Climbs 54
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Faces SW

Ali Martindale finishing off the powerful upper section of The Hooker (7a) at Foxhole © Mark Glaister

Crag features

A great little bolted crag, well worth a visit for climbers in the F6c-7a+ range. In addition, most lines are close enough to each other to allow plenty of link up variations at grades from about 7a-7c (some of the best link-ups are named below). The majority of the older bolts were replaced in May 2009, though there are still some to be done on the two hardest routes. Take care at the very top of the routes as there can be some loose rock, especially on the far right of the crag.

The main crag seeps quite badly in places after long periods of rain (especially Goose In Lucy). The cave tends to need several dry days to return to condition, but the routes at either end of the crag can usually be climbed even if it has rained the day before. Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove is climbable whether wet or dry.

Below the cave there are several smaller slabs and zawns with a collection of mainly lower grade trad routes.

Approach notes

Park in the National Trust car park at Southgate. Head west (right) out of the car park along a private road with houses on your right. Just before you reach number 8 follow a path through some bushes towards the headland, then scramble down the left hand side of the slope and head back round to the right and into the cove.

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
Nest at foxhole literally a foot away from the belay rings on basil brush. They are crows, But the parents where upset that we where there. The other belays for the other routes around there are quite a distance away so aren't really affected. Also the belay rings are loose would of taken a spanner up but the crows where circling
dringocymru1988 - 10/May/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Far Left Wall
2 Cleftomaniac 4b * 3
3 Leopard Prints 4a * 10
4 The Power Of The Leopard Skin Leg Warmers 3+ * 146
5 A Leopard Cannot Change His Spots 2 64
6 More Than One Way To Skin A Leopard VD 1
  Main Crag
8 Cunning Little Fox 5a 173
9 Never Out-Fox the Fox 5a 185
10 Vulpix 4c * 11
11 Basil Brush 4c * 97
12 Unholy Alliance 6a+ * 332
13 Lucky Alliance 6c+ ** 2
14 Marmalade Skies 7a * 129
15 Connard Canard 7b * 21
16 Goose In Lucy 6c+ *** 199
17 Lucky Lizzy 6c+ ** 31
18 Surplomb De Ray 8b+ ** 8
19 Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove 7b *** 216
20 Project (closed) Project  
21 [un-named] 8a  
22 Palace of Swords Reversed 8a ** 49
23 Licken Gypsy 7a **  
24 Chicken Licken 6c+ 70
25 Foxy Chicken 7a+ ** 29
26 Fowl Play 7b ** 15
27 No Epoxy Au Oxley 6b+ * 23
28 Gypsy Eyes 6b+ * 4
29 Little Miss Lover 7a * 6
30 Foxy Lady 7a ** 86
31 The Hooker 7a ** 116
32 Joy de Viva 7a *** 208
33 Turkey Lurking 7c * 23
34 Power Struggle 7b+ * 62
35 Ducky Lucky 7a+ ** 94
36 Motion Sickness 7c+ **  
37 Poultry In Motion 7b+ ** 16
38 Where The Fox That? 7b+ ** 3
39 The Day The Sky Fell In 6b+ * 223
  Deep Cut
41 Talbot's Peugeot
-
VS 5b 1
42 Mind Of A Talbot
-
VS 5a 1
43 Antipodean Hero
-
HVS 5a 2
44 Malice Down Under
-
HVS 5a 2
45 Maurice In Undies Land
-
E1 5c 2
46 The Illywhacker
-
E4 6a 2
47 Roygoi
-
E5 6a 1
48 Coral Corner 5a * 1
49 Requin
-
HS  
50 Deep Cut Slab
-
HVD 3
  Wrinkle Slab
52 Direct
-
D 5
53 East Corner
-
M 4
  Grey Wall
55 West Edge D 7
56 West Side
-
D 6
57 Cleft
-
VD 6
58 Ramp
-
HVD 3
59 East Corner
-
M 4

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