Climbs 18
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 1228m a.s.l
Faces S
Il Guaro leading and looking forward just passed the initial boulder. © Giulio Costa
Crag features
An area composed of various towers and walls, divided into two main sectors. The main tower - the highest structure - stands to the right of the central gully (when facing uphill from Bussoni) and features a distinctive beak-shaped summit of orange rock, while the left sector is characterized by a shorter, shield-shaped wall. The area offers both multi-pitch and single-pitch routes, mostly clean and traditionally protected. The first routes were established in the 80s by Ermanno Boccolari, Enea Corradi, and Alberto Rampini, including Una fessura per te and Rosso Masai. To date, with only the original topos from the first ascensionists available, both routes offer a great opportunity for those seeking a fully clean and adventurous climbing experience. In 2005, Marco Blatto and Taj established Niente doni sotto l’albero, a mixed-style multi-pitch route featuring sparse bolts interspersed with clean sections. After a long pause in development, activity resumed in 2023 when Giulio Costa began exploring the left-hand sector together with the Tritoni Verticali crew, focusing on climbing traditional, mostly single-pitch, routes.
Approach notes
Two possibilities, the better one though is the first one described (A). The other one is shorter (especially to reach the right sector of the crag, but the vegetation and the terrain are challenging).
A) From Bussoni take the track for "Biollè", follow the path through the houses and at the first fork behind the village, continue on the left (toward "Bec di Mea"). Ascend the old fields, cross the dirty road and start ascending in the wood. Pass a group of houses (Case Giaclin) and continue up, untill a fork marked with a cairn on the right (approximately 35 minutes). Ascend now diagonally toward right following the steep track, pass a small dry stone wall with a big pine behind and continue up eventually intersecting a gully soon after. From here cross the gully and descent decisively (cairns) on the other side, eventually reaching the "Scudo del Giaclin" soon after (50 minutes from Bussoni).
B) From Bussoni follow the track for "La Frassa" (at the fork behind the village follow on the right, corring the stream). Ascend in the woods on a good track, then, passed an old ruins, continue for a few turns. Then look for a small track that cut through on the left to reach the gully. This path, initially on a level, then goes directly up (cairn) with short hairpin turns. Pass an old fields with big block now in the wood, then stay on the left to reach a scree behind a section with dense vegetation. Ascend the scree and at the end traverse left between a few blocks. Following a path on the left, passed a big block forming a cave below it, head to the base of the "Torrione" (60 minutes from Bussoni).
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Giulio Costa