Climbs 150
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 461m a.s.l

Cormot © Dave Reeve

Crag features

Situated in an attractive rural area Cormot offers long single pitch climbs with great views. The main climbing area is a large limestone escarpment up to 35m high in places with a number of "bays", so it's possible to climb in sun or shade depending on the time of day or the weather.

The crag used to be quiet but since the publication of the Jingo Wobbly Bourgogne guide in 2003 has become much busier and the quality of some of the routes has deteriorated in the popular areas such as Kim. However, it's well worth a visit for the middle grade climber. Le Grande Cheminee (4+) is worth doing, especially facing outwards, Le Chant du Cygne (6A) has a superb finish, the Kim routes are all good, L'ecole (5) is great - I could go on but best to find out for yourself!

Most of the routes used to top out and the last move over was usually the crux due to bulging/rounded tops. Many of the routes have been re-equipped such that you can now lower off, but you will need twin ropes or a 70m rope on most routes to do this. If you do top out, there is an easy way down by the first climbing area (secteur j'maupoil en tete).

There is also a beginners sector called Le Gateau which has an appreciable number of short climbs mostly in the 4 to 5 grade range.

There is a Club Alpin Francais hut in Vauchignon itself which you can stay in, there are also two campsites in Nolay.

Approach notes

From Nolay head towards Vauchignon and by Cormot Le Petit turn right into a small lane that climbs fairly steeply. At the top it's possible to turn right and park in a couple of areas down a short rough track. Le Gateau can be found by walking down the path from this parking area.

The main crag is accessed by walking back towards the lane and then carrying on down a good track. After several hundred metres there is a path on the left which goes down into the woods and then rises again to the base of the crag by a cave.

It is also possible to access the crag from the top. Drive through Vauchignon and turn right. At the top of the hill there is a track on the right with limited parking at the end. Take care not to park on the field or block the track. Walk through the lightly wooded area heading rightwards, eventually you will come to the top of the crag. There are a number of abseil points or you can carry on until you reach the easy way down.

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Climbs at this crag

28Vire sur les Bras
5a 2
29Le Diedre Oublie
5c **3
30L'Arbre5a *2
31La Cle
5c *3
32Le Grand-pere des Varappeurs
5a 1
33La Bielle
4c ***9
34Passage Cloute
5c **4
35Gilbert du Moi4a *9
6a *4
3+ 1
38Fleur de Pierre
5a 1
39Le Piston
3+ 2
40La Mysterieuse
5a 1
5a 5
42Chante du Cygne6a+ ***5
43L'Exterieure5a **12
6b+ **2
45Plein Soleil6a 3
46L'Opposition5a **4
47Kim6a **15
48Kim Mediane6a **4
49Kim Directe
6a **3
50La Grande Cheminee4a ***4
51Le Puzzle5c *4
52Pan's People Disco Shag6a+ *2
53Nougatine6b+ *2
54La Ravisseur de l'Aube
6a+ *2
6a **3
6b+ ***3
57L'Italienne6a ***2
58Diedre Laurent5c ***5
59La Bobi6a **3
60Derzou Ouzala6c 1
61Forestiere5c 1
6a 3
63Ecole5a *2
64Carmen Cru6a *3
65In Vino Veritas6a+ **3
66Grat'membert6b+ 1
67Faille Pourrie
3+ ***2
68Pied Jaloux6c *2
69Le Rouleau Compresseur6a 1
70Le Cylindre6a+ 1
6b+ 1
72Arc en Ciel
6c ***2
73Etat de Choc
6a+ ***1
74La Grenouille
6a+ **1
6c 1
76La Panique
6a+ 2
77Marchand de Vin
6b 2
78Les Drus6a+ 1
79Litre6b 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Reeve