UKC

Climbs 241
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 65m a.s.l
Faces S

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The Deception, Cape Greco © duzinga

Crag features

The rock is a coarse limestone. Depending on the time of day it can appear to be almost bright white; later in the day it appears to be orange/brown. It is also open to the elements and is very weathered. As a result it is open to numerous fragile features. There are holes and pockets due to weathering which may not be as safe as they seem. The rock is hollow in places and can be weak. Loose rock is a major problem on some parts of the crags and therefore great care must be taken when climbing and abseiling. These areas do not see enough traffic to clear off the loose rock.

The nature of the rocks is also very steep in places, with bulges and overhangs that are often very smooth and difficult to overcome. However, there are often an abundance of flakes. Some of these are a great advantage, but others are too weak and are likely to break. Needless to say the rock is extremely varied, sometimes smooth and flawless, other times sharp and unrelenting. It has to be said that great care must be taken by all climbers when pulling on holds or placing gear in the rock.

Approach notes

Cape Greko is very distinctive and can be seen jutting out into the Mediterranean from a number of miles away.

Also the grades feel a bit on the soft side (either that or I'm better than I think - I wish!).
Andy Gamisou - 27/Jun/13
I've climbed at the various Greko sectors extensively over the last 7 years, and while I agree some care needs to be taken with the rock, I don't think it's quite as loose as the info above suggests. With a bit of judgement, and climbing 'light' then there really shouldn't be a problem. The gear is good (on many routes you can zip them up better than the average sports climb) and the rock isn't very steep on the whole so you don't generally need to pull hard. I would definitately advise a helmet though.
Andy Gamisou - 27/Jun/13
Climbed there last february, excellent location with fantastic view. However some routes just look horribly loose
RomTheBear - 24/May/13
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