UKC

Climbs 34
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 1349m a.s.l
Faces SW

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The famous big roof of the "Via del naso", seen from the second belay. © Giulio Costa

Crag features

The Bec di Mea crag is composed by two different sectors: the lower big face (often called "parete sud") and the upper rocky summit.

The lower Parete Sud is an historic crag looking over the old picturesque Bonzo village and it is the early birthplace of the Nuovo Mattino movement, before it's more famous developments in Valle Dell'Orco. The triptych of routes “Via del naso”, “Via dei cunei”, “Gran diedro di sinistra” is a must-to-do, for all the multi-pitch climbers in the area. This is a predominantly trad crag, where only old fixed gear - such as pegs, drilled ring pegs, and wedges - has been replaced with bolts to preserve the original character of the routes. Despite this intention, some lines have become more bolted over time eventually losing a bit of engagement, and a few of the more recent routes are now fully sport. In contrast, much of the right-hand side of the crag still offers a collection of almost-forgotten traditional routes - perfect for those seeking a more adventurous experience. At least 40m half ropes required for the descents.

The upper sector, the  so called Cupola di Mea (dome of Mea), is widely known for its plaisir routes, with a stunning panoramic overlook on the valley. A few demanding mixed trad routes are present anyway. From the top of the lower main wall, a path in the forest allows to link the routes on the lower main sector to the the ones on the upper dome, for a longer (discontinous) climb. 

Approach notes

Two different approaches for the two main walls.

A) To reach the South avant-corp, from Bonzo, follow the old mule track marked by occasional faded red and white paint. At a fork continue on the left following the "Parete sud" sign. Then head up to the base on a short steep track (1h from parking).

B) To reach the dome of Mea continue by car up to Alboni, then traverse on a good track to reach the crag (signs, marks, 20 minutes from the car).

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