Climbs 127
Rocktype Pillow lava
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces N

Darkinbad the Brightdayler © Dave Hope

Crag features

The rock has good incut holds and good friction. A concentration of marvellous single- and multi-pitch routes up to 230ft. Tick, if you can, Eroica (E2 6a/5b A1), Black Magic (E5 6a) and the amazing Darkinbad The Brightdayler (E5 6a). [Thanks to James Parrott for spotting the error that had shifted this crag to Wales...]

Approach notes

Protected from the tide by boulders. Close to the resort of Polzeath (offering campsites). Drive to Pentire Farm for NT parking.

A track leads across fields to a junction at a stone stile with the coastal footpath. 100m E is a hump, the top of the Great Wall, with a faint path heading down to the E of the col.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UKís most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfaxís award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UKís most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Devon and Cornwall (2000)

Out of print:
I think the dot on the map needs to be moved a bit!!
andy_pemberton - 12/May/14
The Black Zawn is an area of the Pentire Point crag (
i.fish2000 - 09/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Cliff 
2Whistlin' Past the GraveyardE6 6a ** 
3Psycho BagmanE5 6a *1
4The Concrete TrampolineE3 5b 1
5Robert of Pentire
E3 6a  
6Dolly's DeathE6 6b/c ***1
7Dark SecretsE2 5c *1
8Enlightened RougesE4 5c ** 
 The Great Wall 
10Through the Looking Glass
E3 5c * 
E4 6a ***3
12Pete's Route
E2 5b 1
E2 5c 4
14A Groove Full of Mirrors
E7 6b * 
15Abracadabra ArÍteE7 6b/c *** 
16EroicaE4 6a ***196
17Dislocation DanceE3 5c 4
18On the SickE4 6a **2
19Pulses UnrealE4 6a *9
20Dislocation Dance / Pulses UnrealE4 6a *2
21Black MagicE5 6a ***55
22Wall of Spirits (Pitch 1)E6 6b *** 
23Wall of SpiritsE8 6b *** 
24Darkinbad the BrightdaylerE5 6a ***143
25Urco's Revenge
E5 6b **1
26Another Nervous Breakdown
E7 6b  
27Your Funeral, My Trail
E6 6b  
28Siren's CryE6 6a **3
29Beneath Black Waters
E6 6b * 
30Last Leviathan
E4 5c  
31Welcome to BedlamE5 6a  
32Over My Head
E1 5c  
 Twilight Cliff 
34HyperthermiaHS 4
35HypothermiaHVS 5a 2
36DaylightVD 8
37DawnHVS 5b 1
38DuskVS 4c 1
HS 4b 12
40Fear is your only GodE4 6a 3
 Redwall Cliff 
42Warrior MouseHVS 5a 5
43Wake Up Time to Die
E2 5c  
44BloodbeakE1 5b 1
45IronbeakHVS 5b 2
46Cradle of FilthHVS 5a 5
47The Joseph BellHS 4b *7
 Triple Groove Buttress 
49Groove of Illusions
VS 4c  
50Snake In The GrassVS 4b  
HS 4b 1
52Colin's Grandma
VS 4c  
53Grandpa's Variation
VS 4c  
HS 4b  
 Pentire Black Zawn 
56The FingerS 2
57This is How it GoesVD  
58Let's Go Meet Da PansiesHS 1
59Line & SinkerHVS 5a 1
60The ExHS 4b  
61Standing in the RainE1 5b  
62SelkieVD 1
63The Rising Dark
HVS 5a 1
64Quiet Desperation
HVS 5a 1
65Camming Round The MountainHVS 5a 1
66Pachyderm PathwayHVS 5a *4
67Pigs in Zen
E3 6a  
68Nipped In The Buddha
VS 4c **22
69One for the Lager Drinkers
VS 4c 1
70The English Way
HS 4b 10
71Little Black Dress
E2 5b 5
72Coal ComfortHVS 5a **3
73Sister RayE4 6a *1
74Brother Chris
E3 5c **11
75Paranoia expressE2 5b **12
76The Midnight Garden
E2 5b **5
77Black Rose
E3 5c 1
78Black Power
E3 5c 1
79Ordinary Men
VD 2
80Merchants of Menace
E2 5c **2
81A Most Peculiar Practice
HS 4b 2
 The Shield Cliffs 
83Turkish Delight
E5 5c ** 
84The CrusadeE5 6a ***3
85IstanbulE5 6a ** 
86KandaharE5 6a/b ** 
87Easy Prey
E4 5c **1
88Hope for Hillebrandt
E3 5c * 
89Groove of ShadowsE5 6a/b ** 
90Pounding Heart
E4 6a ***1
91Heavy BloodE5 6a ***1
92The North ShipE6 6a/b ** 
93The Black Hunter
E5 6b ** 
94Our Stars, Our SkyVS 4c **15
95Escape Route
96Beach Bum
HS 4b  
97Day Tripper
98Kamikaze Shrimp
 The Big Cheese 
100Ocean Of Fears
E2 5a ***1
101Steep Sheep
HVS 5a * 
 The Devil's Cliff 
103Touch of the DevilE4 6a **1
104A Wok on the Wild Side
HVS 4c  
 Half Dome Buttress 
106Silent Screaming
E1 5a  
 Thursday Buttress 
HS 4b  
109Bitter Minnows
HVS 5a * 
110Soul Shock
E2 5b  
HS 4b *6
S 4a 1
 Ramp Buttress 
 Purgatory Buttress 
VD 1
118PuginHVS 5b  
E1 5b *6
 Red Stack Rocks 
121PolmorlaE6 6b ** 
122Blue Juice
E5 6a  
E2 5b  
E2 5b  
125Safe Haven!?!
HVS 5a  
126Exclusion Zone
VS 4c  
127CatweasleE3 5c * 
128Dill PickleE1 5b  
129Whoops ApocalypseE5 6a ** 
130Hiroshima Mon Amour
M * 
131Enola GayE6 6a ** 
132Dancing in the Danger ZoneE6 6b *** 
133Grave Dancers UnionE2 5b  
134Curved AirE4 5c ** 
135Nessy CornerE3 5c * 
 Pentire Point 
139Psycho Cowboyf7C+ ***1
140Cowboy Junkiesf7C **4
141AftificeS 4a  
142Cowboy Aretef7A+ ** 

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