UKC

Climbs 15
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 630m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Filippo Ghilardini on "accadde domani" © Filippo Ghilardini

Crag features

At “Pancione” there are now 15 pitches. I think the result is interesting, the routes are all pleasant, the style technical and to be understood, often with difficult positioning and finger boulders. Three obviously protectable routes were left without bolts, climbable trad, in an attempt to give a signal for new crag openings as well. Why do walls have to be either trad or sport? Perhaps it makes more sense to focus on the single line, and if it is protectable, simply not bolt it.
The exposure is West - South/Southwest, even in late spring the sun comes no earlier than 12 noon, so it also lends itself to early morning climbing when it is too hot to climb in the sun.

The place is really beautiful, in the evening the view of the sunset over the Ambin group from the natural rock chair in the left sector is one of the most poignant in the valley.
I was in doubt until the last whether to post this crag or not, because the idea that the environment on which it insists was not being treated with proper care and respect clutched my chest a bit.
Please keep the crag clean, bury your needs and toilet paper (no tissues and no wipes, they take so long to degrade!). We are also making a toilet area equipped with a shovel at the far right of the crag. Thank you!

 

Approach notes

From SS 25 in Borgone Susa take Via Florio Benvenuto on the right (level crossing) and continue until you take the right fork in the direction of the hamlet Chiantusello (fountain, Via Chiantusello). When you reach Chiantusello, turn left in the direction of Chiantusello Alto (signpost “Palestra di Roccia”), park as for the cliffs of Rocca Penna and Il Libro just before the hamlet, in a dirt widening on the left. (Parking coordinates: 45.12543674041253, 7.243213895769619 )
Do not park further up at the trailhead, as this is the only space available for residents.

Continue by foot on the initially paved and then dirt road between houses to the aforementioned widening with wooden board. Take the path in the direction of Rocca Penna on the left. Ignore the first detours and then take the path slightly downhill to the left towards Borgone (cut possible just before, cairns, writing on stone). When you reach the viewpoint (Piassa Ciatlè) take a track upstream, (write on stone, cairns) leading in less than 10 minutes to the cliff.
Total 20 minutes from the car, 150mt D+, 15mt D-.

 

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Climbs at this crag

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