Crag features

TLDR: Top roping or soloing only.

The gorge from the Fairy Glen upstream to Conwy Falls has only recently become a significant climbing venue [2002]. Although it was well known locally as an area of intriguing shapes and gorge-hopping possibilities, bouldering and climbing exploration by a keen bunch of locals started only after a reconnaissance for kayaking by Crispin Waddy in 1996. Rumour has it that some lines were first climbed in order to escape after capsizing!

In spate conditions, spectacularly seen perhaps just twice a year, The Upper and Lower Tubes are entirely submerged in a brown maelstrom of standing waves, speeding water, and debris. The features are like those of natural gritstone in size, though the resulting texture is more akin to glass. Surely the most beautiful-to-grasp holds exist here, requiring both palms and all one’s finger-surface to produce sufficient friction to allow progress. The climbing is probably unique in Britain. Often the routes are steep and powerful in a whole-body sense, strong fingers being of less use than strong backs and shoulders. The climbing is in its infancy, and the main protagonists feel that they have not yet really mastered it. The future may be here; certainly there is scope for some very hard routes indeed!

An added feature of the venue is that rarely is it in good condition. Many of the routes start off boulders or gravel beaches that are submerged during the area’s frequent wet interludes. Equally significantly, some seep badly except over prolonged dry spells. This gives the ascent of some routes a special, rare quality. It is worth noting, however, that even in the hottest weather the river has a cooling effect, which can make climbing pleasant when other areas are too hot and sticky.

Most of the routes in The Tubes are strange and a custom grading-system seems called for. Thus T1, T2, and T3 are given in ascending order of difficulty. Routes are usually either top-roped (saves the feet from a wetting in some cases) or soloed. None has been led placing gear, a good honest ethic to be continued. This is indicated by S (meaning soloed) and NS (not yet soloed). No equipment, no leads, no frigging.

Finally, some note should be made of an extra hazard. Several people have lost their lives in this stretch of water. The features you see above the water exist below also and in some cases form dangerous sumps and shelves; take care!