Climbs 10
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 1786m a.s.l
Faces SE

sudkante © Fish

Crag features

This crag is in Switzerland, Bernese Oberland area and is covered by the guidebook Schweiz Plaisir West - see previous reports

Long routes with a more serious mountian feel than the granite slab routes found higher up the Grimsel Pass, below the dam.

Facing SE the crag avoids the heat until around 1pm in the later part of the year so would still be a venue for afternoon routes on the colder autumn days.

Although eqipped with realtively new bolts and abseil stations the bolts are quite sportingly placed on some routes so take a limited rack of wires and friends as well as quickdraws.

Most of the routes here have a route book that you can sign. This is kept in a section of plastic drainpipe on the latter pitches. One of the routes also has a tap on it (yes like you have on your sink at home.

You may also be able to see the local farmer with his mobile milking shed

Approach notes

Drive up the Grimsel pass from Inertkirchen and park on the left where a path leads up to the crag in about 45 minutes. The path crosses the river and in some years it may be washed away with meltwater. The river itself has changed course recently and now there is a dry river course to cross as well as one that still carries water.

The ground is quite steep below the crag so best to gear up on some flatter patches about 20-30 metres away.

Descent is either by abseil or by following a path over the top and down the side to pop out at the top of the waterfall. Abseil descent may present difficulites with ropes getting stuck due to the nature of the rock, although the belays are all equipped.

It's a walk off but the book omits to tell you of the grade 3 scrambles you need to descend! 3rd abseil point easy to miss.
Mike-W-99 - 22/Jul/15
we walked down and it is the never ending descent from hell...... spoken to other people and abbing is a better option.
Fish - 18/May/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Abadia 6b+ 2
2 Sudkante 4c ** 21
3 Durststrecke 5c 8
4 An Ueli sis Chueli 5c 6
5 Heidi mier weidi mier beidi...... 5c 9
6 Heidi, et....etc 5c ** 5
7 Loris Boxenstopp 5c 2

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