Climbs 62
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 297m a.s.l
Faces N

Remigny © Simon

Crag features

A pleasant pocketed limestone crag (once a quarry) offering one pitch climbs up to 22m. There is a high concentration of easier grade climbs and it is especially good for those operating in the range of F4+ to F6b+ largely on off vertical walls. The exception is the impressive over hanging Reggae Wall which offers half a dozen routes 7a+ to 8a all steep pocket pulling with the main attraction being Reggae Night 7b+/ 7c. The right wall of secteur du U ( furthest right sector when facing the crag) has a further half dozen steep routes around 6c /7a. The back wall of Secteur du U has three very good 4/5s. Between these​ two sectors is the Grand Mur with its predominantly gentler offerings.

The sectors are listed from left to right, with the prominent corner of Souvenirs d'Enfance marking the end of Secteur Crackers and the start of Secteur Reggae Wall.

Guidebook: the Jingo-Wobbly guide does not include many of the easier routes, notably those on the Grand Mur, but there is a free local topo available in tourist info in Chagny.

Approach notes

According to the guidebook the access agreement for this crag - fairly recently negotiated after years of exclusion - precludes climbing after the second weekend in September until March. Please observe this restriction to help maintain access.

To reach the crag most will arrive in the small village of Remigny from Chagny. Turn left onto the Rue des Ecoles (signposted for the restaurant l'Escale). Immediately after crossing the bridge turn left opposite the restaurant onto a road by the canal. First right climbs a deteriorating road, tarmac at first then loose rock which climbs past a vineyard and eventually drops into the quarry. A painted wooden sign points towards the climbing.

Topo no longer available from the restaurant. Try the Office de Tourisme in Chagny.
Rog Wilko - 09/Jun/15
Beautiful climbing, easy to get to and if you dont want to buy the topo from the cafe for 3 Euros, all the climbs are written at the bottom of each route with the grade which makes finding the climbs very straight forward. If you are in the area I would definatly spend a day or two here
climbingchica - 27/Aug/13
An excellent venue the slabby walls are good in the sun and the two steep walls are always in the shade. Reggae wall has some very good 7's. Secteur du U over to the right is a bit chossy but has some good steep routes.
is2 - 21/Apr/12
This is a very pleasant venue. There are a lot of easier routes on the sensible side of vertical, many of good quality. Shady in the morning (and some shade most of the day).
Rog Wilko - 18/Oct/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Secteur Soleil 
2Que Dalle
6a *6
3Pise Aller
5a *5
4Pise Retour
5b *2
 Secteur Crackers 
6Jardin des Elfes
6b **4
7Migration5c **11
8Cure de Mouvance
5c 11
9Je de Loi
5c *6
10Zizi du Lezard5c 10
11Temps d'un Reve
5c ***14
3+ ***10
13Royal Calin
5c 10
14Ou Maux ou Mots5c *1
15Flagrants Delices
6a 15
16Coeur de Pierre5c **4
17Vae Soli6b **4
18Souvenirs d'Enfance
5a ***16
19Souvenir d'Enfance (2nd pitch)
5c ***8
 Secteur Reggae Wall 
21Carpe Diem6b **3
22Igzull Wass
6b+ *6
23Temps du Tendu6c+ 1
24Ti Punch
6b+ ***8
25Reggae night7b+ ***4
26Vent en Leve7c ***2
27Rock'n Blues7a+ ***6
28All you need is love.7b+ **1
29Pas de bras, pas de chocolat8a ** 
30Chine et Pakistan7b+ **2
31Around the Rock6b+ *2
 Secteur Grand Mur 
33MM Forever
5b 6
34Trou You
5a 7
35Un-named5a *2
5a 5
37petit pilier
4c 7
38Voie des buis
5a 4
39Les Buis Bis5a *6
40La voie des 3 V
5b 5
41Relais4c 6
42A la niche6a 3
43La P'tite der
5c 2
44Ecrin Total
6a ***10
45College au Giob
5c *6
46Bien Cool
5a **6
 Secteur du U 
48Fais-Toi du Mouron
5b 5
49Dans la Gueule de l'Ocre6a **2
50Coup D'Oeil6b **3
51L'U Luberlu6a **1
4c 7
4c 10
54Hell Haut De l'U
4c 11
55Derive des Incontinents6a **5
56Dans la Peau d'une Banane6c+ 1
57Homo Erectus Tres Habilis6b+ ***4
58Charlotte Stone
7a **1
59Foire aux Vanit├ęs6c 2
60Orange2 ***2
4c 2
5c **7
63Planete en Rire
6a **10
64L'evasion des Petits Pois6b+ ***3
6c+ ***5

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rog Wilko