Climbs 41
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 11m a.s.l
Faces S

Gus on Afroman (Cova del Diablo), just before the splashdown. © Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH

Crag features

Mallorca's Cova del Diablo is a masterpiece of architecture, an eye-catching monument to what is conceivable in the fantastical world of DWS. It would be fair to say it's almost certainly the best-formed slice of DWS rock yet found on the planet: a huge, streaked amphitheatre of pocketed limestone, poised above a deep sea of green. It's quite breathtaking, especially on first acquaintance. Of course nothing's that perfect and Diablo has its fair share of snags, just like any crag. It's a little too high and the exits can be tricky, especially when the sea is rough. The routes themselves offer a profusion of pockets and buckets, the angle generally dictates the grade, as the holds are almost always huge! It's worth mentioning that the cove itself, and especially the harder, steeper routes, are prone to considerable condensation in the summer months, so recommended is a later visit, around September-October, when the sun is lower. Also of note is the fact that almost all of the routes here have a crux at less than two-thirds height.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Mallorca

The main guidebook to the climbing on the island for the last 20 years has been published by Rockfax and this new 2016 edition adds to this legacy with another blockbusting volume for the sun-seeking climber. The sport climbing is being written by Alan James and Mark Glaister, and the deep water soloing section is being written by Daimon Beail.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
Mallorca (2011)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Surfing Bird Area
2 You toucha my car, I breaka your face 6a S1 * 1
3 The Italian Job 6b S1 ** 17
4 Swing Both Ways 6c S1 * 6
5 LIV 7a ** 1
6 Surfing Bird 7b S1 *** 2
7 Blue Tuna 6c+ S2 **  
8 Let's Have It! 7c+ S2 **  
9 Iguanodon 7b S0 *** 13
10 Microdot 7b S3 *  
11 Dancing Fool 7c S2 *  
12 Beware of Limbo Dancers 8a+ S2 *  
13 Sunshine and Shadow 8b S3 **  
14 Surfing in the Bar 7a S2 ** 3
15 Hip Hop 7b+ S2 *  
16 Surfer Dead 6c+ S2 ** 20
  The Lobster Area
18 Sea Devil 7a S2 * 8
19 The Lobster 6c+ S2 *** 33
20 Life is too Short to Spend it on Cheap Champagne 7c S2 *  
21 Right Here, Right Now 8a+ S2 **  
22 Loskot and Two Smoking Barrels 8a+ S2 ** 5
23 Ejector Seat 7c S1 *** 23
24 In the Night, Every Cat is Black 8a S1 ** 16
25 Hair Bear 7c+ S1 ** 2
26 Ronatron 7c+ S1 ** 3
27 Afroman 7b S1 *** 59
28 Whiplash 7c S1 ** 8
29 Calamares 6b+ S1 *** 31
  White Noise Area
31 Easy Way Down 4a 23
32 Superwoman 7a+ S0 *** 36
33 Dogging Romp 6a+ S0 *** 60
34 First Impressions 6a S1 * 19
35 Slice of Heaven 5a S1 *** 46
36 Eternal Flame 5c S1 ** 22
37 Felix 5c S1 3
38 Bonobo 5c S2 ** 12
39 Retronobo 5c S1 * 7
40 White Noise 5c S0 *** 105
  Cova Del Diablo - Outlying
42 Tits-Up Traverse 6a S0 3
43 Big Bully 6a+ S3 1
44 The Voyage 6a S0 ** 31
45 Big Pardner 5a * 1

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