 Catacoombs Right f6C 1
21 Slash and Burn f5+ ** 1
  BEFORE THE BARN BLOCKS
  Honeymoon Boulder
24 Honeymoon Sweet f6A ** 8
25 Take a Vow f6A+ * 2
26 A Taste of Honey f6B * 2
27 Month of Mead f6C * 2
  Lippy Boulder
29 Lip Up Fatty f6A * 2
30 Buster Bloodvessel f6A+ * 1
  Pumped-up Area
32 Dave's Rib f5+ * 3
33 Pumped-Up Plastic People f7C *** 7
34 PUPP2 f6C+ ** 8
35 Two Step f4 3
36 Heart of the Matter f6B+ * 1
  Garden of Eden (Long wall with low shelf)
38 Hell f5+ 1
39 One Armed Frenchman f6B+ * 6
40 Crimpinology f6C 1
41 Corpus Crimpy f7B ** 6
42 Habeas Crimpus f6C * 6
43 Golden Delicious f5 1
44 Eden Arete f6B 1
  THUNDER CRACK AREA
  Behind the Barn
47 Mustang Sally f6A+ 1
48 Sideways Action f6B * 1
49 The Horn HVS 5a 3
50 The Horn Sitter f6A+ ** 2
51 Barnstorm
-
HS 4b 3
52 Gun Shy f7C+ *** 1
53 Splatomatic f7A *** 4
54 Flake Crack
-
S 1
55 Crack A No-Go f7B+ *** 3
56 Split Arete f6C ** 1
57 Hidden Rib f6C *  
  Behind the Hut
59 Ashes to Ashes f6B * 1
60 Dust Off E4 6a ** 2
61 Tip Off HVS 5a ** 4
62 Windy Wall S * 4
63 Headstand
-
HS 4a 3
64 Last Rites VS 4c  
  Thunder Crack Bay
66 More Than Life E6 6c *** 1
67 Thunder Crack HVS 5a *** 8
68 Lightning Variation E1 6a ** 4
69 Lightning Start f6A+ ** 10
70 The Storm f6C+ ** 27
71 The Storm (Dyno Variation) f6A+ * 4
72 Right To Roam VS 5a  
73 Up and Under
-
VS 4c 1
74 Ketchum Wall f4+ * 2
  Chicken Heads Wall
76 Over Easy f6A * 2
Climb name Grade
77 Easy Over f5+ * 3
78 Alien Kiss E1 5c *  
79 Alien Kiss Start f5+ * 1
80 Stretch Scoop f6C *** 6
81 Wishbone Ash f6C+ *** 3
82 Chicken Head Rib f6B *** 12
83 Cobalt Wall f6C+ ** 24
84 Chicken Scoop f5+ * 3
85 Chicken Eddy f6A+ ** 5
86 Rooster Cogburn f6A+ ** 2
87 Wanderlust S 1
88 Shark Attack E1 6a ** 3
89 The Return of the Bantam Menace f6B+ ** 1
90 An Argument With Silence f6A 1
  A Climb Bay
92 A Climb S 5
93 Ledge & Scoop S 2
94 Hitchcock Arete f6A * 5
  SCOOP WALL BLOCK
96 Grot Knows f4 2
97 Step To It f4 * 4
98 Nuggets f4 ** 6
99 Easy Lay f2 * 4
  Scoop Wall
101 Not Again f6A+ * 7
102 Do It Again f6B+ * 7
103 Boomstick Wall f6C+ ** 10
104 Methane f6B+ * 1
105 Chicken Shit f5+ *** 24
106 Kneeolithic f7A+ ** 7
107 Bruce Almighty f5+ * 3
108 Knees Must f6C+ *** 22
109 Look-alike f6A+ * 3
110 Delicatessen Girl f6C+ 1
111 Pallet Town Edge f5+ * 4
  RHOMBIC BLOCK
  Green Side
114 The American Girl VS 4b  
115 The Actress VS 4c  
116 Gangreen HS 4b 1
  North Side
118 Roooster's Rib f6C *** 16
119 Cockerel Wall f6B *** 17
120 Cockerel Eliminate f6C+ 1
121 The Result HS 4b 2
122 Result Start f4+ ** 20
123 The Thigh's the Limit f6C * 6
124 Hole Chicken f6C ** 15
125 Gone With the Wing f6C ** 6
  West Side
127 The True Knobbler E1 6a  
128 The Tea Party HVS 5c  
129 Rhyme
-
S 4
130 Rhythm
-
S 4a 3
131 Easy Ridge M 6
132 Finale
-
S 4a 2
  WEST BLOCKS
134 The Drill Press f7B+ ** 7
135 Drill Press Stand f7A 5
136 Drill Sergeant f6A ** 2
137 The Chuck f6A+ 1
138 Debt f4 2
139 Counsellor f6A+ * 2
140 Forsaken f5 2
  GIANT BLOCKS
  Heather Top
143 Flakey Pastry f4+ * 6
144 Gordon's Slab f5 5
145 Warm-Up Wall f6B * 9
146 Eric's Wall f6A * 10
147 Eric's Arête f4 7
148 Ain't No Yoke f4+ 4
149 Steve's Arête f4+ 4
  The Bay
151 Dynominator f7A * 2
152 The Great Divide f6B ** 4
Climb name Grade
153 Revelator f6C *** 7
154 Labour's Pains f4+ 1
  Banded Walls
156 Paradise Rib f6B * 1
157 Bev's Traverse f5 * 1
158 Tears in Rain f7A * 1
159 Tannhauser Gate f6A ** 2
160 The Shoulder of Orion f6B ** 2
  Crackin' Block
162 Jail Bait f5 * 2
163 Pilgrim f5 * 2
164 Time Was f7A * 2
165 Sometime World f6B+ *** 9
166 Pheonix f5+ * 4
167 Leaf and Stream f2 * 5
168 Entrance Slab f2 4
  The Pit (Below hanging block)
170 The Edge f5+ * 2
171 Pit Arete f6C * 2
172 Tyrannosaurus Brexit f6C * 2
173 Black Tufa f5+ ** 15
174 The Squealer f6C+ * 2
  Low Block - Blunt Nose
176 Twisting the Dragon's Tail f6C ** 1
177 Left Wall f5 2
178 Cherknobyl f6C+ * 3
179 Big Scoop f5+ * 10
180 Hanging Groove f5 * 8
181 Big Nose f6A+ * 4
182 Hole Arête f6A ** 2
183 Logans wall f6A 1
184 Easy Wall f4 4
185 Highball Exit f4+ 3
186 Hitchcock Wall f6A ** 2
  FLYING FLAKE BLOCK
188 Flying Wall f6C * 2
189 Flying Flake f5 * 7
190 Flying Arête f5 * 7
191 Slab Arête f3 6
192 Red Edge f5 * 11
193 Red Rag f5 * 14
194 Red Nose f4+ 12
195 Ready, Steady, Go f5+ * 8
  FORWARD BLOCK (In front of buildings).
197 Solid Air f6B * 13
198 Curl You f6B * 11
199 Easy Living f3 11
200 Rock On f4+ * 10
201 Dolis Wall Variant f6B * 5
202 Dolis Wall f6C *** 31
203 Dolis Dyno f6C ** 4
204 Barn Door f6A+ * 11
  LOWER TIER/KNAPPA STONES (In front and slightly below main area)
  THE FINGER
207 The Finger f5+ * 2
  THE JUMBLE
209 Chuckberry f6B+ ** 2
  BILBERRY BLOC
  Left (Uphill)
212 Pie's the Limit f6C ** 3
213 Rocker f4+ * 3
  Right
215 Bilbo f2+ * 3
216 Bill Worker f5 * 3
217 Bilberry f4+ * 4
218 Billiant f4+ 2
  LOW ROOF
220 The Benevolent Boggart f7A+ ** 2
  BANDED ROOF
222 Bandy f6A 2
  THE CRUISE
224 Voyager f5 ** 1
225 The Voyage Out f4 *** 2
226 Break Fast f4 * 2

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