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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 39
Rocktype Granite
Altitude Tidal
Faces NW

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Moe Heffer on Queen Jane @ Cligga Head © Master Chief

Crag features

Unusually for this coast consists of killas slate and granite. Many pleasant routes at the lower grades up to 120ft.

Approach notes

Tidal in some parts.

Take the B3285 from Perranporth for 1.5miles to a steep hill. Turn R through buildings of the Cornwall Gliding Club. Park. Cross the runway to a rough track over a small bridge to a quarry on the cliff edge. The main climbing should be apparent ahead.


Went to the north face today, its badly out of condition. every route has seaweed covered on it for around the first 20-30 ft.
tp45597 - 30/May/14
Glad to see people are climbing here, and improving the crag with some harder new routes on the North Face! Looking forward to giving Maxwell's Treasure and Maxout a go when I have time and the weather improves :D
Rusty2406 - 24/Oct/13
Look for some excellent bouldering/highball probs just behind the main quarry on the seaward side.
ph1 - 10/Oct/04
Queen Jane is a wonderfully atmospheric one pitch Diff slab. It starts with a tricky looking traverse, out of sight of the belayer and directly above boiling white water. There's a steep looking wall ahead, but the holds are huge and the angle soon eases off. Very secluded and a lot closer than any equivalent climb if you're in the immediate area. For a secure belay, take a spare rope to connect up as many of the rusty spikes and rings at the top as you can. There's not much else to use.
mbh at work - 13/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Dreamboat Annie
HVS 5a * 6
2 Queen Jane
D ** 63
3 The Masterdon
VD * 27
4 Season of the Witch
VS 5a * 3
5 Lord of the Dance
VS 4c 1
6 bright star XS 5a 4
7 two fair maidens
VD 10
8 baldy bane S 4b ** 4
9 Mastodon (Cligga Head)
VD 2
10 Bronco VD 7
11 clints route
D 8
12 reflections of inet
D 7
13 North Buttress
VD 1
Climb name Grade
14 Second Choice
D 8
15 Fumble with my Crumble! MS 1
16 Discretion S 1
17 Guano Adventures S 4a 1
18 The Viking
S 4a 2
19 Shades of Nod
VD 7
20 The Orange Throated Gronk
S 4b 6
21 C Land Super VS 4c *** 4
22 Cobblers S 4a 1
23 The Dicer
VS 4c  
24 Ofus
S 4b  
25 Black Veil
VS 4b 1
26 Fear of a Black Planet
E2 5b **  
Climb name Grade
27 Maxwell's Demon
E5 6b ** 1
28 Fingerin' the Dyke
E3 5c ** 1
29 Stone Table
HS 4b 1
30 Toad in the Hole
VS 5a 1
31 Gail's Waist
HS 4c  
32 Green Slime Crime
33 Poxy Wall
34 Alpine Departures M  
35 Fisticuffs
VS 4c  
36 Wolframite E5 6a **  
37 Pigeons in the Mist E3 6a *** 1
38 Maxwells Treasure E3 5c ** 1
39 Maxout E3 5c **  

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