Climbs 184
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces all

The golden, golden tower © Laurence

Crag features

Safety Note: On the Coal Measures Crag there is a fixed line to lower off as the shale band cannot be crossed (easily). This is mentioned in the Rockfax guide. However, the line is clean broken on the far left hand side. Whatever you do don't clip into this or you'll be in for a quicker descent then anticipated. [Will Taylor 8/04]

Safety note:The horizontal ledge system just above the start of Metamorphosis is beginning is now showing signs of instability.Take care.

Access Advice

Climbers using the Left Wall Area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 24 June to 20 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

A tawny owl is currently nesting in Dirty Corner (left of Golden Tower). This and nearby routes (The Eight-legged Atomic Dustbin Will Eat Itself to The Italian Job) should be avoided unitl the nest is vacated. Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest in the past, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the chicks benefit and your own!
We don't know how old the chicks are so it's impossible to know when they might fledge, but given that tawny owl chicks can take 60 days to leave the nest it is worth being cautious around this area until mid August.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
I've added the routes from Robin's Lancashire Bouldering guidebook. Please let me know if I've made any mistakes.
Mark Collins - 21/Oct/14
Cleaned the ferns out of Klondyke: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=245795
Mark Collins - 16/Sep/14
The loose block on Many Happy Returns mentioned in the comment below was removed last year:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=227187
Mark Collins - 21/Aug/14
Probably best to avoid the Coal Measure Crag on a windy day, if you don't want to get hit by falling shale, very alpine.
Mark Collins - 17/Aug/14
Iíve finished cleaning the part of Metamorphosis Wall between Coconino and Transformation. The whole wall is now a bit dusty, so you might want to give it a brush before climbing, as ever at Anglezarke. Also, please be careful as these routes have not been climbed in years and may still contain loose rock, especially in the dry stone wall at the top. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=244249
Mark Collins - 16/Aug/14
Was up there today and noticed some drilling has taken place above WALT'S WALL on the rock between the stakes. Totally no need, can only assume bolt practice for somone or a centre going over the top.
innesmac - 03/Mar/12
Warning; the large vertical block halfway up 'Many Happy Returns' is dangerously loose.If you place wires behind it and then fall off you'll have a permanent headache.
Albion - 19/Jul/10
The routes are getting very sandy and dirty at the moment, groups need to stop top roping as it would seem to be the main cause. Would also be good to see more interest as its an amazing place to climb!
joe.91 - 30/Jun/10
DONT TOP ROPE!! most routes are dirty enough as it is, but top roping/abseiling makes it much worse.
liam - 23/Apr/09
Cross the road from the car park to so many good routes. Lots of 'cracks' providing anything from a finger-hold to full body jam! Anchors in abundance. Enjoy
noosarabbit - 15/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Grey Buttress
2 Just William VD 18
3 Soot Juggler HVS 5b 1
4 Thomas's Wall Climb HS 4a 8
5 Year From Now
-
E2 5c  
6 Whittacker's Almanac S 18
7 Yerg Traverse f6C * 1
8 Flyer
-
E3 6a *  
9 Traumatic Eversion
-
E1 5c * 3
10 Lurch SIT
-
f7A * 3
11 Sparrow
-
E4 6b 5
12 Easy Up
-
f3 2
13 Sheppy E3 6b * 6
14 Trev The Trav Chav
-
f6C * 2
15 Age of Reason
-
E6 6b * 4
16 Splits
-
E2 5b 1
17 Storm VS 4c ** 88
18 Layback Sitstart SIT
-
f4 2
19 Bite Me SIT
-
f7A  
20 Anglezyno
-
f7A  
21 Finurgle SIT
-
f6B 1
22 Arete Sitstart
-
f4 2
23 Grey Traverse V4 1
24 Sunbeam VS 4c * 42
25 Kaibab
-
HVS 5b 1
26 Prack
-
f6B  
27 Turkish Delight
-
VS 5b 2
28 Elder Groove
-
HS 4b 22
  Plagiariser Wall
30 Pedestal Route D 18
31 Rope Thief
-
HS 4b 1
32 William the Conqueror
-
HS 4b 1
33 I'm Spartacus
-
E5 6b  
34 I Claudius
-
E4 6a  
35 The Rapidity of Sleep
-
E1 6a  
  Coal Measure Crag
37 Flake Out VS 4c 11
38 The Lean Mean Fighting Machine E4 6a * 6
39 Vishnu HVS 5a 5
40 The Taciturn Boy
-
E4 6b  
41 Gritstone Rain HVS 5b * 3
42 Schwartzennegger Mon Amour E4 6a *  
43 The Karma Mechanic E6 6c * 7
44 Stained Steel E7 7a ** 1
45 Shibb E4 6b * 1
46 New Jerusalem E4 6a * 1
47 If You can't Lick 'em, Lick 'em
-
E5 6c  
48 Supai Corner
-
VS 4b * 2
49 Bright Angel Corner
-
VS 4c * 13
50 Anasazi Arete
-
E1 5b * 11
51 Son of Dicktrot
-
E2 5c 1
52 Zoroaster
-
VS 4b  
53 Kelly's 'i'
-
E2 5c  
54 The Changeing
-
E1 5a 2
55 Thirsty Work
-
E1 5b  
56 Whiter Shade of Shale
-
HVS 5a 1
57 Coal Measure Climb
-
HS 4a 1
  Low Wall
59 Midgebite Wall
-
VS 5a  
60 Fleabite
-
HVS 5a 3
  Beginner's Buttress Area
62 First Night
-
HS 4b 6
63 Yapi
-
HS 4b 6
64 I See No Ships
-
HVS 5a 2
65 Reservoir Camels
-
E1 5b 2
66 Beginner's Buttress D 21
67 Night Before
-
VD 9
68 Stag Party
-
HS 4a * 17
69 Wedding March
-
VS 4c * 9
  Golden Tower
71 Finger Chimney VS 5a * 8
72 The Finger VS 5a * 98
73 The Thumb
-
S 4a * 44
74 Glister Wall S 4a * 365
75 Give Thanks
-
E3 5c  
76 Samarkand VS 5a *** 352
77 The Midas Touch E6 6c ** 4
78 Fool's Gold E2 5b ** 53
79 Agrajag
-
E3 6a 1
80 The Golden Tower E2 5c *** 327
81 Gates of Perception E5 6a *** 27
82 Septic Think Tank E5 6b ** 5
83 The Italian Job E6 6b *** 5
84 Please Lock Me Away E5 6b ** 23
85 King of Kings E6 6b *** 11
86 The Nausea
-
E5 6b  
87 Klondyke E3 6a ** 23
88 Dirty Corner
-
VS 4c 5
89 Lucky Strike
-
E2 5b 1
90 Helical Happiness
-
HVS 5a  
91 Gilt Complex
-
HVS 5b  
92 Office Party
-
E5 6a *  
93 The Eight-Legged Atomic Dustbin Will Eat Itself
-
E1 5b  
94 A Series of Boring Mantleshelves
-
S 4a 1
  Falkland Walls
96 Botch Weld Job
-
E1 5b  
97 Rockin' Horse
-
E2 5c  
98 Grond II
-
HVS 5a 1
99 The Absent Minded Professor
-
E4 6a * 3
100 Tangerine Trip
-
E3 6a *** 47
101 Hunter Killer
-
HVS 5a 2
102 Falkland Groove
-
VS 4c * 28
103 Mu' Azib
-
E1 5b * 16
104 Michael Portillo
-
E2 5b * 5
105 Corned Beef Dictator
-
E1 5a  
106 Superb
-
HVS 5a * 38
107 Hermes
-
VS 4c 1
108 Any Which Way But Loose HVS 5a  
109 Any Which Way You Can
-
E2 5c ** 1
110 To Infinity and Beyond
-
E4 6b **  
111 Le Mans Finish
-
E1 5b *  
112 Airborne Attack
-
HVS 5a  
113 Gardening Leave
-
VS 4c  
  Triple Bob Buttress Area
115 Gold Digger VS 4c 9
116 Tinkerbell
-
VD 4
117 Triple Bob Major
-
D 3
118 Tocsin Wall VS 5a 4
119 Cad Eye the Heather
-
E1 5b  
120 Bellringer
-
E1 5c * 1
121 Ding Dong
-
HVS 5b 2
122 Tintinnabulation Direct HVS 5b 7
123 Tintinnabulation VS 4b 12
124 Blueberry Hill
-
HVS 5b * 3
125 Not in this Life
-
VS 4c  
126 Brick Thick HVS 5a 3
127 For Whom the Bell Tolls
-
VS 4c  
128 Plain Bob
-
S 4a ** 45
129 Plain Bob Variant VS 4b 14
130 Ticketybang
-
f7A+ * 1
131 Ticketyboo
-
f7A  
132 Unappealing
-
M 2
  Left Wall Area
  Terror Cotta
135 Fox's Corner
-
VD 14
136 Edipol! HS 4b * 249
137 Bossa Nova
-
VS 4b 23
138 Bay Horse E1 5b 19
139 Rock Lobster
-
E2 5c 3
140 Skin Game
-
E3 6a ** 15
141 Terra Firma
-
HVS 5b 3
142 The Friable Sausage
-
E3 6b  
143 Cotton Terror E1 5a * 74
144 Land
-
E4 6a  
145 Terror Cotta HVS 5a *** 486
146 Terrorific E4 6a 5
147 Mission Impossible E2 5b 3
148 High Revver E1 5b * 4
149 Double Trip E2 5c ** 67
150 Third Party E3 5c * 6
151 First Finale E1 5b *** 455
152 Zarke HVS 5a ** 108
153 Fingertip Control E4 5c *** 59
154 Birthday Crack VS 4c 110
155 Epidural
-
E5 6b 1
156 Many Happy Returns HVS 5a * 313
157 Ain't Nothing To It E3 6a 37
158 There's More to This
-
E4 6b * 8
  Metamorphosis Wall
160 Dancing on the Valentine
-
E2 5c 5
161 Metamorphosis VS 4c *** 617
162 Transformation VS 4c * 147
163 Punchline E1 5b 10
164 Punch Up VS 5a 17
165 Coconino
-
D 7
  The Middle Ground
167 Snorter
-
VS 5a 4
168 Wall and Crack
-
VS 5a 3
169 Telegraph Arete
-
HS 4b 15
170 Quickstep
-
S 4a 8
171 Bum and Grind
-
f6C  
172 Pandooi
-
E3 6a 1
173 Shorty
-
E2 5b 18
174 Go Right
-
f7A+  
175 Go Up SIT
-
f6B  
176 nowhere man
-
E1 5b 10
177 Go Left SIT
-
f6C+ *  
178 Side Track
-
VS 4c 1
179 Sleeper Bay
-
VD 8
  Whittaker's Area
  Walt's Wall
182 Mark VS 4c 95
183 Wedge HS 4b * 532
184 Elaine HVS 5c 41
185 Nightmare VS 4b * 403
186 Minor f5+ * 25
187 Mini D 31
188 Writer's Cramp S 4b 42
  Lower Walls
190 Because HS 4a 82
191 Meanwhile S 4a 319
192 Whittaker's Original HS 4a * 550
193 After the Blitz VS 4b 160
194 Alldred's Original VD 434
195 Boozehound Eliminate HVS 4c 3
196 Side Step HS 4b 114
197 Get This One in the Guide It's a Gem VS 4b 23
198 Original Wall Traverse S 34
199 Last Post
-
VD 12

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