Climbs 6
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 1648m a.s.l
Faces W
P1 of "Via della Gran Placca" seen from the first belay. First class line on quality rock. © Giulio Costa
Crag features
Stunning tower formation overlooking the Val Grande from its south faceing side. This spot is known since the first exploration in the 60s. Motti and Artero climbed the "Via della Gran Placca" in 1965 on the West face, but only in the late 80s a second and a third attempt have been carried on. Oviglia and friends climbed the route "La chiave è dispersa nel vento" and soon after, Giancarlo Grassi attempted the South face. This latter route "Ultimo regalo" has been completed and dedicated to Grassi by its mate, Battezzati, morittu, Bonfanti, after Grassi's death in 1991. Due to the relatively difficult approch and the presence of more suitable crags for sport climbing nearby, the Torre Marina never benefits of the popularity that its sunny position suggests. In the last few years the crag has become more and more actractive for those who look for an authentic experience on a clean wall, with nothing in place.
In light of this, it is desirable to avoid equipping belay or other similar intervention in order to keep the experience on this remote crag as unique as possible.
Approach notes
West face approach:
From Pianardi (above Chialamberto, 10 minutes by car from there) take the track for "La Daia" in common with "Parete dell'Elefante". Passed the Parete dell'Elefante, continue following the main path for "La Daia". Arrived there, follow the ascending track (323A) to reach "Alpe la Cialma". Here the altitude difference is earned. Take the tracks towards "La Frassa" on the left, faceing W. In a few minutes you are able to see the grass field which is at the top of the tower. Descend in the field on your left, reaching the top of the structure (1h 30m / 1h 45m). Abseil from the top: face towards W (valley) look on your rigth for a big block forming a tunnel with ropes jammed. A single long abseil with (60m ropes mandatory!) leads to the base of the west face.
South face approach:
Either follow the approach for the west face, then traverse in the thick forest at the base of the walls (toward left, facing the valley), or directly from Pianardi, take the track 323A toward "La Frassa" (not toward "La Daia"!) and follow it until you reach a deep gully in the forest. This is the stream descending from the west face of the Torre Marina. Now leave the track and ascend trending toward right, directly to the South face, which eventually emerges high above you (1h 30m).
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Giulio Costa