UKC

Climbs 26
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Dunstanburgh crag © John Haxon

Crag features

Dunstanburgh is a north-west facing whin sill dolerite sea cliff in a stunning location, situated below one of Northumberland’s spectacular castles. Most of the climbing is concentrated at the easternmost section of the cliff, away from the sea bird colony and nests. The crag is mentioned in both the 1971 and 1979 NMC guidebooks, which suggest that one or two routes had been attempted, but little of note had materialised. At the time of us developing the crag, no recorded routes had been discovered, so this guide serves as a record of the routes established by the team as described.

As the base of the crag sits in the tidal zone, it’s advisable to climb on calmer days and always be aware of local tide times. Most of the rock is of good quality and surprisingly grippy; however, as the crag hasn’t seen much traffic, some holds may break. Although the main climbing section is set away from the nesting sea bird colony, it’s best to avoid climbing during the nesting season. There is a scramble descent (see images) from the top of the cliff that provides access to the ‘Harbour’ and ‘Rock Island’ areas.

Approach notes

To truly embrace the sense of adventure that Dunstanburgh offers, paddleboarding or kayaking from the car park at Embleton Beach is the best way to approach the cliff. Boats can be safely docked in the ‘Harbour’ area highlighted in the images, accessible at any stage of the tide. From ‘Rock Island,’ all routes can be accessed by traversing the base of the crag, though it is trickier at high tide. Alternatively, the crag can be approached on foot via Dunstanburgh Castle. The castle is operated by English Heritage and owned by the National Trust, so if you’re a member of either, you can visit the castle for free. The staff also allow access to anyone wishing to fish on the cliff, which is a very popular spot on a sunny day.

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