Climbs 166
Rocktype Greenstone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Mercury - the obvious line © Kafoozalem

Crag features

Crag database finally sorted out!! Including: Sub-dividing into the many buttresses, putting the routes in the right areas, adding the correct grades and stars, adding daggers that don't have enough information to locate/identify. Hopefully this is useful - please provide any updates to repeated climbs (a lot of climbs in the guide are daggered / unrepeated).

Arguably the best crag in Cornwall but also one of the most complicated, consisting of many separate areas with different abseil approaches and complicated buttress-finding on first acquaintances. A bit of persistent and patience will reveal a host of adventurous routes from single pitch slabs to epic multi-pitches weaving through overhangs. There are classic routes of all grades but due to the nature of the terrain, an experienced and sensible approach is recommended.

Approach notes

From St Agnes on the N coast follow the minor coast road to a turning on the R. Follow rough track to parking near the coastguard station. Due west are most of the buttresses, except 400m NE are Black Walls and America Buttress. Some areas are tidal and abseil approaches are usually required.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)
North Devon and Cornwall (2000)

Out of print:
Further to previous comment and a general lack of updating by the moderator: Demerara is E2 5a with a huge fall potential from the slopey slab crux in the middle, this would be extremely dangerous for a VS leader to get on. Rotwand at least E1 5a - E1 pitch is the top 4c pitch with huge run out on fragile holds and mud. The extremes are better graded.
Fiend - 19/Jul/16
The routes listings are all from the older guidebook. There have been many changes since then to the grades, stars, and even existence of some routes.
Fiend - 26/May/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Skirmish Cliff
2 The Skirmish
-
HVS 5a 8
3 True Love E1 5a ** 1
4 Thunderbolt And Lightning HVS 4c * 1
5 Here to there HVS 4c *** 2
6 Lava Falls E1 5a 2
7 Dusty alan E1 5a 1
8 War without Tears
-
E2 5b 1
9 Ratcliffe Highway
-
HS 4b  
  America Buttress
11 Beresford
-
HVS  
12 America E4 5c *** 27
13 Guernica E6 6a ** 4
14 1492
-
E6 6b *  
15 Ku Klux Klan
-
E6 6b **  
16 Mausoleum E2 5b ** 6
17 Escapist Direct E2 5b  
18 Running on Empty
-
E4 6a 1
19 Excellent Wall
-
E2 5b 1
20 Motion Sickness
-
E3 5c * 1
21 Deceleration Lane
-
VS 4b * 5
  The Black Walls
23 Reality Bypass
-
E4 5c 1
24 Natrel Plus
-
E3 6a  
25 Just Natural E2 5b * 6
26 Razorbill E2 5c ***  
27 Supernatural VS 4b ** 58
28 Phantasm E4 6a *** 10
29 Pierrot le Fou E5 6a *** 1
30 A Sackful of Clowns E1 5b ** 36
31 Cowabunga E3 5c  
32 Massive Attack E4 6a **  
  Coastguard Cliff
34 Crystal
-
VS 4c 7
35 Sluice HVS 5a 4
36 Desire E2 5b ** 5
37 China Grove HVS 5a * 3
38 Crystal Vice HVS 4c 1
39 Missindovey HVS 4c 1
  Left Hand Red Walls
41 Yellow Arete
-
S 4a 4
42 Weighout
-
VS 4c 5
43 Two Score and Ten HS 4a 3
44 The Final Cut
-
E1 5b  
45 Nowhere Man
-
E2 5b * 1
46 Barren Lands
-
E6 6a **  
47 Broadside
-
E3 5b  
48 Ruby
-
E3 5b *  
49 Chicken Flesh
-
E3 5b ** 2
  Right Hand Red Walls
51 The Magic Wand
-
E5 6a **  
52 Gravity's Rainbow
-
E2 5c *  
53 Rotwand E1 4c * 12
54 Downward Bound
-
HVS 4c  
55 Happy Hunting Ground
-
HVS 5a * 1
56 Here and Now
-
HVS 5a  
57 Dark Lady
-
E3 6a  
  Vault Wall
59 Midnight Rambler
-
E2 5b **  
60 The Tomb E4 5c *** 8
61 Rise Above
-
E4 6a  
62 The Vault
-
E1 5a * 5
63 Saviourblade
-
E5 6a 1
64 Wolfstone
-
E6 6b **  
65 Where's Heinz?
-
E4 6a *  
66 Eternity and a Spacious Grave
-
E5 6a  
  The Teflon Slab
68 Killing Time
-
E2 5a  
69 Halcyon Days E3 5b *** 2
70 Bridge of Sighs
-
E5 5c  
71 Bitter Sweet
-
E3 5b *  
72 Demerara E1 5a * 14
73 Blue Skies And Butterflies HVS 5a  
74 Tut Crack VS 4b  
75 Last Exit To St Agnes
-
VS 4b 6
76 Black Night
-
HVS 5a * 5
77 Tempest
-
HS 7
78 Taming The Shrew
-
S 18
79 Eskimo VS 4c 15
  The Baptist Cliff
81 Towards the Light
-
E3 6a **  
82 Aprez-vous
-
E1 5b ** 1
83 The Awakening
-
E3 5c *** 1
84 The Haze
-
E5 6a ** 1
85 Frankly...
-
E4 6b *  
86 Diabolist E1 5c ** 1
87 Why not alan XS 5a 1
88 Welcome to the Human Race
-
E5 6a *  
89 The Baptist
-
E2 5c * 1
90 Elixir
-
E3 5c *  
91 Continental Retreat
-
E1 5b * 1
92 Nativity
-
HVS 5a 3
93 Soma
-
HVS 5a 1
  The Sewage Pipe Cliffs
95 Black Knight HVS 5a * 1
96 Silver Dollar
-
HVS 5a * 6
97 The Marathon Man E1 5a ** 1
98 Castaway
-
E1 5a *  
99 Crystal Voyage
-
E1 5a ** 10
100 Alpha-Beta
-
HVS 5a 1
101 Crash Landing
-
E2 5b  
102 Magic Fly
-
E2 5c * 1
103 Life on Mars
-
E1 5b  
104 The Mercury Connection
-
HVS 5a * 6
  The Mercury Area
106 Quicksilver
-
HVS 5a * 3
107 Mercury E2 5b *** 117
108 Dead Run Down
-
E5 5c ** 1
109 Andromeda Strain E5 5c *** 1
110 Terra Nova
-
HVS 5a 2
111 Silent Witness E2 5b  
  A Buttress
113 Bohemian
-
E2 5b *  
114 Euthanasia
-
HVS 5b  
115 The Arete
-
HVS 4c * 1
116 Blue Meany
-
HVS 4c  
  B Buttress
118 McVitie
-
VS 4c 1
119 Hard Tack
-
HVS 4c 2
120 Fourth Dimension
-
HVS 4c * 1
121 Wageslave HVS 4c 1
122 Starbound
-
HVS 4c  
123 Journey to Ixtlan HVS 4c ** 87
  C Buttress
125 Outside Edge HS 4b 2
126 Sunny Delights E2 5a 1
127 Looking for a Rainbow S 4a * 26
128 Rainbow Games E2 5b *** 66
129 Four for Texas E2 5b ** 49
130 Sundance
-
HS 4a * 15
131 Daydream
-
HVS 5a  
132 Nightride
-
S 4a  
133 The Song of the Shirt
-
HVS 4b  
  South C Walls
135 Sideline
-
VD 2
136 Saline
-
HVS 5a * 2
137 Chimney Route
-
S 4a  
138 Crackline HS 4b ** 5
139 Feline
-
VS 4b 5
140 Fine Line
-
D * 6
141 Bee Line
-
HVS 5b * 2
142 Bubble Trouble
-
HVS 5a 4
143 Cave Wall Traverse HS 4b * 10
144 Absolutely Adit E1 5a 3
145 Inspector Clueso HVS 4c *  
  Indian Buttress
147 Indian Princess D 6
148 Counting Coup
-
S 4a  
149 Blackfoot Trots
-
VS 4c 1
150 The Hairy Men from the East
-
D * 3
151 Crescenda
-
E2 5c  
152 Alex of Gowla E1 5b ** 22
153 Indian Summer E3 5c *  
154 Indian Country E2 5b ** 11
155 Spirit
-
M 1
156 Broken Arrow S * 6
157 Solid Ground E1 5a *  
158 Touch the Earth
-
VS 4c ** 11
159 Shaman
-
S 4a 4
160 Tipi
-
VD 10
161 Red Cloud
-
S 6
162 Ghost Dance
-
HS 1
163 Yellow Hair
-
D  
164 Hopes And Fears VS 4b * 3
165 Big Country D 1
166 Sobering Thoughts VD 3
  Other Areas
168 How the West was Won
-
S * 1
169 Kansas City
-
HVS 5a  
  Submitted without adequate location information
171 Phoenix Nights HVS 5a **  
172 Kate HVS 4c *  
173 Hello Boys! E2 5b  
174 Tit Bits S 4a 3
175 Walking on Sunshine VS 4b  
176 The misadventures of tigs D 1
177 Berlin wall HVS 5b * 2
  Submitted without any useful information
179 Susan
-
E2 5b *** 3
180 Souxie And The Banshees
-
E1 5b * 2
181 Star Wars
-
E2 5b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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