Climbs 128
Rocktype Pillow lava
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces N

Darkinbad the Brightdayler © Dave Hope

Crag features

The rock has good incut holds and good friction. A concentration of marvellous single- and multi-pitch routes up to 230ft. Tick, if you can, Eroica (E2 6a/5b A1), Black Magic (E5 6a) and the amazing Darkinbad The Brightdayler (E5 6a). [Thanks to James Parrott for spotting the error that had shifted this crag to Wales...]

Approach notes

Protected from the tide by boulders. Close to the resort of Polzeath (offering campsites). Drive to Pentire Farm for NT parking.

A track leads across fields to a junction at a stone stile with the coastal footpath. 100m E is a hump, the top of the Great Wall, with a faint path heading down to the E of the col.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Devon and Cornwall (2000)

Out of print:
I think the dot on the map needs to be moved a bit!!
andy_pemberton - 12/May/14
The Black Zawn is an area of the Pentire Point crag (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=315)
imogen.fish - 09/Aug/12
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Cliff
2 Whistlin' Past the Graveyard E6 6a **  
3 Psycho Bagman E5 6a * 1
4 The Concrete Trampoline E3 5b 1
5 Robert of Pentire
-
E3 6a  
6 Dolly's Death E6 6b/c *** 1
7 Dark Secrets E2 5c * 1
8 Enlightened Rouges E4 5c **  
  The Great Wall
10 Through the Looking Glass
-
E3 5c *  
11 Reflections
-
E4 6a *** 3
12 Pete's Route
-
E2 5b 1
13 Cobra
-
E2 5c 4
14 A Groove Full of Mirrors
-
E7 6b *  
15 Abracadabra Arête E7 6b/c ***  
16 Eroica E4 6a *** 219
17 Dislocation Dance E3 5c 4
18 Switchblade Romance E6 6a *** 1
19 On the Sick E4 6a ** 2
20 Pulses Unreal E4 6a * 11
21 Dislocation Dance / Pulses Unreal E4 6a * 2
22 Black Magic E5 6a *** 71
23 Wall of Spirits (Pitch 1) E6 6b ***  
24 Wall of Spirits E8 6b ***  
25 Darkinbad the Brightdayler E5 6a *** 160
26 Urco's Revenge
-
E5 6b ** 1
27 Another Nervous Breakdown
-
E7 6b  
28 Your Funeral, My Trail
-
E6 6b  
29 Siren's Cry E6 6a ** 3
30 Beneath Black Waters
-
E6 6b *  
31 Last Leviathan
-
E4 5c  
32 Welcome to Bedlam E5 6a  
33 Over My Head
-
E1 5c  
  Twilight Cliff
35 Hyperthermia HS 4
36 Hypothermia HVS 5a 2
37 Daylight VD 8
38 Dawn HVS 5b 1
39 Dusk VS 4c 1
40 Twilight
-
HS 4b 12
41 Fear is your only God E4 6a 3
  Redwall Cliff
43 Warrior Mouse HVS 5a 5
44 Wake Up Time to Die
-
E2 5c  
45 Bloodbeak E1 5b 1
46 Ironbeak HVS 5b 2
47 Cradle of Filth HVS 5a 5
48 The Joseph Bell HS 4b * 7
  Triple Groove Buttress
50 Groove of Illusions
-
VS 4c  
51 Snake In The Grass VS 4b  
52 Greenwitch
-
HS 4b 1
53 Colin's Grandma
-
VS 4c  
54 Grandpa's Variation
-
VS 4c  
55 Faff
-
HS 4b  
  Pentire Black Zawn
57 The Finger S 2
58 This is How it Goes VD  
59 Let's Go Meet Da Pansies HS 1
60 Line & Sinker HVS 5a 1
61 The Ex HS 4b  
62 Standing in the Rain E1 5b  
63 Selkie VD 1
64 The Rising Dark
-
HVS 5a 1
65 Quiet Desperation
-
HVS 5a 1
66 Camming Round The Mountain HVS 5a 1
67 Pachyderm Pathway HVS 5a * 4
68 Pigs in Zen
-
E3 6a  
69 Nipped In The Buddha
-
VS 4c ** 18
70 One for the Lager Drinkers
-
VS 4c 1
71 The English Way
-
HS 4b 11
72 Little Black Dress
-
E2 5b 5
73 Coal Comfort HVS 5a ** 3
74 Sister Ray E4 6a * 1
75 Brother Chris
-
E3 5c ** 9
76 Paranoia express E2 5b ** 10
77 The Midnight Garden
-
E2 5b ** 5
78 Black Rose
-
E3 5c 1
79 Black Power
-
E3 5c 1
80 Ordinary Men
-
VD 1
81 Merchants of Menace
-
E2 5c ** 2
82 A Most Peculiar Practice
-
HS 4b 2
  The Shield Cliffs
84 Turkish Delight
-
E5 5c **  
85 The Crusade E5 6a *** 3
86 Istanbul E5 6a **  
87 Kandahar E5 6a/b **  
88 Easy Prey
-
E4 5c ** 1
89 Hope for Hillebrandt
-
E3 5c *  
90 Groove of Shadows E5 6a/b **  
91 Pounding Heart
-
E4 6a *** 1
92 Heavy Blood E5 6a *** 1
93 The North Ship E6 6a/b **  
94 The Black Hunter
-
E5 6b **  
95 Our Stars, Our Sky VS 4c ** 15
96 Escape Route
-
VD  
97 Beach Bum
-
HS 4b  
98 Day Tripper
-
D  
99 Kamikaze Shrimp
-
D  
  The Big Cheese
101 Ocean Of Fears
-
E2 5a *** 1
102 Steep Sheep
-
HVS 5a *  
  The Devil's Cliff
104 Touch of the Devil E4 6a ** 1
105 A Wok on the Wild Side
-
HVS 4c  
  Half Dome Buttress
107 Silent Screaming
-
E1 5a  
  Thursday Buttress
109 Graceless
-
HS 4b  
110 Bitter Minnows
-
HVS 5a *  
111 Soul Shock
-
E2 5b  
112 Silverfish
-
HS 4b * 7
113 Artifice
-
S 4a 1
  Ramp Buttress
115 Rampo
-
VD  
  Purgatory Buttress
117 Shortcake
-
VD  
118 Innocents
-
VD 1
119 Pugin HVS 5b  
120 Sinners
-
E1 5b * 3
  Red Stack Rocks
122 Polmorla E6 6b **  
123 Blue Juice
-
E5 6a  
124 Goth
-
E2 5b  
125 Turk
-
E2 5b  
126 Safe Haven!?!
-
HVS 5a  
127 Exclusion Zone
-
VS 4c  
128 Catweasle E3 5c *  
129 Dill Pickle E1 5b  
130 Whoops Apocalypse E5 6a **  
131 Hiroshima Mon Amour
-
M *  
132 Enola Gay E6 6a **  
133 Dancing in the Danger Zone E6 6b ***  
134 Grave Dancers Union E2 5b  
135 Curved Air E4 5c **  
136 Nessy Corner E3 5c *  
  Pentire Point
138 Hopener
-
S 1
139 Thinisher
-
HS  
140 Psycho Cowboy f7C+ *** 1
141 Cowboy Junkies f7C ** 4
142 Aftifice S 4a  
143 Cowboy Arete f7A+ **  

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