Climbs 231
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 65m a.s.l
Faces S

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The Deception, Cape Greco © duzinga

Crag features

The rock is a coarse limestone. Depending on the time of day it can appear to be almost bright white; later in the day it appears to be orange/brown. It is also open to the elements and is very weathered. As a result it is open to numerous fragile features. There are holes and pockets due to weathering which may not be as safe as they seem. The rock is hollow in places and can be weak. Loose rock is a major problem on some parts of the crags and therefore great care must be taken when climbing and abseiling. These areas do not see enough traffic to clear off the loose rock.

The nature of the rocks is also very steep in places, with bulges and overhangs that are often very smooth and difficult to overcome. However, there are often an abundance of flakes. Some of these are a great advantage, but others are too weak and are likely to break. Needless to say the rock is extremely varied, sometimes smooth and flawless, other times sharp and unrelenting. It has to be said that great care must be taken by all climbers when pulling on holds or placing gear in the rock.

Approach notes

Cape Greko is very distinctive and can be seen jutting out into the Mediterranean from a number of miles away.

Also the grades feel a bit on the soft side (either that or I'm better than I think - I wish!).
Andy Gamisou - 27/Jun/13
I've climbed at the various Greko sectors extensively over the last 7 years, and while I agree some care needs to be taken with the rock, I don't think it's quite as loose as the info above suggests. With a bit of judgement, and climbing 'light' then there really shouldn't be a problem. The gear is good (on many routes you can zip them up better than the average sports climb) and the rock isn't very steep on the whole so you don't generally need to pull hard. I would definitately advise a helmet though.
Andy Gamisou - 27/Jun/13
Climbed there last february, excellent location with fantastic view. However some routes just look horribly loose
RomTheBear - 24/May/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Crag
2 Warm Up Slab M 3
3 Cursed Diamond HVS 5a * 6
4 On a Wing and a Prayer E3 5c *** 1
5 A-Ledge-D Assault HS 4b 4
6 Ash E1 5b 2
7 Slowburn HVD * 6
8 Imperial Measures E2 5c 1
9 West of West D 3
10 Aladdin's Way D 1
11 Sea Spray
-
S 4a 9
12 Chock Horror HS 4b ** 12
13 El Greco MS * 9
14 Flake Out Variation HVD 9
15 Flake Out
-
S 4a 22
16 The Apprentice
-
VD 17
17 The Cadet
-
VD 14
18 Big Bad & Beautiful VS 4c 25
19 Shadowlands E3 5c ***  
20 Surf's Up VS 4c * 6
21 Surf's Up Variation D 1
22 Dick Dastardly HVS 5a  
23 Poisoned Chalice E3 6a  
24 The Graduate HVD * 4
  Greko Crag
26 September Blue VD ** 12
27 Little Gully D 19
28 Juicy VS 4c * 5
29 Fruity HS 4b 6
30 Dreaming Of Carn Barra E2 5c 2
31 The Frustrated Gardener VS 4c 8
32 Hole Direct 6b 4
33 No. 1000 5a 12
34 Solo HD ** 26
35 Bumbly and British E1 5a 1
36 Insomnia 6c+ 5
37 The Beast of Dartmoor E6 6a 2
38 Deception S 4a * 31
39 Reptillian Respect 6c 11
40 Kurkutas 5c 7
41 Jacob's Ladder VD 19
42 Bloodshed HS 4b * 15
43 Thomas's Way HD 11
44 Red Line HD 10
45 Green Line M 6
46 Lizard's Line VD 8
47 Golden Brown Variation HVD 12
48 Golden Brown HVD * 11
49 Super Embnefsi 6a+ 6
50 Embnefsi 6a 4
51 3D Exit HVS 5b *** 1
52 Zig Zag HVD * 6
53 Quiet Desparation S 4a 8
54 Hung Over HD 3
55 Luna Park 5b 7
56 Vasanaki 5c 6
57 The Wet One MS ** 16
58 Slippery When Wet S 4a *** 14
59 Buddha and the Dragon Discuss Zen and the Art of Rock Climbing S 4a ** 7
60 Tall beauty 6a+ 9
61 Devil s Feet 6b+ 4
62 Morning Shadow VD 18
63 The Dragon MS * 2
64 The Lion HS 4a *** 9
65 The Unicorn VS 4c 9
66 The Geologist S 4a  
67 The Botanist HD 5
68 Traditional Route S 4a 3
69 Breakfast 5b  
70 Manolo 2 6c 1
71 Jelly Baby 6c+ 6
72 Midget Gem 6b+ 4
73 ? 7a  
74 Stake Your Claim E1 5b * 1
75 It wasn't me 6b 4
76 Appetiser Direct VD 5
77 The Appetiser VD 3
78 Reunion VD 3
79 Hanging Around HS 4b *** 15
80 Bats in the Belfry E2 5c 1
Climb name Grade
81 Black Chimney E1 5a ** 11
82 Roid Rage 7b  
83 Pendulum HD 4
84 Blancmange S 4a 4
85 If My Dad Could See Me Now HVS 4c * 4
86 Hats Off HVD 10
87 Thorn Gully D 5
88 The Sickle D 5
89 Sickle Slab Traverse VD 3
90 Fragile S 4a 3
  Border Crag
92 First Way M 13
93 Come Back Brighter HVS 5a *** 6
94 Insurrection E3 6c *** 1
95 Thomson Crack HS 4b ** 7
96 Do or Do Not, There is No Try! E2 6b *** 1
97 Adrenalin Junkie E1 6a 4
98 Split Fingers HVD 11
99 Next HD 6
100 Windswept and Interesting MS  
101 Blank Wall HVD 8
102 Chimney Climb VD 35
103 Unsuitable for Younger Children E6 6b/c 4
104 Never Say Never E5 6a/b ** 6
105 Parental Guidance E1 5b 9
106 The Stain VS 4c *** 14
107 Slanting Crack S 4a 40
108 The Scoop VD 44
109 Abseil Wall VD 35
110 Rocking Stone VD 36
111 Rock 'N' Roll S 4b 23
112 Another One Bites The Dust E1 5b *** 9
113 The Bulge VD 21
114 ? HS 4b ** 11
115 Griff S 4a * 21
116 Channel V HS 4b 5
117 Strangely Brown HVS 4c ** 15
118 Border Dispute 6b  
119 Resurrection 6a  
120 Incursion 5a  
121 Monodoigt 5c  
122 Are You Crazy Enough? VS 4b 4
123 Pete's Progress VS  
124 Payne In The Neck HVS 5a *** 6
125 The Scar E1 5b * 3
126 Half Moon HS 4b 6
  Tigani Crag
128 Tweedledee D 1
129 Riders on the Storm E1 5a  
130 Tweedledum HVD 3
131 On The Wings Of Unreason E2 5c **  
132 Thorn in my Pride VS 4c  
133 ? VB  
134 Skin Deep S 4a * 4
135 All My Own Work HVD * 10
136 Sea View HD 4
137 In the Groove D 4
138 Easily Lead VS 4c **  
139 Whiter Shade Of Pale E5 6a  
140 Curving Crack HD 3
141 Rob's Bulge HD 5
142 Vol Au Vont D * 5
143 One for the Road HVD 6
144 Sidewinder HVD * 9
145 Just a Minute VD 5
146 The Worst is Over S 4a ** 5
147 Endgame HS 4a * 3
148 Side Step VD 2
149 Don't Mention The War S 4a *** 9
150 The Sphynx E4 6a  
151 And the Crowd Goes Wild E2 5c  
152 Bushwacked HD 3
153 Dear Life HS 4b * 5
154 ? HVD 1
155 Breakdance E1 5a * 1
156 Concrete and Clay E2 5c  
157 Attack Sox HVD  
158 Distant Suns E3 5c  
159 Life's Rich Pageant E1 5a  
Climb name Grade
  Tigani Rocks
161 Cave Crack
-
5c  
162 No More Monkey Business
-
6b  
163 Second Helpings
-
HVD 1
164 Ticonderoga
-
VS 4c 2
165 A Bit of a Giggle
-
VS 4c  
166 Pumped
-
VS 4c 6
167 Bag then Brag
-
E2 5c *** 9
168 Bag Direct
-
E2 5c *** 7
169 Armless
-
S 4a 2
170 Brag
-
VS 4c 5
171 Short Sharp Shock
-
HVS 5a 9
172 Aftershock
-
E2 5b 1
173 Despair Direct
-
VS 5a 4
174 Ride the Wild Surf
-
E4 6a  
175 Despair
-
HS 4b 2
176 Up 'N' Over
-
VS 4c 8
177 Lycanthropy
-
E1 5b 1
178 Up 'N' Under
-
HS 4b 2
179 Halcyon Daze
-
HS 4b 8
180 This One's for Mat
-
VS 4c 5
181 Smoke me a Kipper... ...I'll be back for Breakfast
-
E2 5c ** 1
182 Ace Rimmer
-
E4 6b  
183 The Final Cut
-
HS 4b 14
184 Impulse Power
-
6b  
185 Warpspeed E1 ? 1
186 Juggsville
-
HVD  
187 Blood on the Rocks
-
VS 5b  
188 A Laugh a Minute
-
S 4a 1
189 The Wrong Trousers
-
HVS 5a  
190 Unremarkable
-
VD 2
191 Pulp Friction
-
HVD 4
192 Blow You Away
-
6a+  
193 Keeper of the Flame 6b  
194 Hey You Crazy Katz!
-
D  
195 A Close Shave
-
HVS 5b  
196 Big Kahuna Burger
-
HS 4b 2
197 Royale with Cheese
-
HS 4b 2
198 Cheesegrater Direct
-
HVS 4c  
199 Dark Half
-
E3 6a  
200 Freudian Desires
-
S 4a 2
201 Porthole Gully
-
VD 2
202 Give me a Break
-
S 4a 1
203 Take a Break
-
E1 5a  
204 Point One
-
VS 4c  
  Snakeskin Crag
206 Jolly Funny D 4
207 Los Endos D 3
208 End Slab M 7
209 Snakes and Ladders D 10
210 Cave Climb HD 7
211 Thirsty Work VS 4c * 6
212 Destiny VS 4c * 9
213 Aphrodite E1 5a *** 1
214 The Real Thing HVS 5a ** 32
215 Flake Direct HS 4a * 17
216 Crumbling Flake HS 4a 23
217 Mellow HVD 7
218 Yellow HVD 4
219 Feelin' Groovy
-
E1 5b 1
220 Face Dance VB 6a 1
221 Serendipity S 4a 7
222 Serenity HVD 4
223 Sprint Finish HS 4a * 6
224 Foto Finish HS 4b * 5
225 Cold VD 8
226 Mildly Titilating S 4a 2
227 The Wave VB 5c 1
228 My Partner Always Says... HD 8
229 Therapy HVD 2
  Ayios Epiphanios (The Lost World)
231 Lost Innocence
-
VB 5a  
232 Ground Zero
-
VB 5c  
233 Grace And Danger
-
VB 5c  
234 Zimbambaloomba
-
VB 5c  
235 Paradise Lost
-
VB 5a  
236 Lost World
-
VB 6a  
237 A U 1 Sum 'Bleau
-
VB 5c  
238 Bleau Out
-
VB 5c  

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