Climbs 128
Rocktype Pillow lava
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces N

Darkinbad the Brightdayler © Dave Hope

Crag features

The rock has good incut holds and good friction. A concentration of marvellous single- and multi-pitch routes up to 230ft. Tick, if you can, Eroica (E2 6a/5b A1), Black Magic (E5 6a) and the amazing Darkinbad The Brightdayler (E5 6a). [Thanks to James Parrott for spotting the error that had shifted this crag to Wales...]

Approach notes

Protected from the tide by boulders. Close to the resort of Polzeath (offering campsites). Drive to Pentire Farm for NT parking.

A track leads across fields to a junction at a stone stile with the coastal footpath. 100m E is a hump, the top of the Great Wall, with a faint path heading down to the E of the col.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Devon and Cornwall (2000)

Out of print:
I think the dot on the map needs to be moved a bit!!
andy_pemberton - 12/May/14
The Black Zawn is an area of the Pentire Point crag (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=315)
imogen.fish - 09/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Cliff 
2Whistlin' Past the GraveyardE6 6a ** 
3Psycho BagmanE5 6a *1
4The Concrete TrampolineE3 5b 1
5Robert of Pentire
-
E3 6a  
6Dolly's DeathE6 6b/c ***1
7Dark SecretsE2 5c *1
8Enlightened RougesE4 5c ** 
 The Great Wall 
10Through the Looking Glass
-
E3 5c * 
11Reflections
-
E4 6a ***3
12Pete's Route
-
E2 5b 1
13Cobra
-
E2 5c 4
14A Groove Full of Mirrors
-
E7 6b * 
15Abracadabra ArêteE7 6b/c *** 
16EroicaE4 6a ***207
17Dislocation DanceE3 5c 4
18Switchblade RomanceE6 6a ***1
19On the SickE4 6a **2
20Pulses UnrealE4 6a *10
21Dislocation Dance / Pulses UnrealE4 6a *2
22Black MagicE5 6a ***58
23Wall of Spirits (Pitch 1)E6 6b *** 
24Wall of SpiritsE8 6b *** 
25Darkinbad the BrightdaylerE5 6a ***149
26Urco's Revenge
-
E5 6b **1
27Another Nervous Breakdown
-
E7 6b  
28Your Funeral, My Trail
-
E6 6b  
29Siren's CryE6 6a **3
30Beneath Black Waters
-
E6 6b * 
31Last Leviathan
-
E4 5c  
32Welcome to BedlamE5 6a  
33Over My Head
-
E1 5c  
 Twilight Cliff 
35HyperthermiaHS 4
36HypothermiaHVS 5a 2
37DaylightVD 8
38DawnHVS 5b 1
39DuskVS 4c 1
40Twilight
-
HS 4b 12
41Fear is your only GodE4 6a 3
 Redwall Cliff 
43Warrior MouseHVS 5a 5
44Wake Up Time to Die
-
E2 5c  
45BloodbeakE1 5b 1
46IronbeakHVS 5b 2
47Cradle of FilthHVS 5a 5
48The Joseph BellHS 4b *7
 Triple Groove Buttress 
50Groove of Illusions
-
VS 4c  
51Snake In The GrassVS 4b  
52Greenwitch
-
HS 4b 1
53Colin's Grandma
-
VS 4c  
54Grandpa's Variation
-
VS 4c  
55Faff
-
HS 4b  
 Pentire Black Zawn 
57The FingerS 2
58This is How it GoesVD  
59Let's Go Meet Da PansiesHS 1
60Line & SinkerHVS 5a 1
61The ExHS 4b  
62Standing in the RainE1 5b  
63SelkieVD 1
64The Rising Dark
-
HVS 5a 1
65Quiet Desperation
-
HVS 5a 1
66Camming Round The MountainHVS 5a 1
67Pachyderm PathwayHVS 5a *4
68Pigs in Zen
-
E3 6a  
69Nipped In The Buddha
-
VS 4c **22
70One for the Lager Drinkers
-
VS 4c 1
71The English Way
-
HS 4b 11
72Little Black Dress
-
E2 5b 5
73Coal ComfortHVS 5a **3
74Sister RayE4 6a *1
75Brother Chris
-
E3 5c **11
76Paranoia expressE2 5b **12
77The Midnight Garden
-
E2 5b **5
78Black Rose
-
E3 5c 1
79Black Power
-
E3 5c 1
80Ordinary Men
-
VD 2
81Merchants of Menace
-
E2 5c **2
82A Most Peculiar Practice
-
HS 4b 2
 The Shield Cliffs 
84Turkish Delight
-
E5 5c ** 
85The CrusadeE5 6a ***3
86IstanbulE5 6a ** 
87KandaharE5 6a/b ** 
88Easy Prey
-
E4 5c **1
89Hope for Hillebrandt
-
E3 5c * 
90Groove of ShadowsE5 6a/b ** 
91Pounding Heart
-
E4 6a ***1
92Heavy BloodE5 6a ***1
93The North ShipE6 6a/b ** 
94The Black Hunter
-
E5 6b ** 
95Our Stars, Our SkyVS 4c **15
96Escape Route
-
VD  
97Beach Bum
-
HS 4b  
98Day Tripper
-
D  
99Kamikaze Shrimp
-
D  
 The Big Cheese 
101Ocean Of Fears
-
E2 5a ***1
102Steep Sheep
-
HVS 5a * 
 The Devil's Cliff 
104Touch of the DevilE4 6a **1
105A Wok on the Wild Side
-
HVS 4c  
 Half Dome Buttress 
107Silent Screaming
-
E1 5a  
 Thursday Buttress 
109Graceless
-
HS 4b  
110Bitter Minnows
-
HVS 5a * 
111Soul Shock
-
E2 5b  
112Silverfish
-
HS 4b *8
113Artifice
-
S 4a 1
 Ramp Buttress 
115Rampo
-
VD  
 Purgatory Buttress 
117Shortcake
-
VD  
118Innocents
-
VD 1
119PuginHVS 5b  
120Sinners
-
E1 5b *6
 Red Stack Rocks 
122PolmorlaE6 6b ** 
123Blue Juice
-
E5 6a  
124Goth
-
E2 5b  
125Turk
-
E2 5b  
126Safe Haven!?!
-
HVS 5a  
127Exclusion Zone
-
VS 4c  
128CatweasleE3 5c * 
129Dill PickleE1 5b  
130Whoops ApocalypseE5 6a ** 
131Hiroshima Mon Amour
-
M * 
132Enola GayE6 6a ** 
133Dancing in the Danger ZoneE6 6b *** 
134Grave Dancers UnionE2 5b  
135Curved AirE4 5c ** 
136Nessy CornerE3 5c * 
 Pentire Point 
138Hopener
-
S  
139Thinisher
-
HS  
140Psycho Cowboyf7C+ ***1
141Cowboy Junkiesf7C **4
142AftificeS 4a  
143Cowboy Aretef7A+ ** 

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