Crag features

The Hilbre Islands are an archipelago consisting of three islands at the mouth of the estuary of the River Dee.

Gorgeous, wild, adventurous feeling little islands famous for bird watching and seal spotting, just a short walk from the mainland.

Masses of soft sandstone bouldering and short route possibilities, the challenge being finding decent anchor points and avoiding loose and fragile rock.

Rock is soft sandstone which means holds can break easily. All routes recorded here have only been climbed in a top rope solo style (aside from the short ‘Little Eye’ boulder problems). 

If belaying from below, be very mindful of falling rocks. It’s highly recommended to wear a helmet. 

Routes appear very unsuitable for lead climbing due to the fragile nature of the rock. 

Rock has high friction but can remain damp and dusty. 

Recommend not using chalk to maintain the natural untouched nature of the rocks (although chalk was used on 'Loved & Lost & Found').

Climbing areas:

Little Eye:

A tiny island with a man made lump of concrete which can be bouldered: The ‘Eye Spy’ block.

Middle Eye:

Lots of bouldering and climbing opportunities, particularly on the south west side. Area recorded, ‘Lifebuoy Wall’, was chosen as it offers decent anchor points using the lifebouy metal post (hidden amongst the ferns in the middle centre of island) and the rusted metal post next to it (more visible). It is southwest facing, so feels remote with great views, and offers several decent lines within close proximity. 

Hilbre Island:

Lots of bouldering and climbing opportunities. Areas recorded are ‘Overhanging Wall’, an impressive southwest facing overhanging wall with decent protection using hexes and cams in the cracks at the top. And ‘Shelter Wall’, a Northwest facing section with a cave beneath, with decent cam and hex protection in the crack above (backed up using the warning sign post and wooden railing further back).