Climbs 166
Rocktype Greenstone
Altitude 49m a.s.l
Faces W

Mercury - the obvious line © Kafoozalem

Crag features

Crag database finally sorted out!! Including: Sub-dividing into the many buttresses, putting the routes in the right areas, adding the correct grades and stars, adding daggers that don't have enough information to locate/identify. Hopefully this is useful - please provide any updates to repeated climbs (a lot of climbs in the guide are daggered / unrepeated).

Arguably the best crag in Cornwall but also one of the most complicated, consisting of many separate areas with different abseil approaches and complicated buttress-finding on first acquaintances. A bit of persistent and patience will reveal a host of adventurous routes from single pitch slabs to epic multi-pitches weaving through overhangs. There are classic routes of all grades but due to the nature of the terrain, an experienced and sensible approach is recommended.

Approach notes

From St Agnes on the N coast follow the minor coast road to a turning on the R. Follow rough track to parking near the coastguard station. Due west are most of the buttresses, except 400m NE are Black Walls and America Buttress. Some areas are tidal and abseil approaches are usually required.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)
North Devon and Cornwall (2000)

Out of print:
Further to previous comment and a general lack of updating by the moderator: Demerara is E2 5a with a huge fall potential from the slopey slab crux in the middle, this would be extremely dangerous for a VS leader to get on. Rotwand at least E1 5a - E1 pitch is the top 4c pitch with huge run out on fragile holds and mud. The extremes are better graded.
Fiend - 19/Jul/16
The routes listings are all from the older guidebook. There have been many changes since then to the grades, stars, and even existence of some routes.
Fiend - 26/May/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Skirmish Cliff 
2The Skirmish
-
HVS 5a 6
3True LoveE1 5a **1
4Thunderbolt And LightningHVS 4c *1
5Here to thereHVS 4c ***2
6Lava FallsE1 5a 2
7Dusty alanE1 5a 1
8War without Tears
-
E2 5b 1
9Ratcliffe Highway
-
HS 4b  
 America Buttress 
11Beresford
-
HVS  
12AmericaE4 5c ***42
13GuernicaE6 6a **6
141492
-
E6 6b * 
15Ku Klux Klan
-
E6 6b ** 
16MausoleumE2 5b **4
17Escapist DirectE2 5b  
18Running on Empty
-
E4 6a 1
19Excellent Wall
-
E2 5b 1
20Motion Sickness
-
E3 5c *1
21Deceleration Lane
-
VS 4b *5
 The Black Walls 
23Reality Bypass
-
E4 5c 1
24Natrel Plus
-
E3 6a  
25Just NaturalE2 5b *6
26RazorbillE2 5c *** 
27SupernaturalVS 4b **70
28PhantasmE4 6a ***7
29Pierrot le FouE5 6a ***1
30A Sackful of ClownsE1 5b **15
31CowabungaE3 5c  
32Massive AttackE4 6a ** 
 Coastguard Cliff 
34Crystal
-
VS 4c 7
35SluiceHVS 5a 4
36DesireE2 5b **8
37China GroveHVS 5a *3
38Crystal ViceHVS 4c 1
39MissindoveyHVS 4c 1
 Left Hand Red Walls 
41Yellow Arete
-
S 4a 4
42Weighout
-
VS 4c 5
43Two Score and TenHS 4a 3
44The Final Cut
-
E1 5b  
45Nowhere Man
-
E2 5b *1
46Barren Lands
-
E6 6a ** 
47Broadside
-
E3 5b  
48Ruby
-
E3 5b * 
49Chicken Flesh
-
E3 5b **2
 Right Hand Red Walls 
51The Magic Wand
-
E5 6a ** 
52Gravity's Rainbow
-
E2 5c * 
53RotwandE1 4c *13
54Downward Bound
-
HVS 4c  
55Happy Hunting Ground
-
HVS 5a *1
56Here and Now
-
HVS 5a  
57Dark Lady
-
E3 6a  
 Vault Wall 
59Midnight Rambler
-
E2 5b ** 
60The TombE4 5c ***12
61Rise Above
-
E4 6a  
62The Vault
-
E1 5a *5
63Saviourblade
-
E5 6a 1
64Wolfstone
-
E6 6b ** 
65Where's Heinz?
-
E4 6a * 
66Eternity and a Spacious Grave
-
E5 6a  
 The Teflon Slab 
68Killing Time
-
E2 5a  
69Halcyon DaysE3 5b ***2
70Bridge of Sighs
-
E5 5c  
71Bitter Sweet
-
E3 5b * 
72DemeraraE1 5a *15
73Blue Skies And ButterfliesHVS 5a  
74Tut CrackVS 4b  
75Last Exit To St Agnes
-
VS 4b 6
76Black Night
-
HVS 5a *5
77Tempest
-
HS 7
78Taming The Shrew
-
S 18
79EskimoVS 4c 14
 The Baptist Cliff 
81Towards the Light
-
E3 6a ** 
82Aprez-vous
-
E1 5b **1
83The Awakening
-
E3 5c ***1
84The Haze
-
E5 6a **1
85Frankly...
-
E4 6b * 
86 DiabolistE1 5c **1
87Why not alanXS 5a 1
88Welcome to the Human Race
-
E5 6a * 
89The Baptist
-
E2 5c *1
90Elixir
-
E3 5c * 
91Continental Retreat
-
E1 5b *1
92Nativity
-
HVS 5a 3
93Soma
-
HVS 5a 1
 The Sewage Pipe Cliffs 
95Black KnightHVS 5a *1
96Silver Dollar
-
HVS 5a *8
97The Marathon ManE1 5a **1
98Castaway
-
E1 5a * 
99Crystal Voyage
-
E1 5a **10
100Alpha-Beta
-
HVS 5a 1
101Crash Landing
-
E2 5b  
102Magic Fly
-
E2 5c *1
103Life on Mars
-
E1 5b  
104The Mercury Connection
-
HVS 5a *6
 The Mercury Area 
106Quicksilver
-
HVS 5a *3
107MercuryE2 5b ***108
108Dead Run Down
-
E5 5c **1
109Andromeda StrainE5 5c **1
110Terra Nova
-
HVS 5a 2
111Silent WitnessE2 5b  
 A Buttress 
113Bohemian
-
E2 5b * 
114Euthanasia
-
HVS 5b  
115The Arete
-
HVS 4c *1
116Blue Meany
-
HVS 4c  
 B Buttress 
118McVitie
-
VS 4c 1
119Hard Tack
-
HVS 4c 2
120Fourth Dimension
-
HVS 4c *1
121WageslaveHVS 4c 1
122Starbound
-
HVS 4c  
123Journey to IxtlanHVS 4c **80
 C Buttress 
125Looking for a RainbowS 4a *24
126Rainbow GamesE2 5b ***57
127Four for TexasE2 5b **37
128Sundance
-
HS 4a *13
129Daydream
-
HVS 5a  
130Nightride
-
S 4a  
131The Song of the Shirt
-
HVS 4b  
 South C Walls 
133Sideline
-
VD 2
134Saline
-
HVS 5a *2
135Chimney Route
-
S 4a  
136CracklineHS 4b **5
137Feline
-
VS 4b 4
138Fine Line
-
D *6
139Bee Line
-
HVS 5b *2
140Bubble Trouble
-
HVS 5a 4
141Cave Wall TraverseHS 4b *10
142Absolutely AditE1 5a 3
143Inspector CluesoHVS 4c * 
 Indian Buttress 
145Indian PrincessD 3
146Counting Coup
-
S 4a  
147Blackfoot Trots
-
VS 4c 1
148The Hairy Men from the East
-
D *3
149Crescenda
-
E2 5c  
150Alex of GowlaE1 5b **22
151Indian SummerE3 5c * 
152Indian CountryE2 5b **11
153Spirit
-
M 1
154Broken ArrowS *7
155Solid GroundE1 5a * 
156Touch the Earth
-
VS 4c **11
157Shaman
-
S 4a 4
158Tipi
-
VD 10
159Red Cloud
-
S 6
160Ghost Dance
-
HS 1
161Yellow Hair
-
D  
162Hopes And FearsVS 4b *3
163Big CountryD 1
164Sobering ThoughtsVD 3
 Other Areas 
166How the West was Won
-
S *1
167Kansas City
-
HVS 5a  
 Submitted without adequate location information 
169Phoenix Nights HVS 5a ** 
170Kate HVS 4c * 
171Hello Boys! E2 5b  
172Tit Bits S 4a 3
173Walking on Sunshine VS 4b  
174The misadventures of tigs D 1
175Berlin wall HVS 5b *2
 Submitted without any useful information 
177Susan
-
E2 5b ***3
178Souxie And The Banshees
-
E1 5b *2
179Sunny Delights
-
E2 5a 1
180Outside Edge
-
HS 4b 2
181Star Wars
-
E2 5b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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