Climbs 128
Rocktype Pillow lava
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces N

Darkinbad the Brightdayler © Dave Hope

Crag features

The rock has good incut holds and good friction. A concentration of marvellous single- and multi-pitch routes up to 230ft. Tick, if you can, Eroica (E2 6a/5b A1), Black Magic (E5 6a) and the amazing Darkinbad The Brightdayler (E5 6a). [Thanks to James Parrott for spotting the error that had shifted this crag to Wales...]

Approach notes

Protected from the tide by boulders. Close to the resort of Polzeath (offering campsites). Drive to Pentire Farm for NT parking.

A track leads across fields to a junction at a stone stile with the coastal footpath. 100m E is a hump, the top of the Great Wall, with a faint path heading down to the E of the col.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Devon and Cornwall (2000)

Out of print:
I think the dot on the map needs to be moved a bit!!
andy_pemberton - 12/May/14
The Black Zawn is an area of the Pentire Point crag ( - 09/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Cliff 
2Whistlin' Past the GraveyardE6 6a ** 
3Psycho BagmanE5 6a *1
4The Concrete TrampolineE3 5b 1
5Robert of Pentire
E3 6a  
6Dolly's DeathE6 6b/c ***1
7Dark SecretsE2 5c *1
8Enlightened RougesE4 5c ** 
 The Great Wall 
10Through the Looking Glass
E3 5c * 
E4 6a ***3
12Pete's Route
E2 5b 1
E2 5c 4
14A Groove Full of Mirrors
E7 6b * 
15Abracadabra ArêteE7 6b/c *** 
16EroicaE4 6a ***207
17Dislocation DanceE3 5c 4
18Switchblade RomanceE6 6a ***1
19On the SickE4 6a **2
20Pulses UnrealE4 6a *10
21Dislocation Dance / Pulses UnrealE4 6a *2
22Black MagicE5 6a ***58
23Wall of Spirits (Pitch 1)E6 6b *** 
24Wall of SpiritsE8 6b *** 
25Darkinbad the BrightdaylerE5 6a ***149
26Urco's Revenge
E5 6b **1
27Another Nervous Breakdown
E7 6b  
28Your Funeral, My Trail
E6 6b  
29Siren's CryE6 6a **3
30Beneath Black Waters
E6 6b * 
31Last Leviathan
E4 5c  
32Welcome to BedlamE5 6a  
33Over My Head
E1 5c  
 Twilight Cliff 
35HyperthermiaHS 4
36HypothermiaHVS 5a 2
37DaylightVD 8
38DawnHVS 5b 1
39DuskVS 4c 1
HS 4b 12
41Fear is your only GodE4 6a 3
 Redwall Cliff 
43Warrior MouseHVS 5a 5
44Wake Up Time to Die
E2 5c  
45BloodbeakE1 5b 1
46IronbeakHVS 5b 2
47Cradle of FilthHVS 5a 5
48The Joseph BellHS 4b *7
 Triple Groove Buttress 
50Groove of Illusions
VS 4c  
51Snake In The GrassVS 4b  
HS 4b 1
53Colin's Grandma
VS 4c  
54Grandpa's Variation
VS 4c  
HS 4b  
 Pentire Black Zawn 
57The FingerS 2
58This is How it GoesVD  
59Let's Go Meet Da PansiesHS 1
60Line & SinkerHVS 5a 1
61The ExHS 4b  
62Standing in the RainE1 5b  
63SelkieVD 1
64The Rising Dark
HVS 5a 1
65Quiet Desperation
HVS 5a 1
66Camming Round The MountainHVS 5a 1
67Pachyderm PathwayHVS 5a *4
68Pigs in Zen
E3 6a  
69Nipped In The Buddha
VS 4c **22
70One for the Lager Drinkers
VS 4c 1
71The English Way
HS 4b 11
72Little Black Dress
E2 5b 5
73Coal ComfortHVS 5a **3
74Sister RayE4 6a *1
75Brother Chris
E3 5c **11
76Paranoia expressE2 5b **12
77The Midnight Garden
E2 5b **5
78Black Rose
E3 5c 1
79Black Power
E3 5c 1
80Ordinary Men
VD 2
81Merchants of Menace
E2 5c **2
82A Most Peculiar Practice
HS 4b 2
 The Shield Cliffs 
84Turkish Delight
E5 5c ** 
85The CrusadeE5 6a ***3
86IstanbulE5 6a ** 
87KandaharE5 6a/b ** 
88Easy Prey
E4 5c **1
89Hope for Hillebrandt
E3 5c * 
90Groove of ShadowsE5 6a/b ** 
91Pounding Heart
E4 6a ***1
92Heavy BloodE5 6a ***1
93The North ShipE6 6a/b ** 
94The Black Hunter
E5 6b ** 
95Our Stars, Our SkyVS 4c **15
96Escape Route
97Beach Bum
HS 4b  
98Day Tripper
99Kamikaze Shrimp
 The Big Cheese 
101Ocean Of Fears
E2 5a ***1
102Steep Sheep
HVS 5a * 
 The Devil's Cliff 
104Touch of the DevilE4 6a **1
105A Wok on the Wild Side
HVS 4c  
 Half Dome Buttress 
107Silent Screaming
E1 5a  
 Thursday Buttress 
HS 4b  
110Bitter Minnows
HVS 5a * 
111Soul Shock
E2 5b  
HS 4b *8
S 4a 1
 Ramp Buttress 
 Purgatory Buttress 
VD 1
119PuginHVS 5b  
E1 5b *6
 Red Stack Rocks 
122PolmorlaE6 6b ** 
123Blue Juice
E5 6a  
E2 5b  
E2 5b  
126Safe Haven!?!
HVS 5a  
127Exclusion Zone
VS 4c  
128CatweasleE3 5c * 
129Dill PickleE1 5b  
130Whoops ApocalypseE5 6a ** 
131Hiroshima Mon Amour
M * 
132Enola GayE6 6a ** 
133Dancing in the Danger ZoneE6 6b *** 
134Grave Dancers UnionE2 5b  
135Curved AirE4 5c ** 
136Nessy CornerE3 5c * 
 Pentire Point 
140Psycho Cowboyf7C+ ***1
141Cowboy Junkiesf7C **4
142AftificeS 4a  
143Cowboy Aretef7A+ ** 

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