Climbs 48
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Faces SW

Ali Martindale finishing off the powerful upper section of The Hooker (7a) at Foxhole © Mark Glaister

Crag features

A great little bolted crag, well worth a visit for climbers in the F6c-7a+ range. In addition, most lines are close enough to each other to allow plenty of link up variations at grades from about 7a-7c (some of the best link-ups are named below). The majority of the older bolts were replaced in May 2009, though there are still some to be done on the two hardest routes. Take care at the very top of the routes as there can be some loose rock, especially on the far right of the crag.

The main crag seeps quite badly in places after long periods of rain (especially Goose In Lucy). The cave tends to need several dry days to return to condition, but the routes at either end of the crag can usually be climbed even if it has rained the day before. Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove is climbable whether wet or dry.

Below the cave there are several smaller slabs and zawns with a collection of mainly lower grade trad routes.

Approach notes

Park in the National Trust car park at Southgate. Head west (right) out of the car park along a private road with houses on your right. Just before you reach number 8 follow a path through some bushes towards the headland, then scramble down the left hand side of the slope and head back round to the right and into the cove.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
Nest at foxhole literally a foot away from the belay rings on basil brush. They are crows, But the parents where upset that we where there. The other belays for the other routes around there are quite a distance away so aren't really affected. Also the belay rings are loose would of taken a spanner up but the crows where circling
dringocymru1988 - 10/May/16
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

19Licken Gypsy7a ** 
20Chicken Licken6c+ 68
21Foxy Chicken7a+ **26
22Fowl Play7b **15
23No Epoxy Au Oxley6b+ *21
24Gypsy Eyes6b+ *3
25Little Miss Lover7a *6
26Foxy Lady7a **80
27The Hooker7a **104
28Joy de Viva7a ***176
29Turkey Lurking7c *26
30Power Struggle7b+ *60
31Ducky Lucky7a+ **89
32Poultry In Motion7b+ **16
33Where The Fox That?7b+ **3
34The Day The Sky Fell In6b+ *208
 Deep Cut 
36Talbot's Peugeot
VS 5b 1
37Mind Of A Talbot
VS 5a 1
38Antipodean Hero
HVS 5a 2
39Malice Down Under
HVS 5a 2
40Maurice In Undies Land
E1 5c 2
41The Illywhacker
E4 6a 2
E5 6a 1
44Deep Cut Slab
 Wrinkle Slab 
D 5
47East Corner
M 4
 Grey Wall 
49West EdgeD 7
50West Side
D 6
VD 6
53East Corner
M 4
54Vulpix *4c * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer simonr