UKC

Climbs 59
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Faces SW

Ali Martindale finishing off the powerful upper section of The Hooker (7a) at Foxhole © Mark Glaister

Crag features

A great little bolted crag, well worth a visit for climbers in the F6c-7a+ range. In addition, most lines are close enough to each other to allow plenty of link up variations at grades from about 7a-7c. Some of the best link-ups are named below, though there are plenty more that have been done.

The majority of the older bolts were replaced in May 2009, and since then any worn out bolts have been replaced as and when necessary, typically with glue-ins. Take care at the very top of the routes as there can be some loose rock, especially on the far right of the crag.

The main crag seeps quite badly in places after long periods of rain (especially Goose In Lucy). The cave tends to need several dry days to return to condition, but the routes at either end of the crag can usually be climbed even if it has rained the day before. Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove is climbable whether wet or dry.

Below the cave there are several smaller slabs and zawns with a collection of mainly lower grade trad routes.

Approach notes

Park in the National Trust car park at Southgate. Head west (i.e., rightwards when facing the sea) out of the car park along a private road with houses on your right. Just before you reach number 8 head left following a wide path through some bushes towards the headland, then scramble down the left hand side of the slope before heading back round to the right and into the cove. An alternative approach is possible from the right, but do not, under any circumstances attempt to approach the crag directly from the top - this is likely to be fatal.

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
Nest at foxhole literally a foot away from the belay rings on basil brush. They are crows, But the parents where upset that we where there. The other belays for the other routes around there are quite a distance away so aren't really affected. Also the belay rings are loose would of taken a spanner up but the crows where circling
dringocymru1988 - 10/May/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Far Left Wall
2 Cleftomaniac 4b * 18
3 Leopard Prints 4a * 31
4 The Power Of The Leopard Skin Leg Warmers 3c * 171
5 A Leopard Cannot Change His Spots 2a 88
6 More Than One Way To Skin A Leopard VD 2
  Main Crag
8 Cunning Little Fox 5a 197
9 Never Out-Fox the Fox 5a 210
10 Vulpes Vulpes 5a 14
11 Vulpix 4c * 26
12 Basil Brush 4c * 150
13 Unholy Alliance 6a+ * 408
14 Lucky Alliance 6c+ ** 4
15 Marmalade Skies 7a * 160
16 Connard Canard 7b * 20
17 Goose In Lucy 6c+ *** 239
18 Lucky Lizzy 6c+ ** 29
19 Surplomb De Ray 8b+ ** 6
20 Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove 7b *** 213
21 Project (closed) Project  
22 Salva Mea 8a 4
Climb name Grade
23 [un-named] 8a  
24 Palace of Swords Reversed 8a ** 44
25 Licken Gypsy 7a ** 1
26 Chicken Licken 6c+ 72
27 Foxy Chicken 7a+ ** 31
28 Fowl Play 7b ** 15
29 No Epoxy Au Oxley 6b+ * 24
30 Gypsy Eyes 6b+ * 5
31 Little Miss Lover 7a * 7
32 Loco-Motion 7b ** 1
33 Foxy Lady 7a ** 99
34 The Hooker 7a ** 122
35 Joy de Viva 7a *** 228
36 Turkey Lurking 7c * 24
37 Power Struggle 7b+ * 62
38 Ducky Lucky 7a+ ** 100
39 Motion Sickness 7c+ **  
40 Poultry In Motion 7b+ ** 16
41 Where The Fox That? 7b+ ** 5
42 The Day The Sky Fell In 6b+ * 252
43 Easter Rising 5a 10
44 Welcome to the World of Trad HS 4c 4
Climb name Grade
  Deep Cut
46 Talbot's Peugeot
-
VS 5b 1
47 Mind Of A Talbot
-
VS 5a 1
48 Antipodean Hero
-
HVS 5a 2
49 Malice Down Under
-
HVS 5a 2
50 Maurice In Undies Land
-
E1 5c 2
51 The Illywhacker
-
E4 6a 2
52 Roygoi
-
E5 6a 1
53 Coral Corner 5a * 1
54 Requin
-
HS  
55 Deep Cut Slab
-
HVD 3
  Wrinkle Slab
57 Direct
-
D 5
58 East Corner
-
M 4
  Grey Wall
60 West Edge D 7
61 West Side
-
D 6
62 Cleft
-
VD 6
63 Ramp
-
HVD 3
64 East Corner
-
M 4

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