Climbs 184
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces all

The golden, golden tower © Laurence

Crag features

Safety Note: On the Coal Measures Crag there is a fixed line to lower off as the shale band cannot be crossed (easily). This is mentioned in the Rockfax guide. However, the line is clean broken on the far left hand side. Whatever you do don't clip into this or you'll be in for a quicker descent then anticipated. [Will Taylor 8/04]

Safety note:The horizontal ledge system just above the start of Metamorphosis is beginning is now showing signs of instability.Take care.

Access Advice

Climbers using the Left Wall Area should avoid belaying on the fence posts at the side of the road. Abseiling over the Golden Tower and Left Wall is also discouraged as it is starting to cause erosion. The quarry is owned by United Utilities who take a positive view of rock climbing. Trees have been cleared from the quarry by UU in previous years making a great improvement to the climbing environment.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 24 June to 20 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

A tawny owl is currently nesting in Dirty Corner (left of Golden Tower). This and nearby routes (The Eight-legged Atomic Dustbin Will Eat Itself to The Italian Job) should be avoided unitl the nest is vacated. Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest in the past, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the chicks benefit and your own!
We don't know how old the chicks are so it's impossible to know when they might fledge, but given that tawny owl chicks can take 60 days to leave the nest it is worth being cautious around this area until mid August.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
I've added the routes from Robin's Lancashire Bouldering guidebook. Please let me know if I've made any mistakes.
Mark Collins - 21/Oct/14
Cleaned the ferns out of Klondyke: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=245795
Mark Collins - 16/Sep/14
The loose block on Many Happy Returns mentioned in the comment below was removed last year:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=227187
Mark Collins - 21/Aug/14
Probably best to avoid the Coal Measure Crag on a windy day, if you don't want to get hit by falling shale, very alpine.
Mark Collins - 17/Aug/14
Iíve finished cleaning the part of Metamorphosis Wall between Coconino and Transformation. The whole wall is now a bit dusty, so you might want to give it a brush before climbing, as ever at Anglezarke. Also, please be careful as these routes have not been climbed in years and may still contain loose rock, especially in the dry stone wall at the top. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=244249
Mark Collins - 16/Aug/14
Was up there today and noticed some drilling has taken place above WALT'S WALL on the rock between the stakes. Totally no need, can only assume bolt practice for somone or a centre going over the top.
innesmac - 03/Mar/12
Warning; the large vertical block halfway up 'Many Happy Returns' is dangerously loose.If you place wires behind it and then fall off you'll have a permanent headache.
Albion - 19/Jul/10
The routes are getting very sandy and dirty at the moment, groups need to stop top roping as it would seem to be the main cause. Would also be good to see more interest as its an amazing place to climb!
joe.91 - 30/Jun/10
DONT TOP ROPE!! most routes are dirty enough as it is, but top roping/abseiling makes it much worse.
liam - 23/Apr/09
Cross the road from the car park to so many good routes. Lots of 'cracks' providing anything from a finger-hold to full body jam! Anchors in abundance. Enjoy
noosarabbit - 15/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Grey Buttress
2 Just William VD 18
3 Soot Juggler HVS 5b 1
4 Thomas's Wall Climb HS 4a 8
5 Year From Now
-
E2 5c  
6 Whittacker's Almanac S 18
7 Yerg Traverse f6C * 1
8 Flyer E3 6a *  
9 Traumatic Eversion E1 5c * 3
10 Lurch SIT
-
f7A * 3
11 Sparrow E4 6b 5
12 Easy Up
-
f3 2
13 Sheppy E3 6a * 6
14 Trev The Trav Chav
-
f6C * 2
15 Age of Reason E6 6b * 4
16 Splits
-
E2 5b 1
17 Storm VS 4c ** 88
18 Layback Sitstart SIT
-
f4 2
19 Bite Me SIT
-
f7A  
20 Anglezyno
-
f7A  
21 Finurgle SIT
-
f6B 1
22 Arete Sitstart
-
f4 2
23 Grey Traverse V4 1
24 Sunbeam VS 4b * 42
25 Kaibab HVS 5b 1
26 Prack
-
f6B  
27 Turkish Delight VS 5b 2
28 Elder Groove HS 4b 22
  Plagiariser Wall
30 Pedestal Route D 18
31 Rope Thief
-
HS 4b 1
32 William the Conqueror
-
HS 4b 1
33 I'm Spartacus
-
E5 6b  
34 I Claudius
-
E4 6a  
35 The Rapidity of Sleep
-
E1 6a  
  Coal Measure Crag
37 Flake Out VS 4c 11
38 The Lean Mean Fighting Machine E4 6a ** 6
39 Vishnu HVS 5a 5
40 The Taciturn Boy
-
E4 6b  
41 Gritstone Rain HVS 5b * 3
42 Schwartzennegger Mon Amour E5 6c *  
43 The Karma Mechanic E6 6c ** 7
44 Stained Steel E7 7a ** 1
45 Shibb E4 6b ** 1
46 New Jerusalem E4 6a ** 1
47 If You can't Lick 'em, Lick 'em
-
E5 6c  
48 Supai Corner VS 4b * 2
49 Bright Angel Corner VS 4c * 13
50 Anasazi Arete E1 5b * 11
51 Son of Dicktrot
-
E2 5c 1
52 Zoroaster
-
VS 4b  
53 Kelly's 'i'
-
E2 5c  
54 The Changeing
-
E1 5a 2
55 Thirsty Work
-
E1 5b  
56 Whiter Shade of Shale
-
HVS 5a 1
57 Coal Measure Climb
-
HS 4a 1
  Low Wall
59 Midgebite Wall
-
VS 5a  
60 Fleabite
-
HVS 5a 3
  Beginner's Buttress Area
62 First Night
-
HS 4b 6
63 Yapi
-
HS 4b 6
64 I See No Ships
-
HVS 5a 2
65 Reservoir Camels
-
E1 5b 2
66 Beginner's Buttress D 21
67 Night Before
-
VD 9
68 Stag Party
-
HS 4a * 17
69 Wedding March
-
VS 4c * 9
  Golden Tower
71 Finger Chimney HVS 5a * 8
72 The Finger VS 4c * 98
73 The Thumb S 4a * 44
74 Glister Wall S 4a * 364
75 Give Thanks
-
E3 5c  
76 Samarkand VS 4c *** 352
77 The Midas Touch E6 6c ** 4
78 Fool's Gold HVS 5b * 52
79 Agrajag
-
E3 6a 1
80 The Golden Tower E2 5c *** 328
81 Gates of Perception E4 6a *** 27
82 Septic Think Tank E5 6b * 5
83 The Italian Job E5 6b *** 5
84 Please Lock Me Away E5 6b ** 21
85 King of Kings E6 6b *** 11
86 The Nausea
-
E5 6b  
87 Klondyke E3 6a * 22
88 Dirty Corner
-
VS 4c 5
89 Lucky Strike
-
E2 5b 1
90 Helical Happiness
-
HVS 5a  
91 Gilt Complex
-
HVS 5b  
92 Office Party
-
E5 6a *  
93 The Eight-Legged Atomic Dustbin Will Eat Itself
-
E1 5b  
94 A Series of Boring Mantleshelves
-
S 4a 1
  Falkland Walls
96 Botch Weld Job
-
E1 5b  
97 Rockin' Horse
-
E2 5c  
98 Grond II
-
HVS 5a 1
99 The Absent Minded Professor E4 6a * 3
100 Tangerine Trip E3 6a *** 39
101 Hunter Killer
-
HVS 5a 2
102 Falkland Groove VS 4c * 28
103 Mu' Azib E1 5b * 16
104 Michael Portillo E2 5b * 5
105 Corned Beef Dictator E1 5a  
106 Superb HVS 5a * 38
107 Hermes VS 4c 1
108 Any Which Way But Loose HVS 5a  
109 Any Which Way You Can
-
E2 5c ** 1
110 To Infinity and Beyond
-
E4 6b **  
111 Le Mans Finish
-
E1 5b *  
112 Airborne Attack
-
HVS 5a  
113 Gardening Leave
-
VS 4c  
  Triple Bob Buttress Area
115 Gold Digger VS 4c 9
116 Tinkerbell
-
VD 4
117 Triple Bob Major
-
D 3
118 Tocsin Wall VS 5a 4
119 Cad Eye the Heather
-
E1 5b  
120 Bellringer
-
E1 5c * 1
121 Ding Dong
-
HVS 5b 2
122 Tintinnabulation Direct HVS 5b 7
123 Tintinnabulation VS 4b 12
124 Blueberry Hill
-
HVS 5b * 3
125 Not in this Life
-
VS 4c  
126 Brick Thick HVS 5a 3
127 For Whom the Bell Tolls
-
VS 4c  
128 Plain Bob
-
S 4a ** 45
129 Plain Bob Variant VS 4b 14
130 Ticketybang
-
f7A+ * 1
131 Ticketyboo
-
f7A  
132 Unappealing
-
M 2
  Left Wall Area
134 Fox's Corner
-
VD 14
135 Edipol! HS 4b * 249
136 Bossa Nova
-
VS 4b 23
137 Bay Horse E1 5b 19
138 Rock Lobster
-
E2 5c 3
139 Skin Game
-
E3 6a ** 15
140 Terra Firma
-
HVS 5b 3
141 The Friable Sausage
-
E3 6b  
142 Cotton Terror E1 5a * 73
143 Land
-
E4 6a  
144 Terror Cotta HVS 5a *** 478
145 Terrorific E4 6a 5
146 Mission Impossible E2 5b 3
147 High Revver E1 5b * 4
148 Double Trip E2 5c ** 61
149 Third Party E3 5c * 6
150 First Finale E1 5b *** 452
151 Zarke HVS 5a ** 108
152 Fingertip Control E4 5c *** 57
153 Birthday Crack VS 4b 110
154 Epidural
-
E5 6b 1
155 Many Happy Returns E1 5a * 311
156 Ain't Nothing To It E3 6a ** 37
157 There's More to This
-
E4 6b * 8
  Metamorphosis Wall
159 Dancing on the Valentine
-
E2 5c 5
160 Metamorphosis VS 4c *** 616
161 Transformation VS 4c * 147
162 Punchline E1 5b 10
163 Punch Up VS 5a 17
164 Coconino
-
D 7
  The Middle Ground
166 Snorter
-
VS 5a 4
167 Wall and Crack
-
VS 5a 3
168 Telegraph Arete
-
HS 4b 14
169 Quickstep
-
S 4a 8
170 Bum and Grind
-
f6C  
171 Pandooi
-
E3 6a 1
172 Shorty
-
E2 5b 18
173 Go Right
-
f7A+  
174 Go Up SIT
-
f6B  
175 nowhere man
-
E1 5b 10
176 Go Left SIT
-
f6C+ *  
177 Side Track
-
VS 4c 1
178 Sleeper Bay
-
VD 8
  Walt's Wall
180 Mark VS 4c 94
181 Wedge HS 4b * 531
182 Elaine HVS 5c 38
183 Nightmare VS 4b * 401
184 Minor HVS 5c 25
185 Mini D 31
186 Writer's Cramp S 4b 42
  Lower Walls
188 Because HS 4a 83
189 Meanwhile S 4a 319
190 Whittaker's Original HS 4a ** 548
191 After the Blitz VS 4b 159
192 Alldred's Original VD 433
193 Boozehound Eliminate HVS 4c 3
194 Side Step HS 4b 114
195 Get This One in the Guide It's a Gem VS 4b 23
196 Original Wall Traverse S 34
197 Last Post
-
VD 12

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