Climbs 14
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1150m a.s.l
Faces SW
Crag features
The wall, consisting of the area's excellent granitoid gneiss, is set at 1200 meters above sea level, faces southwest, and is suitable for climbing year-round. Often climbing on big knobs, sometimes sharp reglettes, there is no shortage of cracks: all the best features of the Piantonetto and Orco walls are present. Impressive are the walls of the routes on the left, it is rare to find granite so vertical but at the same time so generous with holds.
Depending on the seasons, the sun arrives in the morning around 11 a.m., leaves at sunset.
It climbs well in all seasons: ideal are autumn and spring, but also winter, where on nice sunny days the grip is maximum. Summer, with its long days, obviously presents the most varied possibilities. The sector that includes the two cracks “50 Shades” L1 and “Zuccone and Zucchino” looks northwest, so it is perfect for summer because it never gets sun except late in the evening.
The 1 hour and 15 minute drive from northern Turin is comparable to the drive to some beautiful crags in the Susa Valley; the elevation is that of the famous Rocca Sbarua, albeit in a different context; the exposure makes it inviting for climbing in both shade and sun, depending on the season.
The place, overlooking the Borgata di San Lorenzo, is enchanting and has a strong identity of its own, smelling of juniper and chestnuts, tinging the eyes with the silvery white of birch trees; the experience of the sunset, which falls behind the mountains of the Orco Valley in the evening, is almost therapeutic. Convenient, however, is the proximity to the Pontese Refuge, a place of the soul.
In fact, Terrazza San Lorenzo, while offering a large number of pitches, also lends itself to a half-day climb in anticipation of some good climbing in the head of the Vallone, the true granite heart of Gran Paradiso. Or you can enjoy wearing out your hands and shoes on as many routes and pitches as possible!
All routes, except the single-pitch sport ones on the right were opened from below, without prior preparation.
Approach notes
From Cuorgnè enter Orco Valley, pass Locana, and once in Rosone take the road on the right that enters the Piantonetto valley.
When you reach San Lorenzo, the largest village, at the village church turn right (garbage collection island), and proceed briefly in the direction of the village “Bouro.” At the end of the road it is possible to park the car in the dirt square in front of the small chapel of Madonna delle Nevi, next to a large wooden table. There are not many parking spaces and it is important not to bother the nice man who lives in the house across the street, works in the area year-round, also using agricultural vehicles. Respect first. 1h 15 minutes from Turin.
You can also park in the village, adding a few minutes of walking on the paved road and not bothering anyone.
Once you reach the parking lot, take the obvious path that starts exactly at the foot of the shepherd's house you just passed by car, then continue flat backwards, parallel to the road, in the direction of Rosone. After a few steps downhill, cross the Praghetta stream, and climb over a grassy ridge to a nice meadow on the steepest slope in the direction of the woods and the wall, cairns on the ridge. You then follow the path, until you reach another cairn, very large, from here for a few tens of meters you continue again straight up in the woods with free path (traces of steps), until you reach an evident rocky slab on your left where the path is again marked. From here it is possible to bend halfway to the right to reach the routes from No. 7 onward, otherwise continue up on the path to reach the base of the other routes. Single pitches N. 10 to 14 are reached by going past the attack of No. 7, bypassing a boulder (rope loop) and via a slender ledge. N. 10 and 11 are accessible either by a fixed rope to the left of No. 12 or by traversing the first half of L1 of N. 7 and then comfortably by ledge (see drawing).
Total 10 minutes from Bouro.
The wall is very evident already from the village of San Lorenzo, on the hydrographic left of the valley.
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Climbs at this crag
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