Climbs 74
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces NE

Loch Avon Basin © andymoin

Crag features

Features some of the very best routes on Cairngorm Granite:

10-pitch routes on the highest part of the crag and also 1 to 3 pitch routes on the Central Slabs. Famous routes include Run of the Arrow (E5), The Pin (E2), Steeple (E2), Needle (E1/HVS). Recent years have seen the addition of some desperate and bold routes on the Central Slabs e.g. Realm Of The Senses and l'Elisir d'Amore (both E7)

Also has some amazing, hard winter lines:

Sticil Face (V) and Citadel (VIII).

There have been recent ascents of some of the established Summer lines e.g. The Needle, in mixed conditions.

Faces NE, so holds snow and ice well.

Dries fairly quickly.

There's also loads of bouldering potential between the loch and the crag but beware the gnarly landings and finger-shredding granite!

Approach notes

Best approach is from Coire Cas - either by the Fiacaill a Choirrie Cas or via the goat track in Coire an t'Sneachda

The shelter stone and surrounding boulders provide some howfs and bivi sites. Protect your food from scavenging mice.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Castle Wall
IV 5 *13
2Breach Gully
IV 5  
3Raeburn's Buttress
IV 5 *3
E3 5c  
5Consolation Groove (Summer)
HVS 5a *1
6Consolation Groove (Winter)
VII 7  
7Rib Tickler
E2 5c *2
VII 8  
9Threadbare True Finish
IV 4  
10FreyaE3 5c 7
11Sticil FaceV 6 ***126
12Sticil Face Variation Start
VI 5 2
13Sticil Face Direct Finish
V 6 6
14The Flake
V 7  
15The Harp
E3 5c **7
E4 6a * 
E2 5b *1
E7 6b *** 
E5 6b ***10
20The Missing Link
E4 5c ***7
21The Missing Link Variation
E3 5c 2
22The Run of the Arrow
E6 6b ***3
23Hard Lines
E5 6a * 
24Cupid's Bow
E5 6b ***7
25Cupid's Bow Variation
E3 5c  

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