UKC

Climbs 81
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces NE

Loch Avon Basin © andymoin

Crag features

Features some of the very best routes on Cairngorm Granite:

10-pitch routes on the highest part of the crag and also 1 to 3 pitch routes on the Central Slabs. Famous routes include Run of the Arrow (E5), The Pin (E2), Steeple (E2), Needle (E1/HVS). Recent years have seen the addition of some desperate and bold routes on the Central Slabs e.g. Realm Of The Senses and l'Elisir d'Amore (both E7)

Also has some amazing, hard winter lines:

Sticil Face (V) and Citadel (VIII).

There have been recent ascents of some of the established Summer lines e.g. The Needle, in mixed conditions.

Faces NE, so holds snow and ice well.

Dries fairly quickly.

There's also loads of bouldering potential between the loch and the crag but beware the gnarly landings and finger-shredding granite!

Approach notes

Best approach is from Coire Cas - either by the Fiacaill a Choirrie Cas or via the goat track in Coire an t'Sneachda

The shelter stone and surrounding boulders provide some howfs and bivi sites. Protect your food from scavenging mice.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Castle Wall
-
IV 5 * 15
2 Breach Gully
-
IV 5 1
3 Raeburn's Buttress
-
IV 5 * 4
4 Pointlace
-
E3 5c  
5 Consolation Groove (Summer)
-
HVS 5a * 1
6 Consolation Groove (Winter)
-
VII 7  
7 Rib Tickler
-
E2 5c * 2
8 Threadbare
-
VII 8  
9 Threadbare True Finish
-
IV 4  
10 Freya E3 5c 7
11 Sticil Face V 6 *** 70
12 Sticil Face Variation Start
-
VI 5 2
13 Sticil Face Direct Finish
-
V 6 6
14 The Flake
-
V 7  
15 The Harp
-
E3 5c ** 10
16 Immortals
-
E4 6a * 1
17 Snipers
-
E2 5b * 1
18 Aphrodite
-
E7 6b ***  
19 Thor
-
E5 6b *** 6
20 The Missing Link
-
E4 5c *** 7
21 The Missing Link Variation
-
E3 5c 2
22 Quiver E4 6a ** 2
23 The Run of the Arrow
-
E6 6b *** 4
24 Hard Lines
-
E5 6a * 1
25 Cupid's Bow
-
E5 6b *** 10
26 Cupid's Bow Variation
-
E3 5c  
27 The True Bow E6 6b *** 1
28 The Graduate HVS 1
Climb name Grade
29 Realm of the Senses
-
E7 6c ***  
30 L'Elsir d'Amore
-
E7 6b **  
31 Athene
-
E7 6c ***  
32 Icon of Lust
-
E8 6c ***  
33 Meteor E2 5b * 1
34 The Pin E2 5b *** 54
35 The Pin Variation Start
-
E3 5c  
36 The Pin Pitch 2 Variation
-
E2 5b  
37 The Pin Lower Slab Start Variation
-
VS 4c 5
38 Blockbuster
-
E2 5b 1
39 The Citadel (Summer)
-
VS * 13
40 The Citadel The Moonlight Finish Variation (Summer)
-
VS  
41 The Citadel (Winter)
-
VII 8 *** 15
42 The Citadel Winter Variation
-
VI 8 ** 2
43 Haystack
-
E3 5c *** 71
44 The Spire
-
E4 6a ** 16
45 Steeple
-
E2 5c *** 179
46 Steeple (Winter)
-
IX 9 ***  
47 Postern (Summer)
-
HS 4c 4
48 Postern Direct Finish Variation (Summer)
-
HS  
49 Postern (Winter)
-
VII 7 * 6
50 Postern Variation (Winter)
-
VI 6 ** 17
51 Postern Direct (Summer)
-
VS 4c  
52 Postern Direct (Winter)
-
VII 7  
53 The Needle
-
E1 5b *** 327
54 The Needle Pitch 4 Variation (Summer)
-
E4 6a  
55 The Needle (Winter)
-
VIII 8 *** 5
56 The Needle Bad Karma Variation (Winter)
-
VIII 8  

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