Climbs 62
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 297m a.s.l
Faces N

Remigny © Simon

Crag features

A pleasant pocketed limestone crag (once a quarry) offering one pitch climbs up to 22m. There is a high concentration of easier grade climbs and it is especially good for those operating in the range of F4+ to F6b+ largely on off vertical walls. The exception is the impressive over hanging Reggae Wall which offers half a dozen routes 7a+ to 8a all steep pocket pulling with the main attraction being Reggae Night 7b+/ 7c. The right wall of secteur du U ( furthest right sector when facing the crag) has a further half dozen steep routes around 6c /7a. The back wall of Secteur du U has three very good 4/5s. Between these​ two sectors is the Grand Mur with its predominantly gentler offerings.

The sectors are listed from left to right, with the prominent corner of Souvenirs d'Enfance marking the end of Secteur Crackers and the start of Secteur Reggae Wall.

Guidebook: the Jingo-Wobbly guide does not include many of the easier routes, notably those on the Grand Mur, but there is a free local topo available in tourist info in Chagny.

Approach notes

According to the guidebook the access agreement for this crag - fairly recently negotiated after years of exclusion - precludes climbing after the second weekend in September until March. Please observe this restriction to help maintain access.

To reach the crag most will arrive in the small village of Remigny from Chagny. Turn left onto the Rue des Ecoles (signposted for the restaurant l'Escale). Immediately after crossing the bridge turn left opposite the restaurant onto a road by the canal. First right climbs a deteriorating road, tarmac at first then loose rock which climbs past a vineyard and eventually drops into the quarry. A painted wooden sign points towards the climbing.

Topo no longer available from the restaurant. Try the Office de Tourisme in Chagny.
Rog Wilko - 09/Jun/15
Beautiful climbing, easy to get to and if you dont want to buy the topo from the cafe for 3 Euros, all the climbs are written at the bottom of each route with the grade which makes finding the climbs very straight forward. If you are in the area I would definatly spend a day or two here
climbingchica - 27/Aug/13
An excellent venue the slabby walls are good in the sun and the two steep walls are always in the shade. Reggae wall has some very good 7's. Secteur du U over to the right is a bit chossy but has some good steep routes.
is2 - 21/Apr/12
This is a very pleasant venue. There are a lot of easier routes on the sensible side of vertical, many of good quality. Shady in the morning (and some shade most of the day).
Rog Wilko - 18/Oct/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Secteur Soleil
2 Que Dalle
-
6a * 6
3 Pise Aller
-
5a * 5
4 Pise Retour
-
5b * 2
  Secteur Crackers
6 Jardin des Elfes
-
6b ** 4
7 Migration 5c ** 11
8 Cure de Mouvance
-
5c 11
9 Je de Loi
-
5c * 6
10 Zizi du Lezard 5c 10
11 Temps d'un Reve
-
5c *** 14
12 Crackers
-
3+ *** 10
13 Royal Calin
-
5c 10
14 Ou Maux ou Mots 5c * 1
15 Flagrants Delices
-
6a 15
16 Coeur de Pierre 5c ** 4
17 Vae Soli 6b ** 4
18 Souvenirs d'Enfance
-
5a *** 16
19 Souvenir d'Enfance (2nd pitch)
-
5c *** 8
  Secteur Reggae Wall
21 Carpe Diem 6b ** 3
22 Igzull Wass
-
6b+ * 6
23 Temps du Tendu 6c+ 1
24 Ti Punch
-
6b+ *** 8
25 Reggae night 7b+ *** 4
26 Vent en Leve 7c *** 2
27 Rock'n Blues 7a+ *** 6
28 All you need is love. 7b+ ** 1
29 Pas de bras, pas de chocolat 8a **  
30 Chine et Pakistan 7b+ ** 2
31 Around the Rock 6b+ * 2
  Secteur Grand Mur
33 MM Forever
-
5b 6
34 Trou You
-
5a 7
35 Un-named 5a * 2
36 Limace
-
5a 5
37 petit pilier
-
4c 7
38 Voie des buis
-
5a 5
39 Les Buis Bis 5a * 7
40 La voie des 3 V
-
5b 6
41 Relais 4c 6
42 A la niche 6a 3
43 La P'tite der
-
5c 2
44 Ecrin Total
-
6a *** 10
45 College au Giob
-
5c * 6
46 Bien Cool
-
5a ** 6
  Secteur du U
48 Fais-Toi du Mouron
-
5b 5
49 Dans la Gueule de l'Ocre 6a ** 2
50 Coup D'Oeil 6b ** 3
51 L'U Luberlu 6a ** 1
52 Deb'U
-
4c 7
53 Fond'U
-
4c 10
54 Hell Haut De l'U
-
4c 11
55 Derive des Incontinents 6a ** 5
56 Dans la Peau d'une Banane 6c+ 1
57 Homo Erectus Tres Habilis 6b+ *** 4
58 Charlotte Stone
-
7a ** 1
59 Foire aux Vanit├ęs 6c 2
60 Orange 2 *** 2
61 Escargot
-
4c 2
62 Ratafia
-
5c ** 7
63 Planete en Rire
-
6a ** 10
64 L'evasion des Petits Pois 6b+ *** 3
65 Ysaline
-
6c+ *** 5

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